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Themaninthesuitcase DoopyDoo build

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Awesome progress, Chris!

 

Very sharp bends on scope rail and counter bracket, excellent correction on front sight guard and the first working end cap lock on a DoopyDoo's that I came across.

 

Already curious on the power cylinders...

Ooh a first! That's cool. It wasn't even too hard to do either.

 

I'm thinking of tackling the cylinder this evening, that and the ejector detail are pretty much all thats left other than a small amount of filling.

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Ooh a first! That's cool. It wasn't even too hard to do either.

 

I'm thinking of tackling the cylinder this evening, that and the ejector detail are pretty much all thats left other than a small amount of filling.

 

Sorry Chris, my fingers were faster than the brain. At least Brian (Bulldog44) had done this before, so I edited my earlier comment. :blush: Sorry again

 

But that does not reduce your work and effort in any way.

Edited by T-Jay

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Finished the detailing today.

I started by working on the ejector I carved out before.

I used a small piece of plastic sprue from the kids game of Guess Who. I cut a length and sanded one end flat and the other rounded so it would fit properly and cleanly in the hole.

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This was far too tall initially so I sanded down the rear, removing about 30-40% of the thickness to get it down to the right depth.

Next I used some 1mm ABS to make the flat section. This was positioned so it was roughly level with the rest of the slide.

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I know alot of people cut a slot in this part but I didn't as I have a few images of reference that show there isn't one. I gather this is a case of some did and some didn't have the slot. I elected to leave it as it makes things far easier.

IMG_0093_zpstv266opv.jpg

Ideally I'd fill behind the ABS but I don't think this is worth hassle in this case. For an ultimate accuracy build I'd go for it but here you would struggle to notice further than a few inches away.

I'm pretty happy with the results. My biggest gripe is the side of the cut are a bit wonky but again this won't be overly noticeable.

I also glued on the flash guards. Where the barrel isn't perfectly round there was a couple of small gaps which I filled after this photo. I only did this on the mid barrel one as there wasn't enough room to work cleanly at the muzzle one.

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If you look at the previous reference image you will see I designed the guards a tiny bit wrong. They are about 1-2mm too wide. Not a huge issue but I thought I'd point it out seeing as it's a part others have ordered to use in their own builds*. A quick note: The SLS plastic is quite absorbent so be a bit heavy handed with the super glue.

The last job was one I've been looking forward to and dreading at the same time. Final detailing on the power cylinders.

I ordered some 1/2W resistors on eBay that are around 9x3mm in size which is about right. The profile on the originals where slightly different in that those where perfect cylinders where these have raised end sections but where the closest I found when browsing around eBay!

I started by taking 2 sets of 2 and super glued them together. Next I built up the detail. I can't really detail too much of this as I sort of made it up as I went. This was based on the 4 resistor design in the playfulwoldcub reference PDF but isn't an exact replica.

The tips I have are:

  • The top wire is just super glued in with about 3mm stripped back. I drilled out the hole slightly larger to allow for this.
  • The longest wire is just hooked over some wire at the bottom and then super glued at each end.
  • To get the small length of covered wire I cut a length and removed all the wire with some pliers. This was then just slid over the resistors leg wire.
  • The wires are all just twisted together where needed. Ideally these would be soldered but plastic parts say no.

I also learnt I really want some super glue accelerator.

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I am pretty happy with the results. No it's not 100% accurate but it looks good enough and it's a billion times better than the cast Doopy Doo part that was supplied which was the original goal. Accuracy is a bonus here. You can't really see the thin wires anyway behind all the fabric covered stuff.

Next up: paint!

* For those not following along at home I provide the 3D files in STL and 123D Design originals for free. I also have the parts on Shapeways for easy ordering for those who, like me, don't yet own a 3D printer. I make no money on any of this, I made them for me and people seemed to like them so I made them available.

You can get the files from

Please remember these are Creative Commons - By attribution, Non-commercial, Share alike.  If you have other needs let me know and we can talk.

 

I also have the parts in a ready to order shop on Shapeways.  They use a SLS method which give nice accurate parts with far less cleanup required than on a home machine.  The parts are listed at cost, no markup has been added.  All parts are available in white, black or silver metallic though I can add other materials if people want them. 

 

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/suitcaseprops

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Ha ha :), the kids game of "Guess Who" that where I go my plastic bits from too..  Looking good Chris!

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After filing off the excess filler on the bottom of the counter I broke through again showing that the hole was FAR too low. Rather than fill the whole thing and re-drill I opted to glue on a piece of 1mm ABS and then sanded and filed to size. I also filed a small amount off the thickness to get it closer to how it should be.

 

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I also taped up the barrel and grip where they will need to be glued. This is so the epoxy sticks to the resin rather than the paint which could then pull off easily. I also added a small self tapping screw into the middle pin hole to allow me to string a wire for painting.

 

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Paint time!

 

I used some Tamiya XF-1 flat black to paint the power cylinders. This is a nice thin acrylic paint and went on really easily. Where the SLS print is a powdered material bonded together it's rather porous and so soaked up a lot of paint on the first coat. The 2nd coat was far better and I plan on doing a 3rd this evening. I tried to not over do the red wires at the back but got more on there than I wanted painting behind them. Once the paint was dry I ran some course sand paper over them to remove a bit of the paint revealing a bit more of the red.

 

25942617113_fa583db990_c.jpg

 

You can still see some of the texture but not masses and even then only in good directional light. The flat paint is good at hiding the detail.

 

If I do a 2nd set later I might experiment with the specialist 3D print fillers. These are thin 2 part resins that are self levelling so smooth off the part. My only worry is it might fill in some of the smaller details.

 

I also did the end clip catch and the tube for the stock with the tamiya paint. I also painted up the old white front sight I have to act as a test piece for weathering later.

 

Today once I got home from work I strung up some wires and hung the main parts for primer. I did this outside and I think this was a bit of a mistake as there was a bit of wind. This blew a lot of the paint away and probably meant I wasted a lot. Bourne out by the fact I burnt through the whole large rattle can and ideally would have done a bit more in a few spots.

 

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Once the allocated touch dry time was up I moved them into the shed on a new line and fresh paper for the loose parts. As the paint is now touch dry it shouldn't stick to anything.

 

26272666780_639617d28b_c.jpg

 

If the weather is any good again tomorrow I'll start on the black. As I picked up some satin paint my mistake I'll use this as a 1st coat for the matt parts so I don't run out of paint again. The grip is the only gloss part so if I run out of that I'm doing it wrong.

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Just popped out to check on the primer coats, as life means I won't be painting today.

 

The paint is good, but as I expected I've got a few spots of poor coverage. I may grab some more primer and address these.

 

Also the 3D printed parts have come out pretty badly. What I've noticed is where the epoxy was is perfect, what I'm thinking of doing is using the liquid green stuff to give it a quick once over, smooth and then re-prime.

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Just popped out to check on the primer coats, as life means I won't be painting today.

 

The paint is good, but as I expected I've got a few spots of poor coverage. I may grab some more primer and address these.

 

Also the 3D printed parts have come out pretty badly. What I've noticed is where the epoxy was is perfect, what I'm thinking of doing is using the liquid green stuff to give it a quick once over, smooth and then re-prime.

There some stuff that's popular to use in the RPF that apparently really helps smooth 3D printing texture. I'll see if I can get the name and post it later...

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I started on the base colour coats today. I'm using satin on most of it as a base coat, this will then be covered in matt for the final finish. This is purely as I bought the wrong finish initially and underestimated the quantity of paint needed. For the grip I've now done about 3 coats of gloss black to replicate the plastic handle better. I might go for a 4th but after that I risk loosing detail.

 

26598632215_2da0419f4b_c.jpg

 

On the 3D parts I sanded back the primer last night to a smooth finish. I then used a coat of the Tamiya acrylic to seal them. This has done a FAR better job than the primer on the raw parts. Seems the primer soaked in and left a bad result, so I recommend sealing them some how, maybe a few coats of a gloss to give a self levelling effect.

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Also it was pointed out to me on the UKG my end clip is wrong, too late to do much about it now but I thought I'd share the reference:

 

image-3_zpsezekbqyw.jpeg

 

If you look at this de-milled sterling owned by the person who pointed it out to me the clip doesn't actually hold the cap in place as you'd expect if you'd never seen one. The clip is actually set back slightly so that it only engages when the cap is pushed back for removal.

 

I'll not be making any changes right now as I've already started paint. I will probably address this when I know I've got a week or 2 where I won't need the blaster. It should just be a case of using some pliers to remove the clip, adjusting the shims down (probably to about 1-1.5mm), filling the filed hole etc. With that done it's just a case of re-gluing the part back and then fixing the paint. Matt black is generally a universal colour so the Tamiya should be a good enough match for this when I get round to it.

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There is light at the end of the tunnel!

 

Well the base paint is all done, well for given values of done but I'll come back to that.

 

With the paint done it was time to start "final" assembly! First task was to glue on the D-ring to the end cap.

 

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The screw was added to the base of the grip

 

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To attach the inner stock tube detail I cut about 20mm of some 5mm brass tube and then just pressed this in. No glue, but it's not coming out either. Theres a spot of glue at the end of the black tube to hold it in place.

 

26626623606_09c07dcdf1_c.jpg

 

I also added the screw details to the scope and the connector for the counter. I know it's supposed to be 2 spades and this one is 3, this my E-11, there are many like it but this one is mine.

 

26049438443_18f258b31c_c.jpg

 

Next up was to detail the grip. Theres some metal parts and also a lot of it should be matt. I used Tamiya X-11 Chrome Silver and XF-1 Flat black for this. An air brush would have been better to avoid the brush marks but I don't have one (yet).

 

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I started by using Tamiya masking tape to protect the grip (this stuff is the best tape I've ever used). I first did the metal as it's in a few odd places that's hard to get to. Once this was dry I did the matt black and painted over where the silver got but shouldn't be.

 

Here I learnt a couple of things:

  • I am not very good at hand painting
  • The matt black is a good match to the spray paint when it's applied well, but the brush marks show quite a bit
I also used some 5 min epoxy to glue on the grip which resulted in what's best described as a f*** up.

 

To hold the grip in place I have 3 pins made from 2.5mm ish coat hanger wire. The holes for these in the barrel go all the way through as I was a bit eager with the drill, these hole are also fractionally oversize to help alignment. When gluing I had the barrel down and the grip up so I could hold things while the glue went off with little effort. This was the downfall. Where the holes are slightly oversize the pins slid down slightly before the glue set and now protrude into the barrel.

 

This doesn't sound like a big deal until you try to add the internal parts and they hit the pin.... To fix this I've started to add a channel to the tube to slide past the pin, which still needs to be finished.

 

I also made the spring. This was a case of winding the wire from the T-Jay kit around a marker the same as the one I cut up. This had a small gap and wasn't tightly wound. Once this was done I pulled out the spring and tried to space things evenly. This is a fair bit too long atm but I'll cut it down before final fitting.

 

26626622216_8cd3232046_c.jpg

 

At the start I mentioned there was a paint related issue. Well I scratched a few bits, not a big deal on it's own as the Tamiya is a close enough match for touch up but this one shows a deeper issue:

 

26049440193_989571ce56_c.jpg

 

As it's been pointed out the end cap clip is too close, so close it rubs....

 

Now I will move the clip back to the correct position which is going to require a re-paint of this area. This will be a massive pain in the a very impolite person but it's my own fault for not fixing it earlier and not paying enough to the reference. I don't plan to do this right away, I'll just touch it up for now. Once I've calmed down a bit and gone pew pew pew a bit more I'll break apart my beautiful blaster and fix things.

 

I'll close with a picture of my visually complete from 10m blaster. Weathering will come after I fix my screw ups.

 

26626621816_fe2f137e91_c.jpg

 

All that's left is to finish the internal detail fixes, cut the end clip pin top length and trim the spring to length.

 

I've got a bunch of phase 2 stuff I want to do like the counter, scope, weathering etc but that will come later.

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It looks soooo nice already.

 

May I suggest to paint the hex screw in the grip also in black.

 

Can't wait to see your weathering...

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It looks soooo nice already.

 

May I suggest to paint the hex screw in the grip also in black.

 

Can't wait to see your weathering...

Thank you. It's been a long time coming! Weathering will come but I do want to fix the end clip first which will be about 3-4 nights work to allow for things to dry etc.

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themaninthesuitcase, on 26 Apr 2016 - 10:03 AM, said:
I also made the spring. This was a case of winding the wire from the T-Jay kit around a marker the same as the one I cut up. This had a small gap and wasn't tightly wound. Once this was done I pulled out the spring and tried to space things evenly. This is a fair bit too long atm but I'll cut it down before final fitting.

26626622216_8cd3232046_c.jpg
 
 
 
Chris I don't know if this may help but the way I made my spring was to check the required number of visible coils for the spring, (I seem to recall it being 11 but it would be good to double check this), wrap the spring steel from Tino's kit around a bolt, (or marker pen), tightly and then stretch that section of spring to the required length. This helped get a even spacing between the coils.
 
Amazing looking build by the way it is a real credit to you.
Edited by Thrawn's guard

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Hey Chris, Looks great! Nice job so far!! I've been laboring over my bolt/primer. Looking to do like Tino's install How are you handling this area?

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themaninthesuitcase, on 26 Apr 2016 - 10:03 AM, said:

I also made the spring. This was a case of winding the wire from the T-Jay kit around a marker the same as the one I cut up. This had a small gap and wasn't tightly wound. Once this was done I pulled out the spring and tried to space things evenly. This is a fair bit too long atm but I'll cut it down before final fitting.

 

26626622216_8cd3232046_c.jpg

 

 

 

Chris I don't know if this may help but the way I made my spring was to check the required number of visible coils for the spring, (I seem to recall it being 11 but it would be good to double check this), wrap the spring steel from Tino's kit around a bolt, (or marker pen), tightly and then stretch that section of spring to the required length. This helped get a even spacing between the coils.

 

Amazing looking build by the way it is a real credit to you.

that's how I did it, it's hard to explain I suppose. It was tight to the coils but loose to the pen of that makes sense?

 

Now I just need to get the spacing right.

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Hey Chris, Looks great! Nice job so far!! I've been laboring over my bolt/primer. Looking to do like Tino's install How are you handling this area?

Its the pipe from the kit with a 2nd piece slid over the top. That was a bit fat so I thinned down. Then I glued a pen in the centre. The extra detail bit is 1.5mm ABS cut to size and glued and pined to the handle.

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I've now finished the build up!

 

The bolt slide is in along with the spring, which also works well enough to hold the cap in place! The slide is made from some PVC pipe and a marker, detailed with ABS cut to size. The spring was cut so it was sticking out the end of the barrel by about 15mm. I closed the last coil down as you would see on a real spring to reduce wear on the end cap.

 

26654508226_b5c496ee27_o.jpg

 

The end clip is also in. The pin you can see is just some coat hanger wire about 11mm long (the channel is 10mm). This means it can be pushed out if needed in future.

 

What I've decided regarding this is to leave it the wrong position. Whilst I could saw/break it off and re-attach it the risk of damage to the rest of the blaster is higher than I'd like to risk. The error is reasonably small, 2-3mm to far down and about the same too high so unless you know Sterlings well you're never going to notice. Chalk this one up to lessons learnt for the next one.

 

The scope has had some detailing with some white crayon. The wax didn't fill 100% but this actually gives a bit of an aged look where the enamelling would have come out.

 

26654507376_3e59ebd58c_o.jpg

 

So here it is. An E-11 fresh from BlasTech Industries ready for issue to a freshly minted TK, number TBC.

 

26654511176_3cf0c923c7_o.jpg

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This looks awesome Chris, you don't fancy building another one? I have a droopy kit sitting in a box.

Not unless I get to keep it!

 

It's not as hard as it looks. This is my first project like this. Read the posts and build on the shoulders of others. Learn from our mistakes and copy our triumphs. You only have to look at the progress made in the last year or so in DoopyDoo builds to see how much better they have gotten though a handful of simple changes and a bag of screws and plastic!

 

You also don't need to spend a fortune on tools. A Dremel (other brands are fine, mine is a cheap B&Q own brand one), some small files, a drill and some sandpaper covers 90% of the work I've done. A pin vice and wire are useful but you don't need those, but they weren't expensive.

 

If you've got any questions about any specific part ask me, or another builder what they did and I'm sure they will tell you what they did and what they'd do next time.

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Not unless I get to keep it!It's not as hard as it looks. This is my first project like this. Read the posts and build on the shoulders of others. Learn from our mistakes and copy our triumphs. You only have to look at the progress made in the last year or so in DoopyDoo builds to see how much better they have gotten though a handful of simple changes and a bag of screws and plastic!You also don't need to spend a fortune on tools. A Dremel (other brands are fine, mine is a cheap B&Q own brand one), some small files, a drill and some sandpaper covers 90% of the work I've done. A pin vice and wire are useful but you don't need those, but they weren't expensive.If you've got any questions about any specific part ask me, or another builder what they did and I'm sure they will tell you what they did and what they'd do next time.

I will take that as a no then! Lol

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Lovely work!  Are you going to connect wires from the power cylinders to the counter?

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