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themaninthesuitcase

Themaninthesuitcase DoopyDoo build

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This will be my 2nd attempt at an E-11.  My first build was a pipe blaster with electronics currently on hold after the PVC pipe collapsed and resulted a re-think.

 

This build will be a DoopyDoo kit with additional parts from T-Jay and Gazmosis.  The parts have all arrived now and I hope to make a start on the build over the weekend.

 

First job will be to wash the parts and make a start on working out what mods I want to make. I have 1 in mind but that will need to wait until I have had a chance to measure out the parts I will need to replace.

 

Now some images:

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DoopyDoo E-11 Brown box! by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

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T-Jay Completion kit by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

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Gazmosis E-11 blaster magasine by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

Looking forward to the results. I've read through a number of builds I hope to incorporate many mods and maybe try come up with one or two new ones, but the prior art is strong!

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Like Ian said, looks like you have everything to do a great build.

 

Following...

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Thanks for the vote of confidence everyone. Very busy these days but I hope to get the parts washed tomorrow. And start on the project properly.

 

I popped into wilko today and grabbed some sundries I'll need for this and my armour build. Got to dig out my epoxy putty I've got somewhere that's gone missing during the move as well.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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Whilst I am waiting for the kids to finish their homework: what glue are people using?

 

Would something like a gorilla glue be any good or shall I stick with a name brand epoxy?

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CA glue or super glue works best for resin to resin connections. That's why there is a 2ml tube included in your completion set. ;)

 

Just make sure to store the little bottle in an upright position after opening it for the first time. Otherwise the glue might seal your tube from the inside...

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CA glue or super glue works best for resin to resin connections. That's why there is a 2ml tube included in your completion set. ;)

 

Just make sure to store the little bottle in an upright position after opening it for the first time. Otherwise the glue might seal your tube from the inside...

I should have probably realised that.

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Had a rather busy day but I managed to get the kit washed and whilst doing so inspected the parts.

 

Casting wise they seem to have done a decent job minimising air bubbles and such. However the mould has broken down in a few spots which will need addressing. Also the sanding job was a bit heavy handed and the choice of non moulded face not always ideal (see the counter base which has 0 detail).

 

Anyway the parts are clean now which is a start. Will probably start work by drilling out the last holes, and also I want to try find my counter sink just to shave the sharp edges on those that where pre-drilled.

 

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Washing the kit by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

I also got a first hand look at the, less than ideal, front sight. I will be removing the innards and replacing, but I didn't fancy mucking about with files and glue. So I spent some time today learning 123D Design by Autodesk and have 3D modelled the part.

 

I've based the measurements on the templates on here, measuring my cast part and by eyeballing reference photos and applying known measurements.

 

That gives me this:

 

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3D model of a replacement E-11 front sight mount by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

The long edged wedge is 23mm by 9mm at the base, 6mm at the top and 6mm high. the top is 15 x 5 x 6mm. The main hole for the pin is sized to be tapped M5 and the grub screw is sized for an M3 tap. The pin will be made from a cut down M5 machine screw filed into shape.

 

At some point I will make a shapeaways order but for now I will wait as I will probably want to model a few more parts, like the locking pin rocker thingy (technical term).

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I did not double check the dimensions of your front sight block, but chapter #31 of the blaster reference has some very accurate measurements...

 

And if you check this part of the gallery chapter, you will find different photos of the real thing to compare. Have fun ;)

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I did not double check the dimensions of your front sight block, but chapter #31 of the blaster reference has some very accurate measurements...

 

And if you check this part of the gallery chapter, you will find different photos of the real thing to compare. Have fun ;)

forgot to check the guide. Will do that this evening.

 

Edit : doesn't look like I was a million miles away but I wasn't spot on. I'll convert the dastardly imperial measures into glorious metric and start over. Not sure if I'll use metric or swap to imperial screws for accuracy. Guess it depends how hard it is to source the parts.

 

Also see a nice diagram for the end clip so will make that too.

Edited by themaninthesuitcase

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Based on the diagrams T-Jay pointed me at I've re-moddled the part as accurate as I can manage with my skills and the limits of the software (i.e. it can't do 10ths of a thou, which is fine!)

 

This is the result:

 

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3D model of a replacement E-11 front sight mount - Mk2 by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

I will be sharing these at some point, if anyone would like the 123D file let me know.

 

Looking at the thread spec for a 6-40 set screw and diagram for the sight pin these are sized as clearance fit. I am not sure if I will use this and glue or re-size and try cut a thread. Part of me wants to use the threads but glue will be cheaper and easier.

 

I've also modeled up the sight pin as well. This was much trickier to get the angles correct but they are pretty close, and could be filled/filed as required. Certainly beats filing threaded rod!

 

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Front sight pin for E-11 by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

I've not added the notch for the set screw as if I use this part you'd not be using threads anyway and gives more glue surface.

 

Edit: I'll probably re-do the pin as I've learnt a lot whilst making it and have had more ideas since.

Edited by themaninthesuitcase

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The front sight base looks better now, but it seems like the hole for the vertical pin is not centered from left to right. Maybe that's just the picture...

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If you look at the diagram the top block isn't actually central, 0.12" on 1 side and 0.15" on the other (about .7mm difference). The hole is central to the base, but not the top, but that's all hard to see from the isometric angle.

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Diagram looks waaaay more than 0.7mm off centre. But it may just be the angle as you say. Does the software show measurements, or can you rotate it to check?

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Diagram looks waaaay more than 0.7mm off centre. But it may just be the angle as you say. Does the software show measurements, or can you rotate it to check?

I used the measure tool to check them all a couple of times. 123D is free (to a point) so if you download the software I can send you the file once I get home this evening.

 

Also willing to admit I screwed it up, but it looks more sensible from the bottom. I think it's a case of all the dimensions are quite small so even 1mm is a large %age.

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Hi Chris.

 

You probably already know this but many items of 3D software produce data files in there own format which are incompatible with other 3D software.

 

However many will also export to .stl format which most software can import.

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Hi Chris.

 

You probably already know this but many items of 3D software produce data files in there own format which are incompatible with other 3D software.

 

However many will also export to .stl format which most software can import.

Indeed I do, I'll share both the native and stl.
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Started working on the DoopyDoo kit this weekend rather than mucking about in 123D (and yes it was off centre, mea culpa). That said I did do a small amount of work tweaking the pin to add the V notch and correct the main bore. I haven't added the hole for the grub screw. I have the option to make it functional (using the M3 grub screw in the kit or the correct imperial 6-40 one) or sizing for a clearance fit and using glue. I am tempted to try the former and seeing how it goes.

 

I started with drilling out all the holes that needed drilling as follows:

 

1: With a fat tip permanent marker colour the holes in. Then using a digital calliper measure the holes at 90deg to each other to get a decent idea of the diameter of the holes. Set the calliper to the radius (half the diameter for those of you who weren't listening in maths). Now, again at right angles to each other, place one point of the calliper at the edge of the hole and use it as a pivot to score the half way line.

 

It should look like this and be more than accurate for our purposes:

 

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Marking DD barrel for drilling by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

Next by hand I used the 3mm drill I would use as a pilot bit to centre punch the middle of each X. Then using these as a guide each hole was drilled 3mm.

 

This gave a perfect entering hole for the 10mm bit I was to use to bore out the main holes. This is slightly under size but gives room for error/was the biggest I can fit in my drill. The drill batteries hadn't been charged in an age and the resin is a lot harder than you think so the batteries died fast. The bigger bit cut poorer than the small one. I wasn't sure if this was a hint my bit is a bit blunt or just a function of size and low batteries.

 

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Barrel drilled by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

You can see here I also drilled the key way to make clearing it easier. The files clogged fast on the black plastic inner tube so I am glad I did this.

 

I also repeated this all on the stock:

 

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Drilled out stock by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

I still need to hollow the rear of the stock but I am note sure about how best to do this. A sanding drum will take for ever, is a burr the best option? I will also need to hollow the magazine holder to fit the gazmosis part so it will get used.

 

The "finished" barrel. I still need to drill out for the front barrel bolts, and remove the wrong bit on the ejection port. I did however size the barrel to the right size as the pre-drilled was under size.

 

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Drilled and ground barrel by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

Whilst I had the Dremel out I used a sanding drum to remove the nuts from the fork end of the stock to allow me to use the replacements from T-Jays kit.

 

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Stock bolts removed by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

I finished up the night by cleaning up the trigger and guard. These both had a lot of excess on one size from the casting process so needed a heavy hand with the sanding drum initially. I am pretty happy with the shape and critical dimensions now. That said the trigger isn't a great fit yet and needs a bit more fettling. I'm also not sure I want a working trigger. Ultimately it's a replica prop part and it's about the look. I would rather have a more secure trigger than one thats easy to break.

 

I also had to clean up a run on the part, which I was a touch heavy handed but this can be fixed with green stuff.

 

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Test fitting the trigger mechanism by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

All this drilling and grinding and sanding made a nice big pile of resin. FAR too much of this ended up in my lungs as this idiot forgot to wear the mask sat in the tool box. I've felt lousy from it all day so be smart kids, wear breathing protection.

 

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Making a mess by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

Edited by themaninthesuitcase

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Bit more work was done last night

 

Started by using the dremel to remove the bolt slide? moulding. I'm reasonably happy but I think it needs a bit more work before I'm 100% happy.

 

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Bad moulding removed by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

Then I I pilot drilled the barrel bolts and whilst I was at it roughed out the stock hole and the pilot drilled the stock and stock mount.

 

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Hole drilled for stock pin. by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

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Stock pad hole pilot drilled. by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

I've found marking out with a fat marker quite handy at times as you can scratch into it and get nice clear marks.

 

I used a drill and the dremel to grind out the barrel bolts. I like the finish but I didn't have the bolts to hand so they need enlarging about 1-2mm before the bolts will fit. I will also need to drill for the bolt threads too.

 

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Barrel bolts first pass by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

I finished up the evening by roughing out some of the excess in the rear of the stock. I found that my dremel diamond grinding bit works great on the resin so I will use this next session to grind out the rest and finish up with either a pink stone or a sanding drum.

 

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Stock hollowing roughed out by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

Progress is slow but I don't have a dedicated work space atm so it takes a while to set up and tear down each session.

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Slow and steady, Chris. Looking good thus far!

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Bit of a bumper update as I managed a whole TWO evenings attacking the resin. Please note, order of events is completely made up as proven by if you go look at the order of images on Flickr.

 

First job was to hollow the small section between the stock and the "pad". This took a bit of time as it was fiddly work but I got there in the end.

 

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Stock pad cleared by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

Next I started work by grinding out the back of the stock. This took far longer than I was expecting. I started with a pink stone but this wasn't nearly aggresive enought for such a huge amount of removal. I found a green grinding stone in my kit which was much more up the job and removed most of the stock in double quick time.

 

Once the bulk was out I swapped back to the pink stone and the diamond bit. Sadly these left a bit of a mess but you won't see in there with the black paint and the tubing in the way.

 

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Stock hollowing almost complete by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

You can also see I removed the front block section. I have already modled a replacement at 10mm square but I may need to scale this up a shade now I've ground out the stock.

 

I also drilled out the stock for the bolts. I used the diamond bit to carve a taped hole to allow a snug fit on both the square sections and the bolt thread.

 

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Stock bolts fitted by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

At this point I also sized the holes on the barrel and test fitted the stock. I couldn't resist pretendign to lock and unlock it! Whilst this was on I also drilled and fitted the retaining front screw. This was secured with a few drops of super glue (handily there was some in T-Jays kit as my supply had dried up).

 

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Stock retaining screw fitted. by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

I also finished working on the barrel bolts and drilling for the bolt shanks. I've gone slightly off round on one which will need a dab of green stuff. I also had another issue, on the same side, when drilling the shank hole it broke through into the barrel. The other side was drilled slower and was fine. I'll need to add a dab of green stuff here also. You can see the side with the issue below as the bolt has a lean to it.

 

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Test fitting the barrel bolts by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

The drilling continued on into the grip. I drilled out for the hex bolt using metal bits. I find these did a much better job on the resin and also the point to the bit made centring for the 2 sizes needed far easier.

 

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Grip bolt drilled and fitted by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

I also drilled for the selector screw on the side. Getting centred here was tricky. I used a 45˚ countersink to get the right shape for the screw. I think I may have go a touch deep but I could add yet more green stuff if people think it's needed.

 

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Grip selector screw drilled by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

More drilling on the magasine reciever. I drilled out for the grub screw slightly under size so I could screw in the grub screw to get a good solid fit. I had to have a small clean up with a file but the result looks good.

 

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Mag reciever drilled for grub screw by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

Back to the dremel now. First up was the bit that holds the D ring on. There was a small tab in the back that needed removing to let the D ring fit and I also did a clean up with a sanding drum. The D ring is now very loose but I plan on adding a dab of green stuff behind it to lock it in place and stop any rattle. Not sure on order of painting yet though so I need to figure that out soon.

 

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D-ring retainer cleared by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

Last part for this session was the front sight. Out again with the green grinding stone to cut out the bulk. Again I finished up with the diamond bit and pink stone to leave a pretty decent finish. Those of you paying attention will know I have a 3D model of the trapazoid part and the sight pin I will be getting 3D printed at some point. I've not added the knurling yet as I haven't opened the green stuff/found an appropriate tool.

 

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Front sight hollowed by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr

 

I think next jobs will to be to finish the sterling section. So flash suppressors, cutting and fitting the mag to the receiver and then also drilling and pinning parts to the barrel, and finally fitting the end cap.

Edited by themaninthesuitcase
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Just so they don't get lost in the bumper update I have a few questions:
 

  • What do people use to pin the parts? I have various small drills but no pin material.
  • Do people add the grub screws/barrel bolts etc before or after painting?
  • I'm guessing the free/lock screw is what holds the grip on so it should be set to lock?

I think that's all I have for now but I am sure more will follow as I progress with the build.  Which I do need to get on with, Anovos shipping date is coming.

 

I also need to decide on just far I want to take the accuracy.  This will be my trooping blaster, at least initially, so it needs to be solid enough to stand up to it but also be accurate enough to keep me happy until I have time to build something better.  The easiest thing to leave out would be the extractor and not going town on the inner bolt mechanism.

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