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TK-42430 requesting ANH Stunt EIB status [NE][402]


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  • Name: Ron Lenzi

  • TK ID: 42430

  • FISD Forum Name:  Maxsteele
  • Garrison: Cloud City Garrison
  • Armor = NE
  • Helmet= ATA
  • Blaster= THG Props
  • Height = 5' 10"
  • Weight = 170
  • Boots = Bass Amsterdams painted white
  • Canvas belt = TKittel
  • Hand Plates = NE (ABS)
  • Electronics= N/A
  • Neck Seal = Darman
  • Holster = Mosi (Marc from Cloud City Garrison)

 

Front

 

l2Jd13d.jpg

 

 

Left side

 

BgznkJw.jpg

 

 

Left side arms up

 

57x4v9f.jpg

 

 

Back

 

jDQ2inn.jpg

 

 

RIght side

 

dlOuNcT.jpg

 

 

RIght side arms up

 

37rVU17.jpg

 

 

Action

 

UZNAGTm.jpg

 

 

Bucket Off

 

9MTf5Bk.jpg

 

 

Left side detail

 

KmWXfkw.jpg

 

 

Right side detail

 

SUurOD3.jpg

 

 

Ab Detail

 

VxhUi6p.jpg

 

 

Cod - Butt plate attachment

 

tiW5lp6.jpg

 

 

Interior Strapping

 

fwDtZLS.jpg

 

 

Belt

 

BpMYgvZ.jpg

 

 

Holster Attachment

 

uJvdsax.jpg

 

 

Sniper Left Side

 

n83K8CK.jpg

 

 

Sniper Right Side

 

aP7x4co.jpg

 

 

Thigh Battery Pack Left Side

 

uqv0d1k.jpg

 

 

Thigh Battery Pack Right Side

 

Obj7KK0.jpg

 

 

Thermal Detonator Back

 

RAXwRCT.jpg

 

 

e11 Left Side

 

6GYbJ1r.jpg

 

 

e11 Right Side

 

0WKsgFh.jpg

 

 

e11 D-Ring

 

pvehbRH.jpg

 

 

Neck Seal

 

3y24Bfy.jpg

 

 

Helmet Front

 

JQUa1wk.jpg

 

 

Helmet Left

 

bb7ji4d.jpg

 

 

Helmet Back

 

k37cHCN.jpg

 

 

Helmet Right

 

MXPrATM.jpg

 

 

Helmet Hovi Detail

 

16JEnnr.jpg

 

 

Helmet Green TInt Lens

 

slJcvfA.jpg

 

 

 

 

Thank you for your time and consideration!

Edited by maxsteele
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Looks good sir...Only recommendations I can make would be is adding a snap to the top right side kidney plate and a black rank bar on the ear piece of your helmet. CRL has those for centurion level though. Also, putting straight edges on your TD clips and us slot screws as well. (those were couple of recommendations on my application)....

 

Good luck Ron!

Edited by Slangen
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Thanks Steve!  You just pointed out that those pics of my helmet were from before I painted the screws white and put the rank bars on my helmet!  It was late when I posted these and I missed that.  I'll take new pics of my helmet tonight and replace those.

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Impressive! Most impressive!

 

Ron, it looks phenomenal! You have very little to do to make Centurion next!!! You should be very proud!

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Well done Ron. Yeah, it threw me a bit - some helmet pics have painted screws, some not. Some armor pics have painted rivets, some not. But they are probably more for Centurion though. Just make sure you get the right pics for that application.

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Well done Ron. Yeah, it threw me a bit - some helmet pics have painted screws, some not. Some armor pics have painted rivets, some not. But they are probably more for Centurion though. Just make sure you get the right pics for that application.

 

Yep, sorry for that confusion.  I was trying to get everything consistent on my EIB pics.  The full body shots I took before I painted the rivets on the ab/kidney and thigh.  Hence the close ups out of armor showing those painted.  I was hoping that would be ok for submission photos.  The helmet I can easily re-take photos with the painted screws and rank bar, but doing a complete suit up again just to show that I have rivets painted was a little too much at the moment. :)

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Hey Ron! Fantastic looking build my friend! And I love the large clear photos. Makes it very easy to see all the details. Most things I noticed have already been mentioned. If you plan for Centurion (I'm sure you will be with this great looking armor) You will need to add a split rivet to the cod piece and 2 male snaps to the butt plate (where the cod/butt plate attachment is) Glad to see that you painted your ab/kidney rivets and your thigh pack rivets white, as they were not painted in the initial photos. The only area that is kind of distracting to me is the gap at your wrists. Dropping your forearms a hair will eliminate it. Also for Centurion you will need rubber hand guards glued/attached to your gloves and also 1/4 inch white elastic bands on your shoulder bridges if they aren't already there. And I think I see them but hard to tell from the photos if the black elastic arm bands are present. The hand painting on your helmet (traps and tears most noticeably) is FANTASTIC! Well done. Overall a very clean build. Most impressive! Best of luck with your application and your future endeavors. :jc_doublethumbup:

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Thanks Zixx for your extremely kind words!  Thank you for the notice on the helmet painting.  I do not consider myself artistically-minded at all, and I kept track - it took me over 20 hours of painting to get the results I have.  I am fortunate my patience paid off.   :)

 

I will absolutely get the rivet / snaps installed, as well as the elastic bands to hold down the shoulder bridges in the back.  Yes, I do have the black elastic arm bands.  You can see one of them on my right shoulder in my action shot.  

 

I mentioned in my build thread that I'm going to "take a break" working on this armor, as it took me almost a year to get to this point. :)  I do promise to go back to it and get those details added for a Centurion application.

 

The forearm gap is a puzzle for me.  I was struggling with getting the proper elastic positions between the forearms and the biceps, and I found a few builds that gave some good measurements.  I feel the distance between the top of the forearm and the bottom of the bicep is at a really good spot, and I have full range of movement when I bend my arms with no armor pinching.  Dropping the forearms would certainly require pulling up the elastic and re-gluing them, and I have a concern that I'd lose my mobility.  The gloves I have certainly bunched up at the wrist end of my forearms, but I believe that happened in part to my biceps' / forearms' lack of connection to my shoulders.  I went with the "free float" method, and I'm currently gluing in bicep hooks, which I did not have for these photos.  I'm hoping those hooks will keep my forearms more stable, which will lower the attention drawn to the gap at the gloves.  I've also seen commentary which said it's better to have a gap at the wrists than a gap at the elbows.  This might be a case of exactly that.   :)

 

I'd also like to figure a way to keep my glove ends tucked nicely under my forearms so that bunching is minimized / eliminated.  I haven't seen any mention of how people handle that, or if it's even a problem for others.

 

EDIT:

 

Something that may be making that gap at the wrist end look larger are my handguards.  I do not have them attached to my gloves.  I'm using elastic glued inside them and sliding them over my gloves.  It looks like they're not back as far on top of my gloves as they should be, which is the only distance comparison the eye has to go on when meeting up with the wrist end of the forearms.  I think one of the first accessories I need to get are the flexible hand guards and get them attached to my gloves.  That may resolve my gap issue right there.

 

EDIT #2:

 

I'm not fully suited up, but I believe I fixed that wrist gap.  I got the hand guard to sit in the proper location on my glove, I tucked my glove into the sleeve of my undershirt to keep it from bunching out, and I have my bicep held in place with a hook around the shoulder elastic.  It's not the best quality, but I think you can get the idea:

 

61NV243.jpg

Edited by maxsteele
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I find if it permits, I put my gloves on first then slide on my forearms. This helps pull the gloves upward and alleviates the bunching. That last photo in your most recent post looks great.

Edited by Zixx
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Hey Ron! You finally made it! Your long journey has brought you to your EIB application! Although everyone has been watching your build (except local news) let's take a look at it here!!!

CRL and EIB Application Requirements:

All required submission photos (and then some) have been posted. Congratulations on a great set of very well built armor which has all the required elements to qualify for EIB!! With that I would like to welcome you to Expert Infantry!!

 

Other-Armor Fit/ Assembly:

This is the section where myself and your fellow troopers provide suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. These suggestions will not affect your application outcome.

I wouldn't pull too much of your hair out regarding the bit of extra glove you have showing near the wrist. No two humans are built the same; neither are the armor kits. What the concern I am sure you were focused around was not having too much gap at the elbow. You did it right. If this means a little more glove shows....so be it. It seems like your second entry shows you have solved that nicely. Most will tell you that with gloves AND hand guards on, your hand won't fit through the wrist opening. It's a pain but it's what us troopers need to endure.  

Anyway, nice upgrade pics of your painted rivets on the ab and thigh pack. It just blends better and is needed should you shoot for Centurion. I wonder if it would be an idea to trim a little off the outer most edge of your sniper plate. It looks like this might dig into the side of your knee or get snagged. Trust me, you don;t want your sniper plate getting snagged!post-12041-0-44445300-1407467596_thumb.jpg

Other than that, I really don;t have much to say. Well done!

 

Centurion Suggestions:

Honestly, I was surprised to see the few things you left out of your build that would instantly put you into Centurion land. As a few have already pointed out: Your cod rivet, your butt plate crotch area male snaps, rubber/flexible handplates, upper right side ab plate male snap are all things that are needed to the base armor.

Next is something I might get flack for because it is something that actually would affect basic approval. The overall length of the thermal detonator should come in at between 7 1/4- 7 1/2 inches. Your looks long to me. Then I saw the pic of it on your work mat. If the squares on your work mat are 1 inch increments, that puts your detonator at around 8 inches. Your control panel looks correct. It's the space between the end caps and the control panel that looks big to me. Typically, this gap should be in the 1/2 inch range maybe a LITTLE more but not much. Yours looks more like an inch. I know you want to make the tops of those clips flat, too!  ;) gallery_12157_51_33329.jpg

Congratulations again, Sir!!!

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