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Altair

Altair's Resin Doopydoos E11 Build

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Looking good Johny, trigger guard and trigger clearance look fine it sit pretty much how mine does and gives a good amount of trigger movement.

 

 

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Regarding size and positioning of that plastic stripe: please check some original reference pictures for this. To me it currently looks a bit wide.

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Perhaps a bit thinner John, if not too late. Aaron has got. Aaron has got a good pic of a real bolt in his pipe build, about half way down page 4 of his thread.

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26960-e-11-steel-pipe-build/page-4

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Cheers guys, not too late to fix :)

 

I thought it was a little wide, will trim down.

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I would also use the tip of an exacto knife to gently scrape out between the bolt and the receiver wall. This gives a 3D depth look.

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Bit more work on the doopys :)

Using a plastic tube for the inner bolt, I drilled a hole to secure the cocking handle using a bolt, nut and washer.

Rlyr4wt.jpg

The diameter of the plastic tubing was increased at the end to prevent it rattling around inside

QFrjbrc.jpg

Here it is inside...

SnGxbKR.jpg

jP4WyvS.jpg

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Great work on the charging handle and bolt. Really starting to come together now.

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Hey John, its been a while :)

 

Latest progress looks good. Keep the pictures comming...

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I've cleaned up the chamber for the inner bolt, using an exacto knife around the edges to give more depth (thanks Steve!). I've also thinned out and adjusted the angle of the bolt (thanks Tino!)

WX7l4gK.jpg

With some left over aluminum that I used for the scope rail, I cut and bent (at a 90 degree angle) a bracket to mount the counter. This seems to be pretty stable.

zPyKTJQ.jpg

To mount the folding stock, I added screws to the pivot points

5X6IkVx.jpg

And also added another screw to lock in the other end

jaV0Lre.jpg

This still had some very slight movement (side to side), so I made the screw thicker using some electrical tape and added a layer of black heat shrink to prevent it from ever coming undone.

ED5J1Js.jpg

On the magazine holder, I put a large screw down the middle to help mount it to the barrel. I also put some "pins" in to mount the magazine

0vvTMQ1.jpg

For added strength and stability, I've added screws and pins to the handle too.... Also made my mark on the handle, even though it will be hidden :)

xYLpu0s.jpg

I think I'll just pin everything!

x7J2nO2.jpg

Here is most parts mounted now for a test fit... nothing is glued as this point, only pins and screws holding it together

qf1iKhD.jpg

k8icl1Q.jpg

QhMQwmO.jpg

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Hey John, nice to see your latest progress.

 

Just one question: did you use countersunk screws for the folding stock hinge? The angle in that photo doesn't answer that, so I assumed that must have been the reason for leaving resin in the close surrounding area.

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Hey mate, the screws have been countersunk. I didn't grind off the entire resin blobs, I drilled into them because they were larger than the heads of the screws.... Should I just take everything off?

 

 

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Hi John

What you have done on the folding stock is fine, just fill the screw heads with putty and sand them round so they look like they did originally.

All looks pretty good so far, keep it up.

 

 

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Cheers mate, I plan to fill them in soon. Actually there are a few spots on my doopys that will get a touch of green stuff...

 

More updates to come including mods to the counter and power cylinders :)

 

 

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Looking great John. With all the added support pieces, this will be one sturdy blaster.

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Thanks Brian, that's the plan.. this will be a trooping blaster (until I do a pipe build) so I want it nice and strong

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A little more modification to the Hengstler.. What good is a counter with no numbers? Time to fix that!

Here is the doopys counter out of the box

7gFZVfK.jpg

First job is to remove the resin display and sand it flat

UGlmfEc.jpg

Thanks to Simon (SIMpixels) and his awesome build thread here I had a nice template with all the measurements to cut out the holes for my counter button and display

0nmUJWj.jpg

Time to cut some holes! I ended up drawing my measurements on the counter.. but a more accurate/easier way would have been to actually print and stick the template to the counter. Also I cut a button out of the originals doopys resin magazine that I replaced :)

xCMYcEO.jpg

Next I cut a piece of plexiglass to size... its a little thick but its all I had available. I know this needs to have a curved shape to it but I've not polished this stuff before (any tips??), so for now it will remain square with the edges smoothed

uwhJPqV.jpg

Handy tip for test fitting, wrap some tape around the display so it can be easily pulled out :)

hjQgHk8.jpg

Another thank you to Simon (SIMpixels) for whipping me up a counter display with my TK ID, cheers mate! :)

BWT3O0L.jpg

Another test fit... Once I have finished painting it black (and possibly shaped a curved piece of plexiglass) I will put it all back together :)

2FemDar.jpg

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Another small update... I've made an inner spring by wrapping steel wire around a marker

bvy5TBH.jpg

I've got 11 x visible coils

2Y6YDu8.jpg

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You had asked for instructions on how to shape and polish that Plexiglas window.

 

This is how Steve (gazmosis) did it: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26430-doopy-buildreal-sterling-folding-stock/page-3

 

Do you plan to glue the reset button into the counter?

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T-Jay, that was what I was going to ask! How to stop the reset button for resetting back

 

 

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T-Jay, that was what I was going to ask! How to stop the reset button for resetting back     (...)

 

That depends on the type of counter. The reset button in a real working counter can be disabled by blocking its movement. But on this resin counter here it looks like the button might just get glued in. John will surely tell us...

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Yep, the reset button is purely for show, will just be glued in :)

 

 

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I have only now discovered that my Doopy's kit did not include a Bayonet Lug - Part Number 16

I've had this kit for about 6 months now, I've emailed Doopys about the missing piece...

97Dog24.jpg

Anyways I've started making a replacement part myself out of green stuff... first I squashed some green stuff into a basic rectangle shape and left over night to cure

zTchf2c.jpg

Sanded this down to a smaller rectangular shape

T0FoRr3.jpg

Started shaping the piece based on images I found around the net

sup1oGX.jpg

pRLk3V0.jpg

Here it is sitting on the barrel...

WHCRfs6.jpg

So I'm not finished yet... I need some hi-res close up pics of this part so I can confirm the shape and possibly some measurements... can someone help me out?

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Hey John, very good workaround! Would have done it exactly the same way.
 
Until somebody with a real Sterling chimes in, here are the readings from my resin blaster (not claiming these are accurate, but at least you got something to continue with your build).

17343006696_6b52ae0db3.jpg     17343009856_f4a826930a.jpg

 

The height was 12 mm from the receiver tube to the highest point on top.

 

Hope this helps...

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Champion! Thanks mate.

 

 

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