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TK-42311 requesting ANH Stunt Centurion status [ATA][86]


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Name = David Steinweg
ID = TK 42311
Garrison = Florida
Squad = Tampa Bay Squad  :peace:
FISD = piklz36

Armor = ATA
Helmet = ATA, hand painted by my lovely wife, no templates or decals
Blaster = Hyperfirm E-11 ANH, with D-ring added and scope mod

EIB Application = http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23506-tk42311-requesting-anh-stunt-eib-status-ata311/


Height = 5'11"
Weight = 180lbs
Boots = TKboots
Canvas Belt = Trooperbay (with mod to the width (now 2 7/8"))
Hand Plates = Karin's white rubber
Electronics = none . . . yet?
Neck Seal = Trooperbay
Holster = self-made (build thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23643-making-a-holster-for-anh-stunt/)


Alright, here we go. :smiley-sw013:     A big THANKS to all who have given me advice so far.  


Front Full Body:




Back Full Body:




Left Side:




Left Side Detail:




Right Side:




Right Side Detail:




Ab to Kidney Buttons (Split rivets around 8mm diameter):




Split rivet backs before I covered them with fuzzy velcro pieces:





Separate Butt and Kidney:




Hand Guards:





Shoulder Bridge Back:




Shoulder Bridge Front:




Back to Chest Connection:




Thigh Pack Attachment (it's a cap rivet):




Sniper Knee Plate:






Drop Box Backs:


(I'm aware that these should be attached via a white elastic loop and 1 rivet.  If that stops my Centurion approval, I'm more than happy to change it.  I just don't have the white elastic right now, and if it really doesn't matter then I'll leave it the way it is since no one sees the back of the boxes). 




Cod and Butt Attachment:




Split Rivet on Cod before I covered it with fuzzy velcro (because that could certainly leave a mark) :laugh1: :




No Return Edge on Forearms:




Black Elastic on Shoulder Bells:




Helmet Front:




Helmet Left:




Helmet Back:




Helmet Right:




Hovi Mic Tip:




Lens Color:








Blaster Right:




Blaster Left:








Neck Seal:




Thermal Det:




Holster and Attachment:






Hand-Painted Ab Buttons:




I think that covers it.  Please feel free to give me any feedback, criticism, critique, whatever.  I'm all ears when it comes to the suggestions you all give. 


Thanks, again.


TK-42311  :salute:



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Looks good. But I think the black stripe on the ear should be on the last bump in the back, not in front. But not sure.


And maybe you need to tone down the brass on the scope.


But nice build :duim:

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Nice armor!

You´ll soon be Centurion :duim:


Looks good. But I think the black stripe on the ear should be on the last bump in the back, not in front. But not sure.


And maybe you need to tone down the brass on the scope.


But nice build :duim:

There´s nothing written in the CRL´s concerning the position of the rank stripe:



For level three certification (if applicable):

  • MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmets are not allowed.
  • ANHv2 helmets are not allowed.
  • Ear bars shall have only one or two bumps painted in black (rank stripes).
  • Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile.
  • Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details).
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Looks like a great build! Your probably maxed out in Height for ATA though judging by some of the gaps..the hand-painted details look great! Although the tube stripes look a little thick and slightly arrow-shaped but I could be just nit-pickin.. ;)  Good luck on your approval :)

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There´s nothing written in the CRL´s concerning the position of the rank stripe:


Thats why I said I wasnt sure ;)

But I have never seen anyone from ANH with the stripe on the foremost bump, so thats why I let him know about it ;)

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I'm going to go out on a limb and say that the ear stripe needs to be fixed. Nowhere in ANH do you see the stripe in the front.


And while you are at it you might want to trim some more off the ab and kidney sides as there clearly is some outwards flare that are part of the mould rather than the ab, as well as replace the drop box webbing with white elastic.

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Thanks for all of the replies!  I'm shocked that you all have liked the quality of the build. 


The rank bar repaint is no issue at all. 


I assume Locitus is referring to the maybe 3mm on the ab plate in the detail picture of the 6 ab/kidney rivets?  I'll see what I can do about this.  I'm already pushing the gap size.  Too many beers I suppose   :P   


I do have a little concern about replacing the drop box nylon with elastic.  I've glued the drop box back securely into place.  In other words, I currently have no access to the other side of the drop box backs.  Anyone have a good idea how I can drill out the rivets, then back the new rivet with a washer, without ruining the drop box backs?  


Thanks for all of the help so far.

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With your sides you do not need to worry about taking off a a few more mm to get a cleaner build.


As for the drop boxes, they aren't experiencing a lot of pressure so you shouldn't need washers. I know it's courtesy to use them, but realistically you shouldn't need them. Also consider using the looped elastic while you are at it. And I just noticed the webbing on the shoulders that you might want to replace with elastic as well. It's more comfortable (and accurate), I promise. ;)


You might also want to give the curve around the crotch a pass with the sand paper. It looks a little rough.

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No worries.  Thanks for clearing up the drop box issue.  I might cut a small hole on the top of the drop box back to retrieve the old rivets and washers.  It'll be covered up by the elastic. 


I'll smooth out the cod too.  Hahaha.  Nothing like sanding a cod piece down!  :laugh1:


As for the webbing at the shoulders.  I'll pick up some wider, white elastic when I get the elastic for the drop boxes (and another box of snaps, hahaha).  I've been having trouble keeping the chest overlapping the ab plate.  I have a pretty low range of motion with my upper body because of the chest plate slipping up and off of the ab plate.  I tried to lengthen the webbing straps, but it just lowered the back plate.  Maybe the forgiveness of the elastic will help that situation too? 


Thanks again, man.  I appreciate your patience with us noobs.  I certainly don't have a super-trained eye for the details yet.  


I should be able to get most of this done over the weekend. 

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Your pictures don't show, but if you haven't already, make sure to add some elastic with snaps inside the torso between the ab and chest (I put mine right below the "boobies" inside the chest, and at the top of the ab) and strap those to together. It'll help with keeping the chest in place when you move.


Good luck :)

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I switched out the drop box webbing for a loop of elastic (secured with 1 rivet):






Smoothed out the curve on the cod:




Replaced the webbing shoulder straps for 2" elastic:




And, here are the straps that attach the chest to the ab plate.  I've shortened them slightly to (hopefully) help prevent the chest from sliding off of the ab:





Should I take another round of suited-up photos for final clearance?  Thanks again for all of the help.  I'm pretty proud of my first build.  On to working out my wife's Juno Eclipse situation.   

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Alright, we finally got a sunny morning, so here are some more pictures. 


The drop boxes are much more "free" to roam around with the elastic instead of the webbing.  They now want to sit more "up front" than they did with the webbing.  Do most troopers secure the elastic loops to the canvas belt in some way?  Or let it be free?  I've just noticed that they tend to migrate as I move around in the armor.  


The chest plate is holding much more securely than it was before.  I shortened the straps that connect the chest to the ab, and switched the elastic out for a stronger version of elastic strapping. 


The elastic (instead of webbing) shoulder straps are much more comfortable.  Thanks for bringing that to my attention, Mathias.










Left side:





Right side:




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Thanks, Jeremy.  Not to shoot myself in my own foot, but I'm a bit concerned about the new drop box positioning.  Most of the screen shots I've seen have the boxes positioned way more to the side, almost on the hips of the trooper. 




The above screen shot illustrates my point.  Just referring to the 4 fully visible troopers in the front line:


The one on the left is close to where my drop boxes are.  Notice that the trooper is also taller than most of the rest.

Left/center is way out on the hips.

Right/center is further into the center, but still out on the hips more.  Trooper is tall.

Right is way out to the side too. 


I've noticed that the plasitc portion of the screen troopers' belts extend at least a few inches further than mine on each side.  In other words, the plastic part of the belt is longer on the screen suits.  I suppose it could also be that I am wider than the 70's troopers.  Perhaps it's a combination of both a wider body, and a shorter plastic belt section? 


Look at the troopers behind Vader asking that rebel scum a few questions:




They are also way out to the side.  But, the trooper on the far right is more centered. 


I have seen 501st troopers who cut an oval out of the elastic holding the drop boxes to accomodate the rivet holding the canvas to the plastic.  This way the boxes will sit a little further out on the hips.  Perhaps that is the way I need to go?


Perhaps I'm digging too deep into this?  I don't know.  I obviously just want the costume to look as good as possible. 



Edited by piklz36
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If you have secured your belt to your Ab with snaps, it should prevend the boxes from moving around, if you make soure to keep them on the "outside" of the snaps. That way they are cought between the rivet in your belt and the snap ;)

And the 70's troopers where a bunch of anorectics :P

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Nice.  Okay.  I wondered if it was still accurate to glue/stitch/etc the elastic to secure its position.  A dab of E6000 should do the trick.  Thanks so much for the advice :salute:

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Hmmm.  Alright.  Thanks for responding Arnie_DK.  I'll continue to look into it before I make any changes.  I really appreciate the head's up.    

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