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Elleerre's ATA build


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First - the ears look great!  We all want to get this perfectly flush fit with our ears, however - gaze upon the ears of some of the actual screen-time helmets:

 

 

gallery_12157_11_601680.jpg

 

 

gallery_12157_11_28924.jpg

 

 

gallery_12157_11_577753.jpg

 

 

These aren't distant shots either.  These troopers were right up next to the camera.  I believe that last shot is even a Hero helmet!

 

 

As for your teeth, I think you can go wider, but when you get to this point, it becomes how satisfied you are with them.  Here's what my teeth looked like when I was finally done fretting over them:

 

FJQfiZQh.jpg

 

 

 

 

Here's a wider shot of my assembled helmet with an initial installation of the mic tips before I painted them:

 

XygF0kch.jpg

 

 

 

And here's what the teeth look like once I painted them:

 

gVp7RF8h.jpg

 

 

 

 

You can see that the spaces between the teeth look much bigger once they're painted.

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Thanks Ron, its a relief to know I don't have to play around with those ears anymore...

^_^

 

I think I could make teeths a little bit wider.

 

And what's your advice about the HOVIs drilled through?

 

Thanks,

Lorenzo

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I'm not sure what you're trying to do different with the mic tip area.  I had drilled a single hole through each side to put the mic tip screw through, and then fastened the washer and nut on.  The plastic the bolts go through is pretty thin, and I have seen people reinforce around that area with glue inside the helmet.

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I've found a system to attach the mic tips while having a hole passing through at the same time, to have more air circulation inside the helmet.

 

Basically it's to take away the screw from the mic tip, drill a hole through and attach it to a holed support that's already attached to the helmet.

 

I know, it's a bit tricky, and my poor english doesn't help, sorry... maybe it's better to take a picture of the assembly parts...

 

;)

Edited by elleerre
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I wouldn't be surprise for it to be a show-stopper for Centurion. It would certainly alterate the mic tips outside look when looking at them (basically you should become able to see-trough them).

 

For example, this Centurion has been asked to removed his Mictips w/ Speakers for the approval because of the altered outside look:

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24314-tk-8145-requesting-anh-stunt-centurion-status-91-rs/

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1.jpg

 

2.jpg

 

3.jpg

 

Here is my idea:

the ribbed part will be chopped off in line with the tape (ribs will be sanded away too)

the drilled mic tip will be glued into the part, that has the same finished diameter

on the helmet will be made a 13 mms hole to make the thread pass through

the bolt part will be closed against the helmet fixing all togheter

the ribbed part of the bolt could be left or taken away, it depends on the use

 

This could be used for ventilation or to make cables for comms pass through

 

All the assembly will be 2 mms away from the original position without any other intervention. Could be 1 mm away if you mill a bit the inside of the ribbed part

Edited by elleerre
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I wouldn't be surprise for it to be a show-stopper for Centurion. It would certainly alterate the mic tips outside look when looking at them (basically you should become able to see-trough them).

 

For example, this Centurion has been asked to removed his Mictips w/ Speakers for the approval because of the altered outside look:

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24314-tk-8145-requesting-anh-stunt-centurion-status-91-rs/

 

 

I see...

 

Ok that was only an idea... ^_^

 

By the way it's a completely reversible modification with standard mics, only the holes on the helmet will be bigger.

Edited by elleerre
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That's how i imagined you would do.

The only question is: When the mod will be over, will the outside aspect be the same than if you wouldn't have done it? If yes, then it should be no problem for approval.

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Quite the same. At a deep look you'll notice the mic will finish straight against the helmet, instead having the last ring with a smaller diameter.

 

A further modification could be to cut away the last ring on the mic, modify the threaded part to have only a matching ring and glue the two parts together.

In two words to have a mic with a hollow threaded base. This will be unnoticeable to anyone.

 

The problem is that if you look inside the mic that is white, you'll clearly see the hole, and I don't know if it will pass a certification inspection.

 

By the way not a problem to put a standard mic in.

 

:duim:

Edited by elleerre
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You really wont need any extra air though the mic tips, you get plenty around the base of the neck, a couple of squirrel fans will help to stop fogging and allow air circulation ;)

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You really wont need any extra air though the mic tips, you get plenty around the base of the neck, a couple of squirrel fans will help to stop fogging and allow air circulation ;)

 

I was thinking the same thing, actually...

 

Sorry, I was "gadgeting" too much...

 

:lol:

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You really wont need any extra air though the mic tips, you get plenty around the base of the neck, a couple of squirrel fans will help to stop fogging and allow air circulation ;)

Absolutely agree with Glen.

Also there will be less the ventilation but more the hole for the sound when you talk. I think you anyway will need the I-comm or romfx voice changer for trooping, so your actual voice will be heard through that holes. The frown and fans are enough for ventilation for my opinion. 

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Thanks for the advice Alexey.

I looked a lot your build before starting mine, and took a lot of inspiration from it and it's detailed pictures!

 

;)

Edited by elleerre
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