Solcar23[TK] Posted April 21, 2012 Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 If you know someone who plays drums a 5A stick works perfectly! Fits snug as a bug! I followed Luis' advice and used a coat hanger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted April 21, 2012 Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 that shows the spring dimensions and spacing when it's uncompressed. in the gun it's compressed. ever consider that fact my brothers! very nice work so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZeroRoom[TK] Posted April 21, 2012 Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 that shows the spring dimensions and spacing when it's uncompressed. in the gun it's compressed. ever consider that fact my brothers! Exactly Vern - but this important. You need to make sure you make your spring according to the uncompressed dimensions and spacing so that when you insert and compress it you get an accurate reproduction of the compressed spring spacing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boomshakra[TK] Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 I know this has been covered in other threads, but I can't seem to find what width aluminum bar is used - 1/16" or 1/8"? I bought 1/16" (by3/4") today and it seems flimsy - like the weight of the doopys scope/hengstler will sag. I also bought a pre-bent "L" for lack of better description, 1/16"x1". My thought was that having a wider counter holder would have it away from the scope a bit more - is that ok/canon? Haven't done anything with them - sitting on my bench waiting for my doopys delivery. Any input is welcomed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZeroRoom[TK] Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 Well that depends - why would you prefer your counter sat further away from your scope? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billw134 Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 (edited) Hey OP, I love seeing your progress with the pics. This trigger movement was a nice touch, but drawing it on in red to show others was inspired! You should be a teacher lol! Keep em coming! Bill Edited April 22, 2012 by billw134 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boomshakra[TK] Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 Well that depends - why would you prefer your counter sat further away from your scope? I didn't really have a reason...it just looked right when I was picking out the materials. Will have to see what it looks like holding the parts together when I get my kit. I didn't know if anyone else had set theirs up that way. Is 1/16" too thin for the rail? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZeroRoom[TK] Posted April 23, 2012 Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 Is 1/16" too thin for the rail? There's no agreed 'screen accurate' thickness or width for the scope rail but i would say 1/16" is spot on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boomshakra[TK] Posted April 23, 2012 Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 There's no agreed 'screen accurate' thickness or width for the scope rail but i would say 1/16" is spot on. Cool - it feels a little flimsy, but I realize I won't be using the entire 3' length (that would be for my DLT-19 ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OsotheBear Posted April 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 (edited) So I went to Canadian tire and got a round stick that fits inside the doopy's tube and and some wire , the wire is about the same size as a hanger wire, just tiny bit thinner which makes it easy to bend and it will spring better, after that I drew a mark every 13mm as Lucas example for a total of 210mm approx and it's about two turns too long so Vern and Lucas are both right , those are the dimensions and it needs to be compressed a bit, now if you attach the spring directly to the back of the end cap and without the bolt where the cocking handle goes I think then you have to give it a few more turns since it will have to compensate for those two pieces missing Edited April 23, 2012 by OsotheBear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OsotheBear Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 (edited) Edited July 16, 2012 by OsotheBear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigironvault Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 Nice screwing in the grip! Solid bro. Doesn't it feel indestructible like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mogwai[TK] Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 Nice Work so far. Looking forward to see the finished Product! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OsotheBear Posted July 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 Thanks guys, it feels pretty solid for a resin cast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivanhoe13 Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 Great looking builds guys just wondering myself which would be a better glue to do the resin kit with had another thought too how about gluing and pining some of the larger parts just a thought I found that out when I was doing the big white metal dragon or figures anyone have any thoughts on this ???yep a bit more work but hey whats a project of joy without a bit of hard graft ???another one I want to ask is the doopey doo kit is a bit on the light side is there any way we could add some meat to in ???make it feel like a blaster rather than some plastic kit any ideas would be welcome as I`ve had my kit now for over a year and wanted to build it like its real rather than a resin kit . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solcar23[TK] Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 Ivanhoe, I'd use 5 min epoxy for a solid weld on all parts, plus the whole kit assembles much faster. Also, you'd be surprised at how hefty and dense the Doopy's feels when it's done as opposed to when it's still just parts. After the glue, add-on parts, metal rail and bracket, primer/paint, It really feels like you have a blaster in your hand, not a toy. Mine feels super solid and heavy. I'm a big fan of the Doopy's! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vader74 Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Update, went to Home Depot and got the Allen screws, I started drilling the one on the grip just to practice before the ones on the barrel. socket head cap screws i think ill get a doopy doo is it worth drilling and tapping and inserting heli-coils for better strength ? http://www.adpost.com/au/business_products_services/3601/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OsotheBear Posted November 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2012 Got around to work on my E-11 a bit last night, also , do you think the ''off'' looks ok before I start carving away? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted November 2, 2012 Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 I cut the head off a small bolt, drilled a hole in the back of the switch and in to the body, threaded the bolt into the switch then glued the other end into body, the thread in the switch allows you to move the switch into either position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OsotheBear Posted November 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 ha! that's a great idea! I glued the switch already but the 2 part epoxy is forgiving ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OsotheBear Posted November 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 (edited) is the ''off''writing and the corners ok to sand down? Edited November 2, 2012 by OsotheBear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OsotheBear Posted September 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 I'm back at the blaster, how does this look? is the counter well placed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SorenM[TK] Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 Looks fine, but I would have the bracket bend down instead of up...:-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OsotheBear Posted September 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 Good idea!!! do you know if there's a canon for that? like the originals had them up or down? or it really doesn't matter either or? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 From the builds I have seen they mostly bend downwards, not sure about cannon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.