Plasticarmyman88 Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 So I finally got some time to actual work on my L2A3 deac kit from UniqueCanes that I bought a while back. This was how I recieved it. (pic from previous post) Thankfully the folding stock saw none of the horrible BATF torch cutting. So after realizing I had two options as far as restoration, one option being the purchase of a steel receiver tube with a bonded template and mating the parts from my kit with the pipe, but I didnt want to lose the bayonet lug flat area, and I remember seeing a thread on here from a bit ago where a Wiselite Sterling was used to cast for parts, but the Wiselite Sterlings were built on bonded template pipes, and had no bayonet lug flat area, so that option was a no go. After trying multiple approaches, I ended up sliding the bolt into the 3 pieces that touched in which the bolt was housed, and it worked splendidly! The bolt is Loctite 2 part epoxy'ed into the reciever housing, and look! A military acceptance insignia, guess it must have seen some war time!? After coming down off of my 3 piece assembly high, i realized that the front and rear portions were not dependent on anything internally to mate them correctly. I tried a few things, but I took a piece of 1.25" PVC pipe and heated it so i could manipulate it, and placed it while heated into the receiver and clamped it to gain the shape and dimension of the inner receiver diameter. After that, the PVC coupler got a very very very light coat of WD40 so it wouldnt bond to the metal inside the receiver when i epoxy'ed it. I used JB Weld SteelStick to fill in the gaps of missing metal as a result of the torch cutting. The front segment of the receiver with all of the vent holes was harder because the torch cutting had removed so much of the metal. I basically repeated the steps from patching the rear, but this PVC coupler would stay in place and be drilled, not that big of a deal considering the T-Track should cover up most of it. I was looking at alot of the Deac Sterling build threads on here and noticed that when the receiver is reassembled, its done so with less than valiant effort, resulting in a droopy looking receiver that seems to bend down on the ends. Had to double check So pardon the Bondo mess, I used the Glazing Spot Putty to refine all of the small pin holes from the QuickSteel Folding stock sanded/primed. End cap sanded/primed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark PWF[Staff] Posted May 1, 2014 Report Share Posted May 1, 2014 I am continually amazed at the number of ways in which we see the "same" thing being done here at the FISD. Very interesting project! Looking good to me so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usaeatt2 Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 NICE!!! What Tim said too...just when I think I've seen every possible way to make a Sterling, along comes a new method! Excellent work keeping the receiver straight - I spent extra time getting that alignment just right 'cause nobody wants a crooked gun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 Nice approach with this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sve5mh[TK] Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 looks amazing...thanks for the post i cant wait to see more! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 I have a scope and counter I'd sell if you need a set for casting up. PM me if you're interested in a really rare and good set. nice job of making up the receiver! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkno Posted May 4, 2014 Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 I'm always amazed at how ugly they can cut up a deact. Sterling, and how a telented maker can create a great E-11 out of it. Very cool!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sskunky Posted May 4, 2014 Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 Well executed so far. Looking forward to seeing more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plasticarmyman88 Posted May 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 The work continues...... My make shift spray painting laboratory Filler primer is my best friend After priming and wet sanding Masking off the parts of the receiver that weren't going to get "texture" So im attempting to replicate the "wrinkle finish" texture. Found this at Home Depot, it's Rustoleum multi-color texture Close up of the cap and it's "texture" First coat of "texture" on receiver, folding stock, and end cap. Close up First pass of flat black Still have some work to do paint wise, so stay tuned guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plasticarmyman88 Posted May 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 All I could get in today thanks to another afternoon New England monsoon :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usaeatt2 Posted May 4, 2014 Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 SWEET! The masking and texture paint approach is very likely how I will finish mine. Why? I like the wrinkle finish and there have been some spectacular examples recently, but I simply like the texture finish better. Grippy!!! Nice work Zach! I also like your paint lab! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark PWF[Staff] Posted May 4, 2014 Report Share Posted May 4, 2014 Looking good, Zach!! I have a similar paint lab. LoL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plasticarmyman88 Posted May 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Picked up a set of 6 8" film canon extruded rubber T-Track off the custom saber shop for $20, they were a little on the softer side so pre-installation they received a coat of matte clear coat to stiffen them up a tad, and they come with adhesive already on the underside so installation was a breeze minus the measuring, which was nice because I didn't have to boil any water or burn the life out of my finger tips. I'll give them the rest of the night to cure and shape with the help of an elastic rainbow then do some fine gluing in the morning. Sight rail is in the works for tomorrow after class. Depressing since the sight rail will be the last of the building process until funds are available to pick up a real M38 and counter 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark PWF[Staff] Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Looks real good, Zach. Well done indeed!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usaeatt2 Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Sight rail is in the works for tomorrow after class. Depressing since the sight rail will be the last of the building process until funds are available to pick up a real M38 and counter. That's EXACTLY how it goes for me. I enjoy the building part more than anything and when it's done, I'm depressed that I didn't spend more time on it. I built a Harley a couple years ago, and ran out of things to customize - so I sold it. I'm curious about the rubber T-track and how it compares to Marv's T-track. Does it bend or compress when you grip it or is it a hard rubber? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plasticarmyman88 Posted May 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 It felt very similar to say a wiper blade but a little on the stiffer side and after the coat of matte clear there was still enough give to make cutting and installing not too challenging but flexibility was drastically reduced post matte clear coat. Plus they have the bevel on the inside of them so there was no battle when mating the surfaces unlike resin ones that don't have the rounded bevel so when gluing they fit like a dream unlike flat non rounded ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 end cap and front sight are not supposed to be textured. also the grip sleeve is also supposed to be smooth. nice job so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sskunky Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 That could be debatable Vern. My whole L2A3 is smooth with no texture whereas my last one was textured. Depends where and who made it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sskunky Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Picked up a set of 6 8" film canon extruded rubber T-Track off the custom saber shop for $20, they were a little on the softer side so pre-installation they received a coat of matte clear coat to stiffen them up a tad, and they come with adhesive already on the underside so installation was a breeze minus the measuring, which was nice because I didn't have to boil any water or burn the life out of my finger tips. I'll give them the rest of the night to cure and shape with the help of an elastic rainbow then do some fine gluing in the morning. Sight rail is in the works for tomorrow after class. Depressing since the sight rail will be the last of the building process until funds are available to pick up a real M38 and counter I have real abs t track if you want some. Seems a shame to use rubber when the proper stuff is about. Especially on a real sterling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 I have real abs t track if you want some. Seems a shame to use rubber when the proper stuff is about. Especially on a real sterling. Original t-tracks were ABS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sskunky Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Yes, extruded through dies. It was door runner for sliding doors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Good thing to learn I'll shoot ya a pm if i ever need ones then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usaeatt2 Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Yes, extruded through dies. It was door runner for sliding doors. Mark, are yours different than Marv's? I have a set of Marv's T-track, but I'd like to use whatever is most accurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 There's some good comparison shots about the different t-tracks sources on this thread (but unfortunately, sskunky's ones aren't there): http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24735-anh-hero-e-11-requirements-for-centurion/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sskunky Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Marvs are accurate. We prettying found the stuff at the same time. It's the only off the shelf stuff that's accurate today. Gino will tell you his are more accurate but his were made using photos as reference. It came from the UK to start with and ours is from the UK. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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