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Altair's MTK ANH Stunt Build


Altair

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looking good mate, as the guys said before and there is a good thread regards glue, but I don't know where I saw it on FISD.

I use both E6000 and Zapagap.  probably 90% E6000 and the rest is Zapagap but only when i am 150% it is not going to need to be taken of again.

 

I am ordering more in the next Trooperbay order thread on RBG

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Thanks for the feedback guys.

 

@ Toybiz - I think I'm going to go with elastics and snaps... seems to be what the local guys in my garrison are doing.

 

@ Petros - I've picked up Zapagap. Although the E6000 is more forgiving, I think I read somewhere that it has a pretty strong smell that lasts?

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Trimming up the shin and thigh pieces now.

2CFP03S.jpg

Do many leave the return edge on down at the ankle?

IhivRw9.jpg

I've left 10mm each side for a 20mm cover strip, but haven't trimmed the back yet as I still need to do some test fittings.

2wDiP7W.jpg

First thigh piece..

6qU5ejT.jpg

8cTj5NC.jpg

And started cutting out my front cover strips :)

CsNGItk.jpg

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Looking good. Yes you are on the right track to build the fronts of the thighs and shins first. Fit with your under suit, mark the cut line and fit one more time with the help of another then cut.

 

I would remove the return edge on the bottom of the shins. No need for them plus it will allow for a tighter fit around the ankle.

 

There is an odor with E6000 but only when it is first applied and curing. I would say only for about an hour. But with any glue it is a good idea to have some ventilation.

Edited by toybiz
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You used a razor knife to cut your strips. You will have a little raised edge on your cut lines. Make sure these are removed before gluing anything up as they will prevent a flush, flat fit.

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You used a razor knife to cut your strips. You will have a little raised edge on your cut lines. Make sure these are removed before gluing anything up as they will prevent a flush, flat fit.

Steve thats a good tip, saves learning by mistakes and fitting flush issues.

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Here's my attempt at making the TD clips :)

First I cut 2 x lengths (approx 10inch.. to be shortened later) and taped them together. Then I marked for holes at 1inch and 2.5inch from the end.

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Drilled the holes with approx 1/8inch drill bit.

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Next I ran some 80grit sand paper over each side.

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Then more sanding with some finer sand paper :)

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I cut a small length of PVC pipe which had a slightly smaller diameter than the pipe I will use for my thermal det. I did this to get a snug fit.

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Clips mounted and bent into shape.

vusRtXi.jpg

99% finished product... What do you think?

zjDobvr.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

The past several weeks has been crazy for me... one crisis after another... so I haven't made much progress.

 

But today I thought I would get back on track and what better way then to attack the bucket!
 

Faceplate trimmed with eyes and frown :)

 

DT2ITrl.jpg

 

Test fitting with clamps... I must have done this two dozen times! Couldn't decide if I wanted a raised eyebrow or not :)

 

4D6bwhC.jpg

 

I eventually settled on a lowered eyebrow, I think this looks more angry... just like my face when I had a go at the ears!

 

What do people think? Do the ears look a little big? Should make them thinner or leave as is?

 

Efuw7xl.jpg

 

4qilpD2.jpg

 

bobng7l.jpg

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Hi John,

 

You helmet looks great! Ears are a challenge for sure but as far if they need to be trimmed more, I would say it's a personal preference. For basic 501st requirements you should be fine.

 

The movie suits were all over the place when you look closely at the ears.

 

If this was mine, I would take them down a little.

 

Have a great New Years!

Edited by toybiz
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  • 5 weeks later...

After getting side track by my E11 build, I'm setting myself a goal to have the helmet done by the end of this week.
I still need to thin down the ears... but decided to get some paint on first for motivation :)

Gave the bucket a clean and polish before paint - nice and shiny!

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Here is what I have done so far... I had the frown all masked up at first but decided to do it freehand as I've seen in other threads paint leaking under the tape. I'll have to clean up the edging on the corners with the old toothpick trick once dry.

Gh83S0j.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here is the helmet now after tidying up the paint, adding the decals, fitting the mic tips and hot glued in some mesh for the frown.
I wanted to try using decals first to what they were like before considering painting... The tube stripes look clean and are about the width of a pencil away from the cheek. For the other decals I used a soapy water mix to apply them, they went on OK except the tear decals were tricky, it was hard to avoid creases as you are applying a flat sticker to a curved surface..

014WVqe.jpg

The ears all painted up :) It seems to me that most people tend to paint the black outline first and then add the grey... I had to be different and did the grey first then the black pin stripe. I think it turned out fairly neat...

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I decided to attach my lenses to the ear bolts and after wearing the helmet a few times I noticed the edge would sit on my nose, so to make it more comfortable I added some U-shape rubber

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For padding I picked up some tactical helmet padding off ebay. The padding is held in using velco spots that came with it, so they can easily be removed for washing.

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OK, so the bucket didn't quite get finished on the weekend, 99% done - just have to paint the ear bolts white and put everything back together.

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I've also commenced work of the webbing/strapping, more specifically the straps that joint the Back/Kidney/Butt together. For this I decided to follow fellow local garrison (Redbacks) member BIDS idea using double snaps with velcro around the snaps for extra strength.

All of the velcro, nylon webbing and elastic is 50mm wide. I cut the following lengths:
- Elastic 85mm
- Velcro 40mm
- Webbing 40mm

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Then melted the edges with matches

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To hold all pieces together initially I used a hot glue gun

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I glued the hook velcro to the elastic and the loop velcro to the nylon webbing

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Then I used a sewing machine (yes I used the sewing machine... figured it out after a few attempts :) ) to sew around the border and down the middle for extra strength as the hot glue by itself is not overly strong.

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I then made a template to help mark out where I need to put holes for the snaps and used a whiteout pen to make my marks

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I tried a few different ways to put holes in these things but the best by far was poking a hot soldering iron through

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Wacked in my snaps and hey presto!

ibq44vH.jpg
 

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I don't think the Velcro noise will be any problem as they are being located by the snaps. So they won't have any lateral movement thus no tearing noises. Great work and you are on the final stretch. Look forward to seeing more of it!

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