russellr2d2[TK] Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 (edited) You need 4 snaps on the chest plate to be CRL accurate Russell, no wait 3, or was it 2, shoot! could be 5, gosh can't remember. Oh and one of your mounts appears to be off by 1mm compared to the others OHHH GAWD! WHERE! NO! NO! Taking it lighter now and just getting the strapping done! Even if it's not perfect....did I just say that?? There is an armor party in Buena Park this Sunday. I plan to go and show my armor, put it on and let everyone point and laugh. Good time to get some advice in person. I'll even bring tools and strap materials to re-do things. Edited May 12, 2015 by russellr2d2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 I plan to go and show my armor, put it on and let everyone point and laugh. Good time to get some advice in person. I'll even bring tools and strap materials to re-do things. Well in between all the laughing you think you might get don't be surprised if you get oohs and aahs Seriously, you need to give yourself more credit. Most build parties you'll find 501st L1 basic builds, yours is L3 Centurion. Be prepared to teach others the mastery craft you've developed. The force will be with you 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russellr2d2[TK] Posted May 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 (edited) TAH-DAH!!! First full body/leg "formal" fitting. I will take this armor to a build party this weekend (I hope) and see what the Southern California Garrison chaps have to say. Notes below: I am really happy with the front. If you see something please chime in ! AA) Maybe that right knee can be pushed over with foam so it lines up better with the shin. A) Looks like I have a slight gap on the right side but, I do not yet have a belt on to squeeze things together. Never mind the one open shin...I just left it open. But you can see the slot system and how it closes up on the other shin. That one is locked closed with big velcro straps inside. There is that darn gap under the back plate. Maybe stronger elastic back there??? Ohhh geez! flabby butt! A) Do I put in the shoulder bell snap forward of center to keep the bells forward? This is the amount of gap I have between back and chest. Seems good? A) Here is how high the chest rides above the AB. It is hanging by double elastic straps (4 of them). The thighs are hanging by a very comfortable garter I bought here. Seems to work great! Overall notes: I think it is fitting quite well. You guys decide and give me some feedback. One thing is that this armor is very comfortable so far (wearing it around the house) and I can walk very comfortably in it. The TK boots are superb !!! The shins and thighs meet at the knees at a good spot and I can bend my legs very easy and walk around without care. Rather clanky though! Looking forward to strapping on the shoulder bells and that will be it! Thanks for looking!! feeling the force here!! Edited May 13, 2015 by russellr2d2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tusken RTT Posted May 13, 2015 Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 Looking good! Not much more you can do on your back piece due to the curved shape of it unless you cut the bottom corners and redo the edges- I would just leave it. You could paint your connector that keeps your ab and kidney piece aligned black to hide it also. You can see it peeking through on the right side close up shot. Just eye ball the shoulders and go for it, then adjust the snap placement as needed. Keep em coming! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted May 13, 2015 Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 (edited) Looking excellent! Thighs, I have 1" x 2" blocks of foam on the inside, outer areas near the knees on both legs. This pulls the armor outward in alignment with the shins. I personally put velcro on my boots and shins to keep them front and center since my tend to twist off center like in the movie. Back plate, nylon webbing will hold it together better IMO. Shoulder bells, I found the ball (top center) of my shoulder and placed the snap there. Remember you've attached your forearms to your bells, this will want to pull the bells forward naturally. Easy test is to temporary clamp the bell strap to the shoulder strap and walk around stopping in front of a mirror to see where the bell naturally sits. Once you find the sweet spot mark it and install your snap. edit: Optimally you want no more than 1/4" between your bell and shoulder strap. As you test walk be mindful of your bell downward position and how much it tugs on your shoulder straps. Again, once you find the sweet spot mark it and install snap. Edited May 13, 2015 by ukswrath Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russellr2d2[TK] Posted May 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 Thanks guys for to advice. Looks like there will be a period of adjustments and foam installing. I will have plenty of time during basic approval then EIB before the Centurion level attempt. Getting excited to see the arms and belt on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russellr2d2[TK] Posted May 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 (edited) FITTING SHOULDERS: I made a strap with a snap only on the bell end so far. The loose end I used a CLECO CLAMP (you can use any clamp or a safety pin, or tape). I put the tip of the shoulder bell about 1/4" away from the shoulder strap so it will pull the bell up close and tight to the chest armor. Here is how it looks clamped up. In the photo the strap did not get set quite 1/4" but good for a test fit. Here are both shoulder bells clamped on for a test fit. Know i know how long a strap I want before I put in the final snap. The bell strap will be very short to bring the bell tip right up to the shoulder strap...1/4" gap is all. In the photo I have my right side better clamped. You can see the bells is tighter. ANY RECOMMENDATIONS HERE FELLOW TROOPERS??? Edited May 16, 2015 by russellr2d2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted May 16, 2015 Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 Your right side looks perfect! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russellr2d2[TK] Posted May 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 Here is the armor all strapped up!! (I noticed in the photos one of my shins pulled up high off my boot!...maybe elastic stirrups?) The black gaps at the shoulders seemed to migrate a bit as you moved around. I also found that the gap depended on how far forward I rotated my bicep. If I rotated my bicep forward it would close up the gap at the bell/chest area. Rotate it backward and it would open up. I think in this photo my left arm is just bent a little more than the right so the gaps are different. But my OCD eye goes right to that spot anyway! YOU! Jawa come over here...NOW! What was nice was the shoulder bells would go right back to their place even if I raised my arms up and down several times. (happy-happy!) Taking this to the armor party tomorrow and try it out on the guys... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russellr2d2[TK] Posted May 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 (edited) Starting other pits and pieces: Hand guards get a plate inside that I THINK I will attach a pad of velcro. A velcro pad will be glued to the fabric back of the glove (basic approval). Thermal Detonator: At the hardware store they have scraps!! So try to find them (ask) before you buy a big length of pipe. I was GIVEN FREE a length of black pipe in the correct ATA diameter. Only problem was it was BLACK not GRAY. So I painted it. The pipe is really tight on the caps. I do not think I can get the caps on more than 10mm onto the pipe so, I cut the pipe short by 20mm. I will glue the caps on extended so they bring the total length to the required 7.5" This is a dark gray Rustoleum gray primer. I think I will leave it flat gray....looks cool esp. in contrast to all the shiny white armor. I used a blue tape to make a nice line to follow with a knife to score the plastic for snapping apart. The caps are 25mm tall. Edited May 17, 2015 by russellr2d2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 Here is the armor all strapped up!! (I noticed in the photos one of my shins pulled up high off my boot!...maybe elastic stirrups?) The black gaps at the shoulders seemed to migrate a bit as you moved around. I also found that the gap depended on how far forward I rotated my bicep. If I rotated my bicep forward it would close up the gap at the bell/chest area. Rotate it backward and it would open up. I think in this photo my left arm is just bent a little more than the right so the gaps are different. But my OCD eye goes right to that spot anyway! YOU! Jawa come over here...NOW! What was nice was the shoulder bells would go right back to their place even if I raised my arms up and down several times. (happy-happy!) Taking this to the armor party tomorrow and try it out on the guys... They're gonna be envious Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 Starting other pits and pieces: Hand guards get a plate inside that I THINK I will attach a pad of velcro. A velcro pad will be glued to the fabric back of the glove (basic approval). You're gonna hate me but throw those covers back in your box and go buy some flexible ones being you'll need them for Centurion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russellr2d2[TK] Posted May 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 You're gonna hate me but throw those covers back in your box and go buy some flexible ones being you'll need them for Centurion. Oh yea ...but just for basic approval and everyday use. THANKS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tusken RTT Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 Armor looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russellr2d2[TK] Posted May 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 (edited) Thank you!Today I visited the Orange County Squad which was having an armor party. Lots of building going in and I showed my armor to the guys. They approve.Uhhh I forgot to take pictures. EDIT! Ok one picture! But boy! what I missed....one guy brought a REAL MG32 machine gun...dang! it was heavy. And there I was munching on cookies and staring at it and never thinking of taking pictures!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited May 18, 2015 by russellr2d2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russellr2d2[TK] Posted May 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 Thermal Detonator and Shoulder Straps: Cut and squeezed on the end caps...no glue needed they are so tight. The control panel is cut to a size that I just eyeballed looking at other troopers on the forum. Big blobs of glue under the panel. Blue tape to hold it down tight overnight. Shoulder straps go on. I was able to have another trooper put them on and draw pencil lines for the position. Sanded the glue areas on both pieces and juts blobbed a lot of glue under the straps ( E6000 ). It looks like the exact position of the straps is not a big deal. They will move around a lot as you wear them anyway. They are glued down on the chest only! Remember let them float over the shoulders and then tie the back end down with the thin white elastic as seen in the movies (check out some Centurion builds). Clamps-clamps-clamps....tape -tape-tape.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 Thermal Detonator and Shoulder Straps: Cut and squeezed on the end caps...no glue needed they are so tight. The control panel is cut to a size that I just eyeballed looking at other troopers on the forum. Big blobs of glue under the panel. Blue tape to hold it down tight overnight. Shoulder straps go on. I was able to have another trooper put them on and draw pencil lines for the position. Sanded the glue areas on both pieces and juts blobbed a lot of glue under the straps ( E6000 ). It looks like the exact position of the straps is not a big deal. They will move around a lot as you wear them anyway. They are glued down on the chest only! Remember let them float over the shoulders and then tie the back end down with the thin white elastic as seen in the movies (check out some Centurion builds). Clamps-clamps-clamps....tape -tape-tape.... Wait, wait, wait hehe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russellr2d2[TK] Posted May 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 (edited) Here is where all this building is happening....My man-cave ! Note the photos taped up ready for my next step. I look all over White Armor Dot Net and see how it is done before I plough into it. Everything is researched before hand. The bench vice has been the most useful tool on the bench. Starting the belt parts: Note in the work area photo above the photos of the belt and drawings I downloaded off of White Armor Dot Net. They have all dimensions you need and details. I just look up whenever I need to know anything. PUT DOWN THE DREMEL ! SCORE & SNAP instead! It's easier, faster, cleaner, safer, more accurate by a mile. I haven't used a Dremel for anything in the building of the armor. It came in handy just a little for the ears on the helmet and was very useful/necessary on the blaster kit from Doopy's. But here ??? Pfffft ! Following those drawings I have posted on my wall (covering a nice P-51 Mustang airbrush rendering I did back in 1987) I am cutting the corners of the belt plastic. I also trimmed the ends down. First time I used my disk sander. Trimming down the covers for the belt. ready to apply cover snaps that hold the plastic part to the canvas belt. The smaller one is for the middle. It fits between two blocks on the belt and has to be smaller so it will fit...no choice. Small cover fit... Putting in a heat bend so the belt will wrap better around my waist. I saw this technique here on WA. It is supposed to make better bends at each block and not let the flat area get all warpy. NOT TOO MUCH HEAT!! KEEP THE HEAT GUN ABOUT 8"...JUST QUICK BRUSH MOVEMENTS CLOSER. You are not trying to get the plastic real soft. Only heat it up enough to take a bend at the edges of the wood. You will need to carefully apply pressure with your fingers to get it to bend along the two edges of the wood and not the middle or only one side in a sharp turn. Just small turns at each edge of the wood stick will make the entire belt curve in a nice way without sudden changes/angles. The plastic will be hot to the touch but not soft. Here is the belt after heat bending at each block line. Pretty good, only one sharp turn there on the left side. I worked it back out after the photo was taken. Edited May 20, 2015 by russellr2d2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 I have a strong feeling that this build will be stickied! Absolutely terrific job Russell and great documentation will help me and many future troopers as well. Somebody give this man a medal! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 I have a strong feeling that this build will be stickied! Absolutely terrific job Russell and great documentation will help me and many future troopers as well. Somebody give this man a medal! SERIOUSLY! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russellr2d2[TK] Posted May 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 Ahhhhhh. Shucks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russellr2d2[TK] Posted May 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2015 (edited) Building the belt: How I put in snaps and positioned the belt on the armor. I purchased the belt from TKettle here on WA. It came in just three days and is of perfect quality! Happy-happy here. First I measured the exact center of the entire belt This is my work area with drawings I pulled off of WA. If I want to know any dimensions I just have to look up. I drilled holes for the three snaps that will connect the plastic belt to the canvas belt. Using the dim's off the drawings. To make these holes I just use a sharp Xacto knife blade and twirl it into the plastic. No need for a drill. Here is the center snap installed. The male snap is on the back side. Use a flat snap side here because later you have the plastic covers to hide these. Male snaps on the back of the plastic belt. To get the snap hole in the canvas exactly under your snap just use the hole in the snap to mark with a pencil. NOTE!!!!! WEAR THE BELT WHILE DOING THIS. THE BELT HAS TO BE BENDING TO GET AN ACCURATE PLACEMENT OF THE SNAPS. Not doing this you will get wrinkling of the canvas belt and hard to place snaps. The snap finished and holding the canvas belt. Marking the center of the plastic belt for placement of the belt-to-ab armor snaps. These two snaps will hold your belt up and keep it from sagging in front while you troop. Again you have to wrap the belt around the armor to get accurate placement. The belt goes right up to the button plate. Tapping the belt in place ready to make marks on the ab plate for locating the snaps. There is tape on the side too to hold the ends of the belt up to correct level. I forgot to get photos here but mark the armor with a pencil similar to how you did the snaps on the canvas belt. Now you instal female snaps to go against the ab plate with male snaps on it. Here is how the snaps look installed and the belt on. the snap on the left is holding the belt up in place on the ab. Right up against the bottom of the button plate area. Nice and level. The snap on the right is holding the plastic belt onto the canvas belt. Gluing on the little cover plates with E6000. Edited May 22, 2015 by russellr2d2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusionz_09[TK] Posted May 22, 2015 Report Share Posted May 22, 2015 Looking good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russellr2d2[TK] Posted May 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2015 (edited) Belt boxes: I thought it would be neat to have the boxes open and close so I made a fabric hinge inside. Maybe I could hide some trading cards in there. A thin strip of velcro keeps the box closed. Probably too hard to open once suited up in armor with gloves on but, maybe you open these and take out / put in stuff before suiting up. Anyway this is just for some unforeseen need later. I have the white strap glued on with E6000 rather than a rivet. Thats it! Boxes ready to hang on the belt via a long velcro tape on the strap. Edited May 26, 2015 by russellr2d2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted May 22, 2015 Report Share Posted May 22, 2015 Oooo clever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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