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DarthMel

ANOVOS TFA Armor Accuracy?

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Membership isn't the question here. Accuracy is the subject that we are discussing. The who of it shouldn't even come in to play. The props that I build are not any less accurate than when I'm active on the boards. On the same token, just because you're a member, it does not necessarily mean that you have high costuming standards.

Accuracy does not speak for talent. I think many people consider this thread to be an attack on a person and his talent and feel that they must come to a persons defense but it's not personal.

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Unfortunately I am not at liberty at this time to discuss all the detail. Trust me I know what I had in my hands to work with. People at the booth might not know exactly what I had.

There will never be a more accurate kit made available like this.

 

All companies who were involved are licensed and approved by Disney / LFL for manufacturing. (Myself included)

 

Kevin W.

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I'd be interested in seeing side-by-side comparison photos of the screen used kit and the Anovos kit with the inaccuracies identified. Presumably the screen used photos would be from the mannequins on display at Celebration since there is not a lot to go one from the teaser trailers. I did not see a lot of differences when I visited the costume room, but admittedly I spent most of my time looking at the Snowtrooper and the Flametrooper.  I did notice that there were differences between the two stormtroopers on display. Wasn't sure if that was intended, accidental, or there are just minor differences from one suit to another.

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We don't even know for sure if those troopers in the TFA room were screen used, do we?

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We don't even know for sure if those troopers in the TFA room were screen used, do we?

 

Yes, friends at both Disney & LFL confirmed.

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Yes, friends at both Disney & LFL confirmed.

cool. then we have something to go on.

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The only comment I can ad is please god tell me you got the pm from EP vii to sign your tfa somewhere....

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I was sent this by another member. This was filmed at Star Wars Weekends starring what I can only assume are Disney employees. The armor doesn't fit them quite right in the back as well. I'm not saying that every trooper so far is like that but this shows that it is quit common. What do you think?

 

https://youtu.be/W1hrYoOI-gc

Edited by eagle eye
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I just ordered the Anovos TFA helmet which is injected molded. Is this a durable method?  Will this bucket stand the tests of trooping?

Edited by PatrickW1074

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Hi guys. First post other than on the intro page. I'm DEFINITELY doing a TFA TK (?) as my first set of armor. I've been waiting for over 35 years to do a set of Stormtrooper armor and I'm finally in a place where I can actually do it.<br><br>

So. Anovos. They aren't selling these yet, correct? I just signed up for the newsletter. I guess I'll go ahead and preorder a helmet since the link is up for that.<br><br>

Sound about right? Any tips for a newbie?<br><br>

Thanks,<br>

Kevin

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I was sent this by another member. This was filmed at Star Wars Weekends starring what I can only assume are Disney employees. The armor doesn't fit them quite right in the back as well. I'm not saying that every trooper so far is like that but this shows that it is quit common. What do you think?

 

Guys/gals,

 

What you fail to understand or even know, is that the suits you see in this video clip are suits made for Disney by Anovos. Now, we didn't have the actors in these suits at the shop to build them to their individual body types. They were all made to be somewhat adjustable using mainly Velcro. That is why some suits fit better than others.

 

Anovos can go to the LFL archives whenever they want, they hold a license. They can 3d scan ANYTHING. You will not get a more accurate suit unless Anovos makes a 3d printed suit...and unless you want to pay the 7-10,000 dollars for one, I would suggest everyone considers this armor accurate.

 

With that said, there are somethings people can do to make it more screen accurate. Using a sanding block to sharpen up the corners on the ab boxes, cutting the wings off the chest and reattach with abs strip and ca glue...bondo the seem. Then file a new seem line, use black fabric or a piece of black elastic belting behind the chest, biceps, and shin holes....just to name a few.

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I think in the end what would close out this thread is a simple bulleted list of things people can do to make their ANOVOS kits any more accurate than they already are. I think it's been established that these are small details, and the accuracy of the current ANOVOS suits is very, very good.

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I'll come up with a list tonight. Great idea Mr. FISD founder guy Sir!<br><br>

If I miss something, hopefully another Disney builder crew member will chime in.

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Pictures would absolutely rule, yes! <br><br>

Absolutely a great list though, and as I've very recently received my armor, I'll add that the newer pulls appear to have higher detail levels in some of the parts. I'll probably be plasti-dipping, or fiberglassing some parts to ensure durability, but some of the finer details that people were sanding to sharpen are much, much clearer now.

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I'll come up with a list tonight. Great idea Mr. FISD founder guy Sir!<br><br>

If I miss something, hopefully another Disney builder crew member will chime in.

 

Here are a few things you can do to get your vacu-formed armor a little more accurate.

Cut the holes out of the chest, chest vent, shins, and biceps. Back them with a black cloth material. 

Use a sanding block on the ab boxes, left shin boxes, and forearm squares to sharpen the edges.

Cut cut chest "wings" and reassemble using a strip of ABS or styrene on the back, realigning the two pieces to make a noticeable seam. Bondo the return edge on the top and bottom. Also, either sand out or use bondo to fill in the "shadow" seam line. It's subtle, but noticeable on most if not all chest plates...to the outside of where the seam actually is.

Biceps- Fit these as you normally would. If you need more plastic, add it during this step. Assemble using butt joints on the outside. Overlap the inside but use velcro to close it. Now, cut the seam line where the steps are, where the resin buckle gets glued. Back with ABS or styrene and realign the pieces making a nice straight seam. Leave approximately 1/8 of an inch gap. Cut out the little steps and toss that piece at your annoying cat. Replace that soft detail with some thin styrene or ABS or some modeling siding from a hobby shop. Cut to size and back the empty hole with ABS or styrene and glue in your newly made, shaper detail piece.

Use 3/8 of an inch neoprene foam under your floor mat belt. 

For the two belt boxes..10H and 10K, use plain silicone rubber with a smoothe finish as the bottom of those boxes. Keep the ABS bottoms that came with you kit for trays to keep odds and ends in. With that rubber piece, 5/8" on the outer edges and 3/8" in the middle. You will have to cut a bend in the rubber so it matches the contour of your floor mat belt. If you don't, the ends of both boxes will flair out or stick out because they are flat.

If you want to be uber accurate, use velcro to close the inside of both thighs.

Cut two notches in the top of the yolk where the shoulder bell meets it. Use a chunk of steel or sturdy aluminum in between the notches sticking out toward the shoulder bell. Metal tab should be approximately 3/4" wide, 1/16" thick and protruding from the yolk about an inch. Use two 1 inch wide straps to connect the shoulder bell to the yolk. 

I will try to get you folks some pictures soon as most of this is probably clear as mud. It is a good start though.

 

Split to new topic: 

How to make your ANOVOS kit more accurate

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32916-how-to-make-your-anovos-kit-more-accurate/

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