kafer1964 Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 Hello all, I have been on this website quite a few times in preparation for my NH AP Stunt build. I purchased the box of armor from a fellow 501st member near me that is moving onto the Imperial Guard. The helmet already has holes drilled and rivets on the top part of the helmet. I did have a question about this on the top of this forum but will continue my build here. The rest of the armor is as it was delivered a few years ago from AP. I have already noted the helmet is small and I will be trimming off the bottom to get my head in there. Really I don't want to have to put it on sideways and screw it on if I can help it. I really wanted a helmet with fans, hearing amplification and hovi speakers in it, so I hope this has the room. If I can get EIB with this setup that would be great. If not that is OK, I just want to look pretty good. I have already received a E-11 kit from Derek in Germany, ready to be assembled and with an aluminum barrel to boot. I am ordering boots from LiquidSoftChewie and already have the neck stock, and under garments. I will send a picture of the box-o-armor, here is the helmet. Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tusken RTT Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 Good deal, keep the pics coming! I sure would hold off before you cut so much out of the bottom of the helmet. Turning it to put it on is tradition! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sly11[Admin] Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 (edited) There is no reason why you can't aim for the top, and go Centurion with an AP kit. You do however need to replace a few bits. The Hovi mic tips supplied are tap aerators. pM Sskunky from CFO, his are fantastic . S trim for base of helmet , go to Trooperbay for that. Backs for your drop boxes, sorry can't remember where I got mine from. I love my AP armour fits me well, so if you aim for Centurion from the start of your build, it is easier than you might think to achieve. Have a look at my armour build at the bottom of my post, and check out as many AP, EIB and Centurion applications and builds as you can, it all helps. Here if you need me Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Edited March 24, 2015 by Sly11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutter[TK] Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 I'm pretty sure the only way you can put the helmet on is sideways. I agree with Andrew, shoot for Centurion, it's easier than you think and absolutely worth it! And you have a ton of Troopers willing to help if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HansDC[TK] Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 Don't cut the bottom of your helmet! Every TK has to screw their bucket on. Just the way it is. By trimming the bottom off your helmet you will lose the overall esthetic of the bucket. You also lose prime real estate for your electronics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kafer1964 Posted March 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 Don't cut the bottom of your helmet! Every TK has to screw their bucket on. Just the way it is. By trimming the bottom off your helmet you will lose the overall esthetic of the bucket. You also lose prime real estate for your electronics. Roger that, I will just trim to allow the neck seal to run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaps[TK] Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 (edited) You can trim just enough that you aren't scratching the heck out of your face and ears when screwing the helmet on/off. But also keep in mind you'll have s-trim going around. Edited March 24, 2015 by Snaps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kafer1964 Posted April 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 This is a great website to see original ANH helmets for the style and painting. Wish I had one! http://starwarshelmets.com/original-ANH-Stunt-Stormtrooper-armor-helmets.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kafer1964 Posted April 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 Here is a question I have grappled with a little. If I am building a ANH Stunt helmet, really shouldn't I paint it white to make it authentic? Meaning, Stunts were painted, Hero's were ABS and not painted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted April 7, 2015 Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 Here is a question I have grappled with a little. If I am building a ANH Stunt helmet, really shouldn't I paint it white to make it authentic? Meaning, Stunts were painted, Hero's were ABS and not painted.Overkill. If you are concerned with minute detail like that you've started with the wrong maker and material of helmet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kafer1964 Posted April 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 Overkill. If you are concerned with minute detail like that you've started with the wrong maker and material of helmet. I wondered if it was overkill. The good thing about FISD is there is a wealth of information posted and discussed. The bad thing is the volume of it. Sometimes searches are like sifting through chaff for the wheat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted April 7, 2015 Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 If you wonder about painting it white for accuracy, before doing that you would have to paint it first in a khaki color, then primer it with a chocolate color and only after that paint it white. As Locitus says, this sounds quite overkilling for an AP helmet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kafer1964 Posted April 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 I think I will paint the rest of it by hand, the cheek stripes and everything else. One thing I noticed was there is a certain way the tube stripes dip in the front. Did it vary much on helmets that were made for the sets? Any warnings on painting before I start? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dday[501st] Posted April 7, 2015 Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 I think I will paint the rest of it by hand, the cheek stripes and everything else. One thing I noticed was there is a certain way the tube stripes dip in the front. Did it vary much on helmets that were made for the sets? Any warnings on painting before I start? You are right, the tube stripes will dip a bit, either towards the top of the bottom. They did vary a bit from helmet to helmet and it's best to go into the gallery here and check some of the stunt helmets to find one that you'd like to try and replicate. I found on the stunts I looked at, the dip was on the bottom but on the heros it was on the top. So I'm pretty sure it was very random from one to the next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted April 7, 2015 Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 Looking great Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kafer1964 Posted August 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 I started my forearms yesterday and came across difficulty when I was trying to finish glueing the forearms together. Pushing the forearms together was practically pulling the other side apart. I used lots of clamps and painters tape to hold it together but it may have some gaps. Question is, is this due to the lack of trimming on the ends that adds stiffness to the parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 How are you gluing them together? Are you doing butt joins and using an inner strip? While an inner strip isn't necessary, it makes it a lot easier to line parts up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kafer1964 Posted August 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 How are you gluing them together? Are you doing butt joins and using an inner strip? While an inner strip isn't necessary, it makes it a lot easier to line parts up. No inner strips, I was following TrooperBay's video and didn't add them. I am using E6000 until my Zap a Gap gets in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kafer1964 Posted August 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 I am going to hit this with super glue and some C clamps and see if I can get it to lay down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 I would highly advice you don't use zap a gap unless you're 100% you know what you're doing. While it's not impossible to remove pieces bonded with zap, it is a pain in the butt and can lead to damages if you have to remove something. Are you using E6000 to glue one side, let it cure for 24 hours then doing the other size? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kafer1964 Posted August 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 That was an issue, I did 12 hours not 24. Here are some of the gaps, one side I took apart to try again. Forearm Gap by Lee Bryant, on Flickr Forearm Gap 2 by Lee Bryant, on Flickr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Make sure you're using plenty of clamps and magnets. Another tip is to sand both surfaces a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bzb Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Yep, they do that. When you put that straight, thicker cover strip on, the pieces want to flatten out. Just gotta be careful when you wrench it around and glue it up on the other side. I tend to agree, E6 is gonna be the way to go for a first time build... but we'll take care of it soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryth_[501st] Posted August 12, 2015 Report Share Posted August 12, 2015 Looks like you need more magnets and maybe bigger clamp on the ends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kafer1964 Posted August 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 Looks like you need more magnets and maybe bigger clamp on the ends. I am over clamping now if that is a term. I am also going to use Zap a Gap and the kicker from here on out. I am careful to check alignment now, and also fit. I did the forearms and biceps without checking them for fit first, they are a bit snug for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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