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Adhesive for 'S' neck trim


Gep

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I have an ATA bucket and am having fits trying to get the neck trim to stay stuck to the ABS.

I'm using the trim that was supplied with the kit.

 

I've tried the following to no avail:

E-6000

Hot melt

CA glue

Goop

Shoe Goo

 

Anyone have a suggestion?

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A couple dots of e-6000 will help pesky neck trim that won't stay or is trimmed too short to remain in place with friction.

 

I wouldn't use CA since e6k is removable... And ya never know ya know.

 

-Eric

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I cut my rubber longer than needed then the pressure of the extra rubber holds it in place. E6000 should hold it if it is too loose

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my neck is so large the neckseal rubs against the helmet... glue is needed.

the myth of keeping the neck trim unglued is tired.

 

I use locktite superglue. and it still comes off.

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I struggle with it!

 

The problem is (it seems to me) that the shape we are trying to fit it to is not perfectly round... it's lumpy where the cheek tubes and mic bulges are...

 

I had tried dabs of e6000 to no avail, AND it totally yellowed those spots. :(

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run a bead of e6000 along the inside the groove of the trim the whole length of your trim. install. and most important........use a clothespin to clamp it .....and use lots...like the whole bag....use one right next to each other.....

..wait two days and remove......et viola

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Thanks for the tips thus far. I do not see how the pressure fit (no adhesive) method would work with the ATA supplied trim. It has a fair amount of overlap to the outside bottom of the bucket.

On the curvy bits leading into the aerators, there is no way it would set flush with the ABS.

 

I have 3 new methods in process today:

Liquid Nails Perfect Glue

LocTite Vinyl/fabric adhesive

Scotch Extreme double-sided mounting tape

 

The ABS is no problem to adhere to. It's the rubber with the ATA that is impervious to adhesives. I do not like CA, as it scars the ABS and ended up not holding the rubber in place.

 

I also tried some 3M Black weatherstrip adhesive. I thought it would at least stick to the rubber. It pretty much did the same thing as E6000, except it was black.

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I have an ATA lid. I tried pressure and like Vern said, it didnt work for me. It kept pulling up when I would put my helmet on. I found some tips on here about using superglue in little drops every inch or so. Worked like a charm for mine. I haven't had it come off yet. I would take a few pics of the S trim before you glue it though just in case you go for EIB or Centurion down the road before you glue it.

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I fail to see how they don't stay on. With the inwards curving of the edge of the helmet and the trim being cut longer, the trim should stay on. Maybe it has something to do with the shape of your helmets and the shape of your trims. You are using the thinner slot in the 'S' trim, aren't you?

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the ATA lid is not the same. with ATA the lid has a rumpled and uneven bottom edge.

there is no clean line on the bottom of the ATA lid.

it requires trimming and is bumpy and has tons of curves.

 

S trim does not follow AP or ATA trim edges with smooth and simple curves.

actually there are several curves that don't allow S trim to sit with the "pressure"

type of "screen accurate" type of install.

 

I consider an unglued neck trim to be a 'costume flub' and should not be used in a 501st

trooping suit.

 

flapping neck trim is just as bad as shin undersuit flapping at the back of the shin armor.

 

the AP lid is also not the same.

 

potatoe... potato

 

the ridge on ata does not form a true profile. it flares differently

 

troopermaster... have you ever built an ATA lid? I have made 4 of them.

 

on the other 22 AP lids I've made I use locktite superglue.

 

I'm sure that AP and ATA are far different than a TM lid.

 

can't wait to see the RS props lid... talk about wonky!

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392
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I've never had any problems with the 4 helmets I've made from my moulds and I've got the trilogy. ANH, ESB AND 2 ROTJ.

I think the problem lies with the helmets cast from none originals as in many generations removed as they have lost the undercuts that the next gen helmets have. Of course TM isn't cast from original but we all know how good they are in comparison and retain a undercut.

Mine are all quite wonky and lumpy but the trim stays on fine.

I don't think in all the helmets I have made over the years have I ever glued on the S trim.

What s trim are you using? Is it imported from the UK from seals direct? If so it should do the trick.

 

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Vern is right, the ATA is indeed quite uneven in the bottom. I see the same thing happening in the ATA bucket of a buddy of mine, and like Vern also correctly mentioned, the AP is also a bit of a different story. My armor is an AP and that too needed glue on the trim in order to stay nicely in position.

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I also never had any problems with the trims from Paul for my RS helmets and TM helmets.

Fit's perfect without glue.

 

BUT:As you can see on this picfrom the "ESB Patch" helmet as it seems they also used glue to fix the trims.

---------

 

 

@ Paul,

It's cool how you fixed the hero lenses in, what's that stuff you use there ,never have seen this before?

Edited by gmrhodes13
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As many mentioned, both my ATA's (black and white) are bumpy & curvy on the trim attach area.

Not gluing this is not an option. It simply does not stay put.

 

Of the stuff I tried yesterday, it seems that the double sided 3M Extreme mounting tape was the best.

 

I posed this question to ATAWorks and received some interesting feedback. The rubber seal they provide with the bucket kit is silicone rubber.

 

That would explain why so many adhesives do not stick to it. They recommend 100% silicone caulk or White Glue (not school glue)

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I've never had any problems with the 4 helmets I've made from my moulds and I've got the trilogy. ANH, ESB AND 2 ROTJ.

I think the problem lies with the helmets cast from none originals as in many generations removed as they have lost the undercuts that the next gen helmets have. Of course TM isn't cast from original but we all know how good they are in comparison and retain a undercut.

Mine are all quite wonky and lumpy but the trim stays on fine.

I don't think in all the helmets I have made over the years have I ever glued on the S trim.

What s trim are you using? Is it imported from the UK from seals direct? If so it should do the trick.

 

this is exactly correct it's all about the undercut.

 

AP has the undercut and the vocoder area is quite pronounced!

 

ATA has a flared and bumpy un even undercut

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Mine is ATA and not a problem, just left about an inch extra and the pressure holds it firm, it could also be the way people have trimmed their openings perhaps.

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  • 1 month later...

I'm having the same problem with my s-trim....it won't pressure fit. Neither E6000 or hot glue worked due to the rubber trim.

 

My question though is how high should the s-trim be on the sides by the ear pieces? Should the trim come up and cover the very bottom of the ear piece? Or, should it be below the trim and not come in contact with the ear piece?

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