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HansDC

Hans' (TPE) Resin DLT-19 Build

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I tried for a long time to source a complete or kit form DLT-19 but to no avail. Mainly because I live in Australia which have pretty strict gun laws. Everything from sellers not willing to risk sending it to customs actually confiscating the shipment. 

But by some stroke of luck, I managed to find someone locally who could cast resin moulds. Got my kit from TPE (The Plastic Empire) in Melbourne if anyone is interested. https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Plastic-Empire/634619653244041

 

Whenever I look up the build threads on here, I get madly envious. The guys and girls who are super handy and can craft anything from just about anything - I wish I was one of you. But unfortunately Im not. Some of you have crazy skill sets and I have mad respect for you even tho you might think its nothing. 

For inspiration I used mostly Chance's (2thin) build thread. Thanks mate, our brief forum convo really got me motivated. 

 

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So onto my build. While waiting for the kit to arrive, I read through all the build threads and had in my head that I was gonna have moving parts, sound and light FX, blah blah blah. Then the box arrived. Was super excited but when I looked at it, I knew it wasn't just gonna be a little bit of glue and paint. All the crazy mods I had planned in my head - went out the door. I spotted my biggest headache straight away which was to bore the massive 22mm hole about 6 inches deep so I could connect the main parts. I don't have a shed full of tools and the only power tools I actually own are a Dremel and a Hoover. :(

 

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I started by trimming all the excess bits and cleaning up all the small parts. There were heaps and heaps of bubbles all over the entire mould so I spent a bit of time filling with putty. While doing all this I had a rethink of my plan. I came to realise that it wasn't the fact that I wouldn't be able to accomplish all the extras, but more the fact that I didn't have the experience and knowledge...yet. So my plan of attack was to build my first DLT as basic as possible, something that will look half decent on a troop. Easy enough I figured. And then I could aim higher with the next one I do. My main goal was to be able to pull the gun apart for packing/transport. 

 

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The bipod came in one solid piece so had to cut out all the excess

 

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Do you know if the hole under the etched bits is meant to be open all the way through?

 

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Here it is roughly cleaned up....

 

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Im still not sure if I want to replace the various screw heads with real ones. I have done so on my E-11, but after many coats of primer and paint, I don't really think it matters too much. Also finding the correct sized/shape screw has been a little challenging. 

 

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As you can see there is still a but of detailing/sanding etc to do...

 

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After putting everything on hold for the X-Mas and New Year's madness, I managed to rope a mate into helping me figure out the next stage, which was to try and connect the main pieces together. He has a shed full of tools and was keen to help. We measured the size of the hole (22mm) and purchased a drill bit of the same size. I was recommended to use a spade bit, but my mate insisted that this one we got was better for what we were doing. And he was right. He explained that because we didn't have a drill press and had to do it by hand, it would be safer incase we went a little crooked. 

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Tried to find an aluminium or steel tube that would fit snugly into the PVC pipe to strengthen the barrel, but didn't have much luck. This was as close to one I could find. I think with a little bit of hot glue I can secure it without it rattling around. I also intend to drill the cooling holes on the barrel all the way through the PVS pipe so you can see the steel tube through it. What do you think?

 

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This is the finished hole

 

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We drilled a hole where there was a moulded bolt and replaced it with a real one. This actually helps to secure both pieces on one end. 

 

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The other end is secured just by friction with the moulded sections on the left (below pic)

 

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Underside view

 

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Test assembly

 

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I couldn't help myself.... :P

 

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Thats where Im at so far. Still a bit of detailing with the Dremel and quite a bit more sanding to do. Then paint. Hopefully Melbourne gives us a few nice days in the week ahead. I set today aside for more building....but of course its raining with no end in sight.... :( My next troop is in a week, so hopefully I will have a big gun to carry around then. 

Any suggestions, tips, critiques are welcome! 

Thanks for looking so far!

Edited by HansDC
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Managed to squeeze a few hours in today when it stopped raining for a bit...

 

Decided to drill the holes right through. Took forever. So many holes. Also did as much as I could as far as cleaning up the details. Its not 100% but Im hoping the small blemishes are not noticeable once a few layers of paint are on. 

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Attached the ammo box and disc thingy...

 

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Then bath time....

 

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Hopefully we get some calm sunny weather next few days so I can start painting. 

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Fantastic job so far Hans, hopefully I will be in a position to get one of these by mid year.

Keep up the good work.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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I have never built one yet but looks great to me. Super job drilling it out and getting it together. Envious!

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Looks awesome! I'll copy that bolt idea for sure now. The way I got the aluminum tube to not rattle around was to drill a hole down the center of the bigger holes on both ends so it would be centered, hot glue should work though if you never plan to remove it. 

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I thought I was prepped and ready to paint, but after only the first coat of primer, all the blemishes and inconsistencies showed right through. I could live with most of them, except for the one massive join from the mould right down the top of the entire gun. So it was back to the drawing board with more Dremel and sanding action. 

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The weather was kind to me today. Sunny and dry! I wasted no time in getting to it. These are the paints I used. All the parts were painted with the black primer/paint combo. Managed to find it in satin black which was handy. The flat black for the T-tracks and the hammer finish for most of the gun. The hammered paint I discovered helps to hide most of the blemishes on the mould. Hella messy tho as it kinda just spurts to give that effect. I also used Tamiya Gunmetal for the steel pipe that goes into the barrel. Had some sitting around and thought id would add a nice touch to the finished product. 

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Once that was done and dried, it was tim to put on the T-tracks and wire. Superglued the twisted ends to the barrel cos you can't really see them as the bipod covers most of it. 

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Finished off by gluing the bipod on. Here it is in its parts. 

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And some close up pics of it assembled. 

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The extra sanding and paint really helped. You can't really see the seam anymore. Im quite pleased that I put in that extra elbow grease. :)

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The connection isn't perfect. As you can see there is a tiny gap...but the gun is solid and doesn't bend unless you really force it.  

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Still have to paint that silver strip where the butt connects the gun. Don't really wanna paint the butt that bakelite colour as well. I think i'll stick to black. 

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All in all, Im pretty pleased with what I have done. Thanks everyone for all your references and guidance. Its currently sitting against my room door and it looks amazing! Now I really want one with moving parts, lights and sounds!!! I do have to say tho its pretty heavy. And I haven't found a comfortable position to carry it in yet...

Let me know what you think!!! Cheers! :)

Edited by HansDC

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Fantastic work. :jc_doublethumbup:

 

It looked so freaky in the translucent resin. :laugh1:

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Hi Hans, not trying to be picky but noticed a few things you may or may not want to tweak. The T tracks the small ones should have wire threaded around through the cooling holes to join them onto the barrel. Check out Aarons photobucket: http://s900.photobucket.com/albums/ac207/theplasticempire/ and click on the DLT-19.

 

Also some advice from the MEPD is that the cocking handle should actually be forward (ready to fire) not glued in the rear position above the hand grip.

 

As stated earlier I'm not trying to make you feel bad about your build- it just depends on how much accuracy you wanted on the blaster. Looks great either way.

 

Cheers

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First of all - thank you for your concern for accuracy. :)

 

I had a look at Aaron's pics. I actually built my gun with the help of his pics. After all, the resin mould came from him. 

 

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As you can see the cocking handle on Aaron's blaster is set to the back. That is the way it was moulded. My biggest concern is when that I can't carry the gun comfortable with the cocking handle where it is. I might just remove it altogether. I never really saw it was there in the movies and I don't really think you need a cocking handle on a laser blaster....right?

As for the wire in the T-tracks....I don't understand what you mean. Did you mean the wire should go in and out of the cooling holes? 
 

My DLT has no moving parts, gets soft and bendy when left in hot weather for too long and has no lights or sounds. So as far as 'accuracy' concerned - I'm not. 

Edited by HansDC

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Yeah no probs fully understand- I noticed the cocking handle on Aaron's was at the rear also! I had to sand mine slightly to fit in the forward position- it was more if you were going for level 2 certification that the cocking handle would have to be shifted and the t tracks wired in.

 

I can't post photos for some reason so hard to explain. Cheers Hans

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Im pretty sure my t-tracks are wired in like Aaron's photos. But would be great if you could find some reference of what I need to do. 

Also for level 2 certification it only states...
 

For level two certification (if applicable):
  • A DLT-19 is an MG-34 with T-tracks on the barrel, ejection port cover added, and a small disk on left side.

 

Where have you seen the need for a cocking handle? Is it an MEPD thing?

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Yes I think so- the thought process is along the lines of- if it isn't ready to fire then it's not ready. For the MG34/ DLT19 to be loaded and ready to go it has to be forward (ie ammo locked into the barrel. Will try and upload photos again. Cheers

 

Okay its just not working for me- I have loaded them onto photobucket, try

 

http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/Waxyblah/media/t%20tracks_zpsz3zkhaen.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

 

hope that works

Edited by Waxy

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Ah yes I see where the wire goes! So sneaky!

Thanks for the advice. I have since set my cocking stock to the front. Makes sense about the whole 'ready to fire' thing. Also a bit more out of the way when I carry it in a certain position. 

Cool. Needs some cleaning up and touchup paint and Ill try and post some pics soon. 

Cheers Craig! :)

 

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Hans! I was just going to ask about the seller, how much did you pay for this bad boy!?

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Hans! I was just going to ask about the seller, how much did you pay for this bad boy!?

Hey sorry I just saw this!

 

I paid USD$200. But you have to think about postage I guess cos you are on the other side of the world. 

 

If Im not mistaken, there is someone on the forum doing 3D printed DLT's. They are much much lighter. Mine weighs about 7kg's and if I troop with it all day like at a con....my arms are broken at the end. :(

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