Locitus[Admin] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 I'm well aware of the fact that I approved the centurion of that armour, but I'm not very happy with that shimming and would not recommend that for others to use as inspiration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 I think a better method is to shim half the distance on either side of your armour moving the seam to the middle, like if you had an armour that fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-42779[501st] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 I'm well aware of the fact that I approved the centurion of that armour, but I'm not very happy with that shimming and would not recommend that for others to use as inspiration. lol I honestly had no clue you approved that. I wasn't trying to say, "Look at this mess that you passed!" I promise. I think a better method is to shim half the distance on either side of your armour moving the seam to the middle, like if you had an armour that fit. I see what you're saying though, making the two pieces meet in the middle with little to no gap by adding extra to each piece. Got it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 I'm just thinking out loud on that last idea, but it makes sense in my head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-42779[501st] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 I'm just thinking out loud on that last idea, but it makes sense in my head. Well so far we have seen: 1) Riveting one solid piece to the font and back piece. (not acceptable) 2) One solid piece riveted to the back piece extending to the front. (not acceptable) 3) Two shim pieces of equal size, one attached to the front and one attached to the back. The shim pieces being wide enough to meet in the middle creating one seam line. (acceptable?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daetrin[Admin] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 That is the ideal, but it then means that there are 3 seam lines. What we need is a good way to shim the ab/kidney without a seam line. This was very easy in HIPS as you painted it anyway, so you could make it nice just like a clone does. This is why I'm thinking the armor maker can just put a spacer under their buck and make the part taller, but then as I thought about it the problem is air holes. You know, FISD members are _quite_ resourceful and I bet putting our heads together we'll figure this out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-42779[501st] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 That is the ideal, but it then means that there are 3 seam lines. What we need is a good way to shim the ab/kidney without a seam line. This was very easy in HIPS as you painted it anyway, so you could make it nice just like a clone does. This is why I'm thinking the armor maker can just put a spacer under their buck and make the part taller, but then as I thought about it the problem is air holes. You know, FISD members are _quite_ resourceful and I bet putting our heads together we'll figure this out Ohhhh I see what you are saying (hell this stuff is hard to think of when I haven't even seen a kit in person!! lol) if you add the two shim pieces then there will be a middle seam, front seam and back seam..... *sigh* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 That's where the silicone caulk comes in, sloping the edges and making the shims blend in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-42779[501st] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 That's where the silicone caulk comes in, sloping the edges and making the shims blend in. So front and back shims, then those two seams you created is caulked and shaped/sanded down to make a smooth surface leaving the center seam/gap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth Aloha[Admin] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 (edited) What is your waist size Tony? On 10/24/2012 at 8:39 AM, Locitus said: I meant that no one has made a "perfect" RT-Mod build before. ------------ Edited March 5, 2022 by gmrhodes13 link not working removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-42779[501st] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 (edited) On 10/24/2012 at 9:28 AM, Darth Aloha said: What is your waist size Tony? ----------- I am a slim and trim 44" waist. lol Edited March 5, 2022 by gmrhodes13 link not working removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 So front and back shims, then those two seams you created is caulked and shaped/sanded down to make a smooth surface leaving the center seam/gap? That's my idea yes. But I haven't seen it done so I can't guarantee it actually works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-42779[501st] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 On 10/24/2012 at 9:36 AM, Locitus said: That's my idea yes. But I haven't seen it done so I can't guarantee it actually works. Ran across this when googling various ideas: ------------- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 (edited) On 10/24/2012 at 9:44 AM, columbiamo said: Ran across this when googling various ideas: ----------- I suggest using that on some scrap plastic first. I would not use that on my armour without testing. Silicone caulk can at least easily be removed without damage. Edited January 13, 2021 by gmrhodes13 link not working, removed gmrhodes13 2021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-42779[501st] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 I suggest using that on some scrap plastic first. I would not use that on my armour without testing. Silicone caulk can at least easily be removed without damage. Well yeah I would want to test it first. I did see plumbers silicone caulk that comes in a white color, I figured that's what you were referring to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 Yes, the white stuff, naturally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth Aloha[Admin] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 I am a slim and trim 44" waist. lol Yeah 40" waist is about the max for RT if you want the sides to come together completely.... 42" may be pushing it. However, I don't think you'd need to shim very much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-42779[501st] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 (edited) Yeah 40" waist is about the max for RT if you want the sides to come together completely.... 42" may be pushing it. However, I don't think you'd need to shim very much. Well we shall see. I know quite a few people might cringe when I say this but I had Rob trim and make my kit to my size.....so....a matter of time until we see what needs to be done. I have emailed him to keep him in the loop in case he has been too busy. Edited October 24, 2012 by columbiamo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RT-Mod Rob[501st] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 Okay so my RT will be coming in December and I am/was REALLY determined to be the first Centurion in my Garrison but this makes me a little concerned now. Has ANYONE done a proper job of this new standard yet? I was just made aware of this latest hot potato... From my perspective I see the following: - On the surface it appears (to me) the new Centurion Standard seems to...um...'hinder' the more 'rotund' trooper from attempting such. - WRT the molds: There is a limit to how much a mold can be increased. ie. some guys might need just an 1" others 4-5", I use a 2'x2' swing frame table so there comes a point where the mold just cannot be any taller without compromising the plastic quality. - I have, in the past, included an extra Kidney part with the idea that the owner cut off as much extra plastic from each side of the spare as would be needed to close the gap between the Kidney and Ab. Doing this matches the curve and grade of the Kidney with minnimal visual impact. Kinda like a telescoping Kidney extension that can be glued in place so no rivets show. -If 'shims' are to be allowed the language should be as clear as possible. Just sayin' Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-42779[501st] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 I was just made aware of this latest hot potato... From my perspective I see the following: - On the surface it appears (to me) the new Centurion Standard seems to...um...'hinder' the more 'rotund' trooper from attempting such. - WRT the molds: There is a limit to how much a mold can be increased. ie. some guys might need just an 1" others 4-5", I use a 2'x2' swing frame table so there comes a point where the mold just cannot be any taller without compromising the plastic quality. - I have, in the past, included an extra Kidney part with the idea that the owner cut off as much extra plastic from each side of the spare as would be needed to close the gap between the Kidney and Ab. Doing this matches the curve and grade of the Kidney with minnimal visual impact. Kinda like a telescoping Kidney extension that can be glued in place so no rivets show. -If 'shims' are to be allowed the language should be as clear as possible. Just sayin' Rob Well obviously Rob and I were posting at the same time. haha I appreciate anything you can do to help. What is your opinion of the procedure Locitus and I were talking about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 - On the surface it appears (to me) the new Centurion Standard seems to...um...'hinder' the more 'rotund' trooper from attempting such. The new Centurion requirements doesn't actually change anything regarding shims for the larger troopers. As long as it's nicely done, which has always been the goal. Nice to see you join in though Rob. It's always better with direct feedback. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Necron[TK] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 The new Centurion requirements doesn't actually change anything regarding shims for the larger troopers. As long as it's nicely done, which has always been the goal. Nice to see you join in though Rob. It's always better with direct feedback. Ok so what was wrong with the way Evolver79 did it then?!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 He has rivets on both sides of the ab. He's also using pop rivets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-42779[501st] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 (edited) Ok so what was wrong with the way Evolver79 did it then?!? As Locitus said, the CRL for Centurion calls for "a single visible seam line." What Evolver79 did was make two seam lines. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2 Edited October 24, 2012 by columbiamo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 (edited) Aside from that, he has riveted his shims on both sides of the torso, not just on the left. ------------- Edited January 13, 2021 by gmrhodes13 link not working, removed gmrhodes13 2021 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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