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E-11 Weathering


kupertrooper

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After the "metal" paint has dried fully (that is important) take some basic white toothpaste (the cheapest you can find will do) and smear daubs of it across the areas you want the "metal" paint to show through, ie: edges and other high wear areas. Then paint the final coats as you usually would and once those are fully dried (again, important) you just take a soft, damp, cloth and wipe away the toothpaste, revealing the paint below. keep wiping with a damp cloth until all the toothpaste is gone. I would then dry brush some black or gunmetal grey paint across the metal paint to give it the worn look, and then you can apply a sealing coat of clear lacquer, either matt or gloss, depending on your preference. I hope this helps!

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I painted mine in silver, left a day to dry then went over with a satin black spray, leave to dry for another day the I used steel wool on the edges and areas that would be worn, ie: where the hands would hold, putting into holster, as if it had been knocked or chipped being dropped or placed down. Once I was happy with the weathering I used a satin clear to lock the weathering so it will not change, If I didn't eventually the siver would wear off and you would see the white pvc. BTW it was mentioned to me not to weather the hand grip as the original ones were plastic so wouldn't weather, just paint gloss black. Have a look at my build theads for my results, links in my signature, bit hard to see clearly but will give you an idea. Good luck with yours :duim:

Edited by gmrhodes13
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keep in mind the scope is brass, the gun is steel gunmetal grey not silver.

the grips are gloss plastic. the grips "T Tracks" on the barrel shroud are black plastic.

 

the gun itself should not be gloss at all. only the grips.

 

no silver on the above mentioned parts.

 

keep it all to a minimum, as the guns in star wars are lightly weathered.

 

you can also use latex rubber as a mask for fine lines and weathered areas.

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392
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  • 4 weeks later...

I assume we're talking about resin builds.

 

If you check on top bar there's a reference gallery. Which basically shows how there's no weathering on the screen used props. Active weathering isn't needed when your gun is already metal, the reason you weather it is because you want plastic to look like metal, then you exaggerate the wear to have the fake steel show.

 

The right coat of black is more important, so you will not see any screen accurate weathering as it's more of an artistic approach where anything goes, with some sense to it. Many people will not use any protective coat, and who let it wear out passively over time and use.

 

Check out Google images, not only for E11's but other gun replicas. For example I inspired myself from the chinese assault rifle in post-apocalyptic game Fallout 3 and nobody can say anything against it :)

Edited by Nicky
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minimal weathering is the way to go...

 

no visible wear, but a show of original colors and minor wear..

 

that's probably the best simulation of screen used.

 

after all... they painted everything flat black and said

 

:"action"

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  • 3 months later...

I've seen a number of pics over time of significantly weathered E-11's. I gather from the discussion that none of them were from the movies. My question is that in certain pics, the blasters have a brownish hue as if dry wiped with a camo brown over black. Is that just a photo artifact?

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when you rubb the parkerized finish off of the steel, it can rust.

 

Hey Vern,

 

I know you dont like my T-rails :P but what do you think about my weathering on this blaster? I usually go a little more heavier on sandy blasters and lighter on TKs but on this one I was trying to find a happy medium.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130854667352?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

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no silver on the counter front only brass. too much silver on this whole gun

bolt is the wrong color

 

where is the bayonet lug flat area?

 

price is way too high!

 

real scope and counter

 

see how the T Tracks enter the shroud?

 

blasterholstermicca005_zpsb19667a5.jpg

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392
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  • 6 years later...

In addition to subtle weathering, something you might consider is applying various shades and sheens of paint. This can make the prop look more realistic when the individual components work together. Using real fasteners can also add realism to the prop. For my resin build I used a variety of techniques and paints.

IMG-2809.jpg

IMG-2812.jpg

IMG-2823.jpg

IMG-2825.jpg

IMG-2826.jpg

IMG-2647.jpg

IMG-2648.jpg

 

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