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trooper12's RT-Mod ABS ANH Stunt Build


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I had some extra time today so 'fixed' the ammo pack.  The edges were ~ 7mm from the ammo boxes and I trimmed them down to ~5mm.  I also rounded the edges using my thermal detonator ends to map the curve.  I then cut along the line using my Lexan scissors, lightly filed the edges and then sanded them.  I am happy with the end result.

 

Here is the ammo pack before trimming

 

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Here is the trim amount.  I did this for top and bottom.

 

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Using the thermal detonator ends to draw a curve.

 

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Here is the end result.

 

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After deliberating for a couple of days about what sizing to use for my thighs, I chose a size that is comfortable yet only allows 3 fingers on both sides top and bottom.  If I have it wrong, I know that I can still trim a bit if they end up being too loose after more experience using them.  I took off about 3cm per thigh, keeping the cut horizontal to the original trim from rt-mod.  I glued on an inside cover strip to one side of the thighs only and will glue the other side tomorrow.  Here are some pics.

 

This tutorial here by Pandatrooper has been a significant help http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/tutorials/article/22-howto-assemble-thighs-butt-join-with-cover-strips/

 

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Making the helmet ready for EIB/Centurion

 

I purchased the emulated hand painted decals (tears/traps) from trooperbay and replaced the regular decals.  These decals are amazing in that you can unpeel and stick them a few times until you get them right.  In the end they still stick perfectly.  Note the differences in the decals.  The set on the left are the emulated hand painted decals.  The set on the right are the decals that come with the rt-mod helmet.  There's no difference in colour just in the 'painted' lines. 

 

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I also purchased the s-trim seal to go around the helmet opening from trooperbay.  This pic shows the difference between the u-trim and s-trim.  Note: the s-trim does not cover as much of the helmet as the u-trim (at least not the one I have).  This may turn out to be problematic for me as currently the s-trim doesn't cover what I need it to.  Are there s-trims out there that are larger in width?  I am not sure I will be able to trim enough of the helmet to accommodate the s-trim and have it cover everything I need (see pics below).

 

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Pic with the s-trim on

 

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Pic of the s-trim off showing how little room I have available to trim.  I'll try to trim right up to the screw cap.

 

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Here is a pic of my vocoder and hovi mics.  I wish I didn't have to paint the vocoder as I don't think I'll be able to do as good a job as the decals.  Do these mic tips meet the EIB standard?  I believe so but the EIB description states 'correct 'hovi mic' aerator tips'.  It's unclear what correct means in this context.  The only difference I can see is that mine don't visibly show white inside the aerator as I've seen in other mic tips.

 

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Still lots to do and I also need to install my squirrel fans and add my rank stripe to my ears but I am very happy with the overall look of my bucket.

 

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Edited by trooper12
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I haven't posted in awhile (snowboarding season has begun) but have still been working away in the background.  I've been focusing on the thighs and shins.  Here are some pics.

 

Before adding any cover strips, I needed to make some cuts to align left and right pieces.  A few cuts using the Lexan scissors then using a sponge sanding block.  Sanding with a medium and then a fine block.  I finished off with some Maguires Ultimate Compound to get a shine.

 

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I also tried out my heating iron for the first time on the back of my thighs.  I just kept the temperature around 250 - 300 F and pressed downwards lightly and repeatedly.  I placed a strip of ABS underneath so the thigh ABS would have something to push against but in the end I didn't need it.  This created a large return edge which I trimmed with scissors and again, some sanding and Maguires.

 

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Edited by trooper12
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More shin pics.  This shows 9mm on the outer side and 16mm on the inner side.  The 25mm cover strip will attach to the 9mm side.  This will allow for velcro (13mm) to sit on the 16mm side and hopefully the velcro will be hidden from sight when the cover strip is closed.

 

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Created the 25mm cover strips which seem huge

 

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Taped up the shins to try out the cover strip and trim for length.

 

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Here are the 25mm strips glued to the shins

 

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The covers strips appear to be on the wrong side here but it's only because the left shin is on the right side and vice versa.

 

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Adding the cover strips on the front.  Next step tomorrow is to add the velcro and then the sniper plate then finish the thighs.

 

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Edited by trooper12
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I added the velcro to the shins today.  I overlapped the inside ABS strip over the outer and taped it from the inside with painters tape so the ends wouldn't move.  This allowed easy access to add the 'hooked' side using industiral strength velcro that Rob provided with the kit.  Once done, I taped up the outside of the shins over the 'hooked' velcro so once again the ABS sides wouldn't move.  I then added the other side of the velcro on the inside.

 

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This shows the velcro connected.  The gap is larger than I expected but still acceptable.  If it becomes a problem after trooping, I'll change it.

 

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Here is the final product for the shins (less the sniper plate to follow)

 

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As shown in a previous post my s-trim purchased through Trooperbay.com wasn't wide enough to cover the gapping of my helmet. I had planned on trimming the helmet but even then it wouldn't have been enough. Before I trimmed anything I first tried to get a larger s-trim seal. I found one on-line (window rubber) and it arrived today. At first it looked huge; perhaps, too bulky. In the end it fit perfectly and I am very happy.

 

This shows the Trooperbay s-trim on the left and an s-trim I found through sealsdirect.co.uk on the right. The s-trim code from sealsdirect was SWR150.

 

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This shows the seal on the helmet. If anyone wants my trooperbay s-trim from the Canadian Garrison, please let me know. It's yours, no charge. The helmet just needs a Vocoder paint job and some ear rank stripes to qualify for Centurion.

 

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Next step is trimming and heat-fixing some imperfections in the thighs.

Edited by trooper12
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  • 3 weeks later...

I've added the sniper knee plate.  It was quite straight forward to add.  I believe Rob has made some modifications to assist in making it easy to do so.  The key is not to be afraid to squeeze the sides of the outer contact points inward while aligning the front flat with the cover strip and the sides aligned to the angle of the raised top edge of the shin.  I added E6000 directly to the outer shin's cover strip after measuring where the knee plate would hide it.  For the sides of the knee plate I added the E6000 to the knee plate instead of the shin.  I waited a couple of minutes after applying the E6000 to let it tack up a bit so it would be less runny.  I used ratchet clamps for a stronger grip.  Where there was excess glue, I used a q-tip to remove it from the edges.  Here are some pics.

 

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Added magnets and tape for extra hold

 

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I let the glue cure for 2 days instead of one and here is the final product

 

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Ammo Pack

 

I've already showed the rounding of the edges in a prior post.  When I was considering how to mount the ammo pack, I wanted it to be parallel to the floor.  The only way to do this was to mount it above the raised bottom edge and into the main body of the thigh.  Thankfully, I reached out to a friend (Mike Brace) from the Canadian Garrison and he reminded me that the attachment has to be in the bottom raised edge for accuracy standards.  This means that the ammo pack has to be angled upwards when completed.  I was also expecting that the pack would reach almost to the back of the thigh but it only reached part way.  I used split rivets and spray painted them ahead of time.  I don't have a proper tool to set the split rivet and had a hard time splitting them.  In the process, I ended up scratching the paint off the rivets anyway so I then intentionally removed the paint and added the rivets with the idea of painting them afterwards.  They turned out fine.

 

Spray painted rivets by pushing them through some cardboard first.

 

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Pre-drilled the holes in the ammo pack first.  I just eyeballed the location for the holes by looking at other build and film pics.  Next step was to align the pack with the thigh's bottom raised edge.  I centered the pack so that the back was equal on both sides of the thighs at the back.  This also had the effect of having the middle ammo pack directly over the front cover strip.  After finding the location I was happy with, I marked the locations with a pencil through the hole I drilled through the ammo pack.  I then drilled one hole first, added the rivet and then repeated the process for the other side.

 

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The ammo pack kept slipping down at the front so I glued it with E6000.  Here is the finished product

 

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Thigh pack looks good from what I can see. Both Mike (Narc!) and my thigh packs are tilted up slightly. I have mine taped up with (Mike's actually) white duct tape so it doesn't fall down. If you look at the video from the white armor march from fan expo you'll see me reaching down to lift it up a few times on the escalators.

 

Take a photo from the side when you get a chance.

 

-Eric

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Looking great so far Rod!

 

When all is said and done, the little misadventures along the way will become fond memories for you.  

 

Seriously.  ;)

 

Besides that, as Eric already said:  MOAR RT-MOD!  We're taking over the Legion, don't you know? 

Edited by Dark CMF
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Getting there Rod! :D

 

I had also though about painting the rivets before attaching them but ultimately ended up not doing that and used white nail polish on them afterwards.

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Besides that, as Eric already said: MOAR RT-MOD! We're taking over the Legion, don't you know?

Soon for me Tim ;)

 

 

I paindes the rivets after too. I noticed that the white Tamya paint almost matches perfectly the RT-Mod color.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

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Thigh pack looks good from what I can see. Both Mike (Narc!) and my thigh packs are tilted up slightly. I have mine taped up with (Mike's actually) white duct tape so it doesn't fall down. If you look at the video from the white armor march from fan expo you'll see me reaching down to lift it up a few times on the escalators.

 

Take a photo from the side when you get a chance.

 

-Eric

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Thanks Eric.  I guess the upward tilt is just an 'rt-mod thing'.  Not really a big deal.  Here is a side view of the ammo pack.  I ended up putting a bit of E6000 on the top to keep it in place.

 

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Definitely following this thread, I really need a set of RT-Mod armor in my life..........soon as the waiting list reopens.

 

Great work so far :)

 

I waited almost a full year from the time I put my name on Rob's list.  It was a long wait but I am happy with the product received.

 

Looking great! 

 

Thanks man.  I appreciate the encouragement.

 

Looks like you are making great progress.

 

Thank you sir.  I am hoping to be done before 2015.

 

Ive never seen a more perfectly painted vocoder! You sir are a perfectionist and it shows on this build! 

 

I wish I could say it is but it's the tape that Rob provided and put on for me.  Here is a closer picture where you can see the overlap of the tape.  I am waiting to the end to do all of the hand painting (vocoder, ear stripe, ab buttons, rivets).  I would prefer to keep the tape on as I don't think I could do a better job than the tape but it's less accurate so I'll give it a go.  I am going to try to devise a template of some kind to keep the vocoder looking clean.

 

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Looking great so far Rod!

 

When all is said and done, the little misadventures along the way will become fond memories for you.  

 

Seriously.   ;)

 

Besides that, as Eric already said:  MOAR RT-MOD!  We're taking over the Legion, don't you know? 

 

Thanks and I agree.  At the beginning of the build I was afraid to make the slightest of mistakes.  After working with the ABS for awhile you realize that you can fix mistakes and the little things aren't as big as you think.  By the way, thanks for your build.  I referenced it for my belt and other tasks.  Your build was very well documented.

 

Getting there Rod! :D

 

I had also though about painting the rivets before attaching them but ultimately ended up not doing that and used white nail polish on them afterwards.

 

Good thought.  Thanks Andrea.

 

Soon for me Tim ;)

 

 

I paindes the rivets after too. I noticed that the white Tamya paint almost matches perfectly the RT-Mod color.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

 

Thanks Tolo.

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Here are some pics of the completed thighs and shins.  When walking, the sniper plate often comes underneath the thigh.  After more trials, I'll probably try to use foam inside the ABS to attempt to increase the distance of the thigh and sniper plate.  I need to do more research on this topic.

 

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For the strapping to hold up the thighs, I used the method used by WideAMG.  I made a single strap belt using extra polypropelene and a buckle purchased from Fabricland for $4.  I placed some industrial strength velcro (soft part facing toward your body) on the inside of the belt.  I then used two 2-inch elastic straps to attach to the inside front of the thighs and up through the belt.  The top of the elastic strap has the hook side of the industrial strength velcro that connects to the belt (facing outward).  The bottom of the elastic straps connect to the thighs using snaps.  This system allows for adjusting the height of the straps.  It's quite simple, cheap and effective.

 

Here is the material and velcro set-up

 

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Here is the attachment to the thighs

 

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Here is a close up of the belt and velcro set-up.  This pic is from WideAMG's build

 

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