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Themaninthesuitcase DoopyDoo build

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For pinning, I am using a pin kit that I picked up at the hobby store. It has two sizes of brass rods.

A nice cheap alternative for small pins would be paper clips, and a wire hangar for a larger pin. Both can be bent straight, and cut with a wire cutter.

 

I am adding the screws and bolts before painting, but I suppose it could be done either way. I'm interested to see others' thoughts as well.

 

Vern has an explanation of your third question. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11348-sterling-parts-what-does-what/?p=141311

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Great progress Chris. I used a metal coat hanger for my pins. A fraction over 2mm thick from memory. I picked that as it was free and it had straight sections, rather than buying a 50 metre wire in a coil that I only needed 10cm of.

 

I have added all the fixed parts to my blaster, then I intend to paint in one go. Haven't actually painted yet so can't advise if that was a wise decision, but it seemed the way to go.

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Thanks for the replies. I have an old coat hanger I can use, and will have a nose about too see what I can find in a smaller size for smaller parts. I also probably need to find a modelling drill for this rather than risk a power drill!

 

Adding parts before painting makes sense. Saves ruining the finish with glue and having to touch up.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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This evening I've spent some time back in 123D modeling a few more bits for the build.

First is a quick demo of the almost complete front sight. I need to add the bore for the, functional, grub screw. I was going to order the correct 6-40 items from the US but postage made this a bit of an extravagance. Now I need to decide on the T-Jay supplied M3 item which is undersize or an M4 which would be oversize. At these scales 0.5mm is quite a big difference.

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Near final front sight by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

(I think the pin is 180˚ out in the image but its a separate part so would be added the correct way round.)

I also have modeled a stock end cap. I found this to be a rather tricky shape to model. It's not 100% but close enough I feel. It's also modeled to fit my stock, it should fit other but depends how aggressive you where cutting out the resin. I have also added a small stub to the rear to allow it to be glued to the tube in the T-Jay kit.

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Stock end cap by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

I have also modeled the end cap clip to fit the aluminium channel in the completion kit. The part is sized accurate to the reference guide at the moment, but the channel is a tiny bit wider so I may widen accordingly to reduce rattle. I will also need to add the knurling post print using the green stuff method.

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End clip by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

Interestingly the pin hole is sized exactly for a length of wire coat hanger, so I now have a lot of pin material. I just need to cut it cleanly and drill the channel to take it.

I also began looking into starting work on the power cylinders. I've read the docs on the blaster reference and the linked pdf but haven't yet found any dimensions. I'm currently reading through the, very long, research thread to see if I can find them in there.

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I like how you added a bit to the stock end cap, so that it fits into the tube. Great idea!

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I was hoping to have made a start on modelling the power cylinders but I'm still struggling to find the dimensions I need.  I am sure I did see them somewhere on here but I can't find them for the life of me.

 

BUT thanks to Rob .T. who sent me a link I now have some genuine hengstler connectors to replace the not so great ones on the DD casting.

 

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Genuine parts! by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

The box comes with 3 slightly different connectors, 1 which is the one we're all used to. That said sneaking in a different one is tempting!

 

The back also has the channels that have also moulded badly so I *might* attempt to graft these in but it wouldn't be simple work.

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Not had a chance to crack the tools out for a while for various reasons. But I had an itch so I've finished of a model of the power cylinders.

 

22966553683_e694bd024c_c.jpg

E-11 Power Cylinders 3D Model by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

Now they are not 100% perfect but I think they are pretty good and certainly better than what's in the DD kit. I've not added the rear resisters as I don't think you could do it right as part of the main model.

 

I think I've got all the details in there I need and I've added holes to glue in the bolts and wires I need to.

 

Again I'll share these at some point but I want to order them myself 1st so no one else is having to test these where I should be!

 

I have also ordered some sculpting tools to help me apply the green stuff when I get that far. I've also bought a pin vice and some wire to pin the parts together with.

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During the week I found a bit more time to work on the blaster. My wife wasn't feeling so well so I kept the noisy tools away and stuck with the hand tools.

Started by drilling a small hole in the end cap through from the dimple in the rear. This gave me a centre point to use a calliper with to scribe a perfectly sized circle for the D ring cap to locate it.

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Marking end cap for D ring by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

I've not glued this in place yet as I want to first paint the D-ring then use some green stuff to locate the ring more solidly. Once that's done I'll super glue on the ring cap and I'll also pin this for strength.

Next I measured and cut some 1mm styrene to bulk up the locating lugs. These were super glued in and then quickly fitted to the barrel before the glue set too much so that they could move a tiny bit when screwing into place. The result is a nice positive lock. I may have to sand these slightly once painted to account for the paint thickness however.

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End cap clicks bulked out by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

I also started working on pinning some of the smaller parts. I bought some 1.5mm brass jewellers wire for about £4 for enough to last for decades. It's flexible but in the lengths I need it will stop stuff getting knocked off so easily. I started but locating the holes on 1 part, then using some paint it press the part into place. The paint on one side will leave a stamp on the other and you just drill where the hole is. It's pretty accurate so worked well.

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Pinning the fire selector part 2 by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

I also used the same technique on the bayonet pin, but only after noticed it's about 1mm too far forwards. Not a catastrophe but annoying non the less, clearly I was too worried about the direction it faced.

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Pining the bayonet by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

I also started on locating the rear sight. I've had to put it a shade round the barrel from where it should be due to the location of the cocking slide but it will have to do, and no one would notice. I've drilled for 2 pins in the sight but only 1 so far in the barrel as I realised that the scope rail will attach here. Once I make the scope rail I'll finish fitting this part and glue it in place. I will also probably fill the part gap with some green stuff.

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Test fitting the rear sight by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

I finished up by gluing in the trigger and guard. These needed a bit of fettling with files and sand paper to get a good fit but they look good from the side. The trigger isn't perfectly central as I elected to glue it to the side of the well to give a bigger glue surface and a good solid bond. Again no one will notice this but me. I opted for a non-function trigger for strength, no sounds/lights mean no need to weaken the parts for a moving trigger.

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Completed grip by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

Next jobs on the list are the flash guard things and fit the mag and receiver to the barrel. After that I will probably need to start thinking about the inner workings, the counter and scope. I have the monocular to fit into the scope so will need to start thinking that through soon incase I need to 3d print any parts. The shapeways shipping is a large % of my cost using them.

I also picked up some liquid green stuff from my local games workshop. I'm hoping to use this in places where a more delicate touch is needed.  Other products seem to be available if GW isn't an option in your home nation of choice.

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Thanks for the detailed photos and explanations, Chris...I'm in the opening stages of my build and haven't gone back to it for fear that I'll ruin it and be left with something that's going to need a ton of work, but your photos helped a lot! I'm almost ready to jump back in!!

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Thanks for the detailed photos and explanations, Chris...I'm in the opening stages of my build and haven't gone back to it for fear that I'll ruin it and be left with something that's going to need a ton of work, but your photos helped a lot! I'm almost ready to jump back in!!

Thanks! So far I've made a couple of mistakes but nothing that's not fixable with some care and some green stuff! The best thing you can do is start, learn and make your own mistakes. We are all standing on the shoulders of those whose who came before.

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I'm interested to see what you think of the liquid green stuff. Those paint pots are terrible for keeping paint fresh - hopefully you don't end up with a solid block of GS in less than a year's time.

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I'm interested to see what you think of the liquid green stuff. Those paint pots are terrible for keeping paint fresh - hopefully you don't end up with a solid block of GS in less than a year's time.

They've never been good at that, I was into GW back in the 90s and early 00s. Best tip I have from then was to use a tooth pick to clean out the cap seal periodically and remove the "guts and grime" that builds up in there and stops the lid closing properly.

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Progress report from this weekend:

 

Started by making a clearing strip.  According to other threads the strip is 1/4" wide.  So I used the 1mm styrene in the T-Jay kit to make it.  As before, marker + vernier scribe was used and then I used a stanley knife to score and snap. 

 

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Measuring for clearing strip. by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

The strip was offered up to the barrel and cut. Wrongly. So I cut a 2nd length and this one was much better. There is still a small gap but I'll fill this with some green stuff prior to paint. I think I got the angle right, I spent a fair bit of time looking at photos of other blasters before gluing. Just for clarity, the black line in the photo is on the barrel not the strip and was what I used to line up when gluing.

 

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Clearing strip glued on by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

Next I used the dremel to sand down the flash guards. These are pretty bad moulds in the kit so I did my best. These where also sanded to try fit the barrel but they still aren't 100% vertical. If I try remove much more I am worried they will be to short.

 

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Flash guards thinned by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

I'm considering attempting to scratch build some new ones from either my stock of 1.5mm styrene and heat bending it or sourcing some pipe in the correct diameter and wall thickness and using pipe notching techniques etc.

 

Having had enough of the main weapon after the flash guards I turned my attention to the counter. I started by lapping off the ~1mm excess on the base of the moulding. Next using my Hengstler parts as a reference I used both the T-Jay supplied and my stock of black 1mm styrene to make the missing details. I also used my jewellers saw to add back in the groove and accentuate it on the other faces.

 

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Hengstler counter connector grooves added by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

I also started cutting off the moulded of the plug. Once the main plug was rough sawed off I used my dremel to sand off the rest. I also used a small box file to remove some of the more tricky parts. The result isn't perfect and I'll need to file and fill a bit but it's getting there. I also need to drill for the plug sockets at the top and bottom. Finally I also need to add in the raised key that I had to cut off when removing the plug.

 

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Cleaned up counter by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

And to finish for the day: I've ragged on the quality of the moulds in places. Justifiably I think but credit where it's due. I slotted the moulded part onto the Hengstler box I bought from RS components. It was a perfect fit. So the casting isn't all bad, the counter is a bit trapezoidal but the detail is good where present in the mould.

 

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The casting isn't as bad as I give it credit for by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

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#3 Question..
 
The lock/free retaining pin is there to  Lock = Retain, or  Free = detach the trigger group.
It should be set to LO CK.
 
KR4KrGS.jpg 
 
Side answer..
The grip is hold in place by the bolt under the grip itself.
 
 

Just so they don't get lost in the bumper update I have a few questions:

  • What do people use to pin the parts? I have various small drills but no pin material.
  • Do people add the grub screws/barrel bolts etc before or after painting?
  • I'm guessing the free/lock screw is what holds the grip on so it should be set to lock?
I think that's all I have for now but I am sure more will follow as I progress with the build.  Which I do need to get on with, Anovos shipping date is coming.
 
I also need to decide on just far I want to take the accuracy.  This will be my trooping blaster, at least initially, so it needs to be solid enough to stand up to it but also be accurate enough to keep me happy until I have time to build something better.  The easiest thing to leave out would be the extractor and not going town on the inner bolt mechanism.

 

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So this evening I've modelled up a flash guard which looks about right, I also compared it to another I found on thingiverse and sizes are very similar so I am happy. Far better than the doopydoos parts, especially after the mess I made of them with the dremel.

With this done I've decided to call it a day and order the parts.

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3D parts bundle by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

I've spent a fair bit of time messing about with the layout, sintershells (a printed casing around the parts supposed to reduce per part costs) and it looks like my parts will cost around $25 in "flexible white plastic".

The cost is 50% per part labour cost but adding the shell to reduce that is actually more expensive due to the small size of the parts compared to the size of the shell. I could sprue the parts which would almost certainly be cheaper but would add clean up time after the fact and would be a pain to add in the first place, not to mention time consuming.

I've also added a front sight guard to my uploaded file which was from thingiverse which adds another $5.

I'm too tired to mess about with card details this evening so will probably order tomorrow now.

I also ordered some M4 by 5mm cone point grub screws to hold the pin in place, though I will almost certainly use some glue too.

 

Edit: Parts now ordered, current ETA is December 30th but I don't know if that accounts for Xmas in the middle.  Final cost inc EU shipping was €39.35 for 8 parts (so 8 labor costs....) including the front sight guard from thingiverse which I didn't model.  If it comes out okay I'll provide a link to the part.

Edited by themaninthesuitcase

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The parts from shape ways came today.

 

24039649846_d5d047c979_c.jpg

3D printed parts by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

I've not had too much time to check them over but I am pretty happy with them all. The power cylinders have come out great and the flash guards look good too.

 

The front sight is much smaller than I had it in my head so I want to check that one out for size a bit more. When I get some time I'll check stuff properly but other than some of the holes being a bit oval I am pretty happy.

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Really enjoy this coming together - awesome thread mate!

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Okay so I've checked over all the measurements and I am happy with the accuracy of the print for the most part.

The holes in the front sight block, end clip and the pin are all a bit oval and so will need to be adjusted by hand. Also the stock block is a super tight fit into the tube in the T-Jay kit so will require a light sand to fit with room enough for the glue. The M4 grub screw looks like it will be a good fit for the hole I've put in, but I can't find my allen keys to try thread it in. I will try this before I reorder the flash guards incase I need to order the BA fit one which is a tiny bit larger.

The fit of the parts are good other than that though so I am happy to share the 3D files now.

One thing I am angry with my self at is I have made the flash guards 1mm thick when they should be 2mm. As strong as the plastic is I don't think the 1mm will last on such an exposed part. Bit's of the power cylinders are also 1mm but less exposed and are generally more reinforced by other parts.

I think I will have to re-model these and re-print them. This was a bit fiddly to model so I am doubly annoyed about this, that and the minimum shipping.

I've put the stl files on my dropbox for others to use, mess with, moan about how they aren't accurate etc.

Please treat these as available under a creative commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike aka do what you want but credit me, don't sell it and let others do the same.

 

Dropbox link: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/pzo18wtsem7gy82/AACy4E9bLidkd2b8TsYnzG7ca?dl=0

 

If people want to I can also upload them to a shape ways store so it's easier to order them if you don't want to manage the files your self.

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Looks fantastic mate. PM sent....

 

Maybe check through T-Jay's original thread. It might have been him who thinned down his flash guards. You can see how they look.

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Correct Ian, that was me. But if I got Chris right, his flash guards are too thin (1mm instead of 2mm).

 

The easiest method in my mind to cover this, would be to add a layer of that 1mm ABS sheet from the completion set (item #15). But this would cause some extra work...

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Hey Man,

 

Liking yr build thread, very interested to see the results of the printed parts when they come through.. Will you be sharing the auto desk files?

 

Cheers Bryn

 

Edit well there you go thanks :)

Edited by sla73

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In a nice turn of events, I was able to just "pull" the outside shell an extra 1mm out and it's maintained all of the correct curves and geometry.  It's now about 2.02mm thick which after print tolerance is fine.  What I'll probably do now is create a sty file with 2 of them in and sprue them together which will remove $1.80 from the cost but mean a small amount of clean up.

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I worked on the shape ways parts a bit last night.

 

I'll start with my opinion on the actual print and material.  The print quality is pretty good.  Rather grainy but depending on the part and paint finish this may not matter.  The holes all came out oval, probably due to their small size, and required a drill to round out turned by hand.  The pin was also oval so this was lightly sanded to round it out more.  

 

Sanding this stuff is hard.  Theres a sort of rubber like texture to the material which doesn't seem to like being sanded much.  It does however drill very well with the pin vice, using my smallest drills was easy and didn't feel like they were about to snap at any point.

 

Right onto the work.

 

I started by fitting the M4 grubscrew.  Remember this is probably within 0.1mm of accurate based on educated guesses on what would have been used.  I think if I was to re-order I'd use the BA part as I think this had a slightly larger hole in it.  This would have made the threading slightly easier.  However once the thread started it cut in well and was easily strong enough.  I ran it in and out a few times to define the thread a bit better.

 

23755388719_d202877f48_c.jpg

3D printed front sight built by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

In this image I've added the pin, no glue was needed the grub screw is more than enough to hold it in.  You can also see some of the grainyness and banding.  Other than a light sand with 200ish grit I'll not be doing much work on this as it's small and hidden inside the guard.

 

23494948894_aaac93911c_c.jpg

3D printed sight unit by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

The guard also came out great and fired perfectly on the resin barrel, which the resin guard didn't!  I'll probably run some sand paper over this to smooth it off a shade before I use green stuff to add the knurling.

 

Finally I added the drill holes to the power cylinders for the bolts and wiring.  The part had holes marked on the model but the resolution of the print lost most of this.  They did leave enough of a mark to use them to position the drill in though so I got nicely positioned holes, the 3 along the base for the wire came out more perfect than I could have hoped.

 

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3D printed power cylinders by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

Gluing in the wires was a nightmare.  My smallest drill was a bit larger than I'd like so the glue had to work harder than I'd like and took a while to dry. I used end cutters to trim the wire smooth under the base, this was then super glued too for more strength and filled in the remaining hole.  This will be lightly filed later to give a smooth surface to glue to the blaster.  The bolts had the nuts added and a drop of super glue added with a tooth pick to hold the position.  These where then cut short with the end cutters and superglued into the holes I drilled earlier.

 

The result is coming out well I think.  I know the threading is longer than some but I liked the look with a bit more thread.  I still need to add the gubbins at the rear of the power cylinders.  These were not printed and so I will need to fabricate them.  Once I know what I want I may try add these to a mk2 version but that will need me to build a 2nd blaster to justify it.

 

I am really happy with the power cylinders and I hope the 1 person I know of who's order some is too.  I have uploaded the model to shape ways and will be running a "shop" there to make ordering these parts easier, though I'll start a new thread for this later.

 

Edit:  If some one could point me at who I need to contact about permissions and location for posting the store link that would be great!

Edited by themaninthesuitcase
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