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Rob .T .

E11 build diary , RS kit build

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I've wanted to upgrade the doopy hasbro blaster that I troop with for a good while now , but never got around to it . <br>

However, I've recently upgraded my armour to RS Propmasters stunt armour , and felt I couldn't let the screen accurate armour down by continuing to troop my Hasbro .<br>

I was undecided about what to build , so called in at RS Propmasters workshop one Saturday to take photos of their real sterling smg with intentions to scratch build one ...a daunting task, which Si and Rob from RS talked me out of . <br>

I left the workshop with a box of resin casts, and instructions not to come back until it was built !!!! Lol.... <br>

I don't think RS exactly " do" resin blaster kits , but they had just finished one of their signature runs , and had some parts left over .....my lucky day !<br>

However, this meant that the parts I have are straight out of the mould, with no clean up , so I had my work cut out . <br>

For some reason the forum upload file option is saying my photos are too big to upload . They are straight off my I pad , so I'll have to work out another way , as a thread without photos is a non event ...stay tuned folks.

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Ok, the iPad won't allow me to either link from photo bucket direct , or upload photos from the iPad itself .

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That folding stock shocked me. A lot of work - but you are on a good way.

 

Nice trooper figures. I think many people here would love to be THAT mobile in their armor... ;)

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I`ve edited this post because it consisted of lines of html that didnt work , as im having photo posting issues from my Ipad.

Edited by Rob .T .

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Imgure it is then..... See you back here once I've opened an account

 

 

opened an account .... this is the result , I think its Ipad problems.

 

 

 

 

<a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://imgur.com/gallery/69f6C'>http://imgur.com/gallery/69f6C</a>

Edited by Rob .T .

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You need to use the img tag for the forum.

 

[img=http://the.url.of.the.file.com/somefile123.jpg]
There will should be a generated version of that on photobucket that you can just copy and paste into the thread.

 

edit: trying to get the code with out the forum executing it is a pain!

Edited by themaninthesuitcase

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9AF5AE2F-0ED7-4C82-8882-8FE836607BFB_zps

 

 

 

 

Well that was simpler ... Im on my PC now , ive given up trying to get photos to load from the Ipad . The above picture is just a test ( its my 2/3 scale bowcaster ) From now on its back to business with my RS Propmasters New Hope E11 ...... and about time too .

Edited by Rob .T .

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This is the Blasters main body as it arrived, as you can see, its straight out of the mould . At both ends you can see excess Resin , and the ally tube that goes up the center of the blaster .

 

 

AC5A2FA7-DB5F-4CDA-98AD-600B3BAF5FD1_zps

 

Having the ally tube allows for a thin skin of Resin , for lightness, and the tube is unbreakable, so the blaster is incredibly strong . 

The Resin used is almost rubbery in constituency , it works well , but is flexible, once more allowing for great strength , as if you drop it , its not brittle , and won`t break easily . 

 

Here it is from the rear end, after i`d cut off the waste matterial , clearly showing the ally tube 

 

7B714ACA-F2B3-4447-8268-C47E8FE085CC_zps

 

After a general checkover , the first thing to do was to drill out the empty barrel holes ( the T tracks are moulded in place ) and open out the spring slider hole . This was accomplished fairly easily , a rotary cutter made short work of the slot ( i`m too tight to buy a real Dremmell ) and a normal drill bit drilled the holes. 

 

2F953ED7-E93A-41C5-AF23-6FABE2ACB707_zps

 

8880254A-9854-4578-91F3-3998B0008E13_zps

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Cool. First time I've seen one of these built. So that's how it came? Looks like 80% or so already put together in the one cast. Nice! (I only see the fully finished blaster on their website, was the kit much cheaper?)

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Sith Lord, as you said, the main body is a one piece casting , and very clean it is too , the other pieces in the kit are the sterling end cap, the power cylinder block and the hengstler , oh , and the scope and scope rail . 

To be honest you could just assemble it "as is " and get a great looking blaster .

My intention is to add a tiny level of detailing .

As far as I`m aware , but don`t quote me on this, RS supply a blaster with every complete suit , which is I think the kit I have got , cleaned up  and fastened together .Their signature series is, I`m guessing a far more detailed set up .

As to the price, well I`m not sure they actually sell their blaster as a kit , so it would be unfair of me to discuss pricing . Hope you understand. 

 

The kit comes with a cleanly cast Eagle Hengstler counter , but mine had a couple of air bubbles in the connector socket , nothing a dab of filler couldnt sort out , but I decided to remove it completely with a saw blade 

 

CECE277F-7C90-4CF8-A984-06AE9770E07E_zps

 

Then i simply screwed on a genuine Hengstler end socket , as they are still available . I got three for ten pounds . 

 

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Oh , and yes I did replace the philips headed screw with a slotted one !!

 

Next were the power cylinders . Again , a clean cast that needed minimal clean up . I decided that in the light of our new knowledge of these little devils, that I would paint the central fuses , and then lightly spray over the whole thing , hoping tiny bits of colour might peep through , adding to the realism . Simple acrylic model  kit paint was used.

 

63172857-A053-4488-B74A-6F125DA954BD_zps

 

I also  filled off the nuts in the end of the large tubes, and glued in some nuts and bolts I bought off ebay . 

Household Fuse wire was used for the wiring , glued into small holes in the end of the fuses, and glued to the baseplate .

 

D5492794-97D8-4AB8-81AA-4F27C977434C_zps

 

At the rear I used some plastic model kit sprue to cut small resistors, drilled them and fed fusewire through them , and glued them in . I stole the idea of using kit sprue off a fellow member here when I read their build diary ..amny thanks, great idea.  I used fusewire as it bent easily , and kept its shape . 

 

I then painted the fusewire red , I couldnt be bothered to actually locate and use red braided insulation wire . 

After a light coat of satin black , here it is from the rear 

 

2B3E5549-CCAF-41C5-9790-FF8F3153EA96_zps

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The folding stock piece is a nice cast in the same resin . I drilled the under holes out 

 

BEC91965-C624-4483-9B5C-67991DE7CCC6_zps

 

Then got a bit carried away . 

First I hollowed out the whole thing 

 

2D21FD7A-20B5-4A4E-A509-29D54EB9BA9F_zps

 

And as going to add the piece of tubing you can see in the above photo , to add some detail through the holes.

However I decided to remove the whole inside of the stock , and build a more accurate looking end piece.

A piece of scrap round plastic tube was sanded square for the end piece, and a longer center tube added . 

 

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And heres how it emded up after a blast of satin black 

 

92F53C57-20A0-4C01-9545-3DCE526C73DD_zps

 

The scope was again a pretty clean casting , all I did was remove the forard screw heads and replace them with real brass items.

 

F3C1548D-7924-41B7-9597-6A59E8640D59_zps

 

The rear end cap neede no work , and the barrel end just needed a few tiny air holes filling . I took the opertunity to replace the allen bolt heads with real ones . 

 

FD0B68AB-3DFA-4047-97F7-75E2064CB8E9_zps

 

The spring was made by winding a brass welding ( braising) wire around a piece of tubing , I used the alluminium insides of a scrap car suspension bush to turn the ally bit shown here . It is made to be a tight fit inside the ally inner tube of the blaster. One end has a locator for the spring , shown , and the other end is drilled to locate the tube I will use as the inner forward barrel . The ally adaptor was hammered into the center stock of the barrel , then the spring went in . 

 

F78C4C22-16C5-41E4-A53E-1401F5547555_zps

 

C6DEBF08-6DDA-46B5-B0F4-E2DD7B6AC1E6_zps

 

I dont think I have a picture of my inner barrel , I used a piece of steel tube , from the frame of an old lamp actually , to sit up inside the barrel . One end located in the ally center adapter , the other in a hole drilled in the inside side of the barrel endpiece . All held in place by a dab of E6000 .

 

Its beginning to get there , Even Gilbert agrees . 

 

1EC4B4FC-B30C-408A-80DB-53B0C4380C22_zps

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After fitting the spring , I found it was a tiny bit loose and basicall too short . I used another bit of scrap ally to turn up a locator for the rear end to help keep it all together . 

 

36904DEF-060F-440F-B266-DAF3F6441B98_zps

 

Because my spring was actually a piece of brass rod, it wasnt springy , and tended to rattle around in the barrel , so I added ywo rubber o rings to the rear locator to help damp out the rattling . I then superglued the end cap on for good . Before all this happened , I spray painted the inside of the barrel , and the spring , with more satin black aerosol .

 

D0E8C631-5358-4403-A1FE-AFD959EA807C_zps

 

Basically now most parts were built and painted . A quick dart to the finishing line was needed . 

 

In this photo , of the gun hung up to dry after painting , you will notice that I have masked up the handle . Why ?? Well think about it , real stirlings have handles made from black plastic . This blaster is made from black plastic ...Ive simply polished the handle with cutting compound , and it looks exactly like the real thing !!!! 

The rest of the blaster is spray painted satin black , as its supposed to be a star wars blaster after all . 

 

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76EF6D8E-6F70-4821-BDC0-428616AA24C6_zps

Edited by Rob .T .

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http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/counter-hour-meter-accessories/0165813/. This is what I bought to get the triple connector sockets for the Hengstler upgrade . It's uk only , but I'm sure they are available in the USA , the link gives its part number .

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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Nice work Rob. Lookign great.

 

Great looking spring, but that's what I found too, so ended up sourcing a real spring to give me some boing!

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http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/counter-hour-meter-accessories/0165813/. This is what I bought to get the triple connector sockets for the Hengstler upgrade . It's uk only , but I'm sure they are available in the USA , the link gives its part number .

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Just ordered what looks like the last one, thanks for the link.

 

You're build is looking great and going so fast. Makes me feel even slower than I did already!

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Cool. First time I've seen one of these built. So that's how it came? Looks like 80% or so already put together in the one cast. Nice! (I only see the fully finished blaster on their website, was the kit much cheaper?)

Hi all. I emailed the guys at RSProps about to weeks ago asking them for the prices and aviability of their blasters. Just to see if I could afford one and wasn't too much wait. They kindly answered me the next day with the information that the blaster aren't sold separately from their armors. Sorry I didn't keep that mail.

Rob. Your kit looks wonderful. Are you having it weathered? And I was curious about the kit itself... Did it came with any kind of display stand or plaque or certification or something that you can use to boast in front of jealous mates?

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I didn't think they did sell a kit , thanks for clarifying this for other people reading this thread ( is anyone else reading this .? ) Mine came as a pile of parts in a cardboard box , it's not part of a "run" or signature series , there is no stand or plaque .

 

I'm building it for trooping , not display so I'm not too bothered about a stand , it will display best in my holster at events ;0)

 

I think it was a case of " it seemed like a good idea at the time " when they let me have their kit of parts , I doubt they intend to start selling kits .

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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I finished the E11 off by attatching the scope to the rail , using a couple of shallow headed ( for clearence under the scope) screws . To attatch the Hengstler counter I made a "fistd" bracket , a small metal "l" bracket that screws under the scope rail , using the scope screws, and that folds down to allow the hengstler to be screwed onto it . I made it at an angle so that the top edge of the hengstler touches the scope , I dont like 90 degree fistd brackets , they look wrong . 

RS Propmasters fasten their Hengstlers on with a glue and pin method, this is very strong and looks (like everything they do ) screen accurate , but I wanted to be able to remove the Hengstler ,incase I ever decided to fit a real one .

I fastened the power cylinders on with a small piece of double sided tape, the stuff they use to attatch badges onto cars . Again this was so that I could remove them if I ever upgraded them . 

 

The overall paint scheme was a mixture of satin and matt black , to be screen accurate I suppose satin all over would be correct , but I wanted to add a tiny touch of interest to the blaster .

For weathering I used a tiny bit of silver dry-brushing and a tiny bit of gold/brass on the scope . As this is a movie Death Star Trooper replica, heavy weathering just looks wrong in my opinion . 

 

Anyway , here`s the end result . An all black gun isnt too photogenic I`m afraid, but you get the idea... 

 

D7653F53-E64F-4D67-A94A-9E9243FA955F_zps

 

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4454C1EF-EF92-4212-8D60-832472B15ABD_zps

 

9EFB0982-7AA3-4B93-9C45-78387B646681_zps

 

All the photos in this thread are taken with my IPad which doesnt have a flash , so I guess flash photography is the secret to good e11 pictures . 

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