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HOWTO: Make your ANOVOS TFA kit more accurate


SolderMaster

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Brian - you did not mention to make any cuts in the forearms/bracers and I was wondering if holes were cut there (with a fabric backing)?  In particular, I'm talking about the black stripe towards the elbow-bend behind the "tracks".  It looks like it could be a cut-out.

 

Additionally, on some of the cardboard cutout details of the forearm boxes (where we're looking at the duct tape), it looks like the square detail is also cut out.  What say you, sir?

 

Thanks for all your help on these details, Brian!

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On 9/17/2015 at 6:39 AM, ZacMuleer said:

Brian - you did not mention to make any cuts in the forearms/bracers and I was wondering if holes were cut there (with a fabric backing)?  In particular, I'm talking about the black stripe towards the elbow-bend behind the "tracks".  It looks like it could be a cut-out.

 

Additionally, on some of the cardboard cutout details of the forearm boxes (where we're looking at the duct tape), it looks like the square detail is also cut out.  What say you, sir?

 

Thanks for all your help on these details, Brian!

 

No holes in the forearms/bracers/guantlets or whatever you choose to call them. All black details are decals.....EXCEPT for Finn...

 

354b405d-7909-47bb-82e5-87e88411f65f.jpg

 

536dcd2b-dd04-4dce-8594-75d680c5f634.jpg

 

 

It seems the wardrobe department guy was sick on decal day.  :laugh1:

 

NOW, as I am typing this, I am looking through the 1000 or so photos I have...one shows a black decal in that horizontal recessed area right behind where the track greeblie goes....and another shot of a different suit. the decal is missing....OR....wasn't there to begin with. That could signify a few things...

 

A. Decal guy forgot to add it.

 

B. It fell off due to heat from shooting.

 

C. There are different ranks of FO Stormtroopers.

 

D. ?

 

I'm going to go through these again to look for any other discrepancies in decals.

 

Thanks for the question...now I'm confused.  :huh:

 

INTERESTING:

 

The LEFT forearm has the black decal....The RIGHT one does not.

 

Now, this is one screen used suit. Did it fall off? Did someone forget to put it on and they just said screw it, we need to shoot now? Right now, it's unknown.

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We cut the wings off, then sanded the edges flat.

 

 

Make sure to leave a noticable gap between the two pieces. Also, on the biceps IF you cut the step detail out...when you reassemble...leave about a 1/8 inch gap.

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I'm glad someone posted that picture of Finn because I've been wanting to ask about the gaskets shown in it.<br><br>

Is it just me or do the shoulder and forearm gaskets look like they're different materials? The ribbing seems different, and the shoulders ones actually look like they' might be fabric. They definitely seem more flexible than the rubber ones anovos is using.

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I'm glad someone posted that picture of Finn because I've been wanting to ask about the gaskets shown in it.<br><br>

Is it just me or do the shoulder and forearm gaskets look like they're different materials? The ribbing seems different, and the shoulders ones actually look like they' might be fabric. They definitely seem more flexible than the rubber ones anovos is using.

 

The shoulder and forearm gaskets are the same material. Rubber or rubber-like. 

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One thing I've notice now in a couple screen shots is how the TD is shaped to the curvature of the kidney.

 

Also, Brian did we ever get more info regarding the belt box rubber back section and how it's mounted to the belt?

 

I'm wondering if we could use some type of motor mount rubber, or similar, something very tough. You can counter sink holes into it for Chicago screws then cover it was a black glossy paint? Just a thought.

 

Edit: Do the belt boxes in question cover the rubber edge (return edge overlaps the rubber), or cap the rubber edge (the return edge is flush with the rubber)?

 

 

Finn%20details.jpg

Edited by ukswrath
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One thing I've notice now in a couple screen shots is how the TD is shaped to the curvature of the kidney.

 

Also, Brian did we ever get more info regarding the belt box rubber back section and how it's mounted to the belt?

 

I'm wondering if we could use some type of motor mount rubber, or similar, something very tough. You can counter sink holes into it for Chicago screws then cover it was a black glossy paint? Just a thought.

 

Edit: Do the belt boxes in question cover the rubber edge (return edge overlaps the rubber), or cap the rubber edge (the return edge is flush with the rubber)?

 

 

Finn%20details.jpg

 

Yes, the TD does have a curved plate. But, remember, when the Anovos suits were made, there was a time deadline and lots of red tape and hoops to jump through. It's going to be tough to mod the detonator as is.

 

Motor mounting rubber could work. There isn't a definate material listed or talked about. 

 

The rubber should be flush or close to flush with the white plastic tops. They were mounted via two Chicago screws. Assuming counter sunk into the rubber with the white top glued on.

Edited by SolderMaster
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Great thread! 

 

One thing that stumps me is this photo. The suit that I built didn't have enough flashing for this mod.

Hey Brian,

I'm going to use your thread if you allow me to post this picture as I find it interesting about how to properly fasten the belt to the armor:

11891973_1476500826003582_26006587266473

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As some of you know I've taken my time building my armor for one reason, accuracy. I was also looking into updating my armor in this area. My initial thought was to find some thin cover strip (ABS) material, fasten to the inside of the ab & kidney sections also allowing it to overlap and hang down. Cut out the belt attachment tabs and install snaps as seen in the pic. Then I thought to myself, this is a area that no one will ever see, similar to "brackets or snaps". Yes it is important for accuracy sake but then again most current TK armor is manufactured to be assembled correctly with no, or very minimal modifications. Though it is important that the entire costume be screen accurate, until more accurate armor becomes available that can be built CORRECTLY, focusing on the exterior accuracy is a more logical direction for me personally. Good luck to those who attempt this.  :duim:      

 

For the accuracy Nazi's that may chime after that statement think about it, if the suit was manufactured screen accurate from the start would this thread still exist?  :peace:

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I would definately concentrate on the outside details. The insides of these things were, if I'm being honest, a joke. Poorly assembled. Evidence of many repairs. Maybe some of us should send Disney and LFL our resumes. ;-)

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I would definately concentrate on the outside details. The insides of these things were, if I'm being honest, a joke. Poorly assembled. Evidence of many repairs. Maybe some of us should send Disney and LFL our resumes. ;-)

 

Heck I'm in for that  :jc_doublethumbup:

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Great thread! 

 

One thing that stumps me is this photo. The suit that I built didn't have enough flashing for this mod.

Love the concept of how to attach the belt...

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Heck I'm in for that  :jc_doublethumbup:

Who is to say 501st people weren't in on it and we just don't know?  They used R2 builders from that group to do droid builds..

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Who is to say 501st people weren't in on it and we just don't know? They used R2 builders from that group to do droid builds..

If that's the case...I would like to smack each and every one of them. :-)

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Hey Brian,

I'm going to use your thread if you allow me to post this picture as I find it interesting about how to properly fasten the belt to the armor:

11891973_1476500826003582_26006587266473

 

 

 

 

Back to the above photo, is it just me, or is there a black material on the inside of the armor?

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Looks like it. Maybe foam to prevent chafing?

 

Somewhere out there is an extra from the film dying for the movie to come out so their NDA is over...

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