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Hengstler number readout


gazmosis

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I found that after some looking around:

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/20982-resin-hengstler-counter-mod/

 

Or if you want i can make them for you ?

e.g:

00050911.png

 

I like to have the last two numbers golden but i think it's not accurate so i can make them white too. And also remove one number as i think there is only 6 figures and not 7.

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actually the yellow numbers are not on most brass eagle counters. the yellow numbers are mostly on the aluminum counters

that are not as rare.  if you want the most accurate you should go for 6 black digits.

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the most accurate for a brass counter is 6 black digits. the counter you show is a steel one with a plastic connection box and those were not used in star wars

 

it's just like the smooth sterlings.. those were not used in the films.. and shaver wires with ton's of curly thick wires.

I like to compare this type of thing to the FX helmet... heheeeee!

 

bumpy sterlng, real bolt colors. inner rear spring counter with 4 loop wires. eagle counter with black digits and a brass front connection box.  if you want to replicate the firing models.  if you want to replicate a resin cast background stunt blaster you will need to have no rear cocking channel, a solid black counter with no wires and no front pins. and no inner

details at all.  the bapty demils are with solid aluminum rear channels no trigger, a strip of steel for a guard

no counter and no wires.

 

it all depends upon what type you're making

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392
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So.....the counter pictured above has white numbers on a black background. I need black numbers on a white background?

I am making what hope will be a cool E-11 asked on the British Sterling SMG. I am not focussing on a particular weapon other than a functional Sterling.

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black refers to the background of the wheel and white is the correct color for 4-6 digits.

some early brass eagle counters have 4 digits separated by squares.

 

you should be fine with the printout from the above set he shows in photos as long as you use

no yellow numbers.

 

the yellow numbers I consider to be non cannon because the counters with yellow numbers are generally not brass eagle's with

brass connection boxes.

 

I'm sure that having yellow numbers is not really a rule.. it's just derived from my understanding of

steel counters with plastic boxes in the front.  since no brass counters with brass fronts have had yellow numbers.

 

out of the 10 or so counters that I have owned the only yellow number versions I've ever seen were not brass at all.

and since we see brass weathering we should make the logical assumption that a correct SW counter

 

there are several kinds of eagle counters-

 

considered used in star wars due to the brass showing though

  • brass one screw, large eagle no words 4 and 6 digit all white numbers with black background numbers
  • brass 2 screw eagle with hengstler words imprinted 6 digit all white numbers with black background numbers
  • brass one screw eagle with hengstler words imprinted 6 digit all white numbers with black background numbers

Large eagle

sQHrnq7.jpg

iLtuCJi.jpg

 

Eagle with words

3TwKFuq.jpg

fBaHr2M.jpg

 

considered not used because the front connection and the counter itself have no brass

  • steel eagle with black connection box 1 screw with words imprinted white numbers with black background numbers w 2 digits yellow background
  • steel eagle with black connection box 2 screw with words imprinted white numbers with black background numbers w 2 digits yellow background

 

shown is the black with white numbers

ommrbVc.jpg

DZ1CMfg.jpg

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I have written an entire blaster book called the e-11 databank.... soon I'll populate it with ton's more information.

 

I have photos of the bapty stuff... london prop store stuff... original sterling designs showing the smooth versions vs the

bumpy ones... and I have photos planned for all the counters listed above.

 

in fact I still have 3 in my collection that illustrate the plastic connection box, and the eagle with words in brass

and the large eagle brass.

 

soon I'm going to have molds made of all 3 different types.

 

I also have 2 types of M38 scopes to cast up as well.

 

 

http://bondservnt.wix.com/the-e-11-blaster

 

Vcin7vy.jpg

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After all that.........back to build business! Look!!!! I actually glued a part on!!!!! 2 in fact!VE1eu9c.jpgWith that setting up, I thought I would move onto the counter.Mh9Ei5L.jpgA big thanks goes out to UK Simon for working up the number display for me in the TK number of the guy who's blaster this is going to be. Germain also offered up a display, but Simon's was closer to the real font of the numbers. Thank you, though Mr. Horseman!!! I know, Vern, I know, there were no yellow numbers!!! I just thought it looked cool so I went with it. ANYHOO!!!! I printed out a measurement image to get the right placement of everything on the backside of the counter and the display.6rZQAt2.jpgFirst thing was first, I needed to make the glass insert. I started with a 3/16th piece of plexiglass.qR1I0jl.jpgI marked it to approximate size and cut it down.QylV3Yn.jpgI needed to shape the top into a domed shape so I brought it to the belt sander.RzTz2CG.jpgAfter removing a good portion of my fingers on the belt sander, I took over with 180 grit to further shap it. 4rLfU5W.jpgOnce I was happy with the shape, I began the polishing process. I started with 180-220-320-400-600-1000-rubbing compound on the Dremmel polishing wheel at the lowest speed, to polishing compound with the same wheel. I like the outcome.ulg0RRn.jpgHere it is over the number display.WWbwn8M.jpgNow to fit it properly. More a little later

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this is a great representation of the shape of the lens on the doopy part... yet the lens might be

just a tad smaller in size and it actually is quite flat.  and the lens fits inside the rear cap and has a really

flat profile.

 

the large curve you have (and I must say looks great!) represents the doopy do "recast tell" design where he

makes certain parts larger or out of place from an original part.

 

the doopy changes the screw locations on the body and the size of the rear lens as tells.

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Damn, that's so well polished :P ! The outcome is really great, the guy you're building the blaster for will be very happy for sure!

 

And no offense about the numbers, i do admit Simon's ones are far better than mine!

Edited by The5thHorseman
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also... did you ever notice that the logo on the doopy do counter is not an eagle?

it's called the H logo 819 counter..  model 400... but a later year design... post war.

 

not used in star wars.

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Thanks again, Germain. As for the height of the lens profile, I am cutting a recess into the back of the counter for the lens to sit into. Once it is recessed, it will have the correct profile.

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  • 3 months later...

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