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Hondutrooper's AM 2.0 Build


hondutrooper

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Installed the lens.  Used black Sugru around certain parts of the eye to create a spot to glue the lens to.

 

LENS_zpsovn9vfnw.jpg

 

Glued the cap to the back of the helmet.  This was the first time using the glue on the build - a little nervous but it went well.  One thing I do know for sure is that I need more magnets - 80 more on the way - yay AMAZON!

 

BACK%20AND%20CAP_zpsqnsgodmk.jpg

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:duim:  looks good!

 

also, the paint will never be perfect and it shouldn't!

 

If you look at the screen shots of the movie, every TK is different and has it's own quirks....that's what makes it TK! :D

 

Keep up the good work!

Thanks for the words of encouragement.  Sometimes I get frustrated and overwhelmed and feel like I have no clue what I am doing. I guess most newbies feel the same way.   :)

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Thanks for the words of encouragement.  Sometimes I get frustrated and overwhelmed and feel like I have no clue what I am doing. I guess most newbies feel the same way.   :)

 

Newbies, heck even veterans get frustrated and overwhelmed. I'm waiting for my new TFA to arrive and I'm getting butterflies just thinking of the build  :laugh1: 

You're in the right place Victor, we're all in this together.   :jc_doublethumbup:

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The lens didn't stick well and I have to redo this part. I don't think I had enough weight/pressure on the lens so trying to adjust. Hope for better results this time around.

 

Question - can I use decals for approval or should I use paint?

 

DECALS_zpsu9muy9rx.jpg

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The lens didn't stick well and I have to redo this part. I don't think I had enough weight/pressure on the lens so trying to adjust. Hope for better results this time around.

 

Question - can I use decals for approval or should I use paint?

 

DECALS_zpsu9muy9rx.jpg

 

Decals are fine for basic and EIB, Centurion will require paint or decals that emulate paint.

 

Edit: I'm sorry my response was a bit vague, visit the CRL and look at the helmet section - 

http://www.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt

Edited by ukswrath
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Decals are fine for basic and EIB, Centurion will require paint or decals that emulate paint.

 

Edit: I'm sorry my response was a bit vague, visit the CRL and look at the helmet section - 

http://www.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt

Thanks for the response! Currently looking for basic approval and then I'll worry about EIB and Centurion.

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Victor, if you will be (hopefully) shooting for EIB or Centurion, I would consider getting some templates from Trooperbay.  The ones that came with you AM kit are fine for basic approval, and can be removed at a later time.  If you do decide to use the templates, I can give you a handy hint that I learned on here...  After you get them in the right position, go over them with a (light) coat of WHITE paint first.  What this will do is seal the edges, prevent the desired color from bleeding around the edges, and give you clean, crisp lines.  Just remember to let it (the white) dry for a few minutes before applying the desired color, and do not leave the template on too long, or it may peel up whatever paint you have applied.  Sounds tricky but it's not, I promise.  If I remember correctly they send you a couple of sets, so you can practice on some spare ABS.  Hope this helps!  On a side note:  EIGHTY magnets???   Good Heavens, I hope there's no one in your neighborhood with a pacemaker!  LOL

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Victor, if you will be (hopefully) shooting for EIB or Centurion, I would consider getting some templates from Trooperbay.  The ones that came with you AM kit are fine for basic approval, and can be removed at a later time.  If you do decide to use the templates, I can give you a handy hint that I learned on here...  After you get them in the right position, go over them with a (light) coat of WHITE paint first.  What this will do is seal the edges, prevent the desired color from bleeding around the edges, and give you clean, crisp lines.  Just remember to let it (the white) dry for a few minutes before applying the desired color, and do not leave the template on too long, or it may peel up whatever paint you have applied.  Sounds tricky but it's not, I promise.  If I remember correctly they send you a couple of sets, so you can practice on some spare ABS.  Hope this helps!  On a side note:  EIGHTY magnets???   Good Heavens, I hope there's no one in your neighborhood with a pacemaker!  LOL

I'll go with the decals for now.  Need to get more confident which will happen as I get more experience with my build.  Will eventually try for EIB and Centurion.  I'll keep the white paint tip in mind for the future.

 

80 small magnets - nothing that can cause any harm...I don't think  ;)

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  • 3 months later...

OK so it's been a while...but I've made some progress.

 

Shoulder bells - glued black elastic

Biceps - trimmed and glued cover strips

Arms - trimmed and glued cover strips

Helmet - mostly done with the outside, need to put tube stipes decal, paint the ears and attach the s-trim.

 

Some questions on the helmet:

 

  1. Is the brow supposed to be glued? I didn't and it's pretty secure and not moving
  2. Do I need to paint the mic tips white on the inside?
  3. Left and right ear have a small gap and are not completely flush...what's the tolerance needed for approval?

 

HELMET1_zpsxlfi60tl.jpg

 

VOCODERANDMICTIPS_zpst0uth6hg.jpg

 

FROWN_zpsynsrtika.jpg

 

LEFTEAR1_zpsuyutime2.jpg

 

RIGHTEAR_zps0r5oznxv.jpg

 

LENS_zpswhpa0z1e.jpg

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Going to work on the chest/back next...more questions:

 

I cut about 1" from the top part of the chest plate on the shoulder straps.  Is there a specific length they should extend out?  Is there a specific gap distance that should be kept between chest and back?  I'll be glueing white elastic between the chest and the back.

 

65ac1824-73f1-4de0-90b5-d558e901623d_zps

 

I will be cutting off a piece of the chest at the bottom...see second picture with blue tape...is that accurate?

Do I need to cut off anyting from the back plate?

CHESTTRIM1_zpsadzoyc7e.jpg

 

88d3b921-af7a-4773-a530-fc6156ab9a79_zps

 

The shoulder straps will be trimmed to blue tape...accurate?

159ae799-cf0e-4855-9219-a09fb1879179_zps

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I have some gap between the back and chest at the shoulder, it's really about what is comfortable, and to make sure it's not choking you.

 

As far as the Chest, what you have marked is correct to cut off.

 

The back can be trimmed up some more, just trace the curvature of the back along the sides that is (this is mainly for comfort and doesn't affect approval)

 

and what you have marked off on the shoulder straps is correct!

 

Looking good! :duim:

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Hey Victor, as Andrew stated the gap between the the front and back is ok, as a matter of fact it's suggested. For starters you really don't want the plastic from either the front or back digging into your shoulders. Take a look at other AM builds to get a idea on what kind of gap to look for, there are no specifications. Here's a pic of some recently built armor I did for a fellow garrison member. Your gap doesn't have to be a wide as this however, having elastic sitting on your shoulders is much more forgiving than plastic.

 

Hanger%202.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Very nice! Great job.

 

Have you attempted to glue the shoulder plate down around the corner? I know it's not easy but it would make it look much cleaner. 

Edited by ukswrath
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Very nice! Great job.

 

Have to attempted to glue the shoulder plate down around the corner? I know it's not easy but it would make it look much cleaner. 

Any tips on how to do that?  Happy to try it, I'm not liking that part of the shoulder cover corner not being flush with the chest plate.

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Any tips on how to do that?  Happy to try it, I'm not liking that part of the shoulder cover corner not being flush with the chest plate.

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31920-ukswraths-am-10-ata-bucket-build/page-2

 

#31

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