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Anovos TK armor preorder


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2051 replies to this topic. I need to go look and see if this is the most responded to thread. 2051 posts of... so very little.

 

I love you guys/gals.

 

And I am terrified for the day that people start receiving their kits. Our poor web server!

 

-Eric

 

I was just about to say Congratulations to all for setting a new record for the most redundant nonsense in a single topic. "Here's your sign" :laugh1:

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I think its funny people think the armor is too sharp. I think people are too use to the rotj derived armor (ATA CAP MTK AP ) and forgot what screen used armor and helmets look like. This armor will blow all of those listed outta the water in terms of accuracy. Check out the original HDPE stunt helmets, they are super SHARP. Even the RS helmets replicated in the same type of plastic are extremely sharp. And now anovos is too sharp? I gues we will see but don't forget AP uses aluminum molds aswell. If fanmade kits like AM and RT get approved, this one will have no problem when built properly.

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I think its funny people think the armor is too sharp. I think people are too use to the rotj derived armor (ATA CAP MTK AP ) and forgot what screen used armor and helmets look like. This armor will blow all of those listed outta the water in terms of accuracy. Check out the original HDPE stunt helmets, they are super SHARP. Even the RS helmets replicated in the same type of plastic are extremely sharp. And now anovos is too sharp? I gues we will see but don't forget AP uses aluminum molds aswell. If fanmade kits like AM and RT get approved, this one will have no problem when built properly.

I think you are forgetting that CAP, MTK etc are all recasts of ROTJ derived armour Not second generation casts of actual screen used armour.

I have not forgotten what screen used armour looked like. There's sharp and there's overly sharp. Two different things. I'm not saying the originals didn't want to be this sharp and I'm sure if they had used cnc'd aluminium moulds and had modern power vacuum formers the originals would have looked like this. But they didn't and that's my point. Are you sure AP moulds are machines aluminium and not cold cast aluminium filled epoxy? I use aluminium filled epoxy as I just would not be able to afford machined tools. They are incredibly expensive and not usually viable unless doing commercial factory volume Vac forming.

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Just for kicks this morning i compared my RS lid with all its awesome bumps and wables to a the recent instagram pic of this new helmet hidding behing bb-8.did it on my flatscreen just to to get to size.<br>

Yeah its a bit sharper amd all those bumps and grizzle are gone. But its not end all be all. The difference until i actualy get my kit, is negligable.sanatized for sure..but over done or too generic? I dont think so.

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I've noticed a lot of talk about modifying the belt to meet stunt requirements.  I wondered how many have thought about leaving the belt alone and modifying the helmet to meet hero requirements.  I know you'd have to remove and fill in a screw on each ear and fill in one spot on each side of the frown.  Is there much more I'm missing?

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To make the stunt helmet into a hero helmet, you have to replace the ears with ones with 3 bumps, so the one less screw is taken care of with new ears. You have to fill in one tooth, and repaint the whole frown smaller. You have to replace the lenses with bubbled lenses (which is where I stopped with my kit) and then you have to reform the whole thing to have a wider base that makes it look like the plastic was still pliable when it was pulled off the mold.  (:

 

It's waaaaay cheaper and easier to replace the cloth belt.  (:

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It will be really interesting to see who will get a tracking number first. That person will probably tease the rest of us. Lol.

 

I'm not worried about have to change the belt if it's not mor complicated than that. I'm happy.

 

Skickat från min HTC One_M8 via Tapatalk

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For the belt is there a possibility we would be able to drill out the rivets on the top two and then be good for approval?

 

I know a trooper who accidentally riveted their belt with top and bottom and prior to approval was corrected on this issue.  They drilled out the top two rivets and were approved that way.  Is there a possibility this could be done with the Anovos belt thereby saving the need to buy a new one?  Legitimately curious about the finer details of this question.

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For the belt is there a possibility we would be able to drill out the rivets on the top two and then be good for approval?

 

I know a trooper who accidentally riveted their belt with top and bottom and prior to approval was corrected on this issue.  They drilled out the top two rivets and were approved that way.  Is there a possibility this could be done with the Anovos belt thereby saving the need to buy a new one?  Legitimately curious about the finer details of this question.

 

I'm assuming this will be the case. I'm one of many who ordered the armor and also hoping they either remedied our concerns about this prior to shipment or at least made it easy to convert. I for one won't have any issue with the modification as long as the belt is not trashed in the process. In my very first build I pulled a rookie move placing the belt & screws in the wrong position. I simply cut 1/4" off the end of the belt cloth and used some of the fabric to cover the hole. To this day you can barely tell there was a hole.

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Is there a prize for the first person to post proof of a tracking number? I mean other than a large amount of grief from those of us further down the list.

 

You'll get the YOO HOO! award  ;)

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So long as its just a punched hole I can't see how you couldn't just drill out the rivet. Question is if you do need a new canvas belt, what glue was used for the rivet caps and can you salvage the plastic part or is that no good either.

 

edit: maybe "built belt" just means the holster and belt are attached, not the plastics. I'm going to stop guessing now.

Edited by themaninthesuitcase
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So long as its just a punched hole I can't see how you couldn't just drill out the rivet. Question is if you do need a new canvas belt, what glue was used for the rivet caps and can you salvage the plastic part or is that no good either.

 

edit: maybe "built belt" just means the holster and belt are attached, not the plastics. I'm going to stop guessing now.

 

Like with everything else, until these things are in our hands it's all speculation. Let tomorrow worry about itself.

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2051 replies to this topic. I need to go look and see if this is the most responded to thread. 2051 posts of... so very little.

 

I love you guys/gals.

 

And I am terrified for the day that people start receiving their kits. Our poor web server!

 

-Eric

Just be thankful there's no build thread for each post here... Lol
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I think you are forgetting that CAP, MTK etc are all recasts of ROTJ derived armour Not second generation casts of actual screen used armour.

I have not forgotten what screen used armour looked like. There's sharp and there's overly sharp. Two different things. I'm not saying the originals didn't want to be this sharp and I'm sure if they had used cnc'd aluminium moulds and had modern power vacuum formers the originals would have looked like this. But they didn't and that's my point. Are you sure AP moulds are machines aluminium and not cold cast aluminium filled epoxy? I use aluminium filled epoxy as I just would not be able to afford machined tools. They are incredibly expensive and not usually viable unless doing commercial factory volume Vac forming.

 

Which Is exactly what I said, did you read my post correctly? I said people are to use to RPTJ derived armor (ATA CAP MTK AP) and you corrected me saying the exact same thing I said. They are ROTJ armor derived. People are too use to that look and forget what screen accurate looks like. I'm not sure about the AP molds maybe I'm wrong on that but I know I was correct about ROTJ derived armor. So no point in correcting me.

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Which Is exactly what I said, did you read my post correctly? I said people are to use to RPTJ derived armor (ATA CAP MTK AP) and you corrected me saying the exact same thing I said. They are ROTJ armor derived. People are too use to that look and forget what screen accurate looks like. I'm not sure about the AP molds maybe I'm wrong on that but I know I was correct about ROTJ derived armor. So no point in correcting me.

Never mind. If you read my post again you might understand it. I Do what I'm talking about.

You are misunderstanding my point. What I was trying to say is that you had given examples of makers that have totally reworked their moulds to look ANH. Some of which recast other armour and agian reworked those moulds so...... They cannot be used as an example of soft ROTJ derived armour. Once something is recast, retooled, sharpened up and reverse engineered to be something else it is no longer what it came from. AP armour derives from a Esb mkii if I'm not mistaken and all the others you mentioned are recasts of retooled reverse engineered armour.

Edited by sskunky
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BTW the moment the first armor hits the porch I'll be on vacation, peace out   :peace:

 

JK  ;)

 

Please arrive March 1... please arrive March 1.. .please arrive March 1.

 

I will post web stats about a month or so after the first wave hits. Their has already been a huge uptick in site usage this winter. It was already on the rise since Celebration.

 

-Eric

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For the belt is there a possibility we would be able to drill out the rivets on the top two and then be good for approval?

 

I know a trooper who accidentally riveted their belt with top and bottom and prior to approval was corrected on this issue.  They drilled out the top two rivets and were approved that way.  Is there a possibility this could be done with the Anovos belt thereby saving the need to buy a new one?  Legitimately curious about the finer details of this question.

The pictures that Anovos has released of their belt setups look like Chicago Screws holding the holster on... they're super easy to remove!  Unscrew the screws from the inside, and everything comes apart.  No drilling required!  So, assuming they were good about how they opened up the holes in the cloth belt, it should be really easy to hide that there were ever holes there to begin with.  But we won't see that until someone gets their hands on a kit and makes the first modification.

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The pictures that Anovos has released of their belt setups look like Chicago Screws holding the holster on... they're super easy to remove! Unscrew the screws from the inside, and everything comes apart. No drilling required! So, assuming they were good about how they opened up the holes in the cloth belt, it should be really easy to hide that there were ever holes there to begin with. But we won't see that until someone gets their hands on a kit and makes the first modification.

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