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AM 2.0 Questions


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Hey guys, I've been helping two of our new recruits build their TKs.  Both got the AM 2.0 kit.

 

I made my first TK back in '06 as an old FX (I know I know hahaha).  Over the years I made a few AM version one kits for guys but this is my first dealing with the 2.0 kit.  I did a ton of research here with them on building this armor (and the new standards) and as we get closer to finishing we have a few questions.  I figured I'd start this thread as a place to throw them up for tips

 

1)  Shoulder bridges - where exactly are they supposed to sit on the 2.0 kits?  The chest has that angle where it looks like they would be to sit evenly, and it's also thinner then the bridges.  We shaved them down a little, but before we go any further anyone have some advice?  Here is how they are lining up right now (unglued)

 

100_9796_zpska2oqvqh.jpg

 

100_9797_zpshnilcwav.jpg

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Thanks for this post, Terry!  I am toward the end of my AM 2.0 build, and this is one of the last things I have to do, so if anyone can help, THANKS!

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No worries Joseph, feel free to throw in any questions you have here as well I won't feel hijacked and we'll help each other out!

 

Another question just came up:

 

We're using the hardware that came with the kit, I'm assuming for the belt we use the small, rounded screws with locknuts?

 

100_9798_zpsp2fjdj28.jpg

 

We planned on using the flat covers as opposed to those stacked rounded ones, but the plastic doesn't make it flush to the belt?

 

100_9799_zpsm3rpp1eb.jpg

 

We're working for another hour or so then later tonight I'll do some independent research here, but if anyone has quick advice we appreciate it!  Thanks!

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The small rounded screws are technically for the other ab button plate.

 

If you used them for the belt-canvas attachment, and they become loose over time, you may run into issues with tightening them, depending on how your glue the rivet squares on the front of the plastic belt.

 

What I did was rivet snaps, using 2 washers plus the snap on the inside of the plastic, and then marked corresponding snaps on the canvas, that way my plastic belt is completely removable from my canvas belt

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The small rounded screws are technically for the other ab button plate.

 

If you used them for the belt-canvas attachment, and they become loose over time, you may run into issues with tightening them, depending on how your glue the rivet squares on the front of the plastic belt.

 

What I did was rivet snaps, using 2 washers plus the snap on the inside of the plastic, and then marked corresponding snaps on the canvas, that way my plastic belt is completely removable from my canvas belt

Ahhhh that makes sense!  I totally forgot those would be for the other ab plate, we're using the paint one thanks!

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This is the last piece in my puzzle.  All is complete except for these danged shoulder straps!  Shooting for Centurion here, so they have to be perfect...

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We ended up just gluing the shoulder bridges, they seem to be fine even though there is a little space in the front lol...

 

Belt worked out fine with the rivets.

 

New question:

 

The bucket I just made on our second member's kit seems to have a little lopsidedness, like it's raising it's eyebrow lmao!

 

297A26B8-2FAD-4579-BEE8-7F54B38E9E93_zps

 

I used the already supplied screw bumps and everything lined up okay.  Is that natural for the helmet or do I need to glue it or am I missing something?  Thanks!

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I think all AM kits have that issue, at least many people complain of this. I simply forced it in place while I adjusted other things and it ended up straight in the end. I also did NOT use all the recommended locations because holding it straight changed them.

 

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Sent from a galaxy far far away

Edited by gmrhodes13
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Take it apart and redo it is my suggestion. And don't hot glue the lenses like that. The glue seeping out of the sockets is quite visible, and you don't want it to be air tight anyway, as some important ventilation takes place through the eye sockets.

 

I also recommend trimming down the ears more. They look really, really fat compared to what it's supposed to be like.

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Hey Bro...

 

I have this helmet too and what I did to get the look I wanted was to shim above the faceplate under the brow.

 

I folded over some elastic to about 1/4 inch and stuffed up there.

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As for the eyes... I mounted mine in a different way. I'll have to take apart the helmet to show you. I'll try to get some pics to you.

 

 

@ Locitus... My ears are thick too. I'll have to shave them down more when I have time.

Edited by gmrhodes13
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@ Locitus... My ears are thick too. I'll have to shave them down more when I have time.

And finish painting the rest of your helmet I hope. ;)

 

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

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Take it apart and redo it is my suggestion. And don't hot glue the lenses like that. The glue seeping out of the sockets is quite visible, and you don't want it to be air tight anyway, as some important ventilation takes place through the eye sockets.

 

I also recommend trimming down the ears more. They look really, really fat compared to what it's supposed to be like.

 

Thanks!  The screws are only a little more then hand tight because I wasn't happy with the way it was sitting, lol, so I can definitely do that.  

 

And yeah, the hot glue seeped out as I put it on and I noticed that.  There is enough visor material for redo I figured I'd get the sit fixed first then go back and address that.  What do you guys do to attach them besides hot glue then?  I saw one thread where a guy made a stack of plastic to glue it (or screw it) on so you didn't have to actually try and lock it in on the eye holes.  Or use a different glue?

 

And we can trim the ears no problem, he's coming by Saturday to work on it I was off today so getting a little head start :)

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That helmet would be great for "The Rock" though with that brow raised haha

 

 

Sent from a galaxy far far away

That is exactly what I thought when I looked at it!!  The people's eyebrow....

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If you have one of the long strips of lens material you can attach it on each side using the ear screws. If not, I recommend getting one. You can cut it out from a cheap welding face screen or buy it per cut on trooperbay for example.

 

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

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On 3/19/2015 at 9:44 AM, Navajo Bro said:

I saw one thread where a guy made a stack of plastic to glue it (or screw it) on so you didn't have to actually try and lock it in on the eye holes. Or use a different glue?

 

I used epoxy putty instead of shims. Before it fully cured I drilled pilot holes into the "blobs" of putty. I then screwed my lens in.

 

The blobs may by hard to see because they are painted black. I used the acetate film that came with the helmet until I can find a thicker green lens.

 

 

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Edited by gmrhodes13
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Here's a quick question - what is the preferred size lengthwise of the TD?  I've found a few different threads with a range, the tube that came with the kit looks like this (not glued this is just held on for pic)

 

100_9899_zpsswngpdqf.jpg

 

Do we need to trim it down a little or will it be fine as is?  Thanks!

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