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jmm7375's ANH Stunt RT-MOD Build


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Ask and you shall receive...Here is a pic of the inner shim I used for the forearm.  Basically the small piece that I cut off of the overlap was used after trimming the ends.  May not look pretty, but it works.  I included a bicep shot too.  These were larger shims since I trimmed more bicep to fit my body.

 

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Hey there! I wanted to jump in and actually lend a hand here. I don't know if you are going Centurion or not but one thing that will help IMMENSELY with the scraping of the hand is removing the return edge on the front of the forearm like it calls for in the CRL. Once I did that and sanded it down it was amazing the difference.  :smiley-sw013:  Here are pictures:

 

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Now, I did this with an Xacto knife and a sanding block BEFORE they were assembled but with some careful work I'm sure you can still make it happen.

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Hey there! I wanted to jump in and actually lend a hand here. I don't know if you are going Centurion or not but one thing that will help IMMENSELY with the scraping of the hand is removing the return edge on the front of the forearm like it calls for in the CRL. Once I did that and sanded it down it was amazing the difference.  :smiley-sw013:  Here are pictures:

 

IMG_20130625_100611_zps11766a79.jpg

 

 

IMG_20130625_100619_zps55f4ed3c.jpg

 

 

IMG_20130625_100627_zpse2526f54.jpg

 

 

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Now, I did this with an Xacto knife and a sanding block BEFORE they were assembled but with some careful work I'm sure you can still make it happen.

 

I did something similar, but trimmed back the edges with my Lexan scissors. I cut far enough back to remove any trace of a return edge. Then sanded it smooth. All before assembling, of course.

 

IMG_20130618_093507_476_zps78be091e.jpg

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Thanks for the feedback Tony and Sean.  I was under the impression that I didn't have any return edge on my forearms and Rob had said he would take care of that upon trimming my kit.  It is always easier to trim back then add, but before I start breaking out the sanding block (I'm sure I can slowly sandy it down even though it is complete)  I'll post a picture of both forearms to get more opinions.  Strangely I only scrape my left hand getting it out of the forearm.  :huh: 

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Thanks for the feedback Tony and Sean.  I was under the impression that I didn't have any return edge on my forearms and Rob had said he would take care of that upon trimming my kit.  It is always easier to trim back then add, but before I start breaking out the sanding block (I'm sure I can slowly sandy it down even though it is complete)  I'll post a picture of both forearms to get more opinions.  Strangely I only scrape my left hand getting it out of the forearm.  :huh: 

 

If you compare the "front end" (the part of the forearm piece that touches your wrist) pieces in your photos and mine you will see a slight "lip" on yours, that's what a return edge is and what scrapes you.

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I think I can get rid of the slight lip you're talking about Tony.  Wouldn't mind others making comments here.  Regardless an easy fix, but here is an example of mine below just so others can compare what you got and what I have.

 

Interior forearm:

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Exterior forearm:

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Looks like you just used the trim job Rob did, which has a slight return edge. I literally could not get my hands in and out without trimming mine back, so yeah it will be more comfortable.

 

Fitting my forearms was hilarious. I would tape them on to a proper fit not leaving gap on the upper forearm and then just laugh thinking to myself, "How in the **** am I supposed to get my hands in and out??" Then I remembered the Centurion level calling to trim the return edge and well, that was actually my first big cutting job EVER on a kit. That kind of took the edge off the nerves. Xacto knife, sanding block and dremel sanding drum.

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Sorry about the blurry pics, but the originals I took are no different.  I'll get to work on the return edges since I do want to go for Centurion eventually when I am done.  I will certainly post the correction once I make the correction.  It is my first build, so forgive me all, I hope I didn't mislead anyone.  I love the feedback!  Thanks guys!

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Sorry about the blurry pics, but the originals I took are no different.  I'll get to work on the return edges since I do want to go for Centurion eventually when I am done.  I will certainly post the correction once I make the correction.  It is my first build, so forgive me all, I hope I didn't mislead anyone.  I love the feedback!  Thanks guys!

Misleading? How so? Noooooooo my post was only meant to lend a hand on how I cut down on scraping our hands while also pointing out the benefit of trimming the return edge to get a jump on Centurion. :duim:  We are all learning here, sir! This is my first build as well! You have some fantastic looking progress and I'll be referencing your thread when I move further on my armor!

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Have any of you gotten vader Dave's AB buttons!? Was just wondering how well they look on an RT mod armor before I get them

I actually did buy a set of them, but haven't decided if I want to use them yet. Didn't Darth Aloha use them in his build? Can they be used for centurion?

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Thanks for all the encouraging words guys!  I was really unsure if I wanted to do a build thread at first, but now I can't imagine not.  It really is a lot of fun and a great challenge.  Intimidating at times, but with such fantastic support from so many people all over the globe on this forum, it is truly inspirational.  I hope to work on those return edges on the forearms tonight a bit, definitely by the weekend.

 

Jesse:   I originally considered the AB buttons myself, but once I decided I wanted to go for Centurion and I would need to paint the helmet, I saw no reason not to paint on the buttons, which you can see above.  I was fortunate enough to get a hold of some CD labels that I could cut up, but I'm sure you can use the bottom of a marker or some kind of cap to get a good circle for a masking tape template.

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Call me obsessed, ambitious or psychotic, but I hate to do things wrong.  So I know I would have lost sleep if I had not corrected the returned edges I accidentally left on the front of the forearms.  Fix was easy using some sandpaper, circular motions and a dremel sanding bit to get those hard to reach areas.

 

To get an even edge I tried to work with gravity and essentially use my work table as a sanding block.  I used slow circular motions to remove the return edge by putting gentle pressure downward at first and then increasing pressure as needed.  I used fine grit sandpaper (sorry I don't know the #) so I wouldn't take off too much.  Thankfully I lined things up pretty good initially, so I got what I think is a nice clean edge with no return.

 

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Looks good and with those nicely rounded corners on the strips you won't catch on anything :)

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Call me obsessed, ambitious or psychotic, but I hate to do things wrong. So I know I would have lost sleep if I had not corrected the returned edges I accidentally left on the front of the forearms. Fix was easy using some sandpaper, circular motions and a dremel sanding bit to get those hard to reach areas.

 

To get an even edge I tried to work with gravity and essentially use my work table as a sanding block. I used slow circular motions to remove the return edge by putting gentle pressure downward at first and then increasing pressure as needed. I used fine grit sandpaper (sorry I don't know the #) so I wouldn't take off too much. Thankfully I lined things up pretty good initially, so I got what I think is a nice clean edge with no return.

 

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Looks great! It had to have helped with the scraping of the hands as well, right? :D

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Thanks for the positive feedback!   Yeah, I should have mentioned that I no longer rip the skin off my hand.  It still is a bit tight, but no skin loss is a big plus :duim:   I want to get my TD done next, then I have to convince the wife to help me size up my shoulder straps, and the crotch strap.  She always gives me a look when I ask her to help me with my crotch...I wonder why?

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So, I don't have pics of the disaster, but I had to remove the face plate for my TD and redo it.  I couldn't find a way to get the ends to sit flush, and I killed a lot of time scraping E6000, re-painting, and rethinking.  I should have test fit everything, but I didn't.  Plus, the paint added some thickness to the end where the caps go on, and some more sanding was needed to get everything to fit right.  So, with the use of some magnets to hold the face plate in position and some clamps for more pressures, I used my little workbench that can act as a vice to get the ends to sit flush.  I'm giving it the full 24 hrs. to cure since I don't want to risk another re-do.  I'll take my time with the end caps, but I will have to drill some holes for the hooks I made and attach those before I affix the end caps.

 

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Since I had some time on my hands, and my wife decided to take the kids to the movies (no crotch fitting today  :()   I went ahead and added some snaps to the chest and back plate for the shoulders.  I've never trooped before, but in hindsight it seemed like a good idea to have some extra snaps here.  Placement may be a bit unusual, but I didn't want to rip and re-do, just reinforce.

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TD complete

I feel like I gave birth to this thing.  I really am happy with it since I started it in November and now it is finally done.  It took me a bunch of tries to get the aluminum clips right, get the pipe down to size, paint it, get the faceplate/control panel to sit correctly etc.  The endcap on one side is a little wonky, but if you are looking at it, it is totally fine (I think).  I must have angled one side better than another since one endcap sits evenly all the way around and the other just would not.  I also had several trips to hardware stores to find pan head screws that ultimately I had to paint black.  For chicago screws and pan head screws locally in the U.S. I totally recommend Lowes.  I always struck out at HD and Ace which of course were much closer to me geographically. :6: 

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ANH forearms are actually not true round they are squished a bit. This helps get your hands in and out. Here is a pic TM posted to show what I mean. His suits are like this.

 

You could do to yours what I did to my CFO (which being cast from a real ROTJ suit that was stored flat for years the forearms were not quite the shape they were 30 years ago). Which is heat the end of the forearm in boiling water making sure not to let it touch the sides or bottom of the pan. Then pinch it to the shape you want and run cold water over it to set it. Saves the angst of a heat gun or the pain of armor bites.

 

Here is what the elbow end of an ANH forearm looks like which should help you get the shape right.ANHforearmopening.jpg

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Thanks for the tip and the pictures for reference Frank.  After trying on the armor for the first time, getting dressed and undressed, I will definitely modify my forearms openings to make life a little easier getting them on and off.  I always end up squeezing them to the shape you referenced to help remove my hands anyway.

 

Now what I've been waiting for...suit up time!

 

Armor Photos

 

Full body front

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Full body back

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Full right

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Full left

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Right side detail

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Left side detail

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Armor details

 

Gloves and hand guards

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Shoulder bridge backs

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Thigh pack attachment

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Sniper plate

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Drop box back

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Cod and butt attachment

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No return edge on forearm

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Helmet details

 

Front

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Left side

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Right side

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Back

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Hovi mic detail

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Lens color

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Blaster details

 

Right

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Left

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D-ring

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Accessories details

 

Neck seal

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Thermal detonator back

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Holster attachment

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Action shots

 

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Interior strapping

 

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So, that's what I've got so far.  I'm in the process of getting my application going to be an official member of the 501st and get my TK#.  Please don't hesitate to chime in with feedback.  I already plan on making some minor comfort adjustments that shouldn't impact the look at all (foam in forearms to prevent wrist bite, left thigh needs some foam too).  I've got my "bucket" list ready so I can paint it and get it ready for Centurion status.  Definitely need some fans in the bucket, and I am working on electronics as well.

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I'm on a mobile but it looks like you might want to round off the bottom corner of the thigh ammo belt more.

 

Also the waist belt should have the corners cut at a 45 degree angle. It's hard to tell but I think yours is not.

 

 

Overall great build!

Edited by rhapsodyred99
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Thanks for the feedback Frank.  It may be difficult to see on your phone, but I did round the bottom of the thigh ammo pack, just not sure how much more to go.  Also, I did trim the corners of the waist belt 45 degrees (holster attachment shows it), but not drastically since I wanted the trimmed corners to match the width of the canvas belt.  When you get a moment, take a look on your computer just to be sure.  Should be relatively easy to make those changes if need be.

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