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Whats inside your bucket?


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On 8/8/2015 at 10:30 AM, Darth Havoc said:

Need some help with my lenses. I used trooperbays tutorial but it gouges the bridge of my nose at times. How did the above pics mount the lenses separately instead of one full piece. Any help is appreciated

I went with a single lense application for mine. I first made a template to show exactly where the eye openings laid. Then I cut down the lense to fit like a bandit mask. This is where you can cut out the groove or notch to allow for your nose to fit in. I then cut a piece of vinyl to cover the visible (from inside bucket) side. The backside (touching helmet) is where I used Velcro along the top side to attach to helmet.

Having it only attached at the top allows the bottom side to help circulate airflow and avoid fogging.

tF6pEZF.jpg

mYLHsBe.jpg

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I'm thinking I should start my own thread instead of continually highjacking this one...

One more update.  I'l start a new thread next time.  I'm just back from using the vacuformer tonight.

Nice machine - UK designed Formech 686.  I wish I could afford one of these for my shop!

 

Anyway, I tried several different molds, three different types of plastic, and several temperature/time combinations.

My primary mold is my design.  The secondary mold is a version of the Master Replicas piece with my own modifications.

 

Here are a couple of pulls directly out of the vacuformer (still hot!!):

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Then, I identified a major problem with my primary mold...

I had a couple SLIGHT undercuts, which I didn't think would be a problem until the mold got stuck inside a pull.

That particular pull came out BEAUTIFUL (2nd picture) because I used thinner plastic to pick up more detail.

The thinner plastic pulled too far into the undercuts and locked the mold inside the plastic.

I had to get the mold out, SOOOO.... I had to cut and rip the plastic apart.

 

PG-13....Here's the carnage (same pull as the second picture) after CA glue repairs and addition of a brushed aluminum shield I fabricated:

--------------

 

LOL, a little filler and some paint might hide the damage?

 

So here's the plan:  I'm going to eliminate the undercuts and make slight modifications to the angles in my mold.

Then, using my Frankenstein pull, I'll start figuring out how to trim these to fit inside my helmet. 

It's like trimming ears, but more complicated and INSIDE the helmet.

I'll probably disassemble and remove the faceplate to get a better view.

Hopefully, I can come up with a decent "generic" fit that can be easily transferred to all the pulls with pencil.

As a backup, I could add "welting" around the edge that touches the faceplate to hide any gaps.

 

If I sell these, I could do preliminary trimming, but still leave enough plastic for custom fitting.

Thoughts?

Edited by gmrhodes13
link not working, removed gmrhodes13 2020
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Thoughts... yes let's start a new thread for this, link it here.

 

Besides these pulls looking AWESOME! :th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:  I would suggest the following....

 

Assuming the corrugated type bumps on the flat sections is where the air is drawn through, to make the trim line cleaner and more identifiable you might want to either extend the molds with some type of secondary edge (trim line) or elevate them so that the corrugated section does not extend beyond the, to be, trim section. Hope I'm being clear here.

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Thanks Tony!  Yep, the edge bumps are exactly what you said - artifacts of the mesh in the vacuformer.  The trim line will be above that - in some cases, like near the nose, significantly above - almost to the top!  I'll work on a preliminary trim this afternoon and post another picture.  Yeah, it looks pretty ragged at the bottom.  That's the kind of input I was looking for!

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/14/2015 at 10:11 PM, Jedisaber said:

Here is the post I was talking about from TK4205. This is SICK!

 

 

 

I'm glad we don't see the inside of a bucket in the movie. It gives us all creative license to do what we want in our own bucket.

 

 

Oh my! This is awesome! Thanks for the researching and share it!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Here is the inner life of my helmet:

 

Sources:

Helmet: Troopermaster

Sound Module: Rom/Fx Classic Kit

Speakers: ukswrath mic tip speakers

Padding: 7 Condor II Helmet Pads

 

Mouting:

The rom/fx module and the classic kit microphone are mounted with gaffa tape.

The battery boxes as well as the cables are mounted with velcro to enable a stressless battery change.

As the 8 AA batteries cause an imbalance I mounted 2 iron nut weights as counterbalance under the lenses with velcro.

The mic tip speakers are mounted with the arranged plastic screws. The screws have channels for the audio cables.

For a comfortable fitting 7 Condor II helmet pads are mounted with velcro.

 

21280208021_4df39e5569_c.jpg

 

20649434574_62b2d35683_c.jpg

 

A bigger size of the pictures you can find on my flickr account: https://www.flickr.com/photos/117982333@N07/

Edited by StarWarsTom
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I almost got a Hytechtoyz voice changer for $80, but I think Im just going to save up and do the same setup as yours Tom, looks like a $200 system. I like it...

 

Just let me know when your ready Dan  :duim:

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What do people use to cover the back of the hovi mic tips? Do people make molds or are the covers available from hobby shops/ retailers? I am trying to cram a lot into my lid but I also want to have as clean a look as possible.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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What do people use to cover the back of the hovi mic tips? Do people make molds or are the covers available from hobby shops/ retailers? I am trying to cram a lot into my lid but I also want to have as clean a look as possible.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Standard Hovi tips (purchased here on whitearmor) should come with a base and a mounting post or you can glue them directly to the helmet and discard the post.

 

Hope I answered your question.

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Hey Jason what specifically are you having problems with? details brother.

 

Hey Tony, I've got this super thin lens from TB I cannot for the life of me see how it's supposed to get mounted.. Someone told me tape.. tried that it looks terrible.. Its so thin I cant use screws or rivets.. not sure what to do that and the fans are my last 2 pieces to finish my helmet.. ( at least until I can afford a Comm system like yours)

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Hey Tony, I've got this super thin lens from TB I cannot for the life of me see how it's supposed to get mounted.. Someone told me tape.. tried that it looks terrible.. Its so thin I cant use screws or rivets.. not sure what to do that and the fans are my last 2 pieces to finish my helmet.. ( at least until I can afford a Comm system like yours)

 

As for the lens some of us use the ear screws to mount the ends of the lens material.

 

Others install small mounts with screw holes, one on each corner or the eyes, six in total.

 

Here's a few photos.

 

images.jpg39421_original.jpg664752_369337903150364_2004840643_o.jpgIMG_4192.jpgICNHelmetInterior005.jpg

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On 9/26/2015 at 9:03 AM, ukswrath said:

As for the lens some of us use the ear screws to mount the ends of the lens material.

 

Others install small mounts with screw holes, one on each corner or the eyes, six in total.

 

 

 

 

My film is like super thin mirrored window tint.. there is no way in hell you could do that with it.. It needs some stiffness..

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