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RS PVC Kit / ANH TK Stunt Build / Bulldog44


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Finally started to work on my kit again this month after a long break from my last post. I have discovered I made a mistake already and would like some advice about what to do. I trimmed the ab plate a while back and now having another look at it, I see I trimmed off way too much at the top for the return edge where the brackets should be placed. I might have done this partially because most of the parts were already rough trimmed and there was little return edge left or I must have referred to the bracket placements on the RS suit and cut according to their set up. I did some of these trimmings late at night and should have waited for my brain to actually register what I was doing.

Is it wrong to mount the brackets that go the ab plate to the face of the plate or are they supposed to be mounted on the top return edge? I have seen a few other builds with the brackets mounted on the top return edge. But then RS props seem to mount them on the front of the ab plate. I thought I saw a TK in ANH with the brackets mounted on top in the Vader choking the rebel guy scene. (The TK standing front/left : you can only see a glimpse of screw head on the top ridge right underneath the chest plate.)

 

My return edge at the moment on the top edge measures at 5 mm. Too tight to place the brackets ? or better off mounting these on the front? I will up load some pics if that helps.

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I garrison mate of mine has an RS suit that he had them build for him. The wire brackets were attached to the very top face of the ab not the return. In fact his ab plate also had a very short return. Couldn't have been more than 5mm. And this was a suit RS built themselves. So I think you are ok with how much you trimmed.

 

 

I'll see if I can get him to send me a pic of it and I'll post it.

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I garrison mate of mine has an RS suit that he had them build for him. The wire brackets were attached to the very top face of the ab not the return. In fact his ab plate also had a very short return. Couldn't have been more than 5mm. And this was a suit RS built themselves. So I think you are ok with how much you trimmed. I'll see if I can get him to send me a pic of it and I'll post it.

 

Thanks for the quick reply Echo. Pictures of that would be great. Quick question about all the rivets, wire brackets etc, when you built your kit did you have measurements as to exactly where they need to be placed or did you just eye most of it from photos?

 

This was one of those things I was telling myself to be careful about. After seeing how other builds use the wire brackects on the top, I prefer that better but now I guess I am left with the front placement unless I squeeze them in. It will probably result in them tearing out though at some point unless I add some support or extensions to mount on the ridge. 

 

 

 

On a note regarding return edges, I have been pouring over ANH fram by frame feverishly these days and can't help but notice how little the return edges are on all the parts. I feel like I am being too conservative for the most part but wondering if I should go with what I see on the screen and start trimming down more. 

Edited by Bulldog44
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I used this build when measuring brackets. It's for a TM suit, but still applicable.

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21390-geaux-saints-anh-stunt-build-tm/page-10#entry279006

 

As for the returns, I was very shy about trimming too much too. In hind sight I should have trimmed a little more. But it seems like there is some subjectivity with this as long as your returns aren't huge. Somewhere between 5-13ish mm seems common from my research.

 

When doing mine, I used the head of the screw as a reference. I set the hole with about one head's width to either side. So that left me with a return that was 3x the width of the head. I should have gone slightly thinner. But of course we're talking about differences of millimeters. So overall it's not that noticeable.

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I used this build when measuring brackets. It's for a TM suit, but still applicable.

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21390-geaux-saints-anh-stunt-build-tm/page-10#entry279006

 

As for the returns, I was very shy about trimming too much too. In hind sight I should have trimmed a little more. But it seems like there is some subjectivity with this as long as your returns aren't huge. Somewhere between 5-13ish mm seems common from my research.

 

When doing mine, I used the head of the screw as a reference. I set the hole with about one head's width to either side. So that left me with a return that was 3x the width of the head. I should have gone slightly thinner. But of course we're talking about differences of millimeters. So overall it's not that noticeable.

Thanks again. Those measurements are helpful.

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Ok, here are some pics of my garrison mate's ab plate. His kit was built by RS Propmasters themselves.

 

As you can see, they cut the entire return of the top of the ab plate and fastened the brackets to the face. I don't think you need to match this, but it shows you another way it is done.

 

Comfort and how it fits you are what count in the end.

 

null_zps5daa3e6a.jpgnull_zpscb7e605f.jpg

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Ok, here are some pics of my garrison mate's ab plate. His kit was built by RS Propmasters themselves.

 

As you can see, they cut the entire return of the top of the ab plate and fastened the brackets to the face. I don't think you need to match this, but it shows you another way it is done.

 

Comfort and how it fits you are what count in the end.

 

null_zps5daa3e6a.jpgnull_zpscb7e605f.jpg

Thanks for following up on this with the images. I am feeling a bit better about having to place them on the face of the ab plate. Mailed Rob at RS also to ask about what I can do. He said as well that their original suit had it this way and so all their builds are done the same.

More work on the suit this weekend... I hope!

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  • 2 weeks later...

RS glues their elastic loops together because their original suit has them done that way. Most people sew them. I personally like them sewn too because they feel stronger.

 

I used a sewing machine which was tricky but it worked.

Edited by Echo
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I was just about to ask the same thing and thanks Echo for the answer. I think I will sew my straps together as well for durability. I was wondering if it is acceptable to use some adjustable clamps or fasteners for the elastics? Maybe they wouldn't hold as well but  leave room for re-fitting parts better. 

 

Since I have been off the radar again with my build here is a quick update minus the pics, sorry. Will add those tonight. 

- Finally measured and trimmed the drop boxes to size, still need to clean up the edges.

- Chest plate, back plate, ab & hip plate, all trimmed and cleaned up on the edges. Ready for strapping placement,etc.

- Working on 

 

Working late into the night when I can plus living in a building complex with little to no room for building things has really put my build at a snails pace. I came up with an idea to use my outdoor mini greenhouse as a small working space indoors for sanding and messy work to keep dust & dirt at bay. Really hope to document and keep things moving in the coming weeks/months. 

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Here are the drop boxes. The edges will be evened out and cleaned up. I ended up trimming the boxes to about 12mm for the outer boxes and 11.5mm for the inner boxes. They may lose 1mm after the edges are all finished.

f035a7d0-78ae-492a-a631-76b685828782_zps
Mentioned in my last post, here is the mini greenhouse which will act as my portable workspace. My living space in Japan is rather small and all the sanding with my dremel has resulted in a fine mess on the furniture. So I am hoping to minimize the dust and also fumes of the glue as the build progresses. I really envy everyone out there with a proper workspace. As you can see in the photo, I have to put all my stuff back in it to save space when not working on the build. Painting the blaster kit will be another hurdle but I want to finish the armor first. 

image_zps5b28695c.jpg

Edited by Bulldog44
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  • 2 months later...

Project on a long break :( . Now back in the US & sourcing some parts & bits that I will need to start up again when I get back to Japan.

 

Some RS kits I have seen came with the snaps already installed on the ab piece but mine did not. These snaps were not included and was wondering if anyone knows the exact size snaps to install for this piece, I know the 2 lower snaps are for the belt and will have to match the ones already sewn into my belt. Basically I have half the snap ends on the belt but the other male sides missing.

 

Also , are the split rivets used for the crotch area the same as the split rivets used on the ab piece?

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Not sure of what size they used on the ab plate for the belt, but i can measure mine for you when i get home.. and yes, the split rivet for the crotch is the same as the side ab.

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  • 1 month later...

Back at it again but need some advice. Ready to start the right arm. The forearm and bicep are both offset and I am not sure how to tackle these parts. Please have a look and let me know if I did not match theses correctly

On the image sheet I marked 1 and 2 for where I am planning to trim. I measured 7-8mm from the molded edge on each piece. If I am going about this all the wrong way, please drop me some instructions. 

The return edges on the tops of both parts still need some more trimming and sanding, the bottom return edges by the wrist have been removed.TKRightBicep_zpsec4b517c.jpg

TKRightArm_zps57d15fc7.jpg

The biceps have a weird line to follow along the bottom rim. Not sure how to get the 2 edges to line up and create a smooth bottom return edge & line. 

 

Look forward to hearing any advice before I move ahead. 

Edited by Bulldog44
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  • 1 month later...

Many of he clamshell (2 half) parts are easiest fit by getting the help of someone else. The forearms start easy because of the ridge on the top of each. Your approach to that is right on so far. But with the final fitting, have someone squeeze the parts together overlapping what will need to be trimmed. With the forearms, when it feels comfy at he elbow side, and you can get your hand through at the wrist side, have your helper mark a common line between the overlapping halves. Do the same on the biceps but since you have no finish strip ridges like you do one forearms, make sure you take equal amounts from the front and rear. You want that molded ridge in the bicep to stay centered.

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Thanks Steve for the advice. I am still in the process of fitting and trimming these parts and I will ask for someone to help me with the final fit. I did do some trimming to get the biceps to meet up more equally and might have taken more off on one half than the other but hoping I can adjust that with the other side. From the rough fitting I have done on the arms I am still unsure how snug the parts should be. I have skinny arms and this makes me feel like maybe I will be sizing these too tight. I don't think I will be hitting the gym anytime soon but should I leave plenty of room ? 

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Although you may not have any plans for hitting the gym now, you do want a little room to grow. You don't want to make it tight around your arms. When fitting, squeeze the parts together until snug, then back off a little until it's comfortable with a little room to move around.

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Although you may not have any plans for hitting the gym now, you do want a little room to grow. You don't want to make it tight around your arms. When fitting, squeeze the parts together until snug, then back off a little until it's comfortable with a little room to move around.

Thanks again. I will give a shot tonight and see how far I get. I am dreading the leg parts but my I need to move on this project as I am hitting the one year mark since receiving it. 

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Finally trimmed the bicep parts to size. Next step is to glue the cover strips on this week. 

3663daa5-1680-49fb-b0de-fb00c0e5fcec_zpsae605486-efa4-4d78-9447-358e260a31dd_zps

 

On the left bicep I think I trimmed it too much and will probably need to add the extra scrap piece in between the gap before gluing the cover strip on to give a bit more breathing room.

 

As I mentioned in my previous post, my arms are rather thin and I had to trim off quite a bit to get them to a comfortable fit. But for the left one, I got over confident I guess. Steve,sorry I didn't follow your advice well enough.

(You can see the scrap strip in place between the front and back bicep parts. Hope the cover strip hides this a bit.)

9e32b9c1-2cdb-48b8-b582-b75065a66784_zps

Edited by Bulldog44
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  • 1 month later...

I am now trying to assemble the shins and trim them to size. When positioning the shins, how should they fit?do they need to be loose enough to drop to the lowest point to around your ankles? When I try fitting them with boots on the shins sit higher. If I don't trim them enough the shins look massive around the ankles. I was hoping to keep a more slimmer fitted look like TKs in ANH have. Any advice?

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You will need some kind of fixings on the back to keep them tight and closed so use either Velcro or hooks on elastic. Keep the ankles snug. Too tight and they will ride up over your boots and too loose will make them swivel around.

 

Your boots will play a big part in how your shins will look too. If they are wide at the top then the shins will not stay down without some kind of stirrup straps inside them.

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Thanks Paul. I am going to use the hooks w/ elastic for closing up the back of the shins. My boots are a bit wide at the top and I think I will try the stirrup route you recommended. Appreciate the advice on the ankle fit. I was starting to doubt a snug fit was possible.

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