First Doopydoos Hasbro Conversion Attempt

[bluefunoodle311[501st]]

My dream has always to join the 501st and this is my first step in doing so. I am limited on funds, tools, and space, so my craftsmanship is a little shoddy in comparison to many of the other builds on here, but I'm pretty happy with what I managed to create and hopefully it'll end up working out for me.

 

I also tried to make it a goal to do a step by step of how I ended up with what I did so others can learn from my mistakes or let me know how to improve in the future.

 

 

Tools & Parts List:

-Hasbro brand E-11 toy blaster

-E6000 adhesive

-Doopydoos E-11 conversion kit (took about 3 weeks to receive in the U.S.)

-Dremel 100

-Dremel bit kit (primarily used sanding and cutting wheels)

-Spring clamps

-Black spray Primer

-Satin Black spray paint

-Bondo body filler (not 100% necessary to get the results I did unless you intend on making mistakes along the way)

-Various grit sandpaper

-hockey grip tape

-Foil tape

Edited July 3, 2015 by bluefunoodle311

[bluefunoodle311[501st]]

I started by cutting off the red tip at the end of the barrel and attaching the new piece:

Be very careful not to cut the LED if you intend on keeping it.

[bluefunoodle311[501st]]

The next step was to put the additional rails on the barrel:

 

Hockey grip tape works great to hold pieces in place while E6000 is drying

NOTE: You need to remove the screw and snap/cut off the tab under the center of the barrel for later steps.

 

While I had the gun laying flat, I used the dremel to sand all the existing words and serial numbers off.

[bluefunoodle311[501st]]

Next up was trimming the existing scope and fitting the new one on:

 

The silver line was where I initially cut just as a rough guestimate, but in the end I cut right down to the raised part immediately to the left of it in order to fit the new pieces on.

 

Edited July 3, 2015 by bluefunoodle311

[bluefunoodle311[501st]]

I used a dremel to sand off the bottom left rail on the barrel:

 

Next up was putting the Folding Stock pieces in place, which required lots of dry fitting, adjusting, and clamping:

 

While I had it in this position in the spring clamps, I put the bottom piece of the butt cap on:

 

I also took advantage of the upside-down position to mark where the vent holes were going to be drilled on the barrel:

To get the spacing, I just measured for nine 3/8" holes with 1/4" in between, did a little math, and drew some lines on a piece of paper to use as a template before marking the center point on the barrel.

 

[bluefunoodle311[501st]]

I got bored during the drying process, so I decided to see if the electronics were still working. The LED worked, but sound was dead:

 

This is the progress thus far:

 

After everything dried and the LED lost it's charm on me, I drilled out the vent holes.

They ended up slightly out of alignment because I was hand drilling on a round surface and there was some cracking at the hole nearest the trigger because I jumped from a small bit to a much larger bit. From then on out, I started with a small pilot hole and then gradually worked up to a larger bit. 

NOTE: Be careful not to drill too deep because you will damage the other LED casing inside.

[bluefunoodle311[501st]]

I don't know if it was a necessity since I wasn't able to replicate the entire scope rail just by adding the conversion kit the way I did, but at some point I decided to carve out the scope rail and it turned into an absolute disaster due to my lack of dremel skills and the position of the plastic that needed to be removed.

 

But it was nothing that couldn't be fixed with a liberal amount of Bondo:

 

And sanded smooth later on:

[bluefunoodle311[501st]]

Moving along, I attached the ammo counter, magazine well, and magazine:

The magazine well and magazine are designed to fit on really easy but the resin casting on the Ammo counter isn't the best and might require some sanding to make it fit.

NOTE: Always dry fit pieces first.

 

Again, taking to take maximum advantage of drying time, I put the end cap and D-Ring on using hockey grip tape to hold it in place:

 

And then I flipped it over and glued on the power coils:

I may eventually add wiring, but I need to do more research on where they connect and what gauge wire to use, etc, etc.

[bluefunoodle311[501st]]

More last minute Bondo (god, I hate working with that stuff)  to fill some gaps and try to fix my horrendous vent hole:

 

And then sanded it smooth(ish):

 

[bluefunoodle311[501st]]

I did some more fine sanding, cleaned up any E6000 overflow, wiped everything down to get rid of any dust, and then spray primed and spray painted:

 

Took a minute to play around with the LED again:

 

And added the scope sticker that came with the Doopydoos kit (I was surprised to find out I had to cut the circle out from the sticker sheet myself):

[bluefunoodle311[501st]]

Here is some Before(bottom blaster) and After(top blaster) pics of the final conversion:

 

 

Which I eventually added some foil tape to once it arrived via Amazon:

[bluefunoodle311[501st]]

I've since started working on a second conversion using my lessons learned from the first one. I actually took the gun apart and addressed both sides individually and got everything cut, sanded, and prepped for the kit to be glued on. I nearly lost a finger removing the plastic cap holding the scope together, but as far as cutting out the scope rail and getting a cleaner result with the tools that I have available, it was definitely the right way to go.

 

Here it is, pretty much ready to go(hadn't trimmed the scope yet):

I was hoping to avoid the use of Bondo this time around, but the top rail on the barrel cracked when I separated the two halves of the blaster. 

 

 

 

I will update as this next attempt comes along. Until then, any and all feedback is welcome!

[Skypig[TK]]

Looks great.  I have a Hasbro/DD conversion too.  It was a fun project.

[bluefunoodle311[501st]]

I have blaster #2 assembled and ready for priming/painting just wanted to add a few quick notes:

1. I found it much easier to carve out the scope rail if you separate the two halves of the blaster (provided you can get that darn rear scope cap off in one piece)

2. JB Weld PlasticWeld Plastic Repair Epoxy Putty is my new replacement for bondo on these builds. Stuff is so much easier to prep, apply, and sand, and doesn't stink.

3. I drilled out the holes on the folding stock this time around to give a little bit more accuracy (pictures soon)

4. Be very careful when drilling cast resin. It cracks REAL easy.

 

The third one I have lined up, I will be focusing more on making the counter and power cells screen accurate and if I get that down I'll look at modifying/replacing the trigger and scope rail on the fourth Hasbro I have laying around. I think I'm going to go without the counter and power cells on that one just to have something different and lighter as an option.