swmand4 Posted September 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 I finished the belt, finished painting (minus possible touchup), and started closing the shins. After spending hours playing with pop rivets and studying Lee's build thread and my PMs with him, I gave up attempting to replicate his method of attaching the plastic and canvas belts. Here's what I did instead. I used an extra cap rivet from the thigh ammo pack to attach a square of black canvas to the white canvas belt. Then I glued the black canvas to the plastic belt. Works like a charm with no awkward bumps. The two side connections are riveted with 1/8" pop rivets. The side pop rivets are secured as shown in a photo below, and covered by the recycled button covers that were cut off earlier. The belt assembly is secured to the ab plate via 1/4" screw posts. These are the same thing that secures the holster to the canvas belt. They're much sturdier than snaps. If I could go back, I would place them further up on the belt (towards the chest piece) as the belt tends to tilt downward when the screw posts are centered on the belt. The drop boxes are riveted with 1/8" pop rivets and use... 1/4" elastic, I think? I would definitely recommend going 1/2" instead. The 1/4" is a bit flimsy. Painting! I ordered some custom 1/2" diameter circular printer labels. These are the exact size of the RT-Mod button faces. They work great if you can properly align and secure them in place. Here's the process and outcome. If there's sufficient interest, I may sell off the remaining... 99 sheets of these things. They had a minimum of 100 sheets. I'm also not sure if all AB buttons are 1/2", so they may only be useful for RT-Mod. Something to look into. The middle grey button on the right has already been cleaned up. Rivets painted white. I might go over them again to even out the paint job. I know the original suits used brass split rivets for the cod piece. I had the same nickel ones I used for the left torso side, so I used it. I don't know if Centurion level specs the material type yet (I've heard talks of it), but I don't really want to replace it. So I painted it brass color! Close enough, I hope. Attached the D-ring to my hyperfirm E-11 (thank you again, Karin). I painted it black, and will edit in a picture later. Hooks for closing the shins. I was going to use the Dritz size 1 hooks, but they looked too small so I purchase some size 2's. Much better. These are on 1" white non-roll elastic. Most builds I've seen used three per leg, but that doesn't seem to be enough. I'm going use 4. I went ahead and cut off the inside overlap flap and drilled holes for my hooks. For my rear cover strips, I'm using 23mm. I know 25mm is most accurate, but I already had these cut. They were originally for the thighs, but I opted to use the same 20mm as the shin fronts. The other one is drying now, and over the next two days I'll be gluing in the hooks and straps. Once the shins are done, I think it's all details. Some foam for fit, electronics in the helmet, Novus polish and call it a day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swmand4 Posted September 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2013 Finished closing up the shins. I discovered that three straps would probably have been adequate after all. As it is, I have to leave the bottom two disconnected just to get my foot through. I think they close enough in the back that I don't need to modify them any further. Anyone have any thoughts? AND FINALLY, s full test fit! I definitely have some adjustments to do. The thighs kept falling down, the shins rotated, my bicep hooks kept catching on the chest plate, and the gloves are really unwieldy. But it was really cool to see it this far along. I think I'll try and use the Grease Monkey chemical gloves I bought; they're more form fitting and look better. Does anyone know if there is a diagram of the where most people install foam padding in the armor? I'm thinking the top front of the shins, the back bottom of the thighs, the top inside of the forearms, and a thin strip on the bottom front of the shins to prevent excessive boot rubbing. I know I forgot to take pictures of the sides and back, but I'm sure I'll be putting it all on again soon enough. Thoughts and feedback are always appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted September 26, 2013 Report Share Posted September 26, 2013 Yeaah! You look pretty good for a first full suited set of pictures! Good job! Keep improving it until it fits you like a second skin I love what you did with your shins, hooks FTW For your gloves, perhaps you could try to use glove liners underneath. And for the shins, i've padded them like that: And the popper at the bottom is linked with my boot to completly preventing it from twisting Otherwise, just pad it so it feels good on you. It depens on where you have room to fill or where the armor hurts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmm7375[TK] Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 Awesome progress Sean! Looks like you'll be ready to apply and get your TK# real soon. Oh, and is that a DLT-19 I saw in those pics? If so, sweet. A hyperfirm version of that one is on my wishlist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swmand4 Posted October 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 Thank you, Germain. I went for the closest to Centurion I could get on my first try with the armor (helmet, not so much). Your picture is actually very helpful for figuring out fit stuff. Just one issue: where do you even buy foam padding? Lee - that is in fact a hyperfirm DLT-19. I bought it on a whim, good investment. Thanks everyone for the continued encouragement! Now I just have to figure out how, exactly, to apply for my TK#. You'd think I'd have figured that out by now, seeing as I started this whole thing over a year ago... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clamps[TK] Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 ...Now I just have to figure out how, exactly, to apply for my TK#. You'd think I'd have figured that out by now, seeing as I started this whole thing over a year ago... this link outta help you sort that question... http://www.501st.com/databank/Membership:JoinUs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 Thank you, Germain. I went for the closest to Centurion I could get on my first try with the armor (helmet, not so much). Your picture is actually very helpful for figuring out fit stuff. Just one issue: where do you even buy foam padding? Originally the padding i use was something rounded. Then i cut it in half to have that semi-circular shape. It's kind of difficult to explain precisely what the original piece of foam was, even in french i would have difficulties! His purpose was to tuck in a armchair cover ! Usually you just find this stuff it by luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swmand4 Posted October 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 So, couple of things. I put padding in the shins, thighs, and forearms. Pictures will come later, but the armor fits much better now. I signed up for the GGG forums a few weeks ago, but still haven't had my account approved and activated. Does it usually take this long? And as I understand it, the 501st application process starts with getting approval from your local garrison leader, correct? And to do that I need to have a forum account? Kinda hard to ask for help from your local garrison when you can't get an account on their forums :/ I've also started polishing my armor with Novus plastic polish (numbers 1, 2, and 3 as necessary). Works like a charm! Pictures of this will also come later. Now my question is this: if I want to polish the helmet with JUST Novus 1 to make it shine, will the polish damage the brow rubber, decals, frown paint, etc. if it touches them or I go over them with my polish saturated wipe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clamps[TK] Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 I signed up for the GGG forums a few weeks ago, but still haven't had my account approved and activated. Does it usually take this long? And as I understand it, the 501st application process starts with getting approval from your local garrison leader, correct? And to do that I need to have a forum account? Kinda hard to ask for help from your local garrison when you can't get an account on their forums :/ You don't need a garrison forum account to apply for 501st approval/acceptance. Go to this page and scroll down to the "Submitting your Application" section. http://www.501st.com/databank/Membership:JoinUs Follow those steps and you'll be on your way. That said. Being in touch with your GML to give him/her a heads up is good too. I am sure there is a GML email address on your garrison home page. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Narc[TK] Posted October 20, 2013 Report Share Posted October 20, 2013 So... I just discovered something disconcerting. Apparently, RT-Mod shins are NOT identical. There are distinct left and right armor pieces. It's a very subtle difference in that the outside half of each leg has the calf bump slightly higher than the inside bump. I think we all know where this is going: I incorrectly assembled my shins and paired the outer halves together and the inner halves together. I don't think it's worth pulling everything apart and starting over as the error is very subtle and almost imperceptible if you aren't looking for it. This is more of an admission of a mistake and a warning to other RT-Mod owners. Maybe I'll contact Rob and get a replacement set of shins in the future if for no other reason than my own peace of mind. For now though, onward! How did you deal with the return edge on the shins at the top. I did butt and cover strip (on RTMod) too. Because Rob casts them for overlap, when I butt them together I end up with an ugly gap... Did you run into the same problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swmand4 Posted October 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2013 (edited) How did you deal with the return edge on the shins at the top. I did butt and cover strip (on RTMod) too. Because Rob casts them for overlap, when I butt them together I end up with an ugly gap... Did you run into the same problem? Keep in mind I messed up. I thought both of the shins were identical, so it didn't matter which of the same shaped ones went where. I noticed that one half has a return edge that goes all the way to the end of the overlap. I paired those two together and used that for my right shin. The other side has the massive gap in return edge, but doesn't matter because it's hidden behind the sniper knee plate. It works, but again it was the incorrect way to assemble RT-Mod shins. Since a picture is worth a thousand words, I will post one when I get home. Edited October 22, 2013 by swmand4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Narc[TK] Posted October 22, 2013 Report Share Posted October 22, 2013 Keep in mind I messed up. I thought both of the shins were identical, so it didn't matter which of the same shaped ones went where. I noticed that one half has a return edge that goes all the way to the end of the overlap. I paired those two together and used that for my right shin. The other side has the massive gap in return edge, but doesn't matter because it's hidden behind the sniper knee plate. It works, but again it was the incorrect way to assemble RT-Mod shins. Since a picture is worth a thousand words, I will post one when I get home. So... I read your post regarding the distinct left and right pair... It did not sink in, I couldn't see it... UNTIL tonight... When I was fitting\sizing my thighs. I put on my FINISHED shins and noticed they looked really wierd... They kept twisting the wrong way... I built them on the wrong side... I can't just swap because I velcroed and had the opening to the inside, well now when you swap legs, the velcro is visable... Thankfully I used E6000... All of the velcro and cover strips are ripped off again (well the back anyway)... REDO... $H!T!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swmand4 Posted October 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2013 (edited) So... I read your post regarding the distinct left and right pair... It did not sink in, I couldn't see it... UNTIL tonight... When I was fitting\sizing my thighs. I put on my FINISHED shins and noticed they looked really wierd... They kept twisting the wrong way... I built them on the wrong side... I can't just swap because I velcroed and had the opening to the inside, well now when you swap legs, the velcro is visable... Thankfully I used E6000... All of the velcro and cover strips are ripped off again (well the back anyway)... REDO... $H!T!!! Sorry to hear you need to redo your shins. Sounds like you maybe assembled the halves correctly, but placed your velcro on the back with the flap facing the wrong direction. As promised, here are some photos illustrating the return edges at the tops of my shins. AGAIN, they are incorrectly (almost imperceptibly so) assembled. Edited October 22, 2013 by swmand4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swmand4 Posted October 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 I made an attempt to glue the rubber hand guards to my neoprene chemical gloves last night. It did not go as well as I'd hoped it would. I enlisted my roommate to help apply the glue as I was one-handed at the time. Seems he missed the "apply sparingly" part and put way too much on. As a result, my right hand had super glue streaks running down outside the hand guard. As a note, the left one went perfectly. Today I tried to clean it up with acetone. I got rid of the super glue, but it seems the acetone dried and left a white streak where the glue was. This is a picture as it stand now. I have no idea how to get rid of the white looking residue stuff... any ideas? Water doesn't seem to do anything. Maybe some hot soapy water will do the trick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 If the soapy water does not work you could try rubbing in some shoe polish, may be worth a go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swmand4 Posted January 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 I just used black Sharpie to cover the white. It worked for Halloween, but I think in the long run I'll buy new hand guards and gloves and do it all again, but more careful this time. I still need to paint the vocoder and do a bit of fitting, but it looks pretty good right now. Once I paint the vocoder, replace the gloves, and do a bit more fitting I'll take all the pictures I need for 501st and EIB application. I also need to track down someone with something better than a camera phone. Sucks that the only thing keeping from Centurion is the non-hand painted appearing helmet... For now, let me present some choice pictures from various Halloween parties. I really want to stress that I never unholstered the blaster outdoors and only pointed it at anyone if they asked me to for a photo op and everyone knew what was going on. I know it's a serious matter with something that appears to be a real firearm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swmand4 Posted June 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 Been a long time since I posted in this thread... Finally got around to painting to vocoder and ear rank stripes on the helmet. I messed up the vocoder my first past as I'm not very good at painting, but was able to touch up my mistakes using a Q-tip dipped in paint thinner. Then I just repainted the parts that needed it, except more carefully. I'm not 100% happy with it, but it's better than I expected and it'll do. I'm also not perfectly happy with the ear rank stripes, but there's no fixing that without messing up the grey paint. I AM, however, happy with the camera in my new cell phone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark PWF[Staff] Posted June 13, 2014 Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 Looking great, Sean!! I'm so thankful for other build threads. As I've just begun following your footsteps on the RT adventure myself, it is interesting to be able to see how the armor has evolved even, in subtle small ways, when Rob ships it out. Hoping that I'll be joining you sooner, rather than later. Did you ever get your TKID? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swmand4 Posted June 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2014 Sadly, I've been too busy with work, life, and projects to get around to getting my TK#. I hope to have some time in the next couple of weeks, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark PWF[Staff] Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 Life can get it sometimes my RT brother! You're ready. Just got to get those pics. LoL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrooperJesse[TK] Posted June 26, 2014 Report Share Posted June 26, 2014 Hey so I got accepted and all but one of the things they suggested to fix is my shoulders.. They are a bit far from my shoulder strap, not sure if you had or have this issue also and how did you fix that. Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted June 26, 2014 Report Share Posted June 26, 2014 Your armor looks outstanding!!! If you should happen to apply for any accuracy badges, make sure your drop boxes align with the vertical ends of your waist belt. The other thing us your bicep straps are really thin. They should be at lease 3/4 inch elastic. If you apply, this should be upgraded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swmand4 Posted June 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2014 Just to be clear, Steve, the photos two posts up are Jesse's armor and not mine. Jesse, I did not have any issues with my shoulders being too far from my shoulder bridges. When I made the straps/snaps connection between the shoulder bridge and the shoulder bells, I had someone help me hold the shoulder bell in place and roughly measure the length of the strap needed. It looks like you could shorten the length of your connecting strap to bring the shoulder bell up and closer to the chest plate / shoulder bridges. This might also bring your biceps up a touch (which also might look a bit better and give you more arm mobility). And, as Steve pointed out, the elastic strap around the bicep should be ~3/4" thick. Otherwise it looks pretty good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swmand4 Posted June 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2014 On the front of my own armor, more pictures keep popping up from last Halloween (even 9 months later!) I'm hoping to take my set of approval style pictures this weekend so I can get final critique from all of you fine folks before going for the real deal. Not happy my thigh ammo pack fell down a bunch - I'll have to put some E-6000 there or something to keep it in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrooperJesse[TK] Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 Your armor looks outstanding!!! If you should happen to apply for any accuracy badges, make sure your drop boxes align with the vertical ends of your waist belt. The other thing us your bicep straps are really thin. They should be at lease 3/4 inch elastic. If you apply, this should be upgraded. THANKS! yeah I just used those because thats all the material I had at the time but It will be fixed very soon, been modifying it since my first troop on saturday . But thanks again for the tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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