DizzyStormtrooper[501st] Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 I threw away the packaging that had the directions on it, so I might as well get some additional info. How long is the dry time again? I think it said an hour When fully cured is it hard like glue or somewhat squishy like hot glue sticks/caulk Is it better to be applied thin like super glue to both sides of the contacts or thick to one side and clamped together? After applying fresh does it have to dry slightly like spray adhesive to become tacky before contact or the faster the better What other misc things have you used it for besides armor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 The dry time is more like 12-24 hours... The way I've always used it is to apply thinly (although I don't go to great length to care) on one side and then clamp it together. No need to let it dry for a while first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobojuice Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 Yep, it's 24hrs. That's why I have never used it. CA Glue and Accelerator for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 I take the clamps/magnets off once it's cured over night, but I don't put any stress on the parts until at least 12 hours has passed. I find that waiting the whole 24 hours is a bit excessive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffin-X[TK] Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 Yeah, I'll glue the parts, use clamps and check back in 24 hrs. This always works well for me. IMO, 12 hrs is not enough time to fully cure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-42779[501st] Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 After all of the various threads I have used, is it the E6000 adhesive that when used the surface should be rough or was that another adhesive that I read? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locitus[Admin] Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 That goes for all adhesives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrooperJay Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 I have cured parts for 12 hours or less and was perfectly fine. (Helmet pieces, webbing) HOWEVER, dont rush it when it comes to high tension pieces like closing up the forearms. I wasnt patient and pulled my clamps and tape and within minutes the stress of the tention had slowly separated them. Had to get all the E6000 off and start over. After that, I waited about 12-16 hours for most but a good 24 hours for pieces that i felt really needed it. You should usually be able to tell when clamping how much stress there is at the seams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyInWhite[TK] Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 I believe the package said 6 hours but overnight (12+ hours) is best. The slowness is one of the reasons I hate it. So is the goopy mess. However, it has saved my a very impolite person many times in having to peel parts apart (I've redone my thighs 3 times) and fix things, or when things slipped under the clamps and had to be un-done and re-done. However, once cured, it's quite strong and reliable. I usually lightly sand and then wipe clean (no dust) the contact parts, apply a layer on one side and then clamp, tape, magnet, and so forth. No need for contact spray or any of that other stuff. I wipe away as much excess as I can, but after it cures it's kind of a clear, dense goop like hard rubber cement. It can be easily sliced and stretch-peeled away if it leaks out, like on cover strips, and looks messy. Unless you're planning on building your entire suit in 1-2 days, I highly recommend using the e6000. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-42779[501st] Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 So from what I am gathering the only drawback to E6000 is the dry time. A big plus is the ability to undo it in the future if needed. (Important to me if I ever use the gym membership I purchased months ago. Lol) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrooperJay Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 Much agreed with Ingrid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrooperJay Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 And Tony, yes. Although, a great virtue of TK building I've learned is patience. So it does clean up VERY easily, literally with your fingers and some elbow grease. Takes a while to dry, but the benefits, especially when used on a first build, outweigh the drawback of dry time. Very forgiving, and very strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walt[501st] Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 what i do...what ingrid said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGHtrooper21 Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 How I use E6000 is I make sure that I have my "Clamps, Tape, magnets, paper, etc..." all ready, I use a utility knife to lightly score the side that I put the glue on. Let it sit for 5 - ten min. depending on air temp. Put the pieces together. Use the "Clamps, Tape, Magnets,etc..." and let it set. I like to use the glue in the evening. The reason why, so it can sit overnight. By the time I get home frorm work and having dinner, "24 Hours" has passed and then I can remove the "Clamps, Tape Magnets, etc...". Also I like to let the part that I am working on air out fo a few days. A good tip for working with E6000, use it outside and use a resperator an not a dust mask! The Fumes are Tough! Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkrestonva[TK] Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 I believe the package said 6 hours but overnight (12+ hours) is best. The slowness is one of the reasons I hate it. So is the goopy mess. However, it has saved my a very impolite person many times in having to peel parts apart (I've redone my thighs 3 times) and fix things, or when things slipped under the clamps and had to be un-done and re-done. However, once cured, it's quite strong and reliable. I usually lightly sand and then wipe clean (no dust) the contact parts, apply a layer on one side and then clamp, tape, magnet, and so forth. No need for contact spray or any of that other stuff. I wipe away as much excess as I can, but after it cures it's kind of a clear, dense goop like hard rubber cement. It can be easily sliced and stretch-peeled away if it leaks out, like on cover strips, and looks messy. Unless you're planning on building your entire suit in 1-2 days, I highly recommend using the e6000. +1 Yep, use in a well-ventilated area or the fumes will definitely make you feel pretty loopy (unless you're into that kind of thing - which I'm not). I do my kit work in my garage, and I always have the garage door open when I do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrooperJay Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 I made the mistake of building my entire kit in my living room, the ENTIRE house smells of E6000. Don't know when the smell will go away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brent Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 I used it in the living room and the smell passed pretty quickly. I found that it would squeeze out from under my coverstrips a bit when clamping. After clamping I found it necissary to wipe up the stuff that squeezed out with a paper towel while it was still wet. Once dried the excess is a bit rubbery like hotglue. The long dry time gives you plenty of time to clean everything up before it sets. I am very glad I used E-6000 though. For the most part everything went together well, but after a few troops I'm already ripping some of it up to make adjustments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Necron[TK] Posted September 21, 2012 Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 It's the best stuff on earth as long as you have time and patience to use it. I highly recommend it!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted September 21, 2012 Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 e6000 allows for adjustments, cleanup and complete dis-assembly. CA glue welds the joins. and if you make a mess, or your parts don't align flush, you can't take it apart. who cares about dry time? the advantages outweigh the limitations. e6000 all the way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valgars[TK] Posted September 21, 2012 Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 Everybody gets +2 dex and dodge for E6000 on armor mistakes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walt[501st] Posted September 21, 2012 Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 I love that smell.....it brings me back to the 80s........ahhh.the good times 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyInWhite[TK] Posted September 21, 2012 Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 what i do...what ingrid said Smart man, Walt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizzyStormtrooper[501st] Posted October 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 what grit sandpaper do you all use to roughen the surface? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunkyTrigger[TK] Posted October 6, 2012 Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 I use 40 grit, but anything around 100 grid would also do.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hermanator Posted September 24, 2013 Report Share Posted September 24, 2013 Great thread guys. I was originally planning on using Plastic Epoxy because it bonds plastics and has a higher strength rating (though you cannot disassemble). E6000 is more flexible and easier to apply, but I wasn't sure of its durability. Has anyone had many problems with parts popping apart with the E6000? I like the idea of being able to disassemble it for adjusting the size. Does 180 to 200 grit sandpaper not work well with it also? The epoxies I've used recommended this, and I had very good luck with that. Haven't had a whole lot of experience with E6000. How do you disassemble parts that are joined with it anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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