chadder[TK] Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 Hey everyone,I have an ATA kit that Im going to gry for centurion. Its pretty much trimmed (thanks to ALL of your amazing builds, threads, etc) but have a couple of questions I haven't seen anywhere:1. Thermal detanator cap width. I've seen 3/4", 7/8" and pics of screen used that look closer to 1". Anyone have the definitive answer? Also, I've read some use flat primer, some use semi-gloss. Which is most accurate?2. Also seen photos of actual prop shins from the front (attached) that show the outside of the right calf is lower than the inside? Is this how I should trim them? Or should I make them even at the bottom? I'm sure I'll have more questions coming. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 Don't go as wide as one inch. Stay in the 3/4-7/8 range but the overall length us mist important. You should be at 7 1/4- 7 1/2 inches when done. As for the shins, it's up to you if you want the outsides a bit lower. It actually looks good as it covers the elastic on the boot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper[TK] Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 The ATA right outer calf has an ankle that's too long. Just match it in length with the other side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 Very useful pic to follow when building a thermal detonator : Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chadder[TK] Posted January 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 (edited) Thanks guys! Next question: Can you suggest a good link to show how the lower legs are supposed to be constructed in the back for the new centurion requirements? I inherited ATA armor that has the overlap with Velcro method. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free Edited January 15, 2014 by chadder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 (edited) Shins do kind of overlap in the back: (pic of a left shin) You can see the cover strip glued on the half with the hooks, and then when you set the hooks in their eyes, the outer half and the back cover strip overlap the inner half. Edited January 15, 2014 by The5thHorseman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chadder[TK] Posted January 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 Let me see if I get this...I would keep Velcro on one side ridge (where it is now) but remove the velcro from the inside of the other ridge (which is how my armors previous owner did it) and instead glue one half of a 20-25 mm finishing strip to the other ridge and put Velcro on the back of the other half of finishing strip so it connects and the finishing strip looks normal and in place. Right?? Whew... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 I guess you can just leave the velcro as it is right now if it fits you well, but just glue a cover strip on the back of the outer half to make it looks accurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK_LEPER Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 (edited) Original caps on the detonators were 3/4", but most people eyeball it at about 1" I wouldn't do anything more than a semi-gloss on the detonator. the original pipe wasn't very shiny. Edited January 15, 2014 by TK_LEPER 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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