Jump to content
Sentry71

Sentry's ANH E11 Build

Recommended Posts

As I wait patiently for Mark's new improved APv2 armor, I went ahead and ordered a Doopy's ANH E11 complete resin kit on October 5th. The kit shipped Oct 19th, and arrived Oct 24th.

 

Obligatory brown box pic:

 

brown_box.jpg
 

Upon opening the blaster kit, I took inventory and found I was missing a piece.

 

The magazine was nowhere to be found.

 

Not to worry, because I had already decided the mag would be replaced. I contacted Gazmosis to obtain one of his replacement magazines. It even showed up before the Doopy's kit!

 

mag.jpg
 

(I'm slightly ahead of myself, marking the eventual cut line on the mag already).

 

One more thing would be required to make this blaster even more awesome: T-Jay's completion kit. Within just a week, I had another package waiting at home for me:

 

tjay_kit.jpg
 

Mmmm, gummis... the most enjoyable part of the build.

 

And all these goodies as well!

tjay_kit2.jpg

 

I have done quite a bit of model customization with WH40K armies in plastic, resin and pewter, so I have a lot of small tools that will go well with this build. What I am missing currently, however, is a decent drill to clean out holes and areas of resin. So, to start, I'm just going over the piece, filling in minor holes and cleaning off mold lines.

 

After reading quite a few threads here, I have a few ideas of what I will be doing on mine, that may be a bit different than most:

  • I won't be drilling out all of the holes on the underside of the barrel, where the folding stock sits. Once it is painted up, it should be near impossible to see those holes are still filled. Opinions?
     
  • I have an idea on how to do the serial number mod, which I hope will be easier than doing it directly on the inner bolt. My intention is to make the serial on a bit of plasticard covered with green stuff about 0.5mm thick, and press the digits directly onto that. The numbers will (hopefully) be more consistent in depth. If that works, I'll create a channel to drop the card piece into, and seal the edges.

As I think ahead, there have been a few questions that have made me wonder:

  1. I know in Tino's thread, he references making his serial number on the inner bolt using 2mm punch dies. Can someone confirm if the actual numbers are 2mm high? I have seen punch sets at 1.5mm as well, and they look like they might give a bit more spacing to work with. 
     
  2. Can someone recommend a good way to print out the numbers for the counter? I'd like to customize that, and have it looking as good as possible (I'm not quite ready to spring for a real Hengstler just yet). I do not own Photoshop, so modifying a PSD is probably out.

 

Any and all suggestions are welcome before I start to dive into the hard parts. Thanks in advance!

Edited by Sentry71
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Gary you have got yourself a good set of components there to enable you to produce a very detailed and accurate blaster build. With regard to your queries l have the following comments.

 

1) Personally I drilled out the holes to the underside of the receiver. You are correct that it is not easy to see however they do not take much time to do with a decent rotary drill so I thought it best to do at an early stage. Maybe it is just me but I would spot it all the time and wish that I had drilled them (When you build your own blaster you tend to notice small details much more).

 

2) I will be interested to see how your serial modification idea works out. I had a similar idea and thought about 3D printing the serial number but my test pieces didn't give me the quality I was looking for. The worst case scenario being that it doesn't work out and you carry out a quick easy repair using green stuff so nothing to worry about.

 

3) Tino's reference to 2mm punch sets means 2mm high so if you have 1.5mm punches you should have more room.

 

4) I used a real counter so don't have any printable numbers that I can send though perhaps others on here will be able to send you a template. What numbers are you wanting to use ? If all else fails for something like this you should be able to use a simple program such as paint which is provided free with Microsoft PCs.

 

Most of all I would suggest that you take your time, read a few build threads and enjoy the process.

 

You can read my build thread if you like, (See my signature below), however there are many other great build threads that I referred to whilst building my own.

 

If you have any queries please feel free to ask.

Edited by Thrawn's guard

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

SIMpixels has some nice numbers on his thread below (post 12). In that thread he even offered to print them out for people. Not sure if that offer is still open, a PM wouldn't hurt ;)

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21433-simpixels-e-11-doopy-build/?p=267580

 

No idea about the serial number details, sorry. That's one of the reasons I bought the DVH kit, as it had a real bolt.

 

Sounds like you got some good stuff there already. Can't wait to see your new ideas.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's how the fun begins. ;)

 

Yes, 2mm is the height of the serial number on the bolt. Using punch numbers on a soft surface (like the green stuff) leads to deeper imprints (compared to hard metal), resulting in bigger numbers.

So I think your slightly smaller set of 1,5mm punch numbers might look more accurate in the end...

 

For the holes at the underside of the receiver I fully agree with Chris. Your sense for details will change while running this build and I would recommend to drill these holes, too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the pointers, Chris, Ian and Tino. I really appreciate it.  :smiley-sw013:

 

I have read through both Chris' and Tino's build threads (as well as others) a few times in preparation, and I really appreciate the attention to detail while documenting your work all for us. Per suggestion from both of you, I will take the time and drill out the underside holes... if it is something that is going to be visible, even slightly, then it is worth the work. Thanks for adding your thoughts on it.

 

Ian, I will send that PM regarding the counter numbers. Thanks for linking the thread, I tend to forget where some of these are. :)

I don't have a specific number in mind just yet (probably will want to do my TK number), but I'm trying to think ahead on some items.

 

For the serial, I will go ahead and order up the 1.5mm punches, and see how that goes. I didn't consider that the number would be "bigger" due to the depth that each punch would be able to obtain... that's a great point. 

 

I found my drill too - things are looking up!   :D

I'm hoping for some good progress to show after this weekend - but like Chris said, I'll be taking the time to enjoy the process.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To keep things organized (and do something useful until I can get real work done on the resin parts), I decided to get items split out according to the list that Tino provides with his kit. 

 

Very first item: monocular, for the lenses. At first, I thought I wasn't sure how to get the lenses out. I haven't seen a description of how to remove these, so I wrote up what I did.

 

For the small lenses, it is a matter of unscrewing the end with the lenses, and then carefully cutting and bending the threaded body back to let the lenses come out. I cut it into a petal pattern, to make it easier to bend the sides without touching the lenses. There will be some little plastic rings between the lenses, but they should fall out as well (left side of pic).

 

For the larger lens, there is a plastic retaining ring that I could not get to come out easily. So, I carefully cut a small section out of the ring while it was still in the housing, and once the smaller piece was removed, the larger ring loosened enough to pull it out. The large lens dropped out easily at that point (right side of pic).

 

lens1.jpg
 

Then, I took those pieces and put them in a little bag and labeled it 01. to go with the kit page.

 

bagging.jpg
 

I only plan to do this for the really small items, as things like the aluminum rail and D ring are large enough not to need their own identifiers, but the really small stuff will be easier to find and work with by being partitioned out like this, I think.

 

bagging2.jpg
 
Edited by Sentry71

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice idea, Gary. Your first picture reminds me on doing a "how to disassemble the monocular" in a future thread...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My 1.5mm punches came in the mail today, so I tried a sample of green stuff on a box flap.

 

serial1.jpg
 

The guide hashes are attempts at 2mm spacing. There seemed to be a lot of outward "push" on the left, so I thinned the right side and tried again.

 

Here's a shot after dry brushing heavily with silver, then adding black wash:

serial2.jpg

 

I think really thinning out the green stuff helped (right side). Still hard to read, though (numbers are 21587693 685).

 

I'll keep working on it, and see if I can get a better imprint without it looking like a bubble surrounding the numerals.

Edited by Sentry71
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After borrowing a few drill bits from my neighbor, I set to cleaning out the holes on the blaster body.

 

I didn't have a whole lot of luck with my pilot holes, and therefore my actual drill holes were a bit wobbly compared to the preformed holes on the barrel. Once I put the folding stock on the body for a test fit, the unevenness isn't as obvious as I had feared it might be.

 

body1.jpg
 

I was also able to pin the bayonet lug and test fit the carriage bolts for the folding stock. 

 

Test fit:

 

body2.jpg

 

Feels good to finally be making a bit of progress.

Edited by Sentry71
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

More progress!

 

Lots of support pins are being put into little bits, so that when things get glued into place, they are less likely to "disappear accidentally". 

  • Two support pins from the grip into the body
  • Support pin for the fire selector
  • Support pin for the magazine release button
  • Screw from magazine port into the body

I estimated the location for the pivot on the trigger incorrectly, causing me to fill my first two attempts with green stuff and allow it to set overnight, so I could split the difference. 

 

The grub screw for the magazine port, and the M6 bolt for the grip bottom were also put in place. Plus, several attempts to shorten the magazine from Gazmosis finally got to a point where the magazine fits pretty closely to where it needs to be.

 

handle1.jpg
 

At this point, I couldn't resist a WIP shot, concentrating on the newest parts. I'll green stuff over the pin for the trigger pivot at the end.

 

wip1.jpg
 

I'll probably do the inner bolt next.

 

Question:

For those that have used the T-Jay kit - I noticed the conduit will reach the barrel end inside, leaving just enough showing in the charging handle slot to show the appropriate amount for the inner bolt. Do most people keep this in one piece and just paint it? How should that be handled?

Edited by Sentry71

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For the conduit: paint the front part black (represents the inner barrel) and the rear end can be painted in the same color as your ejection port.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, Tino. I wasn't sure if you had still intended to have it doubled up, like your original thread - but it works well as is.

 

I decided to work on replacing the two molded screws on the front muzzle with the knurled screws. Removing the molding was more difficult than I anticipated, and in the process, I ended up damaging the area around the screws. (Dremels can get jumpy, apparently.) I did get the screws in place, however. I'll just have to do a little reconstructive surgery with green stuff later this weekend to rebuild the areas that were damaged.

 

I also added the rear sight, flash guard and ejector port guard, as well as sanding down the molded clearing strip in the ejection port. The replacement clearing strip is cut, but hasn't been added just yet.

 

wip2.jpg
 

The end cap now has the D ring and end piece in place. I am still working on building up the three locking bits on the inside, however. Green stuff squares helped, but I apparently need to make them thicker to hold properly. (Sorry, no pics of it.)

 

I feel like its coming together!

Edited by Sentry71

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I took a small detour on my build tonight.

 

I remembered seeing a post by usaeatt2 (Aaron) talking about his resin inner barrel and spring kit for a real Sterling conversion. As part of that thread, he had mentioned having cast 9mm florescent orange bullets for use as "orange tips" in locations that would require one. So, I decided to PM Aaron, and ordered a few. They showed up today.

 

I used a few 3mm x 1mm neodymium magnets that I had from my previous 40K conversions. One went into the side of the muzzle opening, and one into the side of a 9mm resin bullet.

 

orange_tip.jpg
 

A little CA glue to hold each in place, and voila! Instant orange tip.

 

I will cover the indentation on the outside of the muzzle with a little green stuff, and smooth that out so it won't even be visible after painting.

Edited by Sentry71
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like the idea of a removable orange tip for when it's required. I was trying to work out how I'd approach this and was hoping a bit of orange gaffers tape (NOT duct tape!!) would work and shouldn't wreck the paint. Your solution is far neater.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like the idea of a removable orange tip for when it's required. I was trying to work out how I'd approach this and was hoping a bit of orange gaffers tape (NOT duct tape!!) would work and shouldn't wreck the paint. Your solution is far neater.

 

You could also use orange earplugs. Squeeze, insert and after they expand it should be a tight fit. If you loose it however, there will be no worry for such a cheap item instead of the resin bullet - and usually these come as a pair, so you'll have a spare ;)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, Chris. Once I saw the resin bullets on Aaron's thread, I knew I had to give it a try.

 

Good point on the earplugs, Tino. I had considered that as well, but having something that looks "accurate" to the original weapon it is based on was my intent (though, to be fair, the resin bullets have the case still on them, and that isn't accurate. Guess I need to trim that down a bit...

 

OR!!! Maybe I need to find someone that can 3D print a red blaster bolt, and attach that to the muzzle... hmmm.

 

 

Not much progress of late. I finished gluing the grip and rear sight onto the body. Tonight will be filling edges with green stuff, as well as correcting the damage done on the muzzle when using the drill bits to put in the screws there. Pics to come once that is complete.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Green stuff fill photo collage:

green_stuff.jpg
 

After everything set overnight, I was happy with the repairs to the muzzle area. It took some work, but at least it looks a lot better.

 

I also took the time to fill in seams that looked as if they needed to be more "seamless", and added abs card strips to the bottom of the Hengstler counter (as detailed in the Blaster Reference thread). I created a seam where the counter body would normally connect, so that the entire counter section looks like a separate piece. That was easily done by dragging the point of a hobby knife across the area repeatedly to score a line.

 

 

I also added the mag to the magazine well, but didn't feel secure in just gluing it in place. So, like every other spot I can find on the body of the blaster, I added pins.

This seemed like a great time to document how I do my pinning.

 

  • I had measured the mag depth (4-5 mm), so I drew some guidelines on each side of the mag at about 2mm down from the edge.
  • Using a small drill bit that matched the size of my brass wires, I drilled two holes per side, about 10-12mm deep. This would get through the mag well and more than deep enough into the mag itself. 
  • Next, I test fit the wire to see how snug it would be. I want the wire to go in easily, but not be extremely loose.
  • CA glue is applied to the wire along the entire length that will be pushed into the resin, and then the wire is inserted. I wiggled the wire a bit to get the glue spread around.
  • Once the glue set (just a few seconds), I clipped the wire as close to the resin as possible.
  • Using a small file, I filed down the wire until it was even with the surface of the mag well.

 

pin_mag.jpg
 

I try to do this wherever I can, since it will help stabilize each of the pieces. This is going to be a trooping blaster, so I will need that extra support.

Edited by Sentry71
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very impressive work Gary. Based on the attention to detail you are using I have a feeling that this will be a really great build once complete. One quick observation is that the clearing strip looks a little wide. Good luck with the rest of your build.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One quick observation is that the clearing strip looks a little wide.

 

That leads to a good question, Chris. The strip I have is currently 7.5mm wide. Eyeballing it vs photos in the reference guide makes it look close in some pics, and too big in others (especially compared to the metal scratch built one and the blueprints themselves). I didn't find the dimensions in the reference - does someone know what the correct width should be?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gary I think that you should be aiming for something more like 5mm wide. It would however be useful to have an exact dimension from a real cleaning strip if anyone is able to measure one and advise.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll hold off changing the width until someone is able to respond. Thanks, Chris!

 

I did happen across a thread that addresses an issue I was thinking about as well... how to model the contact pins on the Hengstler counter. Someone mentioned cutting their own out of metal sheet. I looked at my supplies and thought, "Hey, Tino provided that ABS sheet... maybe I can make some out of that."

 

So I did.

 

  • I cut a small piece of ABS to be 3mm x 15mm. The length can be as long as you want, but this is the length I ended with.
  • Next, I marked a dot at 2mm and 5mm, and a dotted line at 8mm. The dots at 2 and 5mm will be centers for the holes, and 8mm is the length of the material that I want to show out from the pin base.
  • Using a small (3/64") drill bit, I drilled the holes at the dots. Then, I used my craft knife to cut the corners off at a slight angle.
  • Next, I thinned the portion that would insert into the pin base on the Hengstler. This was trial and error, but about 1/2 mm was removed from both sides, from the 8mm mark backward.
  • Finally, I used a few drill bits to open up the pin base on the Hengstler, and slid the pins in place to see if they worked. Once the size was right, I added green stuff into those holes, and pressed the pins into place. 
hengstler_pins.jpg
 
hengstler2.jpg
 

Hopefully this helps others that want a quick alternative.

Edited by Sentry71
  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is awesome and the simply best way to do it with the current completion sets.  :duim: 

 

I am already searching for correct pins, matching the originals, to add these into the kits. But it turns out harder than I expected. THIS is a really nice way to recreate them - and you did it very accurate!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, Tino. I'm finding that little piece of flat ABS to be very versatile.

 

RE: clearing strip width - I found a post by Tino in T K (Aaron)'s thread that suggests the clearing strip should be 6.4mm (link) - or 1/4" for us Imperial types. :deathstar1:

If it turns out this is the correct width, I would offer that this info could be added to the Reference thread. 

 

 

UPDATE: I received a response from usaeatt2 (Aaron), and he advised the clearing strip is 1/4" wide and 0.032" in depth. So, a trim is in order. :)

Edited by Sentry71
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...