WESTVIG Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 So I have been trooping with a motified FX set (minus the helmet,went with AP helmet) and now want to upgrade. I aquired a AP set and just got done trimming the pieces out. This is my second build but this set is nothing like the FX. I feel a bit overwhelmed. How should I trim the ABS strips that bind the thighs, forearms etc.... Any input on this build would help me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DudeSidious Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 score and snap buddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCTrooper[TK] Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Cutting the strips is really simple. Look in this thread. If you are not sure about something, there is alot of info on this site, just search and if you can't find it just ask. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16246&st=0&p=198344&hl=finishing%20strips&fromsearch=1entry198344 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKRalf[TK] Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 (edited) well for the inner strips i just cut from the sloppy ends and enough length for added strength. But for the outer ones, measure, measure, measure, (I actually made 3 mark and with a ruler lined them up to make sure the lines came out straight), and then as mentioned above, score with an xacto knife. I usually do one light pass and then add more pressure, and then eventually you will be able to snap them easily. Once you get the hang of it it will seem more redundant than overwhelming. But in the end you'll appreciate how good it will look. PS. Check out the tutorial page for info on the specific sizes of the strips. The thigh and shin strips are different than the forearms and biceps. Edited May 31, 2012 by TKRalf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 (edited) to cut strips 1" aluminum flat bar 4 feet long. clamps 3 screw type C clamps hobby knife. 5' long x 5" wide plywood strip. finishing strip place plywood at a 45d angle on a table. finishing strip on plywood. clamp aluminum flat bar over the top of the strip with the clamp's screw points on the underside. don't use spring clamps, use screw clamps. use 3 clamps along the length of the aluminum strip. cut 3x with a heavy hand keeping the blade 90d as you cut. unclamp assembly. bend strip and press firmly as you go. the strip will snap. Edited June 1, 2012 by TK Bondservnt 2392 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyInWhite[TK] Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 Ooooh, I really like Vern's set-up.... but if you don't have a workbench area like that, a metal ruler, some spring clamps, and a cutting board will do. There are 2-3 pages just on how I did make-shift score-n-snap in my tutorial below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daennika Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 My AP kit came with several extra ABS pieces for the cover strips... as thick as they are, they were pretty easy to snap, even with just one scoring line (with the xacto, or just any box cutter). I made my strips 22 millimeters wide, and I helped myself with large pliers to snap them off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boomshakra[TK] Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 to cut strips 1" aluminum flat bar 4 feet long. clamps 3 screw type C clamps hobby knife. 5' long x 5" wide plywood strip. finishing strip place plywood at a 45d angle on a table. finishing strip on plywood. clamp aluminum flat bar over the top of the strip with the clamp's screw points on the underside. don't use spring clamps, use screw clamps. use 3 clamps along the length of the aluminum strip. cut 3x with a heavy hand keeping the blade 90d as you cut. unclamp assembly. bend strip and press firmly as you go. the strip will snap. Awesome - I cannot cut a straight line to save my life, so this will be a tremendous help for me! Thanks, Vern! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 (edited) I don't have a shop area, it's just the kitchen table and some scrap plywood from a construction site. sometimes if you use pliars you can get a ragged edge. it's best just to bend with a strong hand if you do use pliars just use them at the end of one side to start the bend. to keep from getting ragged edges from the pliars stressing the plastic at each grip point. Edited June 2, 2012 by TK Bondservnt 2392 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyInWhite[TK] Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 I don't have a shop area, it's just the kitchen table and some scrap plywood from a construction site. sometimes if you use pliars you can get a ragged edge. it's best just to bend with a strong hand if you do use pliars just use them at the end of one side to start the bend. to keep from getting ragged edges from the pliars stressing the plastic at each grip point. Ha I discovered this the hard way. Fortunately, I lacked hand strength to cut so much and rediscovered the exacto blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 that's why I say score 3x. it just takes a sharp blade and a few solid passes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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