TK4205 Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 (edited) Tutorial video: Imperial Gaskets now come with a bottle of black contact cement! It is my own formula , acid free and designed to work better on these gaskets than your average rubber cement. I.G. 88 Glue directions: brush on both surfaces to be joined together, let dry for about 5-10 then press together firmly. For those of you getting my Imperial Gaskets, they go together fairly simple. Pick up a bottle of Elmers non wrinkle rubber cement and follow these directions. Trim them out like this: Brush the entire back edge with glue and let dry for 10 minutes. The latex will ripple and misshape, this goes away and reclaims its shape as it dries. Once tacky to touch, fold the edge over and stick down, finishing up your edge. Only glue the flaps on one side Glue flaps on the other side and line them up. It should look like this. I suggest sewing the gaskets to your underarmor. If you are unable to sew, you can glue in felt tabs and use safety pins. Have fun. https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=8856a29d22617556&id=8856a29d22617556%2176111&ithint=video,mp4&authkey=!AGxnrTEk_xoA26M A little vid to demonstrate durability. Latex rubber can be tricky to trim. Start with a sharp pair of scissors, pull and stretch the piece that you are trimming towards you, likr in the picture below. Edited March 3, 2021 by Sly11 Edited to restore images Sly11 2021 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plushie[TK] Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 Thanks Wyatt! I plan on buying a set of these along with a fabric set from your wife Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkrestonva[TK] Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 Excellent. I'm very much looking forward to getting a set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svache[TK] Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 Wyatt, two questions.. on the part where it says "Imperial", isn't that visible when wearing? I thought I could see the lines that are normally there when people are wearing it. Second question is about the last picture of your first post, it shows the gasket connected but it looks like the gasket is damaged or something on the top right part of the picture (it looks a bit rough)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kme1682[TK] Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 (edited) Hi, Thank you for your time investment in making these. I'll echo the note from Jeroen due to the way the shoulder can have a little gap between the shoulder bell and the back-shoulder. However, perhaps the gap will be so minimal that the advertisement won't be seen to any noticeable degree. Although, perhaps "imperial" is screen accurate; I haven't seen the movie yet, and didn't assemble the mannequins at the TFA exhibit at Celebration. A helpful note about fitting the gaskets to the wearer. I would caution an advisement for sewing the gasket to the underarmour, especially the knee gasket. Unless the sewing advisement was for the shoulders only, and I missed that point. Apologies, if so. Some of us who are lithely framed are attaching the knee gaskets to the armour itself. (Not permanently- something like Velcro- see Clint’s build for reference.) I found that the rubber knee gasket was chaffing/shredding against the ABS armour when keeping the knee gaskets close to my under-armour. If I sewed it to my underarmour, I would have a gap between the thigh and gasket, likely shin as well. It appears that a more ideal possibility for some body types is to attach it to the ABS armour and not the under-armour. Lastly, I’m a little concerned about the handwash/line-dry aspect to sewing the gaskets to the under armour. I look forward to hearing how others fare with this method. I would prefer to have my under-armour interchangeable, especially if I have a multi-day troop planned. I don’t know how long it would take to line-dry the underarmour to wear the next day. In this case, I'm assuming I’m just sewing the shoulder and possibly the elbow, pending forearm fit/gap. Again, thank you for your time and diligence with this alternative! Congrats! Warm regards, -krista Edited May 11, 2015 by kme1682 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK4205 Posted May 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 Wyatt, two questions.. on the part where it says "Imperial", isn't that visible when wearing? I thought I could see the lines that are normally there when people are wearing it. Second question is about the last picture of your first post, it shows the gasket connected but it looks like the gasket is damaged or something on the top right part of the picture (it looks a bit rough)? The top of your shoulder should not be visible. But today we do not know if shoulder bells flip up and back and forth. It's nothing to make new molds when we see what is under there. I wanted something that looked different than Dana's design. ANOVOS gaskets are a fan creation from reference as well. If you guys don't like my brand, I'll change it. It wont hurt my feelings that bad. Please be specific as to which part. Maybe it's the angle and shadow, for I see no damage upon close inspection. All I can really say is wait and see. My first order shipped today. First order. Get it? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK4205 Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Hi, Thank you for your time investment in making these. I'll echo the note from Jeroen due to the way the shoulder can have a little gap between the shoulder bell and the back-shoulder. However, perhaps the gap will be so minimal that the advertisement won't be seen to any noticeable degree. Although, perhaps "imperial" is screen accurate; I haven't seen the movie yet, and didn't assemble the mannequins at the TFA exhibit at Celebration. A helpful note about fitting the gaskets to the wearer. I would caution an advisement for sewing the gasket to the underarmour, especially the knee gasket. Unless the sewing advisement was for the shoulders only, and I missed that point. Apologies, if so. Some of us who are lithely framed are attaching the knee gaskets to the armour itself. (Not permanently- something like Velcro- see Clint’s build for reference.) I found that the rubber knee gasket was chaffing/shredding against the ABS armour when keeping the knee gaskets close to my under-armour. If I sewed it to my underarmour, I would have a gap between the thigh and gasket, likely shin as well. It appears that a more ideal possibility for some body types is to attach it to the ABS armour and not the under-armour. Lastly, I’m a little concerned about the handwash/line-dry aspect to sewing the gaskets to the under armour. I look forward to hearing how others fare with this method. I would prefer to have my under-armour interchangeable, especially if I have a multi-day troop planned. I don’t know how long it would take to line-dry the underarmour to wear the next day. In this case, I'm assuming I’m just sewing the shoulder and possibly the elbow, pending forearm fit/gap. Again, thank you for your time and diligence with this alternative! Congrats! Warm regards, -krista Yes, you may hand wash. In fact I recommend it to keep the rubber robust. Good point about the construction for thinner people. I would then suggest adding thin foam to the backs and attaching them in the same fashion as your gaskets that came with your kit. I have headliner fabric that would work quite well, It would add to the cost to have me trick them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZacMuleer[TK] Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 I found that the rubber knee gasket was chaffing/shredding against the ABS armour when keeping the knee gaskets close to my under-armour. If I sewed it to my underarmour, I would have a gap between the thigh and gasket, likely shin as well. It appears that a more ideal possibility for some body types is to attach it to the ABS armour and not the under-armour. Interesting - I would have thought the farther away from the armor the gaskets were that it would happen less. So I'm curious as to why this happens. Does the gasket have no room to flare "in" (towards the knee) so it flares "out" and get chomped up by the armor? And if this is the case, would foam behind the gasket cause the same problem? All of this coming from someone who is in the Beta150 and hasn't worn it before, but will soon! So forgive my newbie questions. It's fun learning a new costume.... feels like back before I joined the Legion and was researching TKs for the first time!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK4205 Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 As far as I can tell, this new armor doesn't fit any differently than a clone or TK. I've seen people with very skinny frames, attach padding to the joints of their TK in the manner that anovos recommends for the TFA. You gotta do what you gotta do to make it work. From what I could tell in the TFA room, is that the gaskets were extruded rubber tubes without any seams. I could do this too, but then it would be only one size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svache[TK] Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 The top of your shoulder should not be visible. But today we do not know if shoulder bells flip up and back and forth. It's nothing to make new molds when we see what is under there. I wanted something that looked different than Dana's design. ANOVOS gaskets are a fan creation from reference as well. If you guys don't like my brand, I'll change it. It wont hurt my feelings that bad. Please be specific as to which part. Maybe it's the angle and shadow, for I see no damage upon close inspection. All I can really say is wait and see. My first order shipped today. First order. Get it? Thanks for the explanation Wyatt. You're right, I'll wait and see what happens, it doesn't matter if it isn't visible, just wondered about it because I believe I saw some of those lines on the (non-Anovos) references. As for the part I meant, I circled the bit of the image that looks as if there is some damaging going on. It may be a picture, or even just dirt or anything, I have no idea really lol: And lol yeah I get it hahaha Glad to see the 'First transport is away' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK4205 Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 I see what you mean there. That is some air bubble/bumps in the pull. They don't look that rough in person though each pull has it's own little imperfections, like any home cast stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svache[TK] Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Ah ok, that explains. Glad to hear it's not an actual damage that potentially could lead to greater damages. Guess the photo made it look worse than it really is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Looking good, just need to find a glue similar in other countries Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK4205 Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Any rubber cement or contact cement will work. If you have access to acetone, you can make your own out of your rubber scraps after trimming. I am looking to buy a case of small tubes of Elmers rubber cement so I can include it in my kit. I realize that some troopers don't have access to things that others can easily obtain. Here, you can buy rubber cement pretty much anywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camprandall Posted May 13, 2015 Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 I'm excited for these to arrive! Hopefully it will totally change trooping. I will say that I'm also a little bit disappointed by the heavy branding down the outside, especially since it was only on the flap in the proto pics and now it replaces the vertical ribs. It feels like a risky accuracy divergence that might not matter, but would have been better to keep it on the flaps that are not part of the look at all. Quick question for you Wyatt - I see that you're gluing the edge of the curved flap all the way around. What is this intended for? Also, many of us riveted or glued straps across the back and chest to hold the gaskets together and keep the flaps down. With latex, what would be the preferred method here? I'm wondering if rubber cement is strong enough for the torque that comes from the gaskets being pulled on by the shoulders. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK4205 Posted May 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 FYI, my list is growing with people that don't mind the brand down the shoulder, though I will probably remove it with my next mold. Like I said, my main concern was copying ANOVOS's design enough to get a C&D from them. Quick question for you Wyatt - I see that you're gluing the edge of the curved flap all the way around. What is this intended for? Also, many of us riveted or glued straps across the back and chest to hold the gaskets together and keep the flaps down. With latex, what would be the preferred method here? I'm wondering if rubber cement is strong enough for the torque that comes from the gaskets being pulled on by the shoulders. Thanks! It's hard to cut a straight clean line on latex so the folding and gluing of the edge just finishes it up nicely. Elmers glue bonds latex almost permanently. It's what I used in my production of Cad Bane and the rubber cement has been holding for years. I could include latex straps and buckles, but it will bring my price up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK6682[TK] Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 (edited) So it does says "Imperial" down the top of the shoulder gasket when this bad boy is all put together? (... and just to make sure proper credit is given... it was KW's Design for Anovos) Edited March 3, 2021 by Sly11 Edited to restore images Sly11 2021 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camprandall Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 Looks cool! I should have some pics soon of reassembling the new gaskets. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK4205 Posted May 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=8856a29d22617556&id=8856a29d22617556%2176111&ithint=video,mp4&authkey=!AGxnrTEk_xoA26M A little vid to demonstrate durability. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camprandall Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 (edited) Wyatt, I got a password pop-up when I tried to go to your link. Ok, I finished the shoulder and elbow gaskets today. Check out my build thread for my review and build process at http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31068-clints-build-thread-tk-61281/page-5#entry404404. The short version is that 1) these gaskets are MUCH better for trooping and 2) joint gaskets are always going to make this thing a bit of a pain. Edited May 17, 2015 by camprandall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daetrin[Admin] Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 On 5/18/2015 at 7:31 AM, camprandall said: Wyatt, I got a password pop-up when I tried to go to your link. Ok, I finished the shoulder and elbow gaskets today. Check out my build thread for my review and build process at http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31068-clints-build-thread-tk-61281/page-5#entry404404. The short version is that 1) these gaskets are MUCH better for trooping and 2) joint gaskets are always going to make this thing a bit of a pain. Try this one - http://1drv.ms/1ERjS9z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK4205 Posted May 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 Try this one - http://1drv.ms/1ERjS9z or this one http://vid51.photobucket.com/albums/f386/wtatt794/ImperialGasketKeyTest_zpsh5vkhmja.mp4 Paul, could you tear the prototype at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bayani[TK] Posted May 18, 2015 Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 PM sent for 2 sets of these new latex gaskets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retnuhha[TK] Posted May 18, 2015 Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 PM sent for a set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkrestonva[TK] Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 Ok, I finished the shoulder and elbow gaskets today. Check out my build thread for my review and build process at http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31068-clints-build-thread-tk-61281/page-5#entry404404. The short version is that 1) these gaskets are MUCH better for trooping and 2) joint gaskets are always going to make this thing a bit of a pain. I assembled mine yesterday, and I agree - MUCH better. They are lighter, less bulky, and I can actually move in them. Further, the way they fit is like a wetsuit - I don't need any sort of strapping to hold the shoulders together or Velcro to keep them from coming out of the hard armor. I also like the fact that the adhesive you use is commonly available - no special glue required. Aside from the general suck of having to troop with gaskets to begin with, I could hardly be more satisfied. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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