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Sterling Demilled Parts Kits


Paradox

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I was wondering what the thoughts were on buying a Sterling demilled parts kit to use as an E11 base?  The kits are demilled (include everything except the barrel and receiver tube from an original Sterling), so I'd have to get a few aluminum/resin parts along with the greeblies to complete the blaster.  But before I did, I wanted to know if anyone has done this and if it's worth it.

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Doing much more digging, I've found several posts of people using demilled kits for their blasters.  Not sure if I'm going to jump into this level of work right off the bat or if I'll just do a resin build.  I'm one of those people who want to make the best possible build - this gets me into trouble now and then. ;)

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A full metal build with a Sterling parts kit is an awesome thing, but I can tell you from experience that it isn't very practical for anything other than a display piece OR a huge hassle to get it legally registered. A steel blaster with all the trimmings weighs almost 15 pounds...definitely not suitable for trooping and event authorities won't like it one bit. If you go with a nice aluminum receiver, you'll have all kinds of trouble trying to attach steel parts securely. Best bet for an extremely accurate and troopable blaster is a CNC aluminum receiver with resin parts or a Hyperfirm. I have a strong suspicion the next version of the Phoenix Props kit will have all the detail you could ever want WITHOUT having to buy a demilled parts kit. Check with Dday.

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Great info guys, thanks so much!

I was wondering about the legalities of it too and it's just something I don't want to get into.  I've seen steel pipes with the cutting guides online and I thought, "OH PERFECT!"  Then my brain clicked and I thought, "Wait a sec... if I get one of those and mill it out and attach the demilled parts to it, it would look totally badass, but it's no longer demilled... hmmmm."

I think for my first blaster, I'm going to go full resin or a resin parts kit with aluminum receiver like you mentioned Aaron.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Greg,

 

I have actually done what you are talking about (for my first build as well, and wanted it perfect/the best in much the same way it seems like you do. Sounds like we are cut from a similar cloth, and I know how frustrating it can be to think something is just right and then realize it's not, I probably attached my mag well and rear sight 5-7 times each to get the alignment perfect), with little to no skill beforehand, though I will say I have good hand/eye coordination and can get pretty creative. If you purchase a parts kit, be prepared to strip the pieces you need. Stripping them involves using a MAPP gas or Oxy/Acetylene torch to melt the brazing that held the original parts together. I did it with MAPP gas and it takes a bit longer than the latter, but does not run the same risk of burning holes through the steel, which can happen with Oxy/Acetylene. 

 

If you want to do this, and are located within the US, APEX Gun Parts has the best deal on a parts kit for about $150. Many others go up to $300+. My reason for doing this was that I wanted the real pieces on there much like it seems you do (for purposes of weight, weathering, dings, tiny details, etc., did not want to buy a full deac Sterling (though I prob spent as much on other crap through the process, silly me), and just thought it would be cool. It is, and it is fun to do.

 

Having done this, I was able to use the real grip, bracket and trigger group, the mag well, real/functional folding stock (prob the best part of using a parts kit, though you can buy just a stock for about $45 too), the front sight, sight guard, rear sight, flash guards, bolt and real spring with compression cups and cocking lever, bayonet lug, end cap, and end cap clip. Was also able to use all the real screws and little bits like that which I think adds a really nice touch to it. You WILL NOT (most likely) be able to use the end cap lock that holds it on the actual receiver, as this is a very thin ring that must be heated evenly all around, and is very very difficult to get off. The other piece you will not be able to use most likely is the front nozzle and dovetail block to hold the front sight, but I could be wrong. Perhaps if you take the pieces to an auto body shop or welding shop they may be able to do something on these pieces also.

 

The one issue with the real spring and using a lug for the end cap to lock onto is that the lugs on kits out there are too thick for the spring to provide pressure on the end cap keeping it in place. I ended up molding my own lug in like a 5-step process that involved molding the real one, molding the inner diameter, making a mold around the inner diameter plug, casting a thin cylinder that would allow the spring through, attaching that to the lock, and molding the full piece. If you decide to go down this road, I would be happy to provide you with any resin bits that are necessary to complete the build with a parts kit. I also have a front nozzle with the block that holds the front sight properly instead of curving a sight around the tube. These two pieces and the barrel (which I made from plastic tube and cast discs to look like a real one) are the only resin/plastic pieces on my blaster. I will actually get a pic up soon as I have not painted yet and that is my last step, so you will be able to see exactly what one might look like.

 

Aaron makes a good point as well that you must consider. Aluminum and steel are dissimilar metals and will not bind together via welding, brazing, or soldering. You will need to use some damn strong epoxy to do this. As such, I would strongly recommend getting a steel tube from DDay which I believe he will be offering on the new kits (more below).

 

Having said this, DDay's kit is indeed awesome and his new one looks to be the best kit ever created. I've done one and had much interaction with him and will say he is one of the absolute best people to deal with on these forums, especially for purchasing things. He will take care of you, answer any questions promptly, and work out any issues that may arise during your wait/after you receive the kit. i.e. I had a problem with a scope about a month after receiving my kit and he sent me a replacement from Germany to the US for just shipping, no return needed and no other charge. The only caveat about buying one of his kits is that it could, possibly, take a while since he has so much demand right now and is finishing his new kit. Literally, that is THE ONLY maybe about it (unless you just want a real Sterling, obviously his kit is resin).

 

Also, Derrek (DDay) may be making a longer tube on his new kits with a lock that fits on the outside. This will not only be more realistic, but provide a larger bonding surface and improve a number of other aspects. As you might tell from what I had to do to get everything here to work, this may be the biggest improvement on an E11 kit ever done. If he pulls it off, hot damn! This being said, I would contact him about getting a tube REGARDLESS OF WHICH DIRECTION YOU GO. If you use parts, buy a tube and the lock, if you get a kit, it's all there from him.

 

 

Given I've been in the exact same situation and done both, I'm happy to answer any other questions you might have. Feel free to reach out here or in a PM.

 

Most of all, good luck whichever direction you go!

 

-Matt

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  • 4 months later...

Great topic guys. It just happens that me and my neighbors brother are working on the same project. I purchased a decommissioned Sterling at a gun Show which had to be welded back together after being put through degreaser several times. Im using my backup Hasbro wiring and sound card to be placed inside. I still have to cut the magazine to the correct size. Working on it to work as a loading compartment for AA batteries.

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