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dm101 Doopys E11 Blaster Build

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ok brilliant, thats what i was going to do :)

 

another question then... the inner diameter of the doopys E11 is ALOT narrower than on the original sterlings. So is it acceptable that i will have a bolt through sitting quite deep inside the ejector hole?

 

as you look at it, say on the original doopys resin cast the bolt looks to be set in behind say 1.5mm of metal pipe, whereas the doopys resin is like 3mm, plus the inner tube they used to cast is another 1.5 or so, its going to be much deeper than the originals!

 

Not sure what to do with it now hmmmmmmm

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that was my question, not actually a real bolt... but i have a working charging handle, and spring, and 20mm upvc pipe which does the job all the way through which i was going to make a bolt out of, and it would work like a bolt. Only problem is it will look too small in the chamber :(

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some have solved the look by putting a strip of wood as the rear bolt. this raises the profile to the correct distance.

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but that wont help in this instance. The internal available diamater is say... 21mm... whereas the actual pipe diamater is more like 31mm...

 

I have a 20mm upvc pipe in the barrel at the moment which fills the cylindrical space, i cant have anything any wider as it wont move. So as you look at it from the release hole it will be sunk in by like 8-10mm probably :(

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I dont know if this helps :

 

Thanks to the poster above ^^

DSCN1041.jpg

 

You can see 3 layers to that pipe, 2 resin and one (faint) black pipe. If you imagine that the first layer on the original sterlings is only like 2mm metal pipe or something, i have a lot narrower internal diameter to work with :(

Edited by ZeroCooL

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there is a thread where the person uses a block of slim wood inside the channel that matches the OD

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there is a thread where the person uses a block of slim wood inside the channel that matches the OD

 

That's what I was thinking of doing. Makes the bolt look like it has the correct diameter and puts the charging handle at the right depth.

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the separate wood block (cylinder shaped actually) is what I did. See my build thread for reference. I think it looks pretty good considering.

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OK here is a “DRAFT†of my plan.

FYI- The wooden insert in my photo needs to be longer.

I am using:

1- Wood Dowel (sand down to slide easily inside Gun)

1- #6 wood screw with the head cut off

1- Piece of .25†thick clear plastic ( to build up the thickness of the bolt)

1- Doopy Doo charging handle with 2 sides sanded down.

This is just a “draftâ€

DRAFT-BOLT-1.jpg

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SORRY I fell off the face of the planet. :mellow:

Yes I PROMISE I will have an update the first week of the new year.

I was holding off to see if we were going to be around after December 21st. :D Stupid Mayan's, no wonder they are extinct.

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Awesome stuff. Thanks for posting as it will certainly help fellow troopers with their builds.

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I am going to order a doopy resin kit very soon. Thanks for making this.

 

It's a fun kit to build. Once you figure out where all the parts go.

YES i am working on a set of directions you can down load as a PDF. Stay tuned

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OK the object of this post is to clear up my earlier error.

The goal is to have the Doopy’s bolt (or lack of) look more like a Sterling’s sub-machine gun bolt.

Here is a image of my de-milled Sterling.

J9_zpse6c6ccfe.jpg

 

 

MODIFICATIONS NOT INCLUDED IN RESIN KIT-

 

BOLT -----UPDATED---- January 04, 2013

My bolt is made from:

1- A wood dowel (could also use a plastic tube or pipe- if you can find the right diameter)

2- A sheet of .25†thick clear plastic (you can also use colored plastic or wood)

3- A #6 wood screw

 

 

Step #1- Take item #17 CHARGING HANDLE and drill a clearance hole for the wood screw to slip into. Sand CHARGING HANDLE flat on two sides. Finished thickness of flats to equal less than width of Doopy’s charging handle slide slot.

J2_zps954042f3.jpg

 

Step #2- WOODEN BOLT- Measure the inside diameter of your gun at the butt end (with End Cap removed) I subtracted about 1/16†from that diameter to give some clearance. I used a belt sander to sand down the outside diameter of my wooden dowel. After a few test fits I made sure it would fit easily inside the gun. I measured up from one end 1.72†and drilled a hole for a #6 screw. The 1.72†is was measured off the de-milled Sterling bolt I have. The overall length of the wood bolt can be more or less than the 2.69†that I show.

BOLT THICKNESS EXTENDER- I used a piece of clear .25†thick plastic. You could use wood etc… I made my part 2.00†long. I made the width a bit smaller than the bolt slide slot. I wanted the bolt thickness extender to fit in snug but not be to tight as to not move freely. Measure up 1.72†and drill clearance hole for #6 screw. Take modified charging handle, screw and bolt thickness extender. Test fit together. Mark bolt thickness extender at edge of charging handle. Sand or cut down thickness so that charging handle is flush with top surface of bolt thickness extender.

#6 WOOD SCREW- Cut off screw head. I used a Dremil cut off bit. I ground in a slot for a straight screw driver. I use this slot to insert the screw.

J3_zps83c34883.jpg

 

 

Step #3- Slide wooden bolt into gun.

J4_zpsf2373999.jpg

 

 

Step #4- Add bolt thickness extender, and apply glue between wooden bolt and bolt thickness extender. Insert #6 screw.

J5_zps76821fc2.jpg

 

 

Step #5- Take item #17 CHARGING HANDLE, apply glue, slip over #6 screw. MAKE SURE your charging handle orientation is correct.

J6_zps4b96e3a9.jpg

 

 

 

Step #6- Insert Spring, push bolt forward

 

J7_zps4e0bedf0.jpg

 

 

Step #7- Painting. I choose to paint the bolt the anodized green color from my original Sterling.

 

 

J8_zpsade39e64.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

IMAGE SHOWING de-milled Sterling

 

J9_zpse6c6ccfe.jpg

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Very nice work and photo's, this should help people in the future, I can see another how to coming up soon :D Keep up the good work you are going great :duim:

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anodized green bolt?

the color green.

 

there are many people who don't have green bolts.

 

otherwise you've done pretty well close to how I trim out my charging handles.

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392

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anodized green bolt?

the color green.

 

there are many people who don't have green bolts.

 

otherwise you've done pretty well close to how I trim out my charging handles.

 

YEP it is green.

My photo shows the color pretty accurately.

Don't forget- This is one bolt out of a thousands.

I have also seen the color to be dark gray to a black color, and a brown color.

Any of these color combos woul be good.

I have not seen any bright chrome colored bolts. (chrome as in the color of a cars bumper circa 1970's model car)

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MODIFICATIONS NOT INCLUDED IN RESIN KIT-

 

MOUNTING FOLDING STOCK (optional)

I was a bit paranoid at just gluing the folding stock to the main barrel. My resin stock was a bit warped and did not sit square, without some major torque/twisting. I decided to screw the folding stock to the main barrel.

 

Step #1- Drill hole completely thru the folding stock. Hole diameter should be clearance hole for your screw threads to pass thru.

 

Step #2- Drill another hole in first hole. This hole should be a little bigger than your screw head. The depth of this hole should be a little below the surface. You will come back and fill in this hole with putty, bondo, etc…

 

Step #3- (YOU WILL DO THIS STEP TWO TIMES, or ON BOTH SIDES) Drill pilot hole in the round part of the main barrel. (This is the pivot point for the folding stock) ((if your stock was able to fold)) Drill small hole for threads to pass thru in folding stock. Drill another hole on top of the first hole in folding stock. This hole should be a little bigger than your screw head. The depth of this hole should be a little below the surface. You will come back and fill in this hole with putty, bondo, etc…

 

Step #4- Align your folding stock holes to the pilot holes in main barrel. Insert your mounting screws.

 

Step #5- I used JB Weld Steel - Stick Putty to fill in the holes. I also used this to build up the two pivot points or what I am calling buttons.

 

Step #6- Sand, Paint and FINISH

FS1.jpg

 

 

FS2.jpg

 

 

 

FS3.jpg

 

 

 

FS4.jpg

 

 

 

FS5.jpg

 

 

FS6.jpg

 

 

 

 

FS7.jpg

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That's a cool idea for screwing in the stock. I was also a little leery about whether mine would hold.

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I do the same thing but use rivet pins. also I don't go though the front of the buttplate. only needs it from the top!

by using rivet pins only drilled from one side the parts are stronger since they don't have holes all the way through...

 

and I'm thinking that your green bolt is a sign of oxidation.

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This is my "suggested" mounting location for the Doopy's M38 Scope.

 

 

scopedrawingmntgposition.jpg

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