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Ukswrath's FOTK build thread


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Well the boxes have begun to arrive. So excited       Tools: Exacto knifes (large & small) Lexan Scissors http://www.amazon.com/Duratrax-Body-Scissors-Reamer-3-P

A submission photo, wishing I had a gun. Serious build tutorial update in the works.  

Submission pics  

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Nice work with adding the extra ABS on the yoke. I still need to go back and add that to mine, just have been busy doing other stuff and forget to go do it. lol<br><br>

Any holy super magnets Batman!! I bet that took you some time to separate each and every one of those when gluing lol. I favored clamps over magnets, except for the long straight areas because of this reason, but I also am just using ceramic magnets wrapped in masking tape to prevent them from cracking / falling apart or leaving scuff / black marks on my armor pieces. Have had those since I built my classic TK and recycled them this go around. ;)

Edited by Punkers
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Thanks sir.
I think people don't realize how easy earth magnets are to deploy and collect. I keep them in stacks of 20. Deploying I slide the end magnet off with one hand and with the other grabbing it placing it where it needs to go. Collection is even easier, once you have a stack of 2 or more place the stack on the magnet to be removed like a tool to detach. When removing one side the other falls off in my hand or is attracted to the next closest. When disassembling the yoke for example, even with all those magnets it literally took me less than a 30 seconds.

Edited by ukswrath
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Thanks sir.

I think people don't realize how easy earth magnets are to deploy and collect. I keep them in stacks of 20. Deploying I slide the end magnet off with one hand and with the other grabbing it placing it where it needs to go. Collection is even easier, once you have a stack of 2 or more place the stack on the magnet to be removed like a tool to detach. When removing one side the other falls off in my hand or is attracted to the next closest. When disassembling the yoke for example, even with all those magnets it literally took me less than a 30 seconds.

 

 

For magnet newbs, be careful when allowing magnets to jump to one another, they can easily break/fragment. I personally cover each magnet/magnet group with painters tape to help prevent breakage. 

 

Great work and documentation Tony, I was just too lazy to properly document my build, or too worried I was not doing things right.... 

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For magnet newbs, be careful when allowing magnets to jump to one another, they can easily break/fragment. I personally cover each magnet/magnet group with painters tape to help prevent breakage. 

 

Great work and documentation Tony, I was just too lazy to properly document my build, or too worried I was not doing things right.... 

 

haha I'm still worried about not doing it right, thanks Charles

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Assembly cont...

 

Thighs

 

Test fit - Using magnets test fit thighs to ensure glue tabs will line up and identify any assembly issues that may arise.

 

UPDATE 12/1/15: If you're shooting for accuracy DO NOT glue the inner thighs. They will be velcroed at a later time.

 

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One issue that became apparent, slight manufacturing design error. I'm sure someone else may have noticed this.

 

This area here on the outsider thigh at the greeblie indent, the area the buckle greeblie resides. It's warped because the mfg didn't indent the front thigh glue tab to accommodate for the rear thigh greeblie mold.   

 

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What they should do (ANOVOS), hope they're reading this, is step this area to accommodate for the indent.

 

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Bottom line I didn't like this setup so I modified it a bit by cutting the section out.

 

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This is how the joint fits now. You can clearly see the difference in how the two sections mate. 

 

After...

 

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After the slight detour, Assembly cont...

 

Apply Devcon glue to outer thigh glue tabs.

 

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Assemble with clamps and magnets.

 

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After drying.

 

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Apply glue to inner thigh tab. Apply clamps and magnets.

 

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Let dry.

 

Installing holster riser. After test fitting apply glue to underside of riser. 

 

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Let dry.

 

Finished thighs

 

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Edited by ukswrath
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Assembly cont....

 

Shins

 

Like with the thighs test fit the shins - Using magnets ensure glue tabs will line up correctly and identify any assembly issues that may arise.

 

IMG_1818.jpg

 

Like with the thighs there's a mfg mold issue at the outer greeblie buckle area. If you look closely you can see the covering edge (rear calf section) is raised higher than the front shin section.

 

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I didn't like this, so as with the thighs I marked where the indent should have been and cut a section out so the location would fit more accurately.

 

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After the cut and retest fit.

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Test fit side boxes

 

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Ready to assemble.

 

Mark location where glue is to be placed.

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Apply glue to inside of rear calf side (left leg). I glued this section this way for more accurate glue placement due to the raised and lowered sections molded for the outside boxes.  

 

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Assemble.

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Right leg doesn't doesn't have to be as specific. Apply glue to glue tab.

 

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Let dry then remove clamps and magnets.

 

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After drying apply glue to left outer boxes and let fry

 

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Finished.

 

IMG_2477.jpgIMG_2478.jpgIMG_2479.jpgIMG_2480.jpg

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Assembly cont....

 

Chest modification...  :angry: NOT HAPPY!    :6:  :56pullhair: ANOVOS  :lightemperor:

 

:pint1: ok I'm over it... for now

 

 

New indent

IMG_2394.jpg

 

 

My modification version. After rounding off the edges of the replacement chest indent I placed it over the existing indent from the inside and trace out the block.

 

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Using the dremel and plastic cutter cut the hole out.

 

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Having to cut a hole in my chest does NOT give me the warm and fuzzies. Can you tell?

 

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Placed new indent block in the hole and temporarily glue it into place using CA glue.

 

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Apply Devcon glue around the connecting corners from the inside.

 

IMG_2426.jpgIMG_2427.jpgIMG_2428.jpgIMG_2429.jpgIMG_2430.jpg

 

 

Ready for filler

 

IMG_2431.jpg

Edited by ukswrath
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Beautiful work on the greeblie indent mold situation there.

 

I noticed the same thing on the kit I've been helping with, but we just built it.  This is definitely something I'll be doing with my pieces in the not too distant future.

 

Looking good, brother!

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Assembly cont...

 

Biceps.

 

Cleans all burs from corners and prepare for assembly.

 

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Test fit sections prior to assembly.

 

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For those who do not have a template for your inner cover strips, follow along. If you do have a template feel free to skip ahead.

NOTE: The inner cover strip is only needed on the bicep outer edge. The inner edge has a glue tab.

 

Measure and cut cover strips from the strip material provided.

 

In my case the cover strips measured 215mm in length and I used the standard 25mm for the width.

 

Bicep%2011.jpgBicep%2014.jpgBicep%2015.jpgBicep%2016.jpgBicep%2017.jpg

 

 

Outline and cut out outer bicep indent. For best results evenly use the cover strip between bicep sides.

 

Bicep%2018.jpgBicep%2019.jpg

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Cut out indent section.

 

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Trim and taper upper and lower strip ends.

 

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Test fit cover strip and bicep halves.

 

Bicep%2024.jpgBicep%2025.jpg

 

 

Apply glue to inside of bicep, hold in place and let dry.

 

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45 minutes later remove clamps and magnets.

 

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I cut a bit too much off at one of the edges so I applied painters tape to create a dam for the glue the will recreate my missing area.

 

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Apply glue to cover strip this time. Easier to manage in my opinion.

 

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A bit more glue at the discrepancy area lol.

 

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Assemble.

 

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45 minutes later. Test fit the inner connecting edges.

 

Bicep%2041.jpg

 

 

Apply glue and assemble.

 

UPDATE 12/1/15: If you're shooting for accuracy DO NOT glue the inside of the bicep. It will be velcroed at a later time.

 

 

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Finished, prior to filler

 

Bicep%201.jpgBicep%202.jpgBicep%203.jpgBicep%204.jpg

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Assembly cont...

 

Shoulder Bells.

 

Prepare upper and lower shoulder bell sections for assembly.

 

IMG_2161.jpgIMG_2162.jpgIMG_2163.jpgIMG_2164.jpgIMG_2160.jpgIMG_2159.jpgIMG_2158.jpg

 

 

Funny thing happened here. So for at least a hour myself and my wife measured and measured, then attempted to make mathematical calculations, all to come up with the exact center of the main bell section so when the upper was glued in place it would be centered. Here's our progress. 

 

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After all that I finally said, "forget this!" and I eye balled it. Man! talk about over thinking something lol  :laugh1:

 

Once I found what I believed was my center I traced out the upper section, applied glue and assembled.

 

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Finished.

 

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Edited by ukswrath
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Assembly cont...

 

Belt and boxes. Since at this time of post I'm still waiting for my soft parts and HELMET! I guess I'll focus on the boxes.  :D

 

After extracting boxes from the endless pile of plastic I sat down to do a little prep work before assembly. 

 

UPDATE 12/1/15: If your shooting for accuracy, boxes 10I & 10G will not be used and are to be made out of rubber. As illustrated later in this build they fit slightly inside boxes 10H & 10J with the outer diameter the same. The base of the rubber will be contoured to follow the contour of the waist belt. If you plan on making the accuracy update DO NOT glue these particular boxes together, if you don't, continue on.

 

 

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Matched up the boxes. 

 

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6J fits inside 9N

 

Temporarily assembled

 

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6I fits inside 9L, and 9M sit atop 9L.

 

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In my build I will take the two larger boxes that hang vertical and make them storage compartments however, before we get to that lets get them ready to mount to our belt.

 

NOTE: As new information regarding the canon armor assembly is be discovered the belt assembly has also changed. At this point you have two options, continue on with the standard assembly as instructed by previous builders and ANOVOS which consist of mounting the waist belt boxes using 1/4" Chicago screws that will be fashioned to the standard 2" nylon webbing and 2" floor mat material...... or the new accuracy update method which requires different materials and hardware which are mentioned starting in the accuracy belt assembly section found here >  http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31877-ukswraths-tfa-build-thread-tk-10116/page-16#entry443455 

 

Standard Method: 

 

Here's the 1/4" Chicago screws we'll be using to mount the boxes to the nylon belt provide with the soft parts.

 

IMG_2061.jpg

 

 

Each box back plate has indents you will drill out for the mounting screw installation. You'll need a 7/32" drill bit for this portion. 

 

Using a drill drill out the indents.

 

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Once the holes are drilled you'll want to test fit the screws before applying glue.

 

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I may have mentioned before that I wouldn't be using E6000 on anything else during this build, humm.. yea about that. A little dab on he inside head of the screws won't hurt.

 

Apply glue and insert female screw from the inside .

 

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Let dry..

 

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Gluing the top to 9L. Add bit of glue around the top edge.

 

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Install 9M and center.

 

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Apply glue and assemble center waist belt boxes.

 

IMG_2407.jpg

IMG_2425.jpg

 

 

Let dry...

Edited by ukswrath
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Assembly cont...

 

Ab & Kidney

 

After the trimming I performed a test fit to see how the ab and kidney fit me. A little bit of painters tape did the trick.

 

 

IMG_1733.jpgIMG_1737.jpgIMG_1739.jpg

 

 

A few selfies later it was determined the kidney would have to be split in the rear center. I chose to split mine before the attaching it to the ab.

 

Using my steel ruler I followed the crease in the armor and made the cut.

 

IMG_1740.jpgIMG_1741.jpgIMG_1743.jpgIMG_1745.jpg

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At this point I prepped the kidney and ab after checking my side seems. Performed a test fit with the sections.

 

Ab%201.jpgAb%204.jpg

 

 

Applied glue to the kidney sections and assembled. NOTE: There's a slight crease in the kidney that you can align the ab to. This assembly was probably the simplest step in the process, IMO.

 

Ab%201.jpgAb%205.jpgAb%207.jpg

 

Let dry.

 

The ab box mounting will be addressed at a later time. 

 

 

NOTE: Another area prone to cracking as discovered by Peter (aka Barcoder) is a area on the back side of the ab, near the outer most belt mount. Apparently this area may crack over time from the stress from getting into and out of the armor. I noticed it flexed pretty heavily during test fitting. 

 

 fd426e53-bbd4-457f-a33e-1065e0bc5788.jpg

 

 

As with my yoke I reinforcement the area, this time using cover strip material and excessive amounts devcon glue.

 

Ab%2039.jpgAb%2040.jpgAb%2041.jpgAb%2042.jpg

Ab%2044.jpgAb%2045.jpg

Ab%2047.jpgAb%2048.jpgAb%2049.jpg

 

 

Once dry I'll dremel down the area and recheck the strength.

Edited by ukswrath
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Quick question about the devcon plastic welder. I'm FAR AWAY from assembly in my build having just stared trimming- but have to say that your build thread is a huge source of inspiration that I CAN DO THIS :)

 

I've always used E6000 for its forgiveness and flexibility. My question is with the plastic welder - does it cure flexible or brittle? On the pieces that have to flex for dressing- does the welder seem to dry where it could crack over time?

 

Thanks again for the great documentation

Edited by Pencap510
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Hey Ty, for the record E6000 I've been told by the Alpha group, is too flexible and the areas that have bondoed seems are prone to cracking.

 

Regarding the Devcon, it's pretty much the same as the over the counter plastic welders everyone else is using however, the Devcon in my experience though rigid has a bit of flexibility (pliable), similar to the ABS but not as flexible. Time will tell how it holds up.

 

The reason I went with the Devcon Welder II is because plastic welder type glues are what is recommended for the build and I wanted to use something that is known in the professional auto body world to be the best plastic adhesive designed take abuse, not to mention it's very easy to apply. 

 

Hope this helps    

Edited by ukswrath
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