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TKedt

glue vs velcro

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is it possible to velcro  both sides of the thighs and legs rather to glue them. I am trying to use the least amount of glue period,also. any tips on making the thighs and legs thinner? I have a small frame and I am getting a standard AP armor.

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Hi TKedt, I am also small framed and have ordered an AP, it was recommended to me as suitable for us thinner guys, but unless you are extremely lucky, it seems all armour will require modification to suit your build, height etc.

How long is your wait for the big brown box to arrive?

 

 

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If you choose to use Velcro rather than the metal "U" hooks for the closure on your calves, that should be the only Velcro on your armor. ( your belt has some but I am talking the plastic parts)

Glue is the only way to make the parts sit flush when finished. Glue is your friend. If you are nervous, stick with E6000 then if you make a mistake it is reverse able.

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Hi TKedt, I am also small framed and have ordered an AP, it was recommended to me as suitable for us thinner guys, but unless you are extremely lucky, it seems all armour will require modification to suit your build, height etc.

How long is your wait for the big brown box to arrive?

 

 

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 5 weeks . but i want to get everything together before it arrives. I have a fiber glass kit now and It is sized to me. I can use the parts as templates for the new armor. I never worked with SBS before so I am asking questions now. I hope that sbs is easy to glue. fiberglass is the worst material to work.

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Cool, this is my first build, and hoping to see my box in 4 weeks fingers crossed, and same here with getting everything together in the mean time. It's exciting having stuff turn up in the post every week. Good luck with your build

 

 

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Hey Ed, as Steve said above, glue (E6000 in particular) is your friend - especially on a first build, in my opinion. I'm working on my first build right now, and I can tell you that the ABS is pretty simple to work with. The best advice I can give you is to have fun, be patient, and sand the glue locations a bit for a better seal of the glue.

 

Good luck!

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I have to agree with the comments above, E-6000 is your friend. You just need a little patience and be sure to clamp eveything for 24 hours.

 

 

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Hey Ed, as Steve said above, glue (E6000 in particular) is your friend - especially on a first build, in my opinion. I'm working on my first build right now, and I can tell you that the ABS is pretty simple to work with. The best advice I can give you is to have fun, be patient, and sand the glue locations a bit for a better seal of the glue.

 

Good luck!

does the home depot sales E6000 (sounds like a robocop character)? I

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Yes. Home Depot, Lowes, Michaels and most hobby stores carry it. I grab mine at Michael's with their 40% or 50% off coupons. E6000 works great with ABS. Be sure to sand the areas lightly and then clean/dry before gluing to help with the bond. Fear not. E6000 is very forgiving.

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Yes. Home Depot, Lowes, Michaels and most hobby stores carry it. I grab mine at Michael's with their 40% or 50% off coupons. E6000 works great with ABS. Be sure to sand the areas lightly and then clean/dry before gluing to help with the bond. Fear not. E6000 is very forgiving.

most be Darth's favorite

Zap a gap and kicker its the emperor

 

I was thinking about getting both glues. Do I have to leave the clamps overnight using t6000? 

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most be Darth's favorite

Zap a gap and kicker its the emperor

 

I was thinking about getting both glues. Do I have to leave the clamps overnight using t6000?

 

It takes 24h to cure. I had been unpatient and parts did unglued

 

 

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The white e-6000 is thicker, not as runny. You really only need to leave clamps on for an hour or two, but you do not want to add any stress for at least 12 hours. I have added snaps using the white e-6000, and then trooped without issue in a 12 hour window. 24 hour cure time is best and safest way to go.

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I used e-6000 with my whole AP build and it worked great. You'll be happy you use it when you have to take pieces apart. The only problem I had was with the shims on the front of the shins and I had to use CA glue because of the curve in the shin.

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Clamps, magnets and blue painter's tape go hand in hand with Erin to help during the curing period. Try to leave it alone for 24 hours as the one time I got anxious is the only time my piece did not adhere correctly.

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If you feel the need to use ZapaGap/ZipKicker, TrooperBay has some great videos on YouTube.  My buddy and I have watched them a few times each.  Great slow tutorials. 

 

Ken

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Anyone use ZapaGap for their entire build -?

 

 

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I wouldn't depend solely on Zap a Gap as it can become brittle and break apart. Also, should any repair or adjustment be needed later you are unable to separate the pieces safely and easily.

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What's the rush anyway? E-6000 All the way.

 

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I have direct experience in the "super glue vs e6000" debate.

 

I had some small gaps in my finishing strips on my biceps.  I used superglue to close them.

5 months later, I realized my biceps were too big and I had to take them apart.  If it had been straight superglue that I used, I would have had a problem taking them apart without damage.

Fortunately for me, it was superglue over e6000, so when I did pull the pieces apart, I was able to scrape away the e6000 that the superglue was dried on top of, and take apart my biceps nicely to cut and re-glue them with e6000.

 

e6000 is great stuff, holds well, and comes apart when you want it to.

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E6000 FTW!

 

From experience, I used superglue with zip kicker for some of the parts that I thought, "I won't need to undo that". Eg: Snap plates inside my armor. Only to find out the snaps didn't work. I had to grind the plates off. Fun job! Next the cover strips on my thighs. "They're right I won't need to undo that". Out comes the angle grinder again. Slice in half, grind off the cover strips..... Good thing about ABS, anything is fixable, but with E6000 it would have been soooooo much easier.

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Good to know on all accounts. Was at a build party and watched them zap the shims in the legs and arms.

 

I'm thinking the E6000 sounds like a much safer bet on a first build...

 

 

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E6000 is great and you have to give it time to cure. For some reason here in Japan, e6000 does not cure well in 24 hours so I wait out the whole 72 hours recommended on the label. I sometimes let it sit another day. Takes a lot of time but worth the wait and as everyone says it is forgiving and can be removed.

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