DroidHunter Posted November 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 I agree Keith. Just had to take a step back and look with fresh eyes. Gotta break the Dremel back out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DroidHunter Posted November 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 Is it OK if the holes in the ear don't match up with the marks on the cap? I really trimmed down the ear (perhaps too much) and my left ear (right as you look at it) measures up a little forward and below the mold marks. I have seen some pics if movie buckets and that ear seems to sit a little low with a slight counter clockwise turn. Mine will as well. Will post pics shortly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rugbyrat Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 Post pics Bill! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DroidHunter Posted November 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 Like this one kind of... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 Looks very good, why worry? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DroidHunter Posted November 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 Looks very good, why worry? Fear of messing up the most visible part of the build! Seriously though, I appreciate the feedback. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rugbyrat Posted November 17, 2013 Report Share Posted November 17, 2013 Like this one kind of... Agree - this looks fine. Quite good actually! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DroidHunter Posted November 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2013 That's a relief. I attached it last night and will post pics later. Don't know how to do it from the phone. I put the top screw in and it wasn't sitting right so I took it out and drilled again. Everything is covered by the ear but if I had to start anew, it would be a bit swiss cheese like under there. I will post pics with the top 2 screws in a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted November 17, 2013 Report Share Posted November 17, 2013 Now that you are to the final stages of the ear, I would recommend picking a final resting spot and marking it. This will make sure you are fitting the ear to the same spot on the helmet with each tweak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DroidHunter Posted November 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2013 (edited) I couldn't find anything thin and long enough to so through the hole in the ear to mark the cap. I should have just outlined the ear itself. I finally ended up using a toothpick that I dug into a crayon. I then used the small bit of crayon on the end to mark the second hole . Edited November 17, 2013 by DroidHunter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DroidHunter Posted November 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2013 final shot of ear with 3 screws. If the gap is OK, then on to the next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DroidHunter Posted November 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2013 (edited) Is this correct as far as which set of templates goes on which side of the helmet? Edited November 18, 2013 by DroidHunter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rugbyrat Posted November 19, 2013 Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 The tube stripes point to the back like a closing parenthesis )))))))))))))))))))) Are you handpainting? Awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DroidHunter Posted November 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 Are you handpainting? Awesome! Yep. I figure, why not go all the way. I can't paint for squat, but I'll give it a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxsteele[TK] Posted November 19, 2013 Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 Is this correct as far as which set of templates goes on which side of the helmet? I believe this template is set to go on the side they are when you look at your helmet, as you have it laid out in this pic. So in this case, the template on the left goes to the "left" side of the helmet when looking at the helmet (which is the actual right side of the helmet), and the right template goes on the "right" side when looking at the helmet (which is the actual left side of the helmet). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DroidHunter Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Thanks my friend. I appreciate the advice. I am having trouble with the second ear because the face plate and cap back don't fit together at all on that side. I don't want to rivet anything down right now but am considering putting a second screw about 2 inches below the first in order to pull the pieces together. Any reasons why that might be about bad idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rugbyrat Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Pictures please! You don't want anyone to visualize the issue and provide a solution, only to find out that their idea is different than your problem! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 The way you have the templates is the way they go on the helmet. Trooperbay prints them out like that to make it easy. I don't know what method you are going to use for paint application (brush, airbrush) m=but make sure all the edges are smoothed out around the strip openings or you will have bleed under them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DroidHunter Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 (edited) I don't know what method you are going to use for paint application (brush, airbrush) m=but make sure all the edges are smoothed out around the strip openings or you will have bleed under them. I plan on painting them by hand, so I will take care to make sure they are as flat as possible. I also saw a post that recommends painting the tube stripes white first in order to seal any possible bleed points in the template. Pictures please! You don't want anyone to visualize the issue and provide a solution, only to find out that their idea is different than your problem! Here is the gap I mentioned. Just wondering if I should put another anchor point (that will still be under the ear) in order to help with the mounting process. I would trim the cap back more in order to get rid of the molding ridge, but then it won't overlap the faceplate. Edited November 20, 2013 by DroidHunter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rugbyrat Posted November 21, 2013 Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 I think the earcap will cover that and pull it in. I would suggest mounting the earcap and seeing if it is still an issue. If it is, you can remove the ear and add an extra anchor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted November 21, 2013 Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 definitely put another rivet someplace on that seam. The helmet halves will want to pivot constantly if you don't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DroidHunter Posted November 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 (edited) I mounted the top two screws after finishing about 90 percent of the ear trim. Overall, the ears are ok, but still need some work. On the left ear as you look at the helmet, I plan to trim more around the front of the upper section (red line) in order to close the gap at the cheek area just above the tube. Then I am going to bolt the face and cap along the edge of the tube under the ear in order to bring the two section together. Hopefully that will pull the front gap along the tube closer in. Eventually I plan to rivet the parts together and cut down the screws along the inside, but not until after the lenses and the painting is done. Edited November 22, 2013 by DroidHunter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DroidHunter Posted November 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 When painting the traps, do most people mask off the area (assuming templates are not purchased) or simply paint free hand? Seems like tape would be necessary in order to get those nice straight lines. If so, is there a recommendation for either blue painter's tape or sign vinyl? I have a large sheet of vinyl I am going to use to make my own templates for the trap stripes, and just wondering if that would be better to use than tape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted November 23, 2013 Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 You need to use some sort of masking tape because of the curved edge around the trap perimeter Of course you could always hand paint it if you are feeling controversial. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DroidHunter Posted November 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 (edited) I finished up both ears and mounted them with 3 screws each. I also went ahead and used a second screw assembly to anchor the left side of the cap to the face. This made the ear fit better. So, the right ear has the gap in the front and the left ear has a gap in the back. The question is, will this pass approval? Let me know what you think. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk Edited November 23, 2013 by DroidHunter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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