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Geaux Saints' ANH stunt build (TM)


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That Helmet build looks great. The Ears are looking very good. Great Work!

The Sniper Plates also looks good. Just as said, trim a little bit more of the return edge.

 

Thank you. The helmet painting has been the most rewarding and most enjoyable part of my build so far.

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This has been agreat build thread to follow. I wish i would have seen it sooner. Looks great so far and you attention to detail is awesome! Also, WHO DAT!

 

I'm a newbie, but have been studying a lot of threads before I got my armor. I'm definitely learning as I go, but as a newb, I realize the importance of pictures to go along with the info. I'm trying hard to provide what I can. I hope it helps in some way. WHO DAT!

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Tonight after Trick or Treating with the kiddos (I was so disappointed in not having my armor done in time for tonight), I started working on the back of the shins. I'm using the "bra hook" method for my shin closure.

 

First I measured and marked the half way point on my joining strip, since you only glue half of it to the shin.

 

 

img7720h.jpg

 

I then scored and applied glue to the side of the strip to be affixed to the shin. From my observations of Paul's pics of this process, it looks like the glued side will be the outer half of the shin you are working on. For example, for the right shin (pictured)....if you were looking at the back of the shin, the strip would be glued on the edge of the right (outer) shin piece. The free floating part of the joining strip will be over (but not glued to) the left (inner) shin piece. For the left shin, you would glue half of the joining strip to the left (outer) shin piece (looking from behind), and the free floating part of the joining strip would be over the right (inner) shin piece.

 

 

img7721o.jpg

 

I made sure my midway marks were lined up on the edge at both ends, then I clamped and "magneted" the mess out of it.

 

 

img7722l.jpgimg7723tk.jpgimg7724qbg.jpg

 

After this dries, I will attach the hook straps and drill the holes for the hooks.

 

On a side note, I should have gotten more magnets. I bought 10 large (1") and 20 small (1/2"). My son and I broke 2 large ones right away playing with them. Like stated on the forum, these rare earth magnets will shatter if they come together too fast and hard. Believe me, they like to jump to each other....and they LOVE to pinch the crap out of your hands and fingers (I have plenty of blood blisters to prove it), so be careful.

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EDIT: FOREARM REVISION

 

I decided to see if I could redo my forearms because I forgot to close the ridge to the width of the joining strip. I pried off the joining strip, cleaned off the glue, and then resized and taped the forearm. A quick test fit, and they felt good.

 

I taped up the overlap and then marked the midpoint of each overlap.

 

img7729cc.jpg

 

I had cut a 10 mm ABS strip to mark my 20 mm cover strips on the legs (10 mm on each side), but I also tape it down and use it as my straight edge.

img7731i.jpgimg7732d.jpg

 

I lined up the marks and taped it up for one final fitting before cutting....measure X times (where X=2 or more), cut once.

 

img7733y.jpgimg7734x.jpg

 

Cuts were made, and the cover strip was glued down. I think this looks better.

 

img7736yq.jpg

Edited by Geaux Saints
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OK....I've come across a concern with the rear overlap strip for the shin hooks. The overlap sticks up some when the edges are brought together (I have not glued the elastic straps with the hooks, yet.) Opinions? Fixes? Did I do something wrong?

 

 

img7738h.jpgimg7739y.jpg

 

This is me applying some pressure behind the strip. That seems to flatten the strip where it should be.

 

img7740g.jpg

Edited by Geaux Saints
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I have the same problem with my shins. So I"m looking forward to seeing if this is 'working as intended' or what we should do to negate these effects.

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The gap is just how they are. The gap gets slightly bigger once you add the original strapping since you have a double thickness elastic strap and hook in there. That is just how the movie suits are.

 

Just wanted to make sure I wasn't doing something wrong. I noticed the bigger gap once I started to put the hook straps in place.

Edited by Geaux Saints
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Hi Tony. Just wanted to say that this is a great "live" build thread! :popcorn:

 

My TM is still waiting in its BBB until I'm sure of where to make the first cut!

 

Cheers

Andy

 

Take some Pepto before you make that first cut.....you'll want to throw up. J/K!

 

Seriously, though, the best thing to do is open the box and start trimming the excess plastic off.

Edited by Geaux Saints
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Hi Tony. Just wanted to say that this is a great "live" build thread! :popcorn:

 

My TM is still waiting in its BBB until I'm sure of where to make the first cut!

 

Cheers

Andy

 

Don't delay, cut today!! get'er going and have some fun! THEN throw up....... :vomit-into-the-toilet:

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Just an FYI......be sure to account for the thickness of your boot tops when deciding on the thickness of the bottom of the calves. I just did a trial test with my shins and boots on and it is really snug around the top of my boots. Also, the top of my calves are digging into the back of my knees like a mofo. Where is the best/proper place to trim to provide more space? I'm also getting the butt jab from the top/back of my thighs. Where is the best place to trim for this as well?

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Started working on the joining strap between the forearms and biceps. All of this procedure was per Paul's instruction.

 

You want about 50 mm of the 50 mm wide elastic to be inside both the forearms and biceps. I marked the length with tape. Start by marking the middle of the forearm.

 

 

img7752o.jpgimg7753k.jpg

 

The elastic needs to be off center on the ridge side of the forearm.

 

 

img7754mb.jpg

 

Clamp and magnet strip in place.

 

img7755w.jpg

 

Measure about 10 mm off the outer joining strip of the bicep, and then glue 50 mm of the strip inside of it. Ideally there should be about 25 mm between the curve of the forearm and the bottom of the bicep. The smaller the gap reduces pinching and helps prevent the large gaps between the forearm and biceps when the arm is relaxed at the side.

 

 

img7756fwvn.jpgimg7757q.jpgimg7758n.jpg

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Great build thread Tony. I'm working on my RT-Mod Assembly, and while I've opted for the Snap Plate assembly, I've gone with the cover strip for Centurion. Your forearm and cover strip tutorial is excellent & I'll be referring back to this when I attach biceps to forearms.

 

Keep up the great progress.

 

Cheers

Craig

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Great build thread Tony. I'm working on my RT-Mod Assembly, and while I've opted for the Snap Plate assembly, I've gone with the cover strip for Centurion. Your forearm and cover strip tutorial is excellent & I'll be referring back to this when I attach biceps to forearms.

 

Keep up the great progress.

 

Cheers

Craig

 

Thanks, Craig. I take from the Master (Paul), and pass it on. Good luck with your build, as well!

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Just an FYI......be sure to account for the thickness of your boot tops when deciding on the thickness of the bottom of the calves. I just did a trial test with my shins and boots on and it is really snug around the top of my boots. Also, the top of my calves are digging into the back of my knees like a mofo. Where is the best/proper place to trim to provide more space? I'm also getting the butt jab from the top/back of my thighs. Where is the best place to trim for this as well?

 

I found from photos that the trim spots are basically the flat back of the shins and thighs. Do a slant or curved cut. Once I did this, it really helped my mobility, I can go up and down stairs with no problems. Just don't step really high as the edge can still dig into the back of your knee. These cuts will fix both problems. I don't think it is a screen accurate cut, but I think it's a must for trooping so you don't end up walking like frankenstein.

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