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Clear Coat?

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Has anyone put clear coat on their TFA armor? If so, what kind was used?

 

I know scuffing on the armor and dings to the paint job are inevitable, however, I was thinking of adding that layer of protection to try and minimize the constant repainting that might be needed. 

 

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If I remember correctly, there was a concern about cracking/ spider webbing of the clear coat. However, I believe a few had an auto body paint shop take care of the paint, and I wonder if a clear coat was used for those. Do we care about super high gloss? I ask because I read a lot (and slept little) during the initial build, and I seem to recall a post about the armor not being super high gloss… however, I would want someone to confirm, clarify or discount my hazy recollection. Especially since we had the beautiful TFA exhibit to enjoy. :)

I asked Sean about our plans for repainting our kit. If we go by means of auto shop, we'll ask about clear coating. (To research whether the clear coat would yellow faster than just the paint.) If we were re-spray paint ourselves, we probably would not add a clear coat.

Happy building!! -Krista  :atat:

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I know we were steered away from clear coating while we were on a super time crunch in the event of spider webbing, or potential setbacks to the paint jobs. But now that we're no longer under that C7 deadline... I'm thinking of putting on a protective coat when I repaint during warmer weather. 

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Has anyone put clear coat on their TFA armor? If so, what kind was used?

 

I know scuffing on the armor and dings to the paint job are inevitable, however, I was thinking of adding that layer of protection to try and minimize the constant repainting that might be needed. 

Yes. Clear coat it. Use the same brand of paint, only clear gloss. You should be fine.

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I noticed that some folks (myself included) went with the rattle can Rustolium paint-primer-in-one. I also used the same brand of white primer to cover all the seams and fill any texture in my filler. I wet sanded the primer with 600 and then 800 grit, over the sink and rinsed thoroughly. You can feel the slick texture in the water and easily find spots that you might have missed. Your primer will feel like glass when you do it this way. I've used this method many times on styrene troopers.

 Had it been my choice of rattle can, I would have used Krylon fusion (for plastic). I should have gone with my gut. They were all different colors anyway.

 I would have shared this information at the start, but I was never given authorization to access the proper forum.

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Anytime you paint with rattle can, always STAY WITH THE SAME BRAND.

If you don't, you run the risk of your paint job failing. Not all brands of paint play well with each other. This is where most paint jobs fail. Mixing companies...

 

To get the best bond, don't rush it. Let the white thoroughly dry (read the can. 24+ hours). This will (hopefully) prevent any flaws, or webbing when you go to put on the clear coat. Sand with the finest sandpaper you can find to give it something to grip, before putting on the clear. Don't sand too much, the paint is only mm thick.

 

Put on a few coats of white before the clear (no need to sand between coats, or wait.).

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Put on a few coats of white before the clear (no need to sand between coats, or wait.).

 

That's a good call with a lot of paint, but I had some alligator skin when repainting with rustolium on this very project. I ended up sanding/stripping a couple pieces.

 

No matter how careful I am with rustolium, it just doesn't like me.

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That's a good call with a lot of paint, but I had some alligator skin when repainting with rustolium on this very project. I ended up sanding/stripping a couple pieces.

 

No matter how careful I am with rustolium, it just doesn't like me.

 

I've had the same experience on other projects with Rustoleum. No amount of precaution, curing, etc prevented the random spiderwebbing. It wasn't the Ultra coverall stuff, but Rustoleum routinely crackled with the exact same type of paint.

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 I have used Rustolium on metal yard furniture, with satisfactory results. I think we are having difficulties because of the plastic we are painting and nothing more.

I find a lot of primer helps, but it seems like one shot is all you get.

 

If I can talk everyone in to shooting Krylon Fusion, we will get a good coat and all look close to the same shade of white.

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I believe they picked the Rustoleum because it was the one matching closest to the buckets. We may see color changes or want to repaint the bucket if we're going with a different brand. 

As for me, I'm almost done with my paint jobs. Pending on how other people's clear coat come out, I may still do that, but you wont see me switch brand at this point lol... far too happy to finally be done with it (and yeah, what was mentioned before about 24+ hours is exactly why my armor is taking it's time, I give it a couple of days between layers). 

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If you want your armor to match the Anovos TFA helmets....

 

Use Rustoleum x2 Glossy White spay-paint cans. (No clear coat.)

 

A painted sample of the Rustoleum x2 Glossy White spay-paint was sent over so that the helmets would match this perfectly. I know I made the sample. :)

 

You should also be using the Rustoleum x2 Simi-Gloss Black for the back halves of the two belt boxes.

 

Kevin W.

SG2

Edited by kwdesigns
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Kevin, in your experience is there a major downside to using clear coat if we were to also apply it to the helmet? I know it can be harder to fix scratches than with regular paint, but I'm also having to do a lot of polishing after troops because of all the marks on the paint. It would be nice to reduce that. ;)

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I have a feeling that we're going to see troopers in Ep7 banged up, scratched up, weathered, etc... I'm not going to mess with a clear coat, nor try to keep the armor completely pristine.

 

But if I were, yea staying in the same brand is important as well as making sure the armor is clean from dirt/oils (fingerprints) as well as the right temp/humidity conditions to prevent spidering and other defects.

 

So for now letting my armor naturally weather/get dinged up from normal trooping is my plan, and should be plenty canon come December...

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If you want your armor to match the Anovos TFA helmets....

 

Use Rustoleum x2 Glossy White spay-paint cans. (No clear coat.)

 

A painted sample of the Rustoleum x2 Glossy White spay-paint was sent over so that the helmets would match this perfectly. I know I made the sample. :)

 

You should also be using the Rustoleum x2 Simi-Gloss Black for the back halves of the two belt boxes.

 

Kevin W.

SG2

Hi Kevin,

 

Are the two belt boxes the two horizontal belt boxes, or the medium and large vertical ones? I would assume the latter, but wanted to double check before updating guidance on the TFA TK info.

Thanks so much for your time and insights. -krista :atat:

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Only the 2 front narrow boxes that are similar are painted simi-gloss black on the back halves.

 

Kevin W.

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