gazmosis[501st] Posted November 24, 2014 Report Share Posted November 24, 2014 Good advice on those ears guys! Those are totally save able. Not that they were bad to begin with. Anyway, you asked earlier regarding your waist belt. Why there are so many useless pieces included with the AM kit baffles me. Use the belt you have pictured on the left. The rivet covers, which it looks like you have two sets of, should be trimmed out yo be 1 inch square. One will go in the center, one on each end. However, the really should not be centered as the dimple on each end suggests. After trimming out the rivet cover, stage it on the end so that it is centered top to bottom but is sitting about 1/8 inch off the edge. Then Mark the rivet cover's location so you know where to install your rivet. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batninja Posted December 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2014 It's been a few weeks since I did anything on the helmet, but since my boots came in today, it spurred me to do some painting. I've just done the teeth and the vocoder: I'll give it a few days to dry and cure, then I'll do a little touch up if necessary. I think it came out better than I expected! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Jay[TK] Posted December 24, 2014 Report Share Posted December 24, 2014 Congrats on receiving your boots. One step closer... Looks like the grey color has gone a bit too far (on tooth 4 and 5). It's hard to say, as most of your paintwork is in the shadow on that photo. Do you think you can remove this before it cures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batninja Posted December 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2014 I was trying to copy the look of the frown reference pictures from above: Here are better pics of mine: Does it still look like I went too far? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batninja Posted January 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Moving onto the armor... Is there a thread that discusses the widths of the butt joint covers for all the pieces (bicep, forearm, thigh, and calf)? And how much wiggle room should there be inside the pieces, between the plastic and the undersuit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TyWebb1075[501st] Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 15mm cover strips for biceps and forearms. 20mm for thighs and calves. Back of calves can go a little wider to accommodate velcro if that's how you decide to close them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batninja Posted January 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 (edited) Awesome! Thanks for the info! Edited January 4, 2015 by batninja Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TyWebb1075[501st] Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Leave enough room so you are comfortable and can move around. Biceps for example, you should have enough room be able to flex your bicep. It's trial and error I'm finding. Tape the pieces together, put it on, mark them where it looks and feels good before you cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batninja Posted January 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 Okay, I've got the arms taped up to the desired circumference, and will be working on the joining pieces this week. Is the preferred method to use shims on the inside of the pieces as well? If so, is it advisable to glue both inside and outside at the same time, or one and then the other? I hope that makes sense... Also, I have both ABS glue and E6000. Is there a preferred adhesive? I was thinking of using the ABS stuff for the internal shims (for strength), and the E6000 for the for the outer joins (in case I need to reposition anything in the future). Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tusken RTT Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 Go E6000 for sure- dont be in a hurry! I tried to do the inner and outer at the same time, was way too difficult to ensure everything was in the right place and not sliding around. I went with the inside's first on everything one day, outside covers the next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batninja Posted January 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 And that makes perfect sense to me, too. Thanks! Now to buy some more magnets... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffin-X[TK] Posted January 16, 2015 Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 Everything is coming along nicely Eric. Great work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batninja Posted January 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 Forgive the crudeness of the diagram ("I know, Doc, it's not to scale."), but is this the correct placement of the thigh boxes and holster for ANH Stunt? Thigh box even with the end of the belt? Thigh box almost touching the bottom of the belt? Holster butted up against the thigh box and the belt? Holster rivets near the top of the belt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pencap510 Posted January 20, 2015 Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 This might help : Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batninja Posted January 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 Awesome. And the thigh boxes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted January 20, 2015 Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 (edited) Your drop boxes are perfect the way you made them on your diagram. However, i would move the end cap closer to the edge of the ABS ammo belt. Edited January 20, 2015 by The5thHorseman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spycee[TK] Posted January 20, 2015 Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 Do the inner join first, after it will be easier to do the outer one, since the pieces are already held together. Go for E6000, it is strong enough and you have room for mistakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batninja Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 I took a break from gluing arms and biceps to start on my AP "B+" kit. By the time I stopped to take pictures, I'd already got to the brow trim! This is a great kit, and you have to really look close to see why it'd be considered a B+. From a foot away, it's an A! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batninja Posted February 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 Three day weekend for me, so I'm working on the legs! Is it a good or bad idea to have a shim on the inside front of the shins? Since that piece has to flex in order to open... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuumantroop[TK] Posted February 13, 2015 Report Share Posted February 13, 2015 Always nice to have reinforcement. I have shims on mine, i think it gives it a stronger join, especially a place that takes as much stress as the fronts take being constantly opened and closed when suiting up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batninja Posted March 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 I haven't posted much in the past weeks, as I've been busy between this and my other hobbies. But now it's crunch time! Here's what I have left: Glue the shoulder straps to the chest armor Paint new helmet screws white (had to get longer ones to hold in the visor plate) Sand & glue the abdomen plates Paint buttons Add thigh snaps to garter belt Sew Velcro to the back of the canvas belt Add thin elastic to back of shoulder straps/back armor Make straps from biceps (snaps) to forearms (Velcro) Add the thigh ammo pack, paint rivets Glue sniper plate Add padding to greaves/forearms Sew Velcro to back of neckseal Add Velcro and padding to helmet Configure electronics to helmet and chest armor (wireless headset/transmitter, receiver, amp, MP3 player, iComm, PTT cable to hand) And I have to get all this done before Friday morning! Headed to All-Con in Dallas/Addison! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batninja Posted May 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 (edited) Update! I completed all the components at a frantic pace before All-Con back in March, and was re-activated back into the Legion! TK-2648 is BACK ONLINE! We took a few pics at the convention, but I wasn't happy with the overall look and fit, since I'm a bigger guy. So I made several adjustments and I think the fit came out much better. A special thanks to my local garrison mate fuumantroop for all the assistance and advice! Edited May 11, 2015 by batninja Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tusken RTT Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 Looks fantastic! Look forward to trooping with you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artshot Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 Great thread, you asked a lot of the questions I have thought of even before I receive my brown box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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