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arduino: a cheap board for E11 blaster effects


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When I use the amplifier module the speaker picks up a little bit of distortion as well as a pulsating kind of noise. However, when I pluck the speacker directly into the WT5001 it's absolutely silent except when a sound is played.

 

I was wondering whether anybody experienced something similar or if I have a caught a bad amplifier module?

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When I use the amplifier module the speaker picks up a little bit of distortion as well as a pulsating kind of noise. However, when I pluck the speacker directly into the WT5001 it's absolutely silent except when a sound is played.

 

I was wondering whether anybody experienced something similar or if I have a caught a bad amplifier module?

i think it's normal, we should use ferrite and/or capacitors to have more clean sound.

 

as for led bar how to detect anode and cathode

just look at kingbright dc-7g3hwa datasheet pdf there is a very clear scheme where you can notice that the cutted corner is Anode side

 

dc_7g3hwa.jpg

Edited by skyone
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i think it's normal, we should use ferrite and/or capacitors to have more clean sound.

 

as for led bar how to detect anode and cathode

just look at kingbright dc-7g3hwa datasheet pdf there is a very clear scheme where you can notice that the cutted corner is Anode side

 

dc_7g3hwa.jpg

 

 

Have you double checked all the grounds?

 

Thanks, guys. I've only looked at the ammo counter from the side and did not realize you have to look at the face of it - now it's clear ;-)

 

@ Steve: Yes, that was it! I've hooked both GND into the WT5001. Now, after putting the upper one in the general GND (from the Arduino) it's fine. Also I've changed the speaker to a slightly larger one with 7,5cm diameter and now it's incredibly loud :)

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I had a quick go and got nothing out of it.  I'm not an expert....would VCC on the diagram be +5v from the arduino? And should I be plugging the Tx arduino output to the Rx input on the diagram (4th pin down on right)? The docs suggest using an arduino library but I'm guessing that the wt5001 code already references serial writes?

 

jq6500-28.jpeg

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I had a quick go and got nothing out of it.  I'm not an expert....would VCC on the diagram be +5v from the arduino? And should I be plugging the Tx arduino output to the Rx input on the diagram (4th pin down on right)?

yep

 

it supports serial commands as wt5001

 

http://www.elecfreaks.com/store/download/product/Module/jq6500_mini_mp3_module/Datasheet.zip

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I've finished the electronics for my MG-15/RT97 build now. I've changed a little bit from the original design in order to fit the weapon:
 
- Random Sandtrooper voices at start up
- Green light to indicate weapon is online
- added MG-42 sound

- changed Wookie sounds agains Boba Fett quotes
- new LED setup accompanying the respective weapon

 

Here's a video, hope you like it :)

 

https://youtu.be/urK8bW0Iz-w

Edited by StriderX
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Yup. Even tried triggering manually (ground to k1 pin for example) and nothing. The led lit up as if it was trying to play something so it might be my amp is playing up. Will try again tonight, although I do have another wt5001 en route from another supplier.

serial commands look differents

from datasheet in china-english:

 

0x12

The former 01 refers to the folder while the latter refers to the file. Note 1: 【7E 04 12 01 01 EF】 play the file 01 in the folder 01

 

 

i would try

 

          // play file 01 in folder 01

          Serial.write(0x7E);

          Serial.write(0x04);

          Serial.write(0x12);

          Serial.write(0x01);

          Serial.write(0x01);

          Serial.write(0xEF);

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I've finished the electronics for my MG-15/RT97 build now. I've changed a little bit from the original design in order to fit the weapon:

 

- Random Sandtrooper voices at start up

- Green light to indicate weapon is online

- added MG-42 sound

- changed Wookie sounds agains Boba Fett quotes

- new LED setup accompanying the respective weapon

 

Here's a video, hope you like it :)

 

 

it's cool but still i can listen too much noisy on background. I would try different speakers, differente amp, or adding a small capacitor to the mp3 power source.

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Because it's what I had to hand...and my official blaster will be a RotJ to go with my suit.  Pipe build coming next :)

 

New sound board arrived today, but so far no luck in getting it going. Can I just check, the mp3 files should be in the root of the microSD card right? I've used the drive tool utility to sort the files.  Must the SD card have nothing else other than the files?

 

Edit:  Ignore that, the sound board and sound files are working perfectly!  For some unknown reason (I must be having all the luck!) my amp has packed in!  I tested it a couple of weeks back with a normal sound source and haven't touched it since, but it's just not working now.  Can figure out why, gets a little warm but not "hot" but I've tested the signal gets in, power in is also good, I just get nothing out the other side.  Will de-solder it and see if I can find anything amiss.

 

Edit 2:

 

Here's the system with the speaker wired straight to the MP3 board. New amplifier ordered.

 

https://youtu.be/MCRod5s98WA

Edited by Balders
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Managed to squeeze everything in and close it up. Once replacement amp board arrives, will probably trim and resolder the wires to tidy things up, and will also discreetly fit a 3.5mm jack socket so I can output to my aker if needs be.<br>

Edited by Balders
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I want to say a huge "thank you" to Skyone/Manuel for putting this project into the public domain. I finally completed my E11 blaster tonight, it's all working exactly as designed, I'm amazed how loud it is!

 

I power mine from a 2cell 450 lipo which fits nicely inside the now hollowed out battery tray on my Hasbro/Doopydoos E11. Rest of the electronics was a bit of a squeeze...had to trim a lot of the internal plastics away, but it does now all fit and closes nicely.

 

Thanks again Skyone.  I now have the nickname "Electro" in my local patrol!

 

Regards,

Steve

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  • 1 month later...

I'm slightly rewriting my code for a pro mini after development on an Arduino uno. The only thing to look at is to be sure you're using a 5v/16mhz pro mini as it also comes in 3v/8mhz format which can have slight differences in the effectiveness and project compatibility. As for pins, the number is almost the same if the Arduino uno bigger brother. It only has no power regulated 3v output so you have to arrange it externally

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

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