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Closing off the drop boxes


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Im almost ready to apply for centurion, but there's a couple of things I'm not sure about.

Is it acceptable for centurion to just close the boxes off with a small piece of ABS cut to fit the back or do they have to be vacformed inner drop boxes like the ones in the for sale section ?

 

While I'm at it is it ok to use my EIB pics and just snap some extras to show the flexible hand guards etc or would it be best to just take a whole new set ?

 

Thanks in advance :)

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I just did the drop boxes and I think that the inner drop boxes for sale here are great. I mean anything would work really but I like the way the inner drop boxes look (all nice and curvy).

 

bg9CEZJ.jpg

Edited by gmrhodes13
photo updated gmrhodes13 2021
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Im almost ready to apply for centurion, but there's a couple of things I'm not sure about.

Is it acceptable for centurion to just close the boxes off with a small piece of ABS cut to fit the back or do they have to be vacformed inner drop boxes like the ones in the for sale section ?

 

While I'm at it is it ok to use my EIB pics and just snap some extras to show the flexible hand guards etc or would it be best to just take a whole new set ?

 

Thanks in advance :)

 

I'm pretty sure you can just close them off using a plate like you described. My kit came with the innards, so (fortunately for me) I didn't have that issue. I have read others use magnets/velcro to make the back cover removable so they can store keys/trading cards/cash/etc.

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I would recommend getting inner drop boxes for that extra touch. Many examples I've seen of people just using a sheet of plastic make it look a bit sloppy.

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I would recommend getting inner drop boxes for that extra touch. Many examples I've seen of people just using a sheet of plastic make it look a bit sloppy.

 

I second that. Go for the extra touch und glue the elsatic on the inner box and then put a pop rivet in it ;)

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You can use this method, I assure you it really works:

Just turn your drop box and fill it with liquid latex. Let harden the latex and once it's hard just pull it off and you have a perfect curved inner box ready to be painted.

 

Interesting ;)

 

But the paint won't stay on because of all the bumping IMHO

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Well, by the time inner drop boxes becomes a requirement for you (IE you're applying for centurion) then I hope you have read enough on the forum to know it's supposed to be a vac formed inner shell. :)

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Im kicking myself now for not making a bunch when I had access to the model making workshop in college.

There are ways of replicating the vacformed look with minimal tools without having access to a vac machine but it takes some time to do.

Edited by RedSpecial
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Hi think Daniel wants to say that it should be specified how/with what they should be closed. Right? RIGHT?

I was writing with my cellphone while I was working. Now I can be more specific.

I use this method and it works perfectly, even in making latex hand-plates.

 

I use the inner part of the drop box/hand plate as a negative mould. First, I put a little bit of talc inside my "mould" and after I coat a first layer of liquid latex by using a paintbrush (It's important to make an operation on the paintbrush first, because if you use it as it is, the latex will dry istantly and you can't lay it down. The thing you have to do is to soap the brush without wetting it with water first. It must to be dry. With this operation the latex stays liquid while you coat it).

 

Once the first layer is dry (you can get it faster by using a heater) you pass other 10 layers (you must wait every layer has dried before passing another one). At this point you put a layer of kitchen food paper (like Scottex) and cover it with a layer of liquid latex with the same method I described above. You must pass layers of paper and latex until your mould is full and then you close it with a three or four layers of liquid latex (without paper). This will speed up your job and harden the piece without making it too heavy.

Once it's all dry, take off the whole piece and you have a smaller copy of your drop-box. Now just turn it and put it back in its place inside the inner part of the drop boxe and you have close it perfectly with your smooth visible angles.

At this point the latex has a dark-beige color. To avoid future unpaintings due to the rubber material you can use oil colors, those ones used to color latex prosthetics, mixed with 90% alchool, and fixing them with a neutral powder.

 

I will post picture of the whole operation as soon I will come back home.

Cost of the operation: 15$ for less then three hours job.

 

I apologize for some mistakes, I'm not english motherlanguage. I hope my description is clear anyway.

Edited by lightside
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