TK4205 Posted October 29, 2006 Report Share Posted October 29, 2006 When I built my first set of armor (FX) I wasn't aware that there was a club. I had heard of the 501st but didn't have or know a computer at the time. So I bought a kit and put it together without any tutorial or suport. I salute those who have done the same. To all the others, a little something that would have came in handy when I did my first TK. I use a small bottle of propane and torch attatchment, both of which can be obtained at walmart. When heating plastitic, crank the torch all the way up. keep plastic about 7 inches from your flame. Be patient. It will take 3 to 4 minutes before your plastic starts to soften. Once you achieve the consitency you want, you need to work verry fast before it cools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK8280 Posted October 29, 2006 Report Share Posted October 29, 2006 TK4205 said: When I built my first set of armor (FX) I wasn't aware that there was a club. I had heard of the 501st but didn't have or know a computer at the time. So I bought a kit and put it together without any tutorial or suport. I salute those who have done the same. To all the others, a little something that would have came in handy when I did my first TK. I use a small bottle of propane and torch attatchment, both of which can be obtained at walmart. When heating plastitic, crank the torch all the way up. keep plastic about 7 inches from your flame. Be patient. It will take 3 to 4 minutes before your plastic starts to soften. Once you achieve the consitency you want, you need to work verry fast before it cools. It looks great! yeah, when I got my armor I had no help also...but I did read about warming the plastic to get a more form fit, unfortunately at the time I didn?t have the money for a torch (Spent it all on the armor) so I used one of my stove stop burners...I ended up over heating the plastic and subsequently warping it ...But it was the bottom part of my left thigh piece, so the messed up part could be concealed by the left calve piece plate...oh well, lessoned learned I guess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trooperdad Posted October 30, 2006 Report Share Posted October 30, 2006 I used a commercial heating gun I used to strip paint, but you need to be very careful. Mine has 2 settings, hot and very hot! I tried using it to better form some of my FX armor, but it usually heated up too fast and then got too droopy and it took some quick semi-burnt fingers to get it looking somewhat what I started out with. I'd rather not use a torch, but this is the first decent explanation, and based on the pictorial results, on the subject. Your work looks great--maybe you have more patience than me. Don G. TK-5372 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD2802[501st] Posted October 30, 2006 Report Share Posted October 30, 2006 I've also used a heat gun with some success when I wanted to reshape my ab piece. Go gradual at about 8" minimum distance to avoid warping being careful not to overheat any one spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK4205 Posted October 31, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2006 I made myself a little tool that comes in handy. It's made out of wood. I sanded it smothe so the plastic wont pic up any grain. I just heat my strip and stamp it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smitty Posted November 14, 2007 Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 I believe this question sorta falls under this category. Im tossing around the idea of building a vac-table and have question about the ABS sheets. The stuff I have found so far is gloss white, slick on one side and a slight texture on the other. I was hoping to find slick on both sides, but haven't so far. If thats all there is out there, would I just have to make sure that the textured side is the side that actually touches my molds, leaving the slick side as my visible exterior? I'm assuming in that situation the texture would flatten against my mold and become slick. Anyone...anyone...Beuler? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SethB6025[501st] Posted November 14, 2007 Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 You need to find smooth/smooth if you want to form it. You will also need to use a vacuum pump and pressure tank. Expect to spend $500-$1000 & a reasonable amount of time to get it together. Don't try to pull ABS with a shop vac, it won't turn out. Also, if you form with smooth/textured the texture will show through to the smooth side. You can pull HIPS on a shop vac, but don't go any thicker than .080. IF you want to read up on forming visit www.tk560.com, there is a nice board there dedicated to vac-forming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smitty Posted November 15, 2007 Report Share Posted November 15, 2007 thanks bro, I was afraid that the texture would show through on the outside. This confirms my worries. Im looking at a 6HP shopvac at the pawn shop. Willing to give it a go anyway tho. But much later down the line. I have to get my own suit together first. I want to try to modify the FX body armor into Dark Trooper armor as featured in the Battlefront game. That is such a pimp trooper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-9805 Posted November 23, 2007 Report Share Posted November 23, 2007 Hey Smitty! Lemme know when you get started on building the Dark Trooper armor. I've only seen one. It be be a nice addition to the FISB! Keep us updated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smitty Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 I now have a vac pump. I gotta get away from blasters long enuff to start building the table. It pulls 18" right now but If I disassemble and clean it, it should pull 27" acoording to the web site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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