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Xus Kenobi

Xus Kenobi Stormtrooper Build

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Thanks for pointing out the split rivets! I had another look at the CRL and other reference material and I tweaked my setup a little:

 

I undertand the three split rivets were what actually held the pieces together on the original suits, however the CRL states they don't need to be functional. I feel the split rivets holding the pieces together would undergo a fair ammount of stress, thus making it easy for the plastic armour to actually break at these points (I imagine that is why the CRL says they don't need to be functional) So my previous pictures should be OK, however I would not be able to access the rivets once everything is glued into place.

 

So I took a different approach looking at the snap diagram found on one of my previous posts. After marking the position of the split rivets 10mm from the edge, 15mm from the top and the bottom and 60mm from each other so they are equally spaced and doing the same on the other part of the armour, it seems like those 60mm in between rivets are perfect to hold the elastic connections! So it seems like this layout should work perfectly, making the split rivets merely decorative and allowing me to access the split rivets in the future if needed while the actual connection and support goes to the two elastics in between the rivets.

 

On the image I placed everything on the outside but it will go on the inside so that only the three split rivets are visible:

 

No hay ninguna descripción de la foto disponible.

 

No hay ninguna descripción de la foto disponible.

 

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Since I need to pick up some split rivets tomorrow, I figured out I could continue working on the connection between the kidney plate and the butt plate since they are more or less independent from the rest of the armour.

 

First of all I placed the male snaps on the crotch. They are marked 20mm appart from each other but I didn't find any reference for the distance to the edge (marked in pink). Looking at reference pics It seems as if it should be about the same 20mm as the snaps, but that's just by eyeballing the position on a picture. Any specific measurements to consider here?

 

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Next I lined up both pieces using the bump in the middle as a reference and keeping both pieces flush, then placed the middle connection and marked its position. Does the distance from the edge to the first male snap on the crotch look good on this picture?

 

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From there, it is just a matter of placing at equal distances the side connections. This will be done onche the middle is glued in place. Here is a rough mock up of how it will look.

La imagen puede contener: interior

La imagen puede contener: interior

 

I feel quite confident to glue the middle connection and place the male snaps on the crotch area! Should I go ahead? Any last minute corrections?

Edited by Xus Kenobi

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I personally like to have the side connections a little closer to the ends, it can help stop the butt plate from flaring outwards ;) 

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As Glen said, and you might not want the kidney plate overlapping your butt plate at the waist.

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If you have your canvas belt perhaps once you have the side all connected you can post up an image of those parts on you. This way we can clearly see if the kidney and but will overlap and flare out at the ends. Those straps do look a little short but wearing it will reveal all.

Keep up the great work Jesus.

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Noted! Looks like the torso really needs to be fitted before gluing anything into place! I was hoping I could glue the snaps on the parts and then just fit it using the connection elastics!

 

In that case, I will try to fit everything before connecting the pieces together on the torso!

 

Here are some update pics on the split rivets and the arms:

 

First of all here are the split rivets in place, equally spaced and perfectly lined up! I was quite afraid of this step but it seems to have turned out great!

 

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On the inside, they allow enough space for the connections to be placed in between the rivets:

 

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And since the split rivets are a little long (8mm head and 13 mm long) I figured out I could build myself some supports in order to reinforce the area around the split rivet and give it some proper support to avoid it dancing around. I just cut some 20x20mm squares of ABS from my scrap pieces and glued them together, then marked the center and drilled a guide hole before drilling the actual hole for the split rivet. These supports will be glued in place and once glued, I will do the final installation of the split rivets.

 

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No hay ninguna descripción de la foto disponible.

 

On the other hand, I went ahead and prepared all the female connections for the arms, and mocked the layout of each one in order to make sure every connection point is properly placed:

 

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La imagen puede contener: texto

 

The yellow connection would join the shoulder bell to the shoulder strap joining the chest and back plates.

The orange connection would be for the biceps elastics. I decided to go with snaps for these so they can be repaired or substituted easily if they lose their elasticity or they break at some point.

The green connection joins the shoulder bells and the biceps on the outside. I know this one didn't exist in the original suits, but it seems safer to have it. On the inside, I will use the "Han hooks" once everything is in place.

The blue connections would join the forearm and the biceps on the inside.

 

So it seems as simple as gluing all the female snaps into place and then fit the armour to my arms using the length of the elastic connections!

 

As you can see, I am planning on gluing the female snaps a little distance from the edges. 

 

La imagen puede contener: una o varias personas, personas sentadas y calzado

 

How is everything looking on the arms?

Edited by Xus Kenobi
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27 minutes ago, Xus Kenobi said:

How is everything looking on the arms?

Se ve bien,  !!

looking good !! :jc_doublethumbup:

 

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Coming along nicely, the forearm elastic could come around a little more, it's more towards the top of the forearm which helps keep them straight after moving your arms ;)

 

QEYSyP2.jpg

 

wAsSFKP.jpg

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OK so I've been working on my armour so here are the last advances I've made!

 

First of all, I had a look at some reference pictures to place the male snaps and rivet on the crotch area, I measured on a picture of a suit which kind of resembled the shape o f my armour:

 

vtPH9tm.jpg

 

So I marked everything and placed the rivet and the snaps. The rivet is brass and the snaps are silver:

 

QBvg1Kn.jpg

 

Rivet in the crotch area of the ab plate:

EGY64qp.jpg

 

Snaps on the crotch area of the butt plate:

q1QL7pI.jpg

 

8fGcmlj.jpg

 

I also reinforced the area around the snaps on the left side on the ab plate and the kidney plate and glued it into place:

 

zl4Zurb.jpg

 

umNy7Iv.jpg

 

aPALaNY.jpg

 

mpQAt9q.jpg

 

Next I placed the snap on the top right corner of the ab plate:

 

apd1L1k.jpg

 

p7oEirV.jpg

 

While everything was drying on the ab plate, I cracked on with the chest and back plates and placed the snaps where the shoulder elastics will connect:

 

h5ogMNz.jpg

 

h88wwQD.jpg

 

And I also added the elastic around the shoulder bells to brace the biceps:

 

56RJaXa.jpg

 

So It's been a productive couple of build sessions!

 

 

 

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And since the moment to start assembling all of this is coming near, I went ahead and test fitted the armour on again to make sure everything aligns properly!

 

First, I got the chest overlapping the ab plate the bare minimum to cover the vertical line coming out of the button plate on the ab. This way, both pieces accomodate properly at the crotch and the neck/shoulders.

 

n4KD0S2.jpg

 

The ab plate and kidney align very nicely at the sides, the split rivet holes also align properly and good news: I won't need any extensions! Once the canvas belt is in place everything will square up nicely.

 

4f0HbZQ.jpg

 

2ORxNtM.jpg

 

As we saw a couple posts back, since I am tall, the back plate is going to take some extra care to place correctly, so I will place tha back as the last piece to make sure it looks good in relationship with the rest of the torso!

 

60k7m3h.jpg

 

Last but not least, I tried the arm armour on and I think it's starting to look like something!

 

IaiJzCn.jpg

 

dmHZlTn.jpg

 

So right now I am gluing more snaps into place to start connecting all the pieces together!

 

TwvDLhM.jpg

 

Looking good right? I0m really happy seeing it all come together!

 

Edited by Xus Kenobi
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Excelente Jesús, el back plate lo puedes acomodar cuando pongas el Strap de manera que baje un poco mas y te recomendaría quitar mas return edge de las Shoulder Bells para ganar espacio y disminuir la brecha entre hombros y torso (L3)

 

saludos

 

Great work  Jesus, I think the back plate should fit better when make the white strap, I also would recommend to dismiss the shoulder bells return edge to gain more room and have less gap betwen Shuolder and torso as per L3 requirements.

 

cheers

 

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c9x2rMGZHZmq50OHyf4vZjSY1yC_vffRg4lDPUmu

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I think one of the reasons for the ab to kidney gap is that you are wearing the back plate a little too high,  The shoulder tabs on the back plate appear to be overlapping your shoulders a little more than normal, causing the center (O II) area to ride a bit too high.  Dropping the back plate down 15-20 mm or so would help eliminate the ab/kidney gap as well as put the O II plate in a better position.

 

7vwpzIl.jpg

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Thanks for the tips and comments! Noted! 

Here you have an update of the work I've been doing lately on my armor!

 

Since we had some guests at home and my workshop had to dissapear in order for it to become the guest room once again, I have been working on the smaller parts, such as the helmet and the thermal detonator.

 

First of all, my helmet was partially done, and most of the outer work was finished (hand paint, assembly...) but the inside was a bit rough around the edges, so I took it apart, took off the lenses and mesh which were stuck with duck tape and started working on it.

 

A big shoutout to @Ales and the amazing tutorial on building the ATA helmet which I followed really close. A very clean and precise build!

 

First of all, I reinforced the area where the hovic mics go with some two part epoxy putty, since the plastic was pulled quite thin in the area. I just placed a nice blob of putty on each side and smoothed it out with my fingers. Once dry, I sanded the connection to the plastic until the blend between both materials was perfect and drilled the holes for the screw on the hovic mics to come through.

 

Before:

 

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After:

 

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While the epoxy was curing, I cleaned the inside of the helmet using a piece of paper and some alcohol and then wahed it with some warm water and dish soap to remove any dirt and grease. Once dry, I masked away the dome and the face plate of the helmet, including the ear holes, the frown and the eyes and airbrushed some matte black paint in thin layers on the inside of the helmet. 

 

La imagen puede contener: una o varias personas

 

La imagen puede contener: una o varias personas e interior

 

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La imagen puede contener: sombrero

 

Since I was going to get my airbrush out to paint the inside of the helmet, while masking I also cut out some new mesh for the frown. I use window screen mesh and I like it to be quite dense, so I cut two pieces, one with the mesh in a vertical-horizontal direction and one in a diagonal position. Since my screen is grey, I gave it a coat of black paint with the airbrush at the same time as I was painting the helmet.

 

La imagen puede contener: interior

 

Once everything was nicely painted and the coverage was good enough, I let it dry overnight before removing the masking and then let it sit in a well ventilated area for a couple of days so the smell of the paint would go away. After two or three days it is completely odourless and the finish is great!

 

Once everything was dry, I used some electrical tape to join the two pieces of mesh together and then stick it to the helmet. I also installed the hovi mics.

 

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It looks really nice from the outside! and with the balaclava and the black paint you can't see anything of the inside of the helmet.

 

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On the outside of the helmet, I took a moment to touch up the frown as @justjoseph63 suggested since I had a straight edge at the end instead of a pointy edge:

 

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So the helmet is well on its way to completion! The only tasks remaining are: Installing lenses (I want to install some screws in order to make them easily removable), cutting the screws to an appropriate length so they don't poke my face and placing the rubber trim at the bottom!

 

On the other hand, I went ahead and marked the parts for my thermal detonator following the reference material available in the FISD. There are several contradictions between different reference material, so I had to tweak some measurements a bit and decide which ones to follow. I assume this is because for the movies, they rushed to finish the costumes and this resulted in a noticeable variation in the measurements from suit to suit, but here is my take on the detonator:

 

I took these images as my main reference material:

 

TD%20measurements.jpg

 

3.jpg.56920400d96dfb44078e52ecd1a326f3.jpg

 

As you can see, there is a 6.55 mm difference between both reference images regarding the length of the control panel.

 

So following the  first image (since it's easier to trim a little more if needed), this was my first layout:

 

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After marking this, I checked with my local garrison and they suggested I went with 20mm for the end caps instead of 19 mm, according to some reference pictures of the RS suit:

 

2.jpg.37da50828caa993db66aa2aed2bc0153.jpg

 

This was the final product:

 

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La imagen puede contener: interior

 

So I went with a total length of 184 mm, using 20 mm for the end caps and 121 mm for the control panel. This makes the gap between the control panel and the end caps about 11,5 mm which is a little smaller than the reference picture, but this is due to the extra 2mm I added with the end caps and the difference between the 121 mm or 114,45 mm length of the control panel (depending on which reference material you use).

 

In conclusion, I think it looks great and the difference between the different reference material is only about 6 mm at most. Dividing this into two gaps between control panel and end caps, the difference is only 3mm on each side which I believe is a reasonable tolerance. I mean, nobody is going to notice a 3mm difference and it certainly does not bother me, since both the 121 mm and the 114,45 mm are actually screen accurate.

 

In any case, this will be glued with E-6000 so I can always come back and trim a little more if needed!

 

Now on to sanding the edges, painting the tube grey and gluing everything in place!

 

Edited by Xus Kenobi
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Some more work on the clips for the thermal detonator!

 

Today I cut some 25 mm aluminum strip to the correct size and marked according to specs both the guides for the holes where the screws go and the lines where the curves start and finish.

 

No hay ninguna descripción de la foto disponible.

 

Next I drilled the holes for the screws and shaped the aluminum strip as nicely as I was able to in order for it to conform to the thermal detonator and keep it nice and straight at the belt.

 

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Once I had both clips, I tested them out to check everything lines up properly and everything falls into place:

 

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As you can see, the clips are fairly vertical so they should line up nicely with my belt and my back armor, therefore, the bumps on the control panel should be paralel to the ground when I place it on my belt (perhaps some minor adjustment will be needed)

 

No hay ninguna descripción de la foto disponible.

 

So with all the pieces cut out and properly fitted into place, I marked their position so I can place them in their exact place again and took everything appart so I could sand the edges and mask the tube in order to keep some plastic showing for gluing the cap ends and the control panel. I also drilled a hole in the middle of the masked area to release the air trapped inside and reduce the air pressure when I glue the end caps. Then, I primed the tube in black.

 

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I will leave it to dry overnight and tomorrow I will paint the tube in the correct grey colour and glue the pieces together.

 

Regarding the thermal detonator screws, I have ones which are very close to the screen accurate ones, only a little more square. I will use a dremmel to round them a bit more on the head and paint them black, and they should be OK for screen-accuracy.

 

La imagen puede contener: una o varias personasLa imagen puede contener: una o varias personas

 

La imagen puede contener: una o varias personas

 

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Moving on to the belt I marked everything using some tape just to make sure the measurements are correct before cutting.

 

I took this diagram as reference, but I'm not sure about the edges:

 

32731777924_59b9a8c5c5_o.jpg

 

If you look at screen used suits, the button seems much closer to the edge, and my local garrison advised me to place the button 2mm from the edge which seems to fit the screen used suit in the reference pictures:

 

1.jpg.7f6f9d304090d3cb367b3d1ae2084ad7.jpg

 

 

I am not sure about the distance between the last box and the button that covers the snap on the sides, so let me guide you through my marking process:

 

First of all, the total height was cut to about 90 mm, that is leaving about 3 mm from the edge of the drop boxes. Next, I marked 45mm from each edge and marked the middle of the belt. Next, I marked the edge of the last ammo box and then marked the border about 1,5 inches (39 mm). Once the edge was marked, I measured 37,5 mm from the middle to make the edge 75 mm to match the size of the canvas belt and then marked the 45º at the edges. That is the edge completely marked .

 

Then, the buttons that cover the snap are 25 mm x 25 mm squares, so I marked 2mm from the edge and then 25mm, which leaves 10-12 mm to the ammo box (it's difficult to measure because of the curve from the thermoforming)

 

Does this look OK? Should the button be centered at 3/4 inch from the edge? Or should I move everything towards the ammo box and leave about 5 mm instead of 10-12 mm?

 

 

No hay ninguna descripción de la foto disponible.

 

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The middle was also marked by finding the middle to place the snap and then place the button in the middle between both ammo boxes.

 

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Overall I feel this layout is pretty good, so unless there is any major mistakes or measurements I am missing I think I'm ready for trimming!

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2 hours ago, Xus Kenobi said:

Does this look OK?

Hi , Great work mate. Yes Its looks ok. ready to trim.

 

here another reference pic.  Cheers

 

image.png.a136f8e3724d58bcf8d5dfd5e110f272.png

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