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My NE build


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Yeah I can chime in:

 

For ANH stunt approval it is necessary to use flat lenses ( Have a look at the CRL http://www.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt )

 

There are definitely no approved stunt Centurions with bubble lenses.

Believe me: You need to change those lenses for flat lens material ;)

 

The rest is looking good.

Although I always start with the outer black lines when painting the details, yours are looking good.

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Don't forget to taper the frown. You're missing the last two grey areas. It's not supposed to end "square".

 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

 

 

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Anyone know a good way to totally remove paint?  Paint thinner?  Magic eraser and goo b gone?  The black outlines on the vents came through a bit thicker than I want, and I think it would be easier to start the tube stripes on the right from scratch instead of trying to clean them up.

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Do i need to cut out another hole before I paint the last tooth on either side? Or just paint the extreme corners and leave the white plastic between the last teeth and the ones I need to paint in?

No, leave the teeth as they are, just paint the last pieces grey. Look at reference images in our photo gallery (link up top).
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Anyone know a good way to totally remove paint?  Paint thinner?  Magic eraser and goo b gone?  The black outlines on the vents came through a bit thicker than I want, and I think it would be easier to start the tube stripes on the right from scratch instead of trying to clean them up.

 

 

piklz36 posted a link on how to remove paint from a helmet on page 1 of your thread.  Here is the link again: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19815-dry-paint-removal-the-right-way/?hl=%2Bpaint#entry242105%C2%A0

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Use the same thinner as the brand of paint you are using. It won't harm the plastic. One other thing I noticed are the metal clips on you detonator should almost be touching the outer caps. Yours are a bit too centered. Just take your time painting the black outlines and details on your helmet. There is a big difference between the "hand painted look" and a total mess.

Edited by gazmosis
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One thing that helps me with the knee plate is I took a piece of 1" foam and place it behind the top of the shin. I didn't even glue it in. After I put on the shin, I just shove it down in the top and its enough to keep the sniper plate from catching on my thigh.

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Overall good. If you decide to apply for EIB or Centurion, a suggestion to replace the ears when the NE maker has their replacements ready.

 

Also, the tube stripes look a bit too long.

 

Good luck on your approval.

 

And congrats on finishing your build.

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Thanks, those ears were a pain. I wanted them to go up to the trim, but there was just no way to make that happen. I may redo the tube stripes, not sure yet. Is there a recommended length? Any ideas on how to fix them without totally redoing them?

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Looks like you're almost ready. However to me it looks like your left thigh still needs some adjustment to fit right - seems it's not sitting on you correct. It's certainly rotating outboard. I think if you fix that, you won't have as much of an issue with the sniper plate.

 

Can't wait to see your EI submission :)

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Is there a link to approved submission pictures anywhere? I'm aware of the EIB and Centurian boards where they post submission pics. I've also read the guidelines for submission pics. I'm just looking for something I can pass on to my photographer so they can see what a set of approved pics would look like. I'm just going for regular TK stunt approval. I did search but came up empty. Feel free to post your approved pics here on my thread.

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You said, that you already found the centurion section. So take a look at the succesfull submissions ( those got a number) and use the photos as a reference for your photographer. Somewhere there was also a thread about "perfect" submission photos.

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