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Lucky#Eleven - Phoenix Props Pipe Kit with Completion Set, Conversion Counter, Inner Barrel and more Add-Ons


T-Jay

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Now for the value based on time spent creating and modifying. Given even a very low per hour price of 15 Euros per hour. Total cost for this piece over,  3000 Euros :D

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On 09/07/2016 at 11:07 AM, Memory said:

Tino I´m in awe! It´s a bloody piece of art!

Thank you, Alex  :)  Whenever you need help to build an E-11 for one of your costumes, just let me know.

 

On 09/07/2016 at 1:18 PM, Lichtbringer said:

Looks really great, all your work paid off.  :jc_doublethumbup:

Thanks Michael. Glad you see it that way. I personally think it took much too long (due to the build documentation).  :rolleyes:  But who knows, maybe this helps others…

 

On 10/07/2016 at 12:44 PM, Sith Lord said:

Looking spectacular Tino! :th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:

Thanks Ian. Believe it or not, but your freakin’ awesome sniper rifle is still in my head and I can’t get rid of it... :D

 

On 14/07/2016 at 3:15 AM, SlyFox740 said:

Wow, incredible job Tino! This blaster looks incredible, Very realistic appearance. 

Thanks for your words, Henry. A realistic appearance was on top of my list for this build. If that looks believable, you are half-way there. Paint chips and the crinkle paint worked together very well. And I never expected the makeup-weathering to look that nice. :lol:

 

On 14/07/2016 at 11:18 AM, Dday said:

Now for the value based on time spent creating and modifying. Given even a very low per hour price of 15 Euros per hour. Total cost for this piece over,  3000 Euros :D

Not sure if 200 hours are enough in my case. However, most work was caused by the documentation. I think it is possible to complete the same blaster (without build thread) in 2-4 months.

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Update #27     - Cables without labels
 
We now come to the last chapter of this build, which covers the electronics. As shown in update #08, I had planned to run the wires like this:
 
28257422482_26e484a3c8_b.jpg
 
Meanwhile I decided to place the speaker inside the end cap, because this is easier with the wiring and will hopefully sound better inside the receiver tube. Also swapped positions of the LEDs (as the lower LED is easier to see in the front muzzle).
 
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Placed the circuit board in the middle, because all cables had to meet there. Starting with the LEDs on the front, I wanted to run the wires along the inner barrel. To get it out of the receiver tube, I had to remove the magazine and bullets.
 
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After these were out (and broken) it was still not possible to remove the inner barrel, because the curved ends of the T-tracks prevented it from sliding anywhere. That means I had just damaged my magazine for nothing  :6: Had to find a way to install the cables while the barrel is inside the receiver…
 
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Prior to the permanent installation, it was time for a quick test to ensure everything is working correctly. Used these nice thin wires because black is best to hide in the blaster, but ended up with a lot of “cables without labels”. However, it worked and that really made me happy :peace:
 
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As a last step, I completed this blaster by (again) adding the rail with scope and counter. Then suddenly it was all done. Here is one last short video that shows how the electronics work. The rotary switch clicks nice and although the light from the red and blue LEDs is hard to see, it is very bright as a matter of fact.
 


So, this is it. We’re done. :mellow: I would like to end this update with a little addition that has recently been given to me by Stefan (Turrican). A very fine gift which perfectly fits to this Lucky#Eleven. Thank you very much.
 
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Enjoy your weekend, Stormtroopers and Cadets :smiley-sw013:  Feel free to leave any comments and questions.

Edited by T-Jay
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A true masterpiece! It depresses me to know that the build has come to an end as it has been an exciting feed of cool new ideas and well presented as always. Can't stop thinking about how or which mods to attempt on a another blaster build if I ever get to one. Electronics chapter is a great way to finish it up and it came out amazing. Thanks Tino for all the time and effort put into the build and for making it another great example of what can be achieved.

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A true masterpiece! It depresses me to know that the build has come to an end as it has been an exciting feed of cool new ideas and well presented as always. Can't stop thinking about how or which mods to attempt on a another blaster build if I ever get to one. Electronics chapter is a great way to finish it up and it came out amazing. Thanks Tino for all the time and effort put into the build and for making it another great example of what can be achieved.

 

Thank you very much for your words, Brian.

 

Completing this build, brings back the same feelings as 2.5 years ago. Seems like every blaster becomes something special to the builder during the whole process. Having it finished, feels a bit like the end of a long vacation: After enjoying a good time, you are somewhat sad to leave. But there is also interest to get back to the things that were neglected for a while. I look at this with a laughing and a crying eye :wacko:

 

Each resin kit is individual and I think my blaster has by far not reached the limits of this particular kit. Especially the electronics were just implanted, instead of using an arduino board or something else with additional LEDs. And I could imagine, we will see movable bolts AND electronics in some blasters in the future…

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I finally got to working on some of my scopes. I learned hollowing out the back end to receive the eye piece lenses assembly is a lt easier with a christmas tree stepped bit. Than using a dozen spade bits. 

 

But where did you get the reticle lenses? And do they even work?

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(...)    But where did you get the reticle lenses? And do they even work?

 

Hi Sean, the reticle lenses have a very small engraving which is incredibly hard to read for the human eye. A magnification is mandatory to clearly see it. No chance without that.

 

The lenses from the monocular cause a sufficient magnification to objects that are in the correct distance (like the internal prisms). I simply installed the reticle lens in that place, so the engraving can be seen much better.

 

If they really work? Not exactly, because the image is upside down and left to right. And it would take two very special and small prisms to correct this - until someone else finds a different way to get it working (would love to see that).

 

But at least there is a "tunnel" in the scope with light shining through and everybody who ever had this blaster in hands so far, noticed that and also discovered the reticle lens just seconds later. :)

 

The lenses were bought online and I am currently wondering, if they would be some useful additions to the Completion Sets, as the monoculars are already a part of it. Just saying... ;)

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Yeah I was wondering since we are looking through our scopes upside down and backwards if you could even notice the reticle. I think its funny and the perfect explanation to why stormtroopers can't hit anything. :P

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Yeah I was wondering since we are looking through our scopes upside down and backwards if you could even notice the reticle. I think its funny and the perfect explanation to why stormtroopers can't hit anything. :P

They are actually installed in the weapon correctly. The small lens is the objective lens and the big one is the viewing lens. In the real world they were designed for tanks and antitank guns in WWII (large caliber applications) so for it to be on a small caliber weapon, like a sterling smg, which would gain no advantage from a scope (effective range of maybe 200m, if you're lucky!) you would be correct!

 

That being said, an "E-11" is from "A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away....." So who knows what it was used for there!!

 

 

Jim - TK50899

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I understand how the real scope works. But the lenses for the monocular we are putting into the scope works the other way. So in our resin replica scopes without the proper lenses and prisms we are looking through the objective lense and not the eye piece. And our square prism set up makes it upside-down.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I257 using Tapatalk

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It wasn't meant to insult, you are correct and I see what you meant now. Agreed, we are putting the wrong lenses in. The monocular has one convex and one converse lens the M38 has two convex lenses. Combined with multiple prisms there's a whole lot of flipping and flopping going on before the image reaches the eye. As mentioned earlier by the time you found the appropriate prisms you could just buy a real M38 for the cost.

 

 

Jim - TK50899

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