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justjoseph63

Supply list for your TK build....

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You don't list where you are located, but you should try Lowe's, Home Depot or an auto supply store.  Be sure to sand down the tube with 220 grit (or similar) sandpaper and clean it thoroughly first.

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On 5/14/2015 at 9:54 AM, justjoseph63 said:

12.  Rivets-**  5/16 (8mm).  Round head bifurcated/split rivets with washers.  You will need 9.  (3 for the kidney, 3 for the ab,  one for the cod piece, 2 for the thigh ammo pack).

Hello all! Probably a silly question but I figured better safe than sorry... for the split rivets, does the 5/16 refer to the head diameter or the length? For the other measurement, is there a recommendation? Same question for the speed rivets - are there specific head diameter/lengths that should be used?

 

Thank you! Trying to get odds and ends together to start a build. Unfortunately, i had already bought some armor on ebay before i started browsing the forums here and saw the tons of recommendations against doing so... at least it wasn't crazy expensive. The box is showing up tomorrow so I guess I'll see what I get, and if I have to replace it with a better kit then so be it. What tends to be the main deficiency with armor bought off ebay? Is it mainly quality, or accuracy, or a mix of both/something else?

 

Thanks again!

 

-edit Just did some browsing through the other threads... are recast scenarios the main reason ebay-bought kits are no-nos? If so then it makes sense... makes a bit of an jerk outta me for buying off ebay but again it was fairly cheap... worst case, I can just practice the assembly process on it so that i hopefully wouldn't make as many mistakes with an approved kit if I need to buy one.

Edited by IBSkyde

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The 5/16ths size refers to the head diameter, Jon.  For the ones I sell, that measurement is also the length of the shank.

 

Sorry to hear about your ebay armor, but believe me you are not alone.  I did the exact same thing before I found out about the 501st.  What I ended doing is exactly what you are planning.  I built the entire kit, then sold it it on eBay as a "Halloween costume... Not 501st approvable".  It sold in 2 days for exactly what I paid for it, and I learned a LOT about building a TK!

If you have the option to send it back (unopened) and are looking to (hopefully) join the 501st, I would suggest doing so and checking out the armorers in this section:

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/

And also these:  https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19329-where-what-and-whom-to-avoid-when-buying/

 

They will cost a bit more of course, but you know that they are approvable, better built, and not re-cast (copied) from a reputable maker.

Feel free to ask any questions.. we are here to help!

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This thread is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you sir! I'm compiling a list of what I will need, material-wise, since I'm planning on ordering my RS build-it-yourself kit this spring or summer. The process seems pretty daunting, but rewarding! 
There are a lot of us who have built the RS kit and we are happy to help. Any kit is daunting when you first start out but it is totally worth the effort. Baby steps is how you get thru it.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

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1 hour ago, Biomewanderer said:

Thank you for the list. You saved this noob so much time. Mesa thank you ever so much.:smiley-sw013:

Glad to hear it helped!

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On 7/4/2017 at 1:36 PM, belloq said:

Needless to say at this point, but this thread is ridiculously helpful. Does anyone happen to know if the fasteners, clips, straps, etc. included with the strapping kits for ANH TK helmet and armor kits from RS Prop Masters are screen-accurate? If not, for which pieces listed here might I need swap out the RS parts?

 

I believe their bracketing is screen-accurate.  I will caution however that that style of brackets are a known weak point- where they attached at a thin point at the return edge of the abs and chest, and has pulled through/broken on several RS troopers I've seen.  We've fixed them with ABS paste and adding a Tandy Snap plate so the weight/stress isn't on the brackets, but we didn't bother removing them.  

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On 5/14/2015 at 7:54 AM, justjoseph63 said:

50.  Respirator-  An informative post was made by Clint, (cm325i) concerning the effects of E-6000 glue on some individuals.  Definitely worth a read:  http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/33347-e6000-warnings-read-them-and-wear-a-respirator/

 

Sorry if this is a repeat or if you all knew this already.

 

While I don't have experience building costumes, I have been working with chemicals for my job for some time now, including tetrachloroethylene (found in the glue) and I've got experience with respirators. If you are worried about exposure and looking for a respirator, here are my tips. I'd recommend you get a half-mask style one made from silicone instead of plastic. Silicone respirators are a little softer, so it's easier to get a good fit. After wearing it for a little while, plastic will start to hurt your face but silicone is more comfortable. Half-masks are just a lot lighter, especially since you're working looking down at something, so there will be less neck strain, and are much cheaper than full face masks. Plastic will be cheaper than silicone, but in my opinion not worth it. If you wear glasses, you may have some difficulty getting them to work over it, since for some people the mask sits over the part of the nose that their glasses sit. Just play around a little until you get it to work, but don't jam your glasses inside since this will break the seal and defeat the purpose.

 

Since this is to protect against fumes instead of just dust, having a good fit is more important. To test the fit, cover the holes where the cartridge(s) attach and try to inhale. Next, cover the hole where you exhale from and exhale. If you get air coming in or exiting from around the edges on either of these steps it's not fitting properly and you can either adjust the straps or look at a different size. You should do this every time you put it on to make sure you've put it on properly.. If you're really worried about the fit, you can also get a professional to test it and they will either use a spray that you can taste if there's any leak or a computer setup that detects if any particles end up inside the mask from a candle or something. Just google respirator fit testing in your area. Facial hair can interfere with the fit as well.

 

Lastly, the cartridges. For protection from just dust from sanding etc, you only need dust cartridges. The tetrachloroethylene fumes need organic vapour cartridges. Organic cartridges will not work for dust and dust will not work for organics. If you do want to use it for both, you can get combination cartridges that protect from both. Read the instructions that came on your cartridges because that will tell you how long they can be used. Organic vapour cartridges usually work by activated charcoal or something similar, so once the package is unsealed, they're always on (not just when you breathe through them). At work we get around this by putting them in air-tight ziplock bags when we're not using them. If you can smell the glue through it but your respirator is well-fitted, they're not working anymore.

 

Good luck!

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I want to say thanks to Joseph and everyone who's helped create this list. 

In preparation for purchasing said supplies I put the list into a Google spreadsheet.  I added columns for received, ordered, cost and location. 

tPJG9tz6pTFqIaoIOi_ChoBq_V7e3SqpJmKCG7J4

The columns are filterable so you can weed out the items you've purchased or, if you're going to a store for a few items you can filter down to just those items.  (You'll need Google Sheets installed on your phone for mobile use)

If anyone is interested this sheet can be found here.  It's read only so you'll have to go to File-->Make a Copy to copy it to your google account. 

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8 hours ago, Dielotski said:

I want to say thanks to Joseph and everyone who's helped create this list. 

In preparation for purchasing said supplies I put the list into a Google spreadsheet.  I added columns for received, ordered, cost and location. 

tPJG9tz6pTFqIaoIOi_ChoBq_V7e3SqpJmKCG7J4

The columns are filterable so you can weed out the items you've purchased or, if you're going to a store for a few items you can filter down to just those items.  (You'll need Google Sheets installed on your phone for mobile use)

If anyone is interested this sheet can be found here.  It's read only so you'll have to go to File-->Make a Copy to copy it to your google account. 

This is amazing! Great work and thank you so much.

If you don't mind, I'll add this to the very first post. ;)

 

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Good job Ray

I'm in the middle setting similar to this spreadsheet too. 

If its ok with you Ray, I'll copy you spreadsheet and will make some adjustment based on our sources here in our area.

 

 

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Danny,  
Thanks! I would say go for it but Joseph already has. :) I'm following this thread so I'll try to keep it updated. And it may be worth while for someone to periodically make a copy of it in case I'm brainwashed by filthy Jedi and delete it uncontrollably.  Or if you'd prefer to have someone a bit more vetted than me take over they could copy it and link to that one instead.

 

I also forgot to mention I added two additional tabs for an armor/clothing list and one for weapons and other props.  Both of them are blank as far as a list goes but one can populate it with items for their particular builds.

 

Wibowo,
I'm glad it will be of use to you. Copy away!

Edited by Dielotski

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If you're new to this I would suggest the E-6000 because you will make mistakes like all of us have. The big difference is that CA glue makes it a lot more expensive.

is it recommendable for a someone new to building TK armor to use CA glue and zip kicker instead of buying E-600?


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On 9/30/2018 at 7:12 PM, TommyV311 said:

is it recommendable for a someone new to building TK armor to use CA glue and zip kicker instead of buying E-600?

Using CA (super) glue is really not recommended for first time builders, Tommy.  First, due to it's thin viscosity it can run or drip, and if it gets on your armor it will at the very least cause a rough patch even if you wipe it off right away.  If it dries, expect to spend a lot of time with super fine grit sandpaper removing it, and then polishing it out.

Secondly, after it dries it can become brittle, and on areas like the front calf connection this can cause problems as they are under a lot of stress from opening and closing them while getting suited up.

Lastly, if you do make a mistake it is unforgiving.

The main reason we recommend E-6000 is that it had fantastic adhesion properties, but can be removed through various ways if needed without damaging your armor.  The downside is that it requires extended drying time, but it is well worth it, trust me.  I'm sure (like all of us) that you want to get your kit done as quickly as possible, but like I always say, building a set of armor is more of a marathon than a sprint, so take your time.  You will get there!

Don't get me wrong, I always keep a supply of the gel type CA glue in my bin along with an activator for emergency repairs, but that's all I use it for.

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TK newbie here....  

First off, thanks for this thread.   I've acquired about 95% of the supplies on the list.    ANOVOS kit has been sitting in its box for almost 2 years now.  

My intent is to go for most screen accuracy, which means a CENTURION build.      My questions are: 

Are all the parts / supplies needed for CENTURION listed on this first original post ? 
And if so, are the 20 classic brackets from @Mr. No Stripes required for CENTURION approval ?? 

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23 minutes ago, Bad Droid said:


Are all the parts / supplies needed for CENTURION listed on this first original post ? 
And if so, are the 20 classic brackets from @Mr. No Stripes required for CENTURION approval ?? 

Not all of them.  The ones with the red asterisks denote Centurion requirements, (split rivets, pan-head TD screws, correct ear screws).  The screws on the bottom of the Anovos ears are incorrect (round head), however the top ones are good (flat head countersunk).  

48iiBJe.jpg

 

The bracket system is not required for Centurion.  It is indeed screen accurate, but is a matter of choice between that and nylon/elastic straps.  I would STRONGLY advise you to take the Velcro strapping that Anovos supplies and throw it in the trash.  It is pure garbage.  I would also advise replacing the canvas belt.  It is cheap, flimsy and will not pass at level 3.  The holster is AWESOME, though.

You will also need flexible hand guards for level 3.  There are a few sources for these, but I do sell them.  Information is under my avatar below.

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8 minutes ago, justjoseph63 said:

 

Not all of them.  The ones with the red asterisks denote Centurion requirements, (split rivets, pan-head TD screws, correct ear screws).  The screws on the bottom of the Anovos ears are incorrect (round head), however the top ones are good (flat head countersunk).  

48iiBJe.jpg

 

The bracket system is not required for Centurion.  It is indeed screen accurate, but is a matter of choice between that and nylon/elastic straps.  I would STRONGLY advise you to take the Velcro strapping that Anovos supplies and throw it in the trash.  It is pure garbage.  I would also advise replacing the canvas belt.  It is cheap, flimsy and will not pass at level 3.  The holster is AWESOME, though.

You will also need flexible hand guards for level 3.  There are a few sources for these, but I do sell them.  Information is under my avatar below.

Thanks for the quick response.    
- So the bottom round head screws just need to be replaced with flat head countersunk ???    I think I can manage that. 

- Bracket system is not required for Centurion.   Good to know.    Noted.  

- Velcro ANOVOS strapping and canvas belt is already in a garbage landfill somewhere.    Got that bit of advice early on.   
- and will definitely look in to purchasing a set of flexible hand guards.     Thanks for the advice.     

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@justjoseph63 Looking through all the items still needed on my list for CENTURION...  I'll break my piggy-bank here shortly, so I can order 
the correct Ear screws, correct TD screws, the set of 10 split rivets, the set of 4 single cap rivets, and the Centurion flexible hand guards.  

Thanks !!!

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10 hours ago, Bad Droid said:

@justjoseph63 Looking through all the items still needed on my list for CENTURION...  I'll break my piggy-bank here shortly, so I can order 
the correct Ear screws, correct TD screws, the set of 10 split rivets, the set of 4 single cap rivets, and the Centurion flexible hand guards.  

Thanks !!!

You won't need to order the split rivets, as Anovos includes those.  All you will need are the hand guards, TD screws, and you can use the split rivets they supply for the thigh ammo pack (they are approved at Centurion).  The cap rivets are screen accurate, but not a requirement.  Since you only need 2 ear screw sets I will throw those in for free.  Just PM me before you order and I will make you a package deal!

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Was able to get glue at Canadian Tire, though some hobby shops carry it. Screws/snaps I purchased at Tandy Leather in Mississauga

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I would like to purchase any screws snaps and anything else you have available so I can begin my build.

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3 hours ago, G578 said:

I would like to purchase any screws snaps and anything else you have available so I can begin my build.

I assume that you are (hopefully) aiming for Centurion, Eriberto, but before you purchase any hardware or flexible hand guards that I offer, please note that some armorers send all (or portions of) the ones you will need for the higher levels.  If you let me know who you got your kit from, I can let you know so that you order only the supplies that you will need (if any).

Some makers include items like TD screws, but they are not the correct ones.  If you have any questions, please feel free to PM me!

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Maybe I'm missing it, and someone can point me to it, but where is the list of the "soft" items we will need?

This list is amazing and I'm starting to gather the items now so that when the big brown box arrives I'll be ready to get started!

 

Thank you to everyone who is making this look/sound easier. I'm still concerned I'm going to screw it up, but fingers crossed with the help I find here, I'll be joining the crew on Troops soon.

 

Thanks again!

James

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