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Themaninthesuitcase DoopyDoo build

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Not a full update but: I checked the flash guards properly this evening, amongst other things I'll write about later.  I am very happy with them, certainly better than the DD kit parts.  

 

These were printed in the metallic plastic which I wasn't overly happy with originally.  Having rubbed these over with some sandpaper they've actually come out pretty well.  If anything they take the sanding better than the flexible plastic used for the black and white.  I'll re-enable this material on shapeways now.

 

I'll do a proper update tomorrow.

 

I also found the reference I had for the cylinders, turns out it's by Playfulwolfcub!  Guess that's why mine match his pretty close. The quality of the image isn't great as it's been down scaled for web but I used photoshop to upscale it which is better than letting my printer do it.  At some point I'll try find the original source at full res.

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Hi Chris,

I just thought I would post a couple of pic's (my last I promise!) of the painted power cylinders.. Re painting, first I put coat of Mr.Surface 1000, then tried a few different paints.. Tried a coat of X-18 semi gloss back and freaked, was way to shinny.. So I covered it with XF-84 dark iron(flat).. I think it came out okay, the flat dark iron hides the bumpiness of the print quite well i think. Anyway Its all hand painted tho, so spray coats would probably come out even better..

 

Thanks heaps for working on these parts!

 

9Qu9assl.jpg

 

ZnDSEnzl.jpg

 

Cheers Bryn

Edited by sla73
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Amusingly I've just come home with X-18 semi gloss as it was cheaper than the humbrol! Guess if it's too shiny I can knock it back with either Matt varnish or some weathering.

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Also what did you use for the resistors? I was going to use diodes but the shop in town didn't have any. I have a ton of resistors but they aren't the right shape really.

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Hi Chris. I used some electrical resistors that I managed to order online (See post 363 of my build thread).<br><br>

If you are struggling to find some I can have a look to see if I have some left and post them on to you if you want. If I don't have any left I could have a look to see where I managed to order them from.<br><br>

Great work on the blaster so far by the way ;-)

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Hi Chris. I used some electrical resistors that I managed to order online (See post 363 of my build thread).<br><br>

If you are struggling to find some I can have a look to see if I have some left and post them on to you if you want. If I don't have any left I could have a look to see where I managed to order them from.<br><br>

Great work on the blaster so far by the way ;-)

I routed through my bits box but didn't find anything so I hit the Internet.

 

After some looking about I found some 1/2watt resistors that look about right and are about the correct size. £1.79 for 25.

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Also what did you use for the resistors? I was going to use diodes but the shop in town didn't have any. I have a ton of resistors but they aren't the right shape really.

Hi Chris,

For the resistors I just used some plastic from one of my daughters toys.. I cut four pieces drilled tiny holes in the ends and glued in some wire..

 

8KnZgjPl.jpg

 

Cheers Bryn

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Okay time for a build update, it's only been two months! The armour is 95% done now so the E-11 needs some love.

 

I started off by checking the flash guards I designed.

 

26042252830_326afa4975_c.jpg

 

They are a little bit over size as they should run flush to the cut out. That said they are FAR nicer than the kit parts so I'm calling it a win.

 

You can also see where I've started marking out for the ejector detail. I've not started that yet but I'll be making it with some 5mm OD brass tube and some ABS sheet.

 

Next I drilled out the stock cube and stock 5mm. This allows me to create a pivot point as per the originals. I'll just cut this down to length then super glue in place, it won't be functional.

 

26289174066_d76c5a2e77_c.jpg

 

The inside of the stock needs more carving out yet. I now have some burrs for my dremel which means I can do a better job than I was with the grinding stones and files.

 

The next job required some bravery. It was time to cut the Gazmosis magazine down to length.

 

26042251470_872aef17eb_c.jpg

 

This was a bit of a guess job. It was lined up against the receiver to get where it would but up. I then measured the depth of the slot and marked the cut line. I then used blue tape to mark the cut line.

 

The resin used for the casting is solid stuff, not 100% but I'd wager it's harder than the DD stuff. I used a 24TPI hack saw to cut it and it took a while. Next time I'd either use a new saw blade or maybe use 18TPI. But ultimately I managed to cut in a pretty straight line and a quick trip to the 180 cleaned things up nicely.

 

This, of course, didn't fit the receiver. The walls of the well were carved out slowly by hand using some files and a utility knife. I didn't want to use a power tool here as the casting is thin and it would be too easy to go too far.

 

Eventually it fits! The well is probably slightly V shaped but this gives a nice tight fit which will be good as there's only glue holding this in. Why you say? because you can't screw the receiver to the barrel and then the magazine into the receiver. Physics you see. I may drill for some of the 1.5mm brass wire from the under side which may help but we will see.

 

26315117835_4bd1e0b987_c.jpg

 

I've drilled a 4mm hole down the centre(ish, drill slipped....) of the receiver. This will take a screw to help secure the receiver as well as glue. The screw I have isn't quite long enough so I'll either need a longer screw or to drill a small well for the head to go down further.

 

Apparently at this point I forgot to take some photos. These would have shown I carefully marked out and drilled for 3 pins to hold the grip onto the barrel. I used coat hanger wire as it's nice and strong and pretty thick. The pins are out 1cm long. I could have gone longer into the grip but any further in the barrel will cause them to poke through and foul were the slide will be. I drilled for the pins 0.2-0.3 ish over size. This gives some wiggle room for the fact you're never going to drill these perfectly straight. The grip and pins will be glued with some 5 minute epoxy as this gives me some time to apply the glue, line stuff up and secure it whilst the glue sets. The epoxy will also fill the holes where they oversize.

 

I also glued on the rear sight. This was eyeballed for alignment was found to have a bit of a lean to it. This was accounted for when I glued it on which left a bit of a gap under it to fill later. This also has some 1.5mm brass to re-enforce the part. I've only done the rear as the front will have the scope rail screw there.

 

And finally it was time to start filling some of the defects and mistakes.

 

I started with the green stuff in the T-Jay kit, and HATED it. It's too sticky and goes firm too fast. All I did was make a mess and cover my tools in green stuff. So it all went into the bin. After that I started using the black "magic sculp" I got last year. This stuff was a ton better. It was easier to mix and wasn't so tacky. You can also use some water to smooth it and get better results easier. The batch I mixed was probably useful for about 45mins ish. You could probably get longer but I didn't push it.

 

25746068583_dea895afa8_c.jpg

 

I used the green/black stuff to fill the gaps under the rear sight, bayonet mount, fill a screw up with drilling for the grip, rebuild where the resin broke away drilling for the front muzzle screws and a few other moulding flaws. I also used some Games Workshop liquid Green stuff. This stuff was okay for filling some of the small carvings and mould alignment errors but it's not amazing. The black stuff is probably better and easier for 95% of jobs.

 

I've probably got a 2nd pass to do and there's some work to do on the stock as well but I'll sand back the first go and then see what needs to be done.

 

I've also made some decisions about how to progress with the build and will be implementing a phased build in order to get me trooping.

 

Phase 1:

  • Getting the barrel done and to a standard I am happy with.  This save having to go back and repaint stuff thats not removable.
  • Finish the power cylinders.  These get glued on so updates later will be a pain.
  • Basic slide design, not sure how I want to do this yet but I'll probably go for a simple design initially.  This IS removable though so if I want to re-do it later I can.
  • Hengstler will be left as is. This already has had some detailing work but not a ton. All I will do is drill for the genuine connector I've got.
  • Scope will be painted as is.  Lenses will be added at a later date, possibly into a new casting as this means I can just swap them over once done.  I started marking for drilling, these will be filled and sanded smooth again.
Phase 2:
  • Add detail to Hengstler front. Additional screws etc.  The casting is also far from perfect on the connector side so this will be neatened up.  Ideal here would be a better casting in the first place as it's only held one with 1 sure. I can also do the vain thing here and add my TK number which I don't have yet.
  • Add lenses and better detailing to the scope.  Again ideal would be a 2nd casting meaning it's just a few screws to swap and 0 down time.
Again this is all in the name of getting out there. It's not a case of half assing things, just I have my armour sat there and I can't get cleared in the UKG without some weaponry.
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Waiting for my flash guards to arrive... Last piece to the puzzle on my build. Love my front sight. Great Job Chris!

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In the spirit of catching up with people using my parts I've carried on with the blaster today.

Work began by sanding back all of the filling work I did last night. This basically means removing 90% of what you put on. There's 1 or two spots that need a 2nd touch up but I'll do those when I start filling the stock bits.

26262482482_4a95145521_c.jpg

I also cleaned up the large hole I filled at the back.

26081995620_a1f73beef3_c.jpg

This wasn't completely essential as it will be covered by the cap but in for a penny.

Again it was time for some bravery. It was time to cut the slot for the front sight.

I began by marking out the starting dimensions. It seems my Tamiya 6mm tape was more or less spot on for the width. I applied a length of it and using it to check positioning and then once happy drew round it and removed the tape.

26081999960_e2d46910be_c.jpg

Once the markings where done I started the slot with a green grinding disk on my dremel. I used this to create the initial depth of the groove but kept the shape square. I kept checking against the 3D printed part and once the depth was about right I swapped to hand files. I mainly used a triangular file to give the wedge shape needed again constantly checking against the part to ensure the fit was reasonable. After a while it would fit but was very snug. I kept going but was more careful to refine the shape. I left it with a fit that meant I could move it still but it wouldn't just fall out. I may go a bit further yet as I may need to paint before final fitting to ensure that coverage is good.

26354863225_949b160844_c.jpg

This image also shows where I had to fill some damage done when drilling. I later cleaned this up with a diamond bit in the Dremel to smooth and create room for the bolt. The black material is a bit softer than the resin but not a huge amount and it may need more time to fully set as they recommend 24 hours.

Finally I couldn't resist testing it with the guard.

25750008764_f8479fab2b_c.jpg

This was also printed at Shapeways but wasn't designed by me. I got it from thingiverse. It's come out really well. I still need to add the knurling to the back of it but I'll do this when I fix the issues in the stock. This will need to have this done and be glued prior to painting to ensure that the glue is on the plastics not the paint which will just break off.

In all a reasonably productive evening. I'll probably address the stock next.

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Cracking on with the blaster today.

 

I started by cracking out the dremel and burrs again to finish carving out the rear of the stock. I now have enough space to fit the tube in properly. The tube has also now been glued to the 3D printed part. I'll do a first paint job before this gets added to the stock.

 

26350202286_77f923c7a8_c.jpg

 

Next job was more magic sculp to fix the defects in the stock as well as the bit that gets damaged when you drill out the holes.

 

26283761402_70e9077383_c.jpg

 

26376093945_af9570a31a_c.jpg

 

The magic sculp made this nice and easy, not too tacky and you can wet the tools to smooth the stuff into place.

 

I also filled the back of the D ring cap where I went a bit too far before. I've left about 1mm of gap so the ring can move but not so much that it just rattles around.

 

26103270300_fffaa2fd02_c.jpg

 

I wet the D ring to smooth the epoxy and get a nice finish. I also trimmed the ends back slightly to keep the impression of thin bent metal.

 

The biggest job of the evening was to apply the knurled texture to the back of the front sight. This took two attempts.

 

26309884701_a7fde7d03e_c.jpg

 

I rolled out some epoxy as thin as I dared, brushed some water onto the part then pressed on the epoxy. I let this dry for a minute then used a scalpel to trim off the excess. Next I used a sculpting tool to apply the knurling. On the first attempt I tore the epoxy and had to start over. On the second it went much better. Whilst it's not 100% perfect, theres a skip on one side and something embedded in the other, I'm happy. I need to smooth the bottom off a bit to better match the reference but I'll do this with some sand paper one the resin is dry.

 

That was it for this evening. I probably will work on the ejector detail next.

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Worked on the end cap clip last night.

 

I started by drilling the aluminium U channel in the T-Jay kit for the pivot. I'm using some coat hanger for this as it's about the right size. Due to using my cheap and nasty drills, that I really should replace, the centre drifted slightly rendering the careful measuring somewhat pointless.

 

To account for the fact the pivot was now lower than I'd intended I used some 180 grit paper to lap off around 1mm from the U channel. This was hard work, the aluminium must be a pretty decent alloy.

 

26344450421_f5567561cd_c.jpg

 

The result is reasonably accurate looking but the pin goes too low now.

 

To account for this I glued in a shim made from ~1mm ABS.

 

25805780904_938e631fcd_c.jpg

 

This gives a pretty decent end result.

 

I originally planned to drill 2 1.5mm holes in the bottom of the U channel for some brass pins for re-enforcement. Seeing as the drilling was going poorly I abandoned this idea. The glue surface due to the curved barrel and flat channel was tiny so I decided to file a flat to increase the surface area.

 

26137780620_e59e2652f2_c.jpg

 

This is currently positioned so with a complete end clip in place I could remove the end cap without having to have an operational clip. I've yet to decide if I want this operational as eventually I will glue the end cap on so it being operational isn't really required. So the small gap isn't exactly accurate but at the same time any one looking that closely will have a bit more to say about the matter! It's a trivial fix to move the flat and fill the gap though. Yay epoxy.

 

Next job, barrel internals! Nearly done mod wise!

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Hi Chris, I am really sorry to hear, the green stuff did not work well for you.

 

The techniques you described for handling the "magic sculp", are the same as I use for the green stuff without any problems.

 

However, more important is you found a way to go on with your build. And WOW, you made a lot of progress since I checked last time.

 

Looks like we had the same idea for the hinge through the 3D-printed cube in the folding stock :lol:

 

I really like how nice and clear your knurled texture on the front sight guard looks and therefore hate to say, that this pattern does not cover the full surface of the guard but starts/ends different on the front and rear side (see here in Mod D)

 

Not sure if that info came too late now...

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Hey Chris,

 

With those parts on thingiverse, do you know the difference between the (Scale and PVC) files? Which one did you print for the front sight guard?

 

I like the sight guard I am considering getting one or two..

 

Cheers Bryn 

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I think it was scale. The pvc stuff is designed for 40mm pipe rather than 1.5". Read the docs on it though.

 

Doh! I see those comments now.. cheers..

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Monster update covering a couple of evenings:

 

Started by gluing on the receiver with super glue.

 

26366145322_3d045a8325_c.jpg

 

This clearly isn't the strongest thing in the world so there's also a 2" screw. Due to the thickness of the block I had to recess the screw head down into the part a bit to let it protrude enough to screw into the barrel. I carved this out with the dremel and burrs.

 

25855638083_34e69c791f_c.jpg

 

Next I started on the barrel internal details.

 

First I used the dremel to sand away the sides of the cocking lever so it would fit in the slot.

 

25853583924_1220d3e871_c.jpg

 

Using the plastic tube in the T-Jay kit I cut a length to make the body of the slide. This turned out to be a bit thin and so rattled. I tried adding some ABS shims to the back but wasn't happy with the. In the end I followed roughly what T-Jay did in his build and cut a 2nd length with a cut down the length and put this over the 1st piece. This was ever so slightly too large and was a bit snug fit wise. To remedy this I sanded the back half down until I was able to slide the part in freely without any rattle.

 

26432540246_9655419b81_c.jpg

 

To give the impression of the spring cup I cut a maker in half and used the back half. Not the most accurate thing in the world but this will work fine.

 

26185608190_601f9f8bfc_c.jpg

 

Due to the thickness of the barrel I decided to add a thickening piece to bring it up a bit.

 

26458457735_0fc97494ef_c.jpg

 

This is just 2 bits of 1mm ABS cut to size. The cocking lever is pinned and glue to this and the pin protrudes through to go into the slide all for strength.

 

When I went to add the diagonal bit I noticed the angle on the bit I'd already done was a fair bit off. So I re-did the while thing.

 

26432536236_15ab8f2075_c.jpg

 

This gave a much better look and is generally a much better job this time!

 

The detail part is removable at the moment for easier painting. Once painting is done I'll glue this in.

 

26392291961_17494a1c70_c.jpg

 

At this point I ran out of super glue so most gluing tasks where out.

 

What I did have was some 5 min epoxy which I used to glue in the magazine. Before doing this I re-test fitted the mag and decided the fit was too snug still. This time I took a file to the magazine and removed a small amount where it will go into the receiver. Sadly when test fitting I was a touch rough and damaged a small bit of the casting. This can't be helped and is a tiny thin part so I'm not surprised it broke, just annoying.

 

26366138032_17997e5159_c.jpg

 

The glue did a great job and after an over night lay up theres no way that magazine is going anywhere!

 

Last job for that particular evening was to fill the bit at the bottom of the sight guard where I'd applied knurling and should be flat.

 

26185602110_1f38595087_c.jpg

 

This is Games Workshop liquid green stuff. It's pretty good for these sorts of jobs. It shrinks a bit as it dries so this looks like over kill but after over night drying it almost looked like I'd need a 2nd coat.

 

Next day once the green stuff was dried I sanded off the excess. It looks like I've got holes but this just due to the different colours used.

 

25853575874_7ed285c452_c.jpg

 

Next I sanded off the excess where I'd filled the filed slot for the end cap clip. I'd filled this with magic sculp when I did the guard.

 

26432532546_11188d8aed_c.jpg

 

I've decided to have a functional clip so will move it forward. I will need to add 2-3mm more spacing to get the clip hight right, part of this is due to me filing the flat part is probably just the channel.

 

Next up the scope rail.

 

I started by using permanent marker to coat 1 side. I then measured and scored into this for nice accurate markings. Before paint this will be cleaned up with alcohol.

 

25853574144_43697a1e53_c.jpg

 

Nice accurate lines still doesn't mean I can cut straight! Also use a new blade. I was using a really old one initially and was finding the going tough, but once I swapped out to a new (24TPI) blade things where far easier.

 

In order to add the bend I used the saw to cut a channel about half way though the metal. This gives a weakness for the bend to follow and means you're bending less metal. For the front bend I used the width of the blade which means the bend maxed out at about 75°. For the counter bracket I used a file which was about 2.5mm rather than 1mm and allowed me to get to easily 90°.

 

25853574784_94e234dd29_c.jpg

 

I know the front bend should really be 90° too but this means I don't have to worry about the rail falling out and looks pretty nice anyway.

 

26366132992_a82c0f4f5d_c.jpg

 

The back was drilled, and counter sunk for the screw in the T-Jay kit. I also pilot drilled the sight for this.

 

26392287331_3595388d38_c.jpg

 

The obvious next step was to mount the scope. The rear mount aligns over the stock pivot as per reference. This was just a case of drilling holes for clearance in the aluminium strip and then slightly undersize in the scope so the screw can bite. I also drilled the counter bracket the same.

 

26366132002_aaa37fe180_c.jpg

 

Word of warning don't buy cheap drill bits:

 

26185595740_189b45d6c8_c.jpg

 

The last job was to drill the counter out for the connector. To help do this I taped the hengsler part to use as a guide.

 

25853571474_6ae264d034_c.jpg

 

Annoyingly the tape wasn't really up to it so the holes are slightly off straight. I'm not overly fussed at this point as I want to do a 2nd more accurate part when I have more time.

 

26366130362_9d24181443_c.jpg

 

I have 3 connectors, all with different pin outs. The 2 end as per the films, centre and 1 side and all 3. For this build I'll use the all 3 and hold the accurate one back for the better counter. I might clip the middle pin off but I quite like the uniqueness.

 

You can also see I started to clean up the poor moulding on the bottom half. Sort of regret doing this now as the guide moved so it's going to require more clean up and filling.

 

This evening I plan on finishing the counter cleanup work and do the ejector detail. I also picked up some super glue so I'll finish up the power cylinders also with the resistors I got. These aren't perfect but are far better than the usual basic resistors I had.

 

25855634503_2594dbd3e9_c.jpg

Edited by themaninthesuitcase
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It is good to see someone use the 3d files I created. See post: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31703-e-11-blaster-3d-printed-parts/

 

There are parts labeled "scale" that are for use  with 1.5" (38mm) OD pipe. The ones labeled "PVC" are for 1.25" ID PVC pipe. It is hard to find 1.5" (38mm) OD PVC pipe in the USA.

 

Looks like the "scale" parts work on the Doopy's kit.

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Hi Chris you've made lots of progress on your last post and things are really coming together great.<br><br>

Just a couple of quick comments/suggestions/observations which you may or may not want to take onboard. With regard to the detailing to the front of the counter I understand that there should be 2 rather than 3 electrical connector pins i.e. No pin in the centre.<br><br>

Also where you have drilled out the hole at the bottom of the front face and it has broken through the edge you could fill the hole with some filler and form the circular hole before the filler sets using the blank end of a suitably sized drill bit. If you wet the drill bit before it will also stop the filler sticking to it. I did a similar thing when I needed to shorten the length of my slot for my ejector and needed a circular profile to the end of the slot and it was very quick and easy to do (Have a look at post 226 on my build thread if my ramblings above are not clear).<br><br>

Hope that this helps.

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It is good to see someone use the 3d files I created. See post: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31703-e-11-blaster-3d-printed-parts/

 

There are parts labeled "scale" that are for use  with 1.5" (38mm) OD pipe. The ones labeled "PVC" are for 1.25" ID PVC pipe. It is hard to find 1.5" (38mm) OD PVC pipe in the USA.

 

Looks like the "scale" parts work on the Doopy's kit.

I didn't know the person who did them was on here! Thanks, it's a really good part that one. I found you can get 1.5" Aluminium reasonably easily on eBay. Seems that it's a common size for air pipes in auto tuning. At some point I'll carry on my pipe build with some. I want to build a blaster with electronics and a pipe build is more applicable to this.

 

Hi Chris you've made lots of progress on your last post and things are really coming together great.

 

Just a couple of quick comments/suggestions/observations which you may or may not want to take onboard. With regard to the detailing to the front of the counter I understand that there should be 2 rather than 3 electrical connector pins i.e. No pin in the centre.

 

Also where you have drilled out the hole at the bottom of the front face and it has broken through the edge you could fill the hole with some filler and form the circular hole before the filler sets using the blank end of a suitably sized drill bit. If you wet the drill bit before it will also stop the filler sticking to it. I did a similar thing when I needed to shorten the length of my slot for my ejector and needed a circular profile to the end of the slot and it was very quick and easy to do (Have a look at post 226 on my build thread if my ramblings above are not clear).

 

Hope that this helps.

I'm not done yet!

 

It was about 11:30PM so I called it a night. I'll be grinding and filling this evening pretty much exactly all of the issues you mentioned. I might leave the centre pin though, I kind of like it! I have the correct one too but I'll save that. I want to build a better counter but when I have the time to put more effort into it. It's only 3 screws to swap them out and means I can troop in the mean time. Same goes with the scope which I want to add lenses etc to.

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Chris, I have a real Sterling L2A3, Hengstler counter and M38 scope that I used to create the parts. I need to spend some time to finish up the parts and build a blaster with them.

I have printed all the files to make sure they work and fit.

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Chris, I have a real Sterling L2A3, Hengstler counter and M38 scope that I used to create the parts. I need to spend some time to finish up the parts and build a blaster with them.

I have printed all the files to make sure they work and fit.

I'm looking at getting a printer this year so I may have to acquire those files when that happens.

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I'm going to start with a couple of bit's I forgot to photograph last time.

 

Pretty counter bracket:

 

26383835962_659aaeac4d_c.jpg

 

Some nice filling work round the reciever. This was for strength, looking at reference these don't appear welded on. For ultimate accuracy this should be a sharp corner.

 

26410011371_e861f99ce3_c.jpg

 

The main work last night was on 2 things: the counter and the end cap clip.

 

On the counter I used a small dremel bit to clean up and carve the detailing on the back. It's not 100% perfect but a fair bit better than it was. I've yet to fill the bits that broke away, a job for this evening.

 

26410012761_fc3e36499a_c.jpg

 

For the end cap clip I've decided to make it functional. With this in mind accuracy is less important than it working. To achieve this I added 2 1.5mm ABS shims to the bottom of the 1mm shim I'd already added. This gave the correct positioning for the clip to both lock and open enough to free the cap.

 

26383833252_335542439a_c.jpg

 

I also found I needed to move the clip back a fraction to allow the cap to rotate. With the cap fully pushed down you need a tiny gap for clearance or the cap will foul in the grooves. Ask me how I know...

 

I also found I'd misaligned the flat I'd filed so I had to break off the part and remake the shims as the broke off. I used the cap to mark the centre line and adjusted the flat to suit. It's not perfectly flat but I didn't want to remove too much material. I'll fill the gap with magic sculp this evening.

 

You can see the whole thing working here:

 

 

I also drilled and dremeled the hole for the ejector detail. This was drilled out with a 5mm drill and then expanded with the dremel.

 

25873306633_a99da19f8a_c.jpg

 

The drill punched through which I'd have preferred if it hadn't but I managed to keep the main channel from cutting through. I need to find something suitable for the pin part but I'll use some ABS for the flat part.

 

 

The last job for the evening was to glue the sight guard and pin into place.

 

25873306193_5a3255d0fd_c.jpg

 

Was a bit tricky to line up but is one of those jobs that's showing me how close to done I am.

Edited by themaninthesuitcase
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Awesome progress, Chris!

 

Very sharp bends on scope rail and counter bracket, excellent correction on front sight guard and the first working end cap lock on a DoopyDoo's that I came across.

 

Already curious on the power cylinders...

 

(Edit: incorrect)

Edited by T-Jay

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